W212 AMG Discuss the W212 AMG's such as the E63

\\ RENNtech R1 Package Issues //

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Old Sep 27, 2023 | 09:56 AM
  #101  
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E550 Coupe 2wd (2016)
post any HP runs you have and ill take a look. note the time stamp where it happens. be sure to record spark, knock retard, iat, water & oil temp, map, pedal & throttle position, egt, load, torque, lambda, voltage and turbo dc. maybe vvt, amb temp & pressure.
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Old Sep 27, 2023 | 10:14 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Chevota
post any HP runs you have and ill take a look. note the time stamp where it happens. be sure to record spark, knock retard, iat, water & oil temp, map, pedal & throttle position, egt, load, torque, lambda, voltage and turbo dc. maybe vvt, amb temp & pressure.
I posted some runs from HPTuners before, did you look at those yet? I can do some more soon when I have time.
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Old Sep 29, 2023 | 03:01 AM
  #103  
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I remember now. It looks like it's pulling a ton of timing on the "Tuned Qtr Mile" run, and the "Tuned Run" not so much, but it's also a different tune.
It seems to me power doesn't really peter out until 90? Starting at 90, five seconds later you're at 118.8, I'm at 123. At 6 sec you're 123.6 and I'm 128.4. The other tuned run was ever slower.
Are they both Renntech, or HP, or one each? Send me the HP tune files, stock too, so I can take a look-c.

Your water temp is high too, imo. They pull power as temp goes up and mine (OEM) pulls power starting at 113F and gets worse with every degree. So I set mine to not do that until ~225F, but I usually never break 205 so it never happens.
There is also a setting in there to dampen throttle closing so you don't pressure spike nearly as much when you let off.
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Old Oct 9, 2023 | 07:32 PM
  #104  
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Attached some runs between stock and tuned. Quick skim, I see IATs going up more when tuned but the power is cut before it reaches higher temperatures, so I would think it's a by product of whatever is causing the issue in power. The tune ran better than usual but still has some struggles in the top end. If anyone notices anything out of the ordinary, let me know, really appreciate it.

Tuned = RENNtech ECU Tune R1 Package with Diverter Valve (696 HP)
Used to have Weistec TCU Tune but flashed TCU back to stock for now
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
Stock Log PI.hpl (332.4 KB, 63 views)
File Type: hpl
Tuned Log PI.hpl (356.6 KB, 264 views)
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Old Oct 11, 2023 | 04:00 AM
  #105  
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It looks like more of the same, lots of ping and retard city.
Your Exh is scary to me. Maybe it's ok, I dunno, but 1300 scares me.
Your water temp is kinda scary high imo, I'm guessing thanks to the timing.
IAT is higher than I could ever do. I'm not sure I could hit that if I unplugged my IC pump.

I'd say add a lot of octane and see how it responds. If I didn't mention it before, I have to have 30% Ethanol just to run the oem spark tables. I'd give it shot, if it were me.
If you were to use HP to pull the tune out, or the stock one, I think it would be fairly easy to fix.
It's such a long thread I can't remember if all this has been mentioned or not, but it seems to me it's octane and intercooler. Or dial the timing back to work on your gas, plus whatever intercooler issue you have.

You could also make a run starting ~90 so it's not already hot, to see how it compares. I'm sure it'll run better, until heats up again.
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Old Oct 11, 2023 | 03:58 PM
  #106  
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2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ECU dyno tune; EDOK TCU tune; BB intakes; sprintbooster
Can you get this to a reputable tuner with a dyno? I forget if you also did this - someone who can make changes and dyno test at the same time
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Old Oct 15, 2023 | 06:27 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Can you get this to a reputable tuner with a dyno? I forget if you also did this - someone who can make changes and dyno test at the same time
Local performance shops to me all default to same shop and I've talked to the owner before. He would dyno but not tune, but can barely ever get a hold of him to get a dyno session in. AMR used to be near me but they moved.

Attached are 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear manual mode runs. If anyone sees anything let me know, but 4th seems to be the problem maker from my butt dyno. Quick note, log with 3rd and 4th is unintentionally long idle recording so ignore the second half of that log. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
2-3 gears.hpl (39.2 KB, 52 views)
File Type: hpl
3-4 gears.hpl (79.3 KB, 45 views)
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Old Oct 16, 2023 | 10:27 PM
  #108  
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Certainly an improvement, is this because of colder ambient?
Still petering out at higher speeds, so you're not imagining it. Are you sure your IC pump is working? It looks to me like it's flat out dead.
You have less ping, which I assume is due to the colder air, but once the IAT skyrockets it's ping city again. So if I were to bet $1 I'd say your IC pump is dead and the gains since last time are all thanks to ambient temp
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Old Oct 17, 2023 | 08:25 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Chevota
Certainly an improvement, is this because of colder ambient?
Still petering out at higher speeds, so you're not imagining it. Are you sure your IC pump is working? It looks to me like it's flat out dead.
You have less ping, which I assume is due to the colder air, but once the IAT skyrockets it's ping city again. So if I were to bet $1 I'd say your IC pump is dead and the gains since last time are all thanks to ambient temp
I haven’t checked yet, I’m bringing it in most likely next Thursday. I’m going to make sure the IC pump is looked at, especially with anything connected. The weird thing is that there are previous runs I had that the IATs were either lower or the same as stock but it still cut power. I really hope the IC pump is my issue because it would be more straightforward.
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Old Oct 18, 2023 | 01:26 AM
  #110  
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My car ran with peak IATs of 165+ with no ping or pulled timing, but that was with an e85 mix. What kind of gas are you using, and have you tried a different station? If there's e85 somewhere near you (Speedway, perhaps), add a few gallons and see how it acts. Replacing the knock sensor is also a possibility.

The IC pump is supposed to come on at 45*C (113*F). It lags though and isn't quick enough to drop temps during WOT, which is why people run the always-on pump mod. Have you verified that there is enough fluid in the reservoir, and have you ever seen it circulating/bubbling? If the car is warmed up, you should be able to do a few quick 5-60 type pulls back-to-back on the street then quickly pull into a gas station, pop the hood, and see the fluid moving. If you have HPTuners connected, you can verify that it's above 45*C when you're checking it. The IC pump works reasonably quickly though at low speeds, so you can't wait too long to check it since it'll shut back off at a certain temp. I was able to check mine doing something like this.
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Old Jun 29, 2024 | 08:13 PM
  #111  
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Did OP ever get the car running right?
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Old Jul 1, 2024 | 09:03 PM
  #112  
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I'm curious as well. Especially if it was the IC pump.
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