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Got the job done yesterday. Everything came together like a jigsaw puzzle. There was another caveat I should point to those who plan to DIY this. There are two coolant holes in the water pump that aren’t for our vehicle. They are plugged with two plastic non-reusable plugs. The new pump did not come with these. You will need these to finish the job. Unfortunately for me, my local dealer did not have these in stock(along with 99% of all the other parts lol). Fortunately, I have a father in law with a lathe. He took measurements of the plugs off of the dead pump and made two of these plugs out of aluminum. All we had to do is put the o-rings on them. It all worked out well and I am happy to report no leaks from those two plugs.
Part# A2782010103
As a little bonus, we decided to redo the intake ducts 😁
OMG you need to tell me more about those intakes, how did you make or where di you get them from, need more info please !!!
For those that don't have welding skills (like me) I used this neat tool from harbor freight, pop it into the back of a 8 MM 1/4" drive socket (or the correct e10 torx socket if you have one) and use an open end wrench to loosen the single bolt at the turbo that holds on the 2 coolant lines, once I broke it loose I was able to spin the socket/ hex adaptor with my finger tips to get that bolt out. I only replaced the 3 plastic coolant lines( for the left turbo), I replaced the o-rings on the right turbo lines that do not contain plastic. I ended up taking out the fan, sort of a pain but well worth it once it was out. I also replaced the oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets while there. On my oil filter housing there was a leak from a round plastic plug that holds in the oil thermostat spring, It appears to be the source of my oil leak, it can be ordered from mercedes for 18.00. Even though my water pump pulley had walked out only about 1/2 as much as CZ75's had, once off I find the bearing is partially seized and squeaking when you spin it. It had no visible leaks and no noise when running, car has 66k miles.
For those that don't have welding skills (like me) I used this neat tool from harbor freight, pop it into the back of a 8 MM 1/4" drive socket (or the correct e10 torx socket if you have one) and use an open end wrench to loosen the single bolt at the turbo that holds on the 2 coolant lines, once I broke it loose I was able to spin the socket/ hex adaptor with my finger tips to get that bolt out. I only replaced the 3 plastic coolant lines( for the left turbo), I replaced the o-rings on the right turbo lines that do not contain plastic. I ended up taking out the fan, sort of a pain but well worth it once it was out. I also replaced the oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets while there. On my oil filter housing there was a leak from a round plastic plug that holds in the oil thermostat spring, It appears to be the source of my oil leak, it can be ordered from mercedes for 18.00. Even though my water pump pulley had walked out only about 1/2 as much as CZ75's had, once off I find the bearing is partially seized and squeaking when you spin it. It had no visible leaks and no noise when running, car has 66k miles.
Dang glad you were able to get the water pump done before it too seized up. Seems like for some the 60k+ mile range is where they start to go.
As promised. Belt seems pretty even with back of pulley. Where does the belt sit on a brand new pump?
You can see a line that the edge of the belt has left imprinted on the pulley. Yours is a little further back than that. Nothing compared to my old one though.
Beautiful job there! I just developed a coolant leak and need to get the radiator fan out to have a better look, but I can't get the fan out due to the metal plate under the cold air intake. I've searched the forums but haven't found a solution, so I figured I'd ask you - how did you get the radiator fan out of there without removing the bumper?? I'm hoping you'll say something so simple I'll feel really dumb about it - but I'm married so I'm used to the feeling
Beautiful job there! I just developed a coolant leak and need to get the radiator fan out to have a better look, but I can't get the fan out due to the metal plate under the cold air intake. I've searched the forums but haven't found a solution, so I figured I'd ask you - how did you get the radiator fan out of there without removing the bumper?? I'm hoping you'll say something so simple I'll feel really dumb about it - but I'm married so I'm used to the feeling
We loosened that metal plate and were able to wiggle out the fan once we disconnected the hose going through it.
We loosened that metal plate and were able to wiggle out the fan once we disconnected the hose going through it.
Thanks for the fast reply.. I'll give that a shot - just didn't seem at first glance that there would be enough room but obviously it can work! Thanks!
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
