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Thanks Ken
But shouldn't it still drive straight? Or are you suggesting every lowered car pulls to the right and no one cares? If so that's information I could have used before the mod.
I understand camber changes, which we can't adjust, which affects toe, which we can adjust and get close, but, shouldn't it still be made to not pull right even if not in perfect spec?
Thanks Ken
But shouldn't it still drive straight? Or are you suggesting every lowered car pulls to the right and no one cares? If so that's information I could have used before the mod.
I understand camber changes, which we can't adjust, which affects toe, which we can adjust and get close, but, shouldn't it still be made to not pull right even if not in spec?
My fear is burning up these tires in a week
Yes, even with neg3 degrees, if it's even side to side, it was track straight.
I'm suggesting the possiblity that one side is done one way, and the other side was done differently casing a ~1.5 degree difference from side to side, which would cause a pull.
When you tighten both of those strut bolts, was the suspension supported or was it fully drooping?
Yes, even with neg3 degrees, if it's even side to side, it was track straight.
I'm suggesting the possiblity that one side is done one way, and the other side was done differently casing a ~1.5 degree difference from side to side, which would cause a pull.
When you tighten both of those strut bolts, was the suspension supported or was it fully drooping?
Thank you!
Drooping.
Whoops, I'm guessing I did that wrong?
OH!
Well maybe I need to do those bolts again absolutely fully drooped. I had a stand taking SOME of the weight off the droop, but just like 10-20 lbs or so, because I didn't know how far the axel would pull out and cause different problems if I let it hang too far. Maybe that made it uneven?
The alignment place when I asked "what next" said "try swapping tires left to right". Umm.
I have a weird feeling they didn't even touch the car, although I checked out a few references and they have a great reputation. I don't mind paying I just want it fixed and not chased for weeks. It has to be easily solvable by someone competent! It was 100% fine before I dinked with only 6 bolts. I admit and know I did it, just fixt it please I even told them I was there because I just did the springs myself so it's not like some mystery alignment job.
P.S. anytime a change in links/front coil heights I need another alignment? So if I raise it to stock every winter lower every summer?
In theory, yes.
in real life... no. (other than toe)
any time you change the front end geometry, if effects the alignment specs, true. most of it is camber and toe. But as long as your are lowering both sides exactly the same, then the camber gets changed exactly the same. There is a wide range of factor specs, maybe +/- a 0.55 degree or whatever, likely you will still be within spec.
Having said that the toe absolutely needs to be set with ever height change. but you CAN do this at home with a two tape measures in just a few minutes.
Maybe I wasn't as precise on height as I thought I was? I used calipers to measure the purple adjustment ring to perch to be the same on each side, yielding a a ground to fender measurement that's 2mm different. I just figured no big deal. Maybe it is.
I'm going to drive it a few more days see if I can get it to settle, and then set the real height I want the kit to live at and deal with the alignment then.
Also, At 1:00am doing the lowering job I noticed the left strut upper bearing is crunchy and very stiff, hard to twist. But I didn't want to leave the car apart and just put it back.
And, since I already have an appointment at the dealer for a new driveshaft while I was still in warranty, I just texted them that I also need upper strut bearings. Maybe after the dealer R&R's the struts again (I am _not_ compressing springs ever lol) to replace the bearings, and does the alignment after, it will be fine again?
Keep you all posted. This was an annoyance I had not planned on.
Then there's this, but I don't want to believe it:
OEM the often quoted reassuring “Full Front & Rear ‘4’ Wheel Alignment” is in fact only Toe - directional adjustment. New car industries best kept secret
It is all to do with cost cutting and ever increasing speed of auto assembly lines.
We saw the need to re instate from the 90’s once again Camber and Caster adjustment to resolve costly, premature tire wear and steering pull issues. Excess edge load can also lead to ruptured side walls, rim damage.
See spoiler re Front & Rear Kits
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#503616-1i Front Camber adjustment. Simply replaces lower arm inner bushes. Fit without need for arm removal. Precise single wrench adjustable (accurately under load - direct on alignment rack) $345 (Both Sides). Less then cost of one hi-performance tire.
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ALSO FRONT CAMBER & CASTER ADJUSTABLE TOP STRUT MOUNTS:
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REAR SUSPENSION:
#502126K Camber (and extra Toe to compensate)
Replaces lower arm inner bushes. Fit without need for arm removal. Precise single wrench adjustable $480 (Both Sides)
#502628K Uprated performance bushings for the 6 multi link rear arms. Less twitch, flex, wheel tramp, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake $480 (both sides).
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AUDI to VOLVO - Experience of resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964!
I didn't do my own install for I wouldn't trust myself to put everything back the way it should go. I had a speed shop handle the install and alignment. After settling, I too had a discrepancy in floor to fender height vs how much thread left in the adjustable collars (the amount of thread left in either collar was equal, but the fender to floor height was off). In order to have the same Fender to floor measurements I lowered the front passenger side. The car hasn't exploded yet
I didn't do my own install for I wouldn't trust myself to put everything back the way it should go. I had a speed shop handle the install and alignment. After settling, I too had a discrepancy in floor to fender height vs how much thread left in the adjustable collars (the amount of thread left in either collar was equal, but the fender to floor height was off). In order to have the same Fender to floor measurements I lowered the front passenger side. The car hasn't exploded yet
Awesone.
I think too much.
I tried 26” but personally prefer when the tire has an “even” gap in the wheel arch so cranked it back to 26 1/2
looks great! I have my KW kit sitting in the garage and have been wanting to get it put on. The install really doesn't seem too bad compared to other cars i've done in the past.
Is anyone here running the K-Mac stage 2 front strut top mounts? Im looking to installing these to be able to dial in/out some camber
Question about the rear links
if I use them to lower 1/2” in sport+ does that mean when the car is off and decides to drop to its lowest setting is that setting is now 1/2” lower too?
I had wondered about this issue in the past. I remember posting this question worded similarly and never got a solid answer. What I think is that you are not lowering the car for any one particular setting. That 1/2", in your case, simply applies to ALL modes.
Question about the rear links
if I use them to lower 1/2” in sport+ does that mean when the car is off and decides to drop to its lowest setting is that setting is now 1/2” lower too?
The manual says that there are three height settings, I've only been able to find two basically comfort mode is about 1/2 to 3/4 in higher.
Sport, sport Plus and parking mode is all the exact same height.
I lower my car to the height I want in the lowest setting if that makes sense
Fast forward to about 2min in my video
Thanks
My concern is once in a while it goes lower then parking and sport and I don’t know why.
Parking and sport ^^ how it sits most days and overnight too for days - this is my stock sport height.
But sometimes while filling gas at the pump or just randomly once in a while it goes this low. No leak not defective, just a tantrum?
And if I lower it 1/4” or 1/2” lower in the other settings then the times it goes this low again it’ll be bad news… I think. I can never replicate this setting when I want it lol. Or is this right on the bump stops and I’ll be ok?!
As I reported in a different thread, my car actually sits higher PARKed than when I drive in S/S+. Other members replied to such comment stating it was not the case for them. Those who replied to my "findings" noted their cars sit at their lowest setting when in PARK.
"My concern is once in a while it goes lower then parking and sport and I don’t know why." is exactly why I hate the air suspension in the rear of this car. Not to mention it some times looks like one side is slightly higher than the other.
I would love to see a full coilover solution for these cars enabling a "delete" of the airmatic BS and the in cabin ride dampening select. Set your ride height with spanners and be done.
As I reported in a different thread, my car actually sits higher PARKed than when I drive in S/S+. Other members replied to such comment stating it was not the case for them. Those who replied to my "findings" noted their cars sit at their lowest setting when in PARK.
"My concern is once in a while it goes lower then parking and sport and I don’t know why." is exactly why I hate the air suspension in the rear of this car. Not to mention it some times looks like one side is slightly higher than the other.
I would love to see a full coilover solution for these cars enabling a "delete" of the airmatic BS and the in cabin ride dampening select. Set your ride height with spanners and be done.
Yes! I’ve been measuring the height multiple times a day all four corners and it’s just all over the map even keeping the exact same shock and transmission settings; even the radio station lol. And as you pointed out, sometimes it’s uneven side to side up to 1/2”.
I don’t want to die at high speed from tires shredding on fenders because it’s a full moon and “Christine” decides “just a bit lower today”.
I just adjusted the fronts down more and they change height too depending what the rears are doing - not physically themselves but the fender to ground just because everything’s connected.
I’ll fiddle with the links one day soon I hope, still trying to nail down the fronts.
Yes! I’ve been measuring the height multiple times a day all four corners and it’s just all over the map even keeping the exact same shock and transmission settings; even the radio station lol. And as you pointed out, sometimes it’s uneven side to side up to 1/2”.
I don’t want to die at high speed from tires shredding on fenders because it’s a full moon and “Christine” decides “just a bit lower today”.
I just adjusted the fronts down more and they change height too depending what the rears are doing - not physically themselves but the fender to ground just because everything’s connected.
I’ll fiddle with the links one day soon I hope, still trying to nail down the fronts.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
