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That’s pretty cool, that would be very help to see. I’ve been saying if the thermal paste is the issue and resolves my amp issue that would be a pretty satisfying fix if you ask me. Praying that’s the issue and it’s an easy fix and nothing more!
1- Partially blocked air outlet!
This is the Amplifier final stage section that handles the most power to drive speaker voice coils.
2- Sandwiched FAN
The cooling fan is located between TWO HOT SECTIONS. This is less than ideal conditions for the fan itself... normally long lasting fan push cool air onto hot parts, fan do not draw hot air out but here yes.
So check what condition this fan is in and check that it is a ball bearing fan (not a sleeve bearing).
3- Fan pokes through PCB
Make sure that side is mostly sealed with little to no air leakage...
4- Power section ROHS solders
These heavy & cold solders are borderline ugly because difficult to produce. Reflow them with flux for added longevity.
5- Banks of capacitors
These caps do not like heat... check that none are bulged or leaking electrolytes out on the board.
6- Circuit solder side
I looked over this side for signes of additional troubles, I did not see any besides mentioned above.
> OVERALL REVIEW :
The built quality of this B&O is greater than the HK amp unit. It is extremely compact.
Cooling is a limiting factor. You want to try to improve a good positive air flow through with additional vent holes.
We have not seen nothin' yet... The heat transfer from the surface mounted (no through holes) power elements (integrated chips or MosFets) remains unseen!
You need to open that long metal air tunnel to access the thermal paste section. Without that not much may have been accomplished in the way of finding/fixing your output problem with heat, right?
The nice thing about this amp is it gets to cool with all the trunk air available, where in contrast the HK amp is jailed on the trunk left side, conveniently recycling hot air around
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 07-01-2022 at 07:21 PM.
Hello cali thanks for the reply, I ended up putting the amp back in, I did not open up that metal cover as I didn’t think anything of it but I will indeed open it up again. Do you think the amp is savable by the looks of those pictures? Today the sound cut off very fast due to it being very hot and humid today so it’s for sure something with the heating.
Hello cali thanks for the reply, I ended up putting the amp back in, I did not open up that metal cover as I didn’t think anything of it but I will indeed open it up again.
Do you think the amp is savable by the looks of those pictures?
Today the sound cut off very fast due to it being very hot and humid today so it’s for sure something with the heating.
Until you can pin-point the problem and fix it, nothing's changed. Your amp looks in great shape... JUST LIKE NEW!
Like I said in my review above: it may be the FAN is simply stuck or cooked. Can you hear it spinning or feel airflow with a candle ??? A good ball bearing fan cost about $10 in USA
If it was me... I would stop overheating the amp for fear of blowing things up... the way it is protecting itself so well tells me, it uses power chips instead of discreet MosFets transistors.
Do not keep pushing it,
fix it !
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 07-01-2022 at 09:19 PM.
Is it correct that there are no vent holes in the amp case? I had expected to see some metal directly conducting heat out to the case, but it looks like air circulated by the fan is the only thing doing that job. Xentry can perform a fan self-test on the amp, but that kind of makes me think it might not automatically report an error for fan problems. Based on what we've seen so far, I'd agree that this is a good thing to investigate further.
I'm definitely curious about the thermal management under that metal cover, almost enough to make me go tear my own amp apart just for fun. That looks like it came apart as easily as I had hoped and much more so than expected.
Hello Log it indeed did come off and out easily but I didn’t get anywhere yesterday taking it out sadly, once it’s fixed that’s one thing I don’t have to worry about. I will for sure take it out again but this time when it’s out I hope it’s the last time it’s out!
I was wondering the same wether it was just for the sub woofer in the trunk or more than that. I only got around to opening the amp I sent pictures of. The right amp that I didn’t open up was hotter to the touch
Does ALL sound cuts out -Or woofer still running when main cuts out?
> First thing first:
The overheating fault code you have points you to one specific module. I would take care of this module first before disturbing anything else.
The way the media fiber MOST is daisy chained all around makes it uneasy to deal with multiple questionable modules.
The sound doesn’t cut out but it gets weak and sounds like it’s coming from one speaker and when it does go into that safe mode there is no bass at all. So when the bass hits too hard when it’s running normal that’s when it’ll go into that safe mode and then the sound sounds like it’s coming only from the dash board speaker when it does go into safe mode but if you put your ear to the door speakers you hear the sound ever so slightly
My B&O system has been having the exact issue as the original post - bass cuts when the system gets too loud and goes into a "safe mode".
I had the same overheating code for the amp - the one on the right when looking at the trunk.
I replaced the right side amp with a used model from eBay. Plugged it in, coded for my car, played some music and it still cuts. Only now, the heat code disappeared for the right amp when scanned, just to be replaced by a code stemming from the OTHER amp (the one on the left).
So, we find an E63 with a working B&O system and replace my left amp with theirs - same code, sound still cuts after 30 seconds...
SO, I've essentially replaced both amps and am still receiving codes with the sound cutting issue still present. At a loss for what to try next... any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Was having this issue. I brought both of my amps to a amp repair store near me. I was told that the Amps were not my issue, instead a bad speaker or sub was the cause. I unplugged the connection to my sub, and haven’t had this problem since. So it could be a bad speaker or sub throwing everything off.
Was having this issue. I brought both of my amps to a amp repair store near me. I was told that the Amps were not my issue, instead a bad speaker or sub was the cause. I unplugged the connection to my sub, and haven’t had this problem since. So it could be a bad speaker or sub throwing everything off.
I had a local audio shop test all my speakers - they said all were working fine.
I disconnected the subwoofer - the issue was still present.
I sent out both of my amps to FastOEM.com in California - awaiting their diagnosis now.
I had a local audio shop test all my speakers - they said all were working fine.
I disconnected the subwoofer - the issue was still present.
I sent out both of my amps to FastOEM.com in California - awaiting their diagnosis now.
Update: I got my refurbed amp back and the safe mode issue was still present
I then replaced my subwoofer with one on eBay off a CLS63 - A212 820 33 02
SOLVED! All of my sound and bass is back and can be played as loud as ever.
I'm not sure if it was the sub AND the amp, or just the sub... so, if anyone is experiencing this issue, I'd first unplug the subwoofer in the trunk by the spare tire and test. If all is good and no safe mode is initiated, replace the sub. I paid about 1k usd for a used one on eBay.
07-01-2022, 12:19 AM
