Lowering E63s Wagon
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
Questions for those that installed the KW HAS - can they be adjusted after while on the car? What is a good starting point, or did you just throw them on and adjust up/down after?
My last in warranty service is July 13. Then it's mod time!
My last in warranty service is July 13. Then it's mod time!
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes, they can be adjusted while on the car. That's the whole point! lol! Refer back to the pictures I posted on page one of this thread. I have ~0.25" left of thread (Almost at lowest setting).
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
+1 don't use the KW plastic lowering links.
Buy the metal ones off ebay. I have them, no issues at all.
2010-18 MERCEDES BENZ E63 AMG REAR ADJUSTABLE LOWERING LINKS W212 | eBay
Buy the metal ones off ebay. I have them, no issues at all.
2010-18 MERCEDES BENZ E63 AMG REAR ADJUSTABLE LOWERING LINKS W212 | eBay
So what setting i should use with this kit?
Thanks
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I.T. Guy (07-07-2022)
#36
MBWorld Fanatic!
Seems like full coilover for the front, pillow ball I possibly camber adjustment (the way all coilovers should be).
Airbag delete HAS style for the rear,
Question is, what happens with all the sensors and such?
Airbag delete HAS style for the rear,
Question is, what happens with all the sensors and such?
#38
I have a 2016 e63 wagon with 100K on it. Lately, I hear squealing while driving or when I park and the air suspension starts to go to normal setting, I hear noises. I would like to lower the car. However, in your opinion, what is causing the noises while driving, and have you had this issue?
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have a 2016 e63 wagon with 100K on it. Lately, I hear squealing while driving or when I park and the air suspension starts to go to normal setting, I hear noises. I would like to lower the car. However, in your opinion, what is causing the noises while driving, and have you had this issue?
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
Alright I finally got around to this.
STOCK MEASUREMENTS
Comfort or whatever it's called when zero shock lights are lit
Front ground to fender 27”
Rear ground to fender
L 27" 5/8
R 27" 1/4
STOCK MEASUREMENTS
Comfort or whatever it's called when zero shock lights are lit
Front ground to fender 27”
Rear ground to fender
L 27" 5/8
R 27" 1/4
Last edited by I.T. Guy; 08-03-2022 at 01:31 PM.
#46
MBWorld Fanatic!
I thought this would be a two hour job max.
It was longer.
The first thing I had to figure out was how tp slowly lower and support the hub assembly with a jack stand or piece of wood while it was unbolted. Simple but I had no clue how heavy it might be or how fast and far it would drop. It’s light. I just used my hand and a stand to set it on but it slowed me up a bit.
I realized I didn’t own any “E” reverse torx sockets so had to go buy those.
Then I thought I would need an impact gun for the spring compressor so I went and bought one of those. I used it a little but it was causing the feed screw to gouge the clamp parts and it would bind up even just a turn at a time with lots of grease. Too scary. I preferred by hand socket and wrench.
Then I had to make a tool to undo the top strut nut since I did not have a pass-thru socket. A 13/16 spark plug socked fits the strut nut, and I cut down a torx to fit inside. Then I inserted a 3/8 drive through the spark plug hole in the socket to hold/turn the torx. It worked great!
Then the worst part.
The last time I used the death-stick spring compressors I was a teenager. I had no fear.
This time I thought everything was going to pop and kill me. I will never ever ever EVER do this again. Next time I’m taking the struts to a shop to change the springs. Not worth the risk. Holy hell. At one point I couldn’t get them to release and just hid the stock spring still compressed behind a tree while I contemplated life.
My daughter made a carbon rotor protector. It tied on and was great! Kept them safe and clean.
It already looks way way better only 1/2” lower in the front, with the stock height in rear.
Ride is good too. I hope it hot dogs just as good in sport plus as the stock springs did.
Car is currently getting aligned, and I’ll do another in a few weeks when it settles and I adjust final ride height, installing the rear links if I want to go lower.
With the purple screw adjusting thing 14mm from the bottom black threaded perch the front sits at 26.5” ground to fender which matches what the rear sits at with sport suspension.
I’ll see how much it settles in the next week and decide how low I want to go.
I like it!
At least it’s only on two stands this time!
Safety Blanket
Man these made me nervous! I tightened them outside on the driveway in case something let go it would hopefully fly by me and not get second chances with ricochets.
Survived first of four Russian Roulette spring bombs! Three to go!
The KW spring was much easier and faster to get compressed down to height compared to the stock ones. Trick: adjust the purple adjustment ring down as low as it will go so you have to compress the spring less to fit the top stuff and nut on.
Shortened down a torx socket to fit inside a spark plug socket.
It worked! I set the torque wrench on “loosen” and held the castle nut stationary, using the torque wrench on the torx to hit the required value.
1/2 way there! Only two more Russian Roulette spring bombs of death to go. Why?! WHY?! Oh well, let’s do it.
All in! It was pretty easy and a one man job. Car needs a BAT undercarriage detail!
Sliding a socket over the handle makes it comfortable and way easier to turn.
I'm wondering if I can order a nice long one and not even have to take the wheels off to make adjustments?
26.5, for now, to match the stock rear in sport. On my car that meant the purple adjustment ring is 14mm away from bottoming out on the perch.
No wheel spacers.
Not bad for only a 1/2” drop in the front! I’ll play with it more in a few weeks after it settles.
It was longer.
The first thing I had to figure out was how tp slowly lower and support the hub assembly with a jack stand or piece of wood while it was unbolted. Simple but I had no clue how heavy it might be or how fast and far it would drop. It’s light. I just used my hand and a stand to set it on but it slowed me up a bit.
I realized I didn’t own any “E” reverse torx sockets so had to go buy those.
Then I thought I would need an impact gun for the spring compressor so I went and bought one of those. I used it a little but it was causing the feed screw to gouge the clamp parts and it would bind up even just a turn at a time with lots of grease. Too scary. I preferred by hand socket and wrench.
Then I had to make a tool to undo the top strut nut since I did not have a pass-thru socket. A 13/16 spark plug socked fits the strut nut, and I cut down a torx to fit inside. Then I inserted a 3/8 drive through the spark plug hole in the socket to hold/turn the torx. It worked great!
Then the worst part.
The last time I used the death-stick spring compressors I was a teenager. I had no fear.
This time I thought everything was going to pop and kill me. I will never ever ever EVER do this again. Next time I’m taking the struts to a shop to change the springs. Not worth the risk. Holy hell. At one point I couldn’t get them to release and just hid the stock spring still compressed behind a tree while I contemplated life.
My daughter made a carbon rotor protector. It tied on and was great! Kept them safe and clean.
It already looks way way better only 1/2” lower in the front, with the stock height in rear.
Ride is good too. I hope it hot dogs just as good in sport plus as the stock springs did.
Car is currently getting aligned, and I’ll do another in a few weeks when it settles and I adjust final ride height, installing the rear links if I want to go lower.
With the purple screw adjusting thing 14mm from the bottom black threaded perch the front sits at 26.5” ground to fender which matches what the rear sits at with sport suspension.
I’ll see how much it settles in the next week and decide how low I want to go.
I like it!
At least it’s only on two stands this time!
Safety Blanket
Man these made me nervous! I tightened them outside on the driveway in case something let go it would hopefully fly by me and not get second chances with ricochets.
Survived first of four Russian Roulette spring bombs! Three to go!
The KW spring was much easier and faster to get compressed down to height compared to the stock ones. Trick: adjust the purple adjustment ring down as low as it will go so you have to compress the spring less to fit the top stuff and nut on.
Shortened down a torx socket to fit inside a spark plug socket.
It worked! I set the torque wrench on “loosen” and held the castle nut stationary, using the torque wrench on the torx to hit the required value.
1/2 way there! Only two more Russian Roulette spring bombs of death to go. Why?! WHY?! Oh well, let’s do it.
All in! It was pretty easy and a one man job. Car needs a BAT undercarriage detail!
Sliding a socket over the handle makes it comfortable and way easier to turn.
I'm wondering if I can order a nice long one and not even have to take the wheels off to make adjustments?
26.5, for now, to match the stock rear in sport. On my car that meant the purple adjustment ring is 14mm away from bottoming out on the perch.
No wheel spacers.
Not bad for only a 1/2” drop in the front! I’ll play with it more in a few weeks after it settles.
Last edited by I.T. Guy; 08-04-2022 at 04:14 PM.
#48
MBWorld Fanatic!
I thought that compressor would be SAFER because of the U-bolts, and that being further away from the stock perches would be great because many youtubers show it rubbing/scraping. All it did was just gave the spring a moment arm to act on the feed screws.
It's funny in the first pic you see wheel chocks and jack stands, and then safety quickly degrades to almost zero with that stupid spring compressor. I'm just not ever going to mess with springs again. My luck is done.
#49
MBWorld Fanatic!
After the drop I had a pull to the right, so I got an alignment right away.
It still pulls to the right and the alignment shop says "It's possible the pull is not alignment related, it could be something else creating this pull"
I'm assuming they are full of **** and I need to take it to a better shop? If it's aligned, it's aligned, no?
It still pulls to the right and the alignment shop says "It's possible the pull is not alignment related, it could be something else creating this pull"
I'm assuming they are full of **** and I need to take it to a better shop? If it's aligned, it's aligned, no?
#50
After the drop I had a pull to the right, so I got an alignment right away.
It still pulls to the right and the alignment shop says "It's possible the pull is not alignment related, it could be something else creating this pull"
I'm assuming they are full of **** and I need to take it to a better shop? If it's aligned, it's aligned, no?
It still pulls to the right and the alignment shop says "It's possible the pull is not alignment related, it could be something else creating this pull"
I'm assuming they are full of **** and I need to take it to a better shop? If it's aligned, it's aligned, no?