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My bad pulling it out a bit too hard since it was stuck. As you can see, the white plastic tongue (not sure what it’s called) is completely out and the stopper is also broken. Is it easy to replace it? What’s the part number? Haven’t checked where the other end is.
Also, is 2769051000 the latest part number for the cam sensor?
Some background story. I recently had misfire but after restarting, everything becomes fine. Read the stored code and it’s P0303 cylinder 3 misfire. So I’m starting from checking the cam sensors. It turned out the lower one on the passenger side has oil. I have Fidelity warranty but not sure if dealer is able to figure out and fix if the misfire can’t be reproduced on-site.
First read this to understand how to remove the connector safely and how the dual lock mechanism works and this is valid for all Hirscmamn Seal Star family which in our cars is up to 6 poles : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ustration.html
The camshaft POSITION sensor connector is Hirschmann Seal Star 1.2 family. It is the 3 pole version and keyway/coding is A . Mercedes P/N is 022 545 24 26
MB Indonesia ( where I am from ) sell this at approx US$17 ish, but waiting period 60 days. I ordered them anyway.
While waiting from MB Indonesia, I tried sourcing in USA could not find it.
I found it in Europe/UK and I am glad I did, because I need the FEMALE connector too, because I want to rig a test cable set and not for repair like in your case.
You can replace the plastic body connector assy to get back the function of the Grey Extra Lock feature and don't touch/re-do the female terminal.
The terminal crimper tool is expensive and not for un-trained hands, it is so small in size, its a nightmare to work on.
If you so desired to experiment with the female or male terminal, the family is called KOSTAL MLK1.2 and you need to choose the Sealed type
The Seal Star connector is a beauty, no need special picking/push tool to get the female terminals into connector.
I use soldering for the female and male terminals, I do not have the crimper.
Oil into harness and can wick all the way to engine computer ..........from camshaft electromagnet phasor and the camshaft position sensor is happening to some and it is NOT PRETTY and NOT CHEAP.
I have replaced all 4 camshaft electromagnet phasor to latest part number just to safe albeit mine has no oil leak at all.
Supposedly my camshaft position sensor is the latest, assumed safest and so I keep it as-is. But I keep monitoring it for possible oil leaking out of it.
Good luck with the repair..........
Last edited by S-Prihadi; 05-04-2022 at 02:29 AM.
Reason: add info
First read this to understand how to remove the connector safely and how the dual lock mechanism works and this is valid for all Hirscmamn Seal Star family which in our cars is up to 6 poles : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ustration.html
The camshaft POSITION sensor connector is Hirschmann Seal Star 1.2 family. It is the 3 pole version and keyway/coding is A . Mercedes P/N is 022 545 24 26
MB Indonesia ( where I am from ) sell this at approx US$17 ish, but waiting period 60 days. I ordered them anyway.
While waiting from MB Indonesia, I tried sourcing in USA could not find it.
I found it in Europe/UK and I am glad I did, because I need the FEMALE connector too, because I want to rig a test cable set and not for repair like in your case.
You can replace the plastic body connector assy to get back the function of the Grey Extra Lock feature and don't touch/re-do the female terminal.
The terminal crimper tool is expensive and not for un-trained hands, it is so small in size, its a nightmare to work on.
If you so desired to experiment with the female or male terminal, the family is called KOSTAL MLK1.2 and you need to choose the Sealed type
The Seal Star connector is a beauty, no need special picking/push tool to get the female terminals into connector.
I use soldering for the female and male terminals, I do not have the crimper.
Oil into harness and can wick all the way to engine computer ..........from camshaft electromagnet phasor and the camshaft position sensor is happening to some and it is NOT PRETTY and NOT CHEAP.
I have replaced all 4 camshaft electromagnet phasor to latest part number just to safe albeit mine has no oil leak at all.
Supposedly my camshaft position sensor is the latest, assumed safest and so I keep it as-is. But I keep monitoring it for possible oil leaking out of it.
Good luck with the repair..........
Thank you! Excellent info! Now I know the name of the part to search for. It seems the broken black part on the connector is just to stop the clip from falling off when disengaged. Yeah it does seem a lot of work to replace the entire connector. I will just replace the white clip then. Will try my luck with the local mom-and-pop electronics shop first. One more question if you know the answer, is it possible to just replace the entire cable? I guess that means to replace the ecu cable?
Update:
My local mom-and-pop store doesn't have it but I do see the part 022 545 24 26 (thanks S-Prihadi!) is available online in many Mercedes dealer websites. So I ordered one for ~$7. Hopefully I can re-use the white clip. I also picked up a cam sensor from my local dealer. Funny that we have three dealers here and the prices vary from $60 to $105 a piece lol.
Many connectors for Mercedes are LOCKED for MB only , that is the power of quantity buy MB has. Also this are German type automotive connector, which is not so common in US cars.
So many male connectors I have to buy from MB Indonesia. Cost wise I don't mind, but not able to get the female version of the connector on open market ( not all male connector has a Female version ) is what made me sad.
Train yourself slowly on how to remove and re-install the white/grey Extra Lock tab on the new connector, it is not so easy until you get the hang of it. Use magnifying glass to see how and where the sliding in should take place.
Me eyes not so good now
If you have the new connector , replace your broken one completely with it and don't cannibalize parts.
If say your 3 wires (sensor ) are oil soaked and only a few centimeters into the wire assy heading to the Engine computer connector, its okey. Let it be, most important is to prevent more oil capillary action from a
leaking CAM position sensor or the VVT phasor magnet.
I hope your misfire is only from an oil laden CAM sensor, which means it will go away with new sensor installed.
that explains the structure of this type of connector. Also found a manual about it. But I couldn't get the terminals out of the old connector due to the primary lock. In the manual, it seems the primary lock can be pushed down to unlock. However, I wasn't able to push it down and thus can't pull out the terminals from the old connector. Well, I think I will just leave it as is for now..
Use tooth pick or similar small pry tool to lift up the Primary Lock up and away from the notch.
For your short/shallow connector fingernail can work too, that is what I do for my cam position sensor
Use tooth pick or similar small pry tool to lift up the Primary Lock up and away from the notch.
For your short/shallow connector fingernail can work too, that is what I do for my cam position sensor
Hmm I think the primary lock ought to be pushed down other than lifted up.
Hmm I think the primary lock ought to be pushed down other than lifted up.
I forgot to say, tooth pick to the front of the connector
Pushing down primary lock black plastic at the REAR end, is to lift up the front end ( see-saw effect ).
The locking protruding notch is at the female side aka sensor, the male connector primary lock has a "hole" that locks into the protruding notch.
Average guys like you and me will call a complete connector assy gender not by its electrical contact terminals, but by the plastic casing shape which>>goes>>where logic
I forgot to say, tooth pick to the front of the connector
Pushing down primary lock black plastic at the REAR end, is to lift up the front end ( see-saw effect ).
The locking protruding notch is at the female side aka sensor, the male connector primary lock has a "hole" that locks into the protruding notch.
Average guys like you and me will call a complete connector assy gender not by its electrical contact terminals, but by the plastic casing shape which>>goes>>where logic
Oh sorry I didn't explain it well in my last post. I was referring to removing the metal terminal from the case of the connector (part number: 022 545 24 26) since I bought the part. Specifically, it's the following "primary lock" (that metal clip attached to the metal terminal) in the picture:
Basically, the "latch" you referred to in your post. There is a bump on the metal terminal that stops it from being removed. How do you unlock that one?
Aha, I see , now I know what you meant.
There is a "push-down tounge" you can push down.
We/MB use the MLK series.
In a complete tooling facility, this professional unpinning tool is the way to go : https://desconnect.net/docs/J-48817_...ostal-1139.mp4
However, since the access is good with Hirschmann connector as in ...we can open up part of the connector to see the "tounge", we can use super small eye-wear screwdriver set the slotted one ( minus) to push the "tounge".
Don't push the wrong one/section ...LOL
Male or female terminal, the the "tounge" is the same.
I have the extractor tool you linked, the metal quality is soft, very flexible...no good. I only use it on connector which no way I can have access to the tounge, many Deutz type connector as such.
Branded de-pinning tool is US$50 each size, but hardened super thin steel it must be.
2 or 3 poles connector is still easy to use mini screw-driver to push down the tounge, once a 4 to 6 poles one, its not to comfy to do so due to space restriction.
When re-installed the female terminal inside the connector body, pull up the tounge a bit to maintain its locking capability.
Aha, I see , now I know what you meant.
There is a "push-down tounge" you can push down.
We/MB use the MLK series.
In a complete tooling facility, this professional unpinning tool is the way to go : https://desconnect.net/docs/J-48817_...ostal-1139.mp4
However, since the access is good with Hirschmann connector as in ...we can open up part of the connector to see the "tounge", we can use super small eye-wear screwdriver set the slotted one ( minus) to push the "tounge".
Don't push the wrong one/section ...LOL
Male or female terminal, the the "tounge" is the same.
I have the extractor tool you linked, the metal quality is soft, very flexible...no good. I only use it on connector which no way I can have access to the tounge, many Deutz type connector as such.
Branded de-pinning tool is US$50 each size, but hardened super thin steel it must be.
2 or 3 poles connector is still easy to use mini screw-driver to push down the tounge, once a 4 to 6 poles one, its not to comfy to do so due to space restriction.
When re-installed the female terminal inside the connector body, pull up the tounge a bit to maintain its locking capability.
Thanks for the detailed info! Yes, that small tongue is the thing I tried to push down but maybe my screw driver ended up landing in the side rails. So I wasn’t able to. Having broken the connector clip previously, now I’m more cautious and conservative lol. I will just wait for the extractor tool to arrive and try again. Will report back!
S-Prihadi, I got the terminals extracted with a tiny screwdriver! Previously, I was pushing down the rails next to the clip lock and that was the wrong place. Today I pushed the center of the terminal lock and once the right place was pushed, the terminal exited very smoothly! Oh man I almost gave up on this had you not posted again. Now I have a good connector again! Thank you sir!
It is our eyes, we are no more 20/20 vision and these things ARE SO SMALL !
That is why I use zoomed photo a lot to assist and a 20x magnifying glass to inspect connectors & its female/male electrical pin/terminals of the MLK 1.2 family.
In our cars, this MLK1.2 meaning 1.2mm width of the contact blade, is not the smallest yet.
There are some smaller ones even on the engine, like the engine coolant temperature sensor and all CAN bus wires of 0.35mm are using super small connectors.
05-04-2022, 12:12 AM
I'm gonna try this set of 
