thank you

 

We must keep in mind that the problem is NOT the oil pump solenoid itself, it is the programming of our ECU which drop oil pressure from idle to @3000 rpm (I may need to check @S-Prihadi thread for his experimental verification)

By disabling the access to the oil pump solenoid we are preventing the ECU from managing the oil pump.

How is the saying? "Do not blame the messenger", i.e. the oil pump solenoid.

To top it off, by introducing another component the oil has to travel through, engineers have introduced another failure point sensitive to oil maintenance schedule and oil quality

here we can see that Ford at least made it accessible from the outside, but MB decided we needed to drop the oil pan to replace it, . For the I4 cyl, it is @$2K, but for the V6/V8 can be $4K+ because the sub-frame must be removed to remove the oil pan.

 

I imagine the failure rate of the solenoid is probably low but I can't imagine the extra strain in the timing chains is that much either.

 

There is no extra strain in the timing chain because the hydraulic tensioners have a mechanical relief valve that bleeds pressure at a set psi.

 

Cool

 

I don't expect anything to change or go back to the way it was. This isn't fooling the engine into working better. It's just mechanically working better. I would also say it's working as designed, not being tricked to work better than designed.

 

looking forward to your objective impressions in 3 weeks, thanks again for the contribution

 

Absolutely. I don't know exactly how many miles I have on this mod, but a few hundred at least. I have a good track record so far of my hypothesis being correct so hopefully I have this one straight, too.

Amusing myself with a new signature.

 

wanted to chime because we have seen moisture at more than one solenoid and know some members have had full harness replacement due to this or other topside sensors leaking, it could mean oil solenoid failures are imminent if there is leaking at that junction. Plugging the sensor with a spare connector does not stop the leak, but the travel. The leak may be stopped or slowed depending how this whole experiment plays out with block pressures.

Following closely.

I like more oil and have done everything to use the right products and do the preventive repairs so this solenoid information is very interesting.

 

> CHAIN GAME:
Once you assess engine damages from oil starvation we can say chains likely benefit from normal pressure.

Classic low-pressure head damages are:

• Shaved exhaust camshafts lobes
• Scored camshaft journals
• Flattened HPFP rollers
• Rattle impact shifting cam plates
• (Toasted plastics/seals)

There's also less efforts to drive well lubed frictions.


> SMOOOTH:
I am currently entering territories where ECU + TCU work in perfect synchronicity above 800Rpm. I am positively amazed.

When ECU calls a shift, it backs down throttle shortly for 200ms during the shift execution before rematching new rpm - It's pretty sofisticated to witness the new tricks my poney is doing. That's a perfect way of smooth shifting. I retired delayed banging shifts a while ago (15kMi) and was used to okay-lack-luster shifts most would enjoy. Now that's a distinct new step up!!

-- Much has been said about how wonderful the super advanced tranny supposedly was... TCU works its best when the ECU is in predictable moods. That's where to focus the quest for improvements.

-- I remain on the lookout for pickup hesitations from full stops...

-- Recently "gear-1 vs. gear-2" auto selection seems to be undergoing changes - Interesting software behaviors!



++++ ADAPTS
This is only made possible by good adaptations and normalized crankcase pressure ... predictable maps.

 

Are you guys comfortable leaving both the plug and sensor itself exposed once disconnected? Looks like someone covered it in foil. Any other options to keep dirt and grime out?

 

I had an extra camshaft magnet sacrificial harness on hand. I cut the wires , taped it up to look like it was normal and plugged it in the solenoid and the harness. Same plug as oil solenoid.

 

That's a good idea. I have an extra one of those, too.

 

I just zip-tied the connector to a nearby harness both male/female sides are exposed. I am not too worried about this connector going bad in the next ten years.


> CONSISTANT D1:
Right now my TCU seems to have learned to always shift into D1 when car is at a complete stop (regardless of uphill downhill or flat terrain) - Before it was more often than not picking up from stop in S2.
Now it picks up in D1 and shifts up into D2 shortly as it should.


> ECU LIKES D1:
Right now ECU is busy delivering crisp reliable pickups that tranny is learning without any manual shifting intervention.

The engine is learning consistent mixture from predictable gear work. Not long ago the throttle response around pick-up was a bit inconsistent....


> HESITATIONS:
I am leaning towards saying initial pickup hesitations seems to be disappearing as ECU/TCU compute a precise mixture from D1>D2>D3... definitely much improved there.
(Hesitations & poor performance were consistent with not having the exact mixture mapped).

Once you know what's going on it's fun to watch things improve incrementally. I discovered the smart interactions between tranny and engine provided the CAN-C is uninpacted by the stupid troublemaking LPFP harness.
​​​​​​
These networked computers are super interactive. They only need a little help from us to get in the mood for self-improvement.


> POWER:
When ECU willingly hands out more gas, engine put out more power... duh!

Instead of begging for power, the pedal response is very firm and linear: plenty of smooth gas available early on a super steep slope.

By having an honestly built fuel map, now my engine is more responsive than 500Mi after I unplugged. IT'S A WAY DIFFERENT ENGINE NOW.

Gas pedal is super nimble.
One would say car is more aggressive because of engine linear performance and tranny always being in the right gear for what the engine wants to do.

Both ECU/TCU can make the output soar in a snap... I can only imagine with twin low-rpm turbos, this will be unlimited power at 3000Rpm with smooth shifts minus uncontrolled ridiculous heat of dry lube

I sincerely say thank you Master @S-Prihadi All Day Long for this transformation! - Many ppl take everythings for granted, I am very thankful for elusive greatness we get to enjoy.


I am curious how you see these improvements playout in your particular engine/tranny from pickup, shifts, D1, brakes vs. vacuum


++++ the engine output is violent:
Once there are very little hesitations left, you'll enjoy the kind of row power control you get.
👍

Before disconnecting you'd get that kind of power around 2500Rpm, now you get it off the idle, starting at 900Rpm.

 

 

This guy is slick - Always great content
👏

 

Great video. I would love for him to comment on what he thinks caused the bore scoring. Mileage on the engine would have also been good to know, or even year.

 

He said 2013 ML550 I thought, and I'd bet high miles. I noticed the oil pump valve plug on the timing cover is just a pass-through/grommet type thing. It's not the actual valve.

Lack of piston squirter operation during low oil pressure mode is probably causal, or at least a contributing factor.

 

Can we get a total count of how many of you guys have unplugged the harness?

 

Some really good info regarding scoring in this article:

https://lnengineering.com/files/2019...er-Systems.pdf

Some good info on page 7 and onwards. Seems multi factorial with extreme cold starts, cylinder washout, and piston to wall clearance with insufficient piston coating being main concerns.

 

Extra oil on the cylinder walls has to help.

 

Keeping the pistons cool as well. I'm thinking the cylinder to wall tolerance is tight for when those pistons get super hot and expand. Having them bathed with oil from the squirters more frequently should definitely help

 

I have on two cars: 2015 SL400 and 2014 C350. Does that count as one or two?

 

From page 7: "Cold start conditions with insufficient lubrication and higher porosity from the aforementioned pitting of the aluminum matrix further reduce scuffing resistance." Kinda says it all.

 

I woud say it's less than 10 engines are known to be running this mod besides the many chassis with TSB "Lucky Solenoid DTC!"

> STARTUP IDLE LUBE:
-- At each engine startup the valve is proven to momentarily get deactivated to provide faster lubrication and help flush air out of VVT, tensioners.

-- Shortly after it is reactivated to provide low pressure.

-- Since startup speed is near idle RPM, squirters are not activated regardless of solenoid. Idle pressure is low and not enough to lubricate pistons.


> M278 TEAR DOWN VIDEO:
Shows the dismantling of a damaged but working TT engine.
Cause is presumed to be "misfire codes" from unbalanced cylinders compressions.

-- The main issues are caused by pistons scoring cylinders and sending non-magnetic glitter all around the engine pass filtration. (inspecting your oil filter is a quick way to see evidence of piston shading contaminants).

-- Camshafts area has mild issues with HPFP lobes and aluminum valve cover journals.

-- we see intake valves jacketed by burned intake oil.

--> Overall this video shows evidence of accelerated engine wear when high torque is produced during marginal oil pressure.

Catastrophic failures can happen for couple reasons :
-- when non-magnetic piston shavings go plug the bearings lube ports. Bearings get spuned!

-- when overheated pistons crack into chunks and pieces.

-- when solenoid plunger get jammed by debris, pump is then stuck on low pressure only: express RIP!

> FLIPPING CURSE:
To tilt the odds for engine longevity, nothing misteriously advanced. It's best to have clean engine internals without glitter along with normal oil pressure.
>> Simple oil pan cleaning sounds like a great idea