As all you experts will know there were issues with the early cam/timing chain on the engines up to number 022333 (this seems to vary depending on source so Id like to knows the engine number if anyone knows for definite). And we know that a check valve, different tensioners as well as a new design of chain was used to cure the issue.
Old and new chain differences shown below...


But does this this mean certain failure is imminent if a owned an early chain engine or is it the case of most go on to live happy and long lives with a more frequent oil changing than stated by Mercedes. In the same way that if you read all the M156 head bolt, cam and follower stuff online you might not expect your M156 to make it to the end of the street!!!.....whereas in real life its a pretty rare failure....especially the head bolts.

So what I want to know is how many of you with early E63 212s or others with the M157 are completely original in the valve gear/drive department and how many miles you have now.....and if you did experience failure at what miles and did you have frequent fresh oil in it. And the worst case scenario......did anyone ever have one snap or slip?? In other words should any potential buyer avoid early engines with the old style chain like the plague.....or is it all blown out of proportion. Obviously I'm interested in the info for my car search.....but in the future it could well be useful to others. I know there are many threads on the subject but unless I've missed it I've not seen one done as a sort of survey. Light blue touch paper....stand well back!

 

I asked the same question as I'm looking at buying a 2012 E63. I'm also really curious as to how much is the cost to have the dealer update the chain, tensioner, drain back valves? with that number I could calculate that into the purchase price.

 

i have a '12 W218 with the early chain. im currently sitting at 98K miles and havent had a problem. i'd be lying if i said that it wasnt always in the back of my mind, tho. i was thinking about just upgrading to the current chain but, after being told that its a 40 hr job, i'm thinking it'd be smarter just to upgrade the whole car. hahahaha.

chain stretch is definitely a 'thing'. BUT...it doesnt affect near as many cars as the headbolts in the M156.

 

So we're looking at about 4k just in labor plus about 1k in parts?

 

who do you know that is only charging $100/hr?

 

I don't know actually what they charge. do you?

Thanks

 

Have a 2013 stock power package wagon and it had an upgraded chain but old tensioners and zero check valves. Car, at 43k when purchased in 2019 had a cold start noise for one second depending how I parked on my slanted driveway. I used lots and lots of oil ( within range) of all types, driving is always spirited every time. I changed the parts myself. This included new tensioners on both sides and install of check valves on both sides. This was done in summer 2021 at 53k. Today the car has 60k. Since the repair. The car has not made one noise ( literally not one squeak on start) and consumes less oil. Seemingly I had some sort of blow-by, perhaps on start and at full acceleration some deposits would come through the tail pipe that was mostly solved by adding these check valves. Clearly the suction creates a well lubed chain with no drain back and constantly tighter chain.

The easiest thing, while not easy at all is to change those parts even with an old chain. It will give you a chance to look and dive deeper if needed. Parts from fcp for the tensioners and check valves plus an eBay tool were in the 500 dollar range. There is info elsewhere on the site as you well know, some of the pics being mine

I figured if this was conceived to help an oiling issue, I was in, as the engine is fortune (fully warranteed for a few more years to 125k) but who wants to even think about it. I’d like to either keep the wagon or make sure she is top notch for myself and the future owners. It’s like me changing my oil every 2500 miles or so. Because it’s easy, inexpensive to diy. And makes me think less about it when I exercise her turbos.

Now cylinders… never scoped ‘em but I will when I do plugs again just in case I need the warranty.. were the cylinder issues cause by the lack of check valves? That’s a question I have burning in my head that I’m sure an expert here could help examine.

hope this helped

 

The power potential of the M157 is amazing but head bolts and valve buckets on the M156 or even better an M113K car is sounding better every day.

 

This would depend on oil change intervals, hours on the motor and rpm use. I would say anywhere around 65-100K to start looking into her.

 

$185/hr, chicago and burbs

 

Just change both tensioners to the upgraded nb and install the check valves.

 

Based on my knowledge it would cost you around 2000 to 2500 eur with labour hours. I'd recommend you to have around 3000 eur ready for such job.