Transmission drain/fill
I see my car ('16 cls63s) listed in the fitment but just wasn't sure about the red vs blue....
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tosin-7229late
Edit...Maybe ill clean out the mityvac with dawn and use these 2 accessories..
Last edited by bentz69; Dec 17, 2023 at 06:00 PM.




My advice would be to get an infrared temp gun (cheap on Amazon) if you don't have one and use that in addition to a scan tool to determine fill temp when you're setting the level just to be sure, and to make sure the trans pan is level when setting. If you're jacked up on an uneven surface, you can undo the trans mount to lower or raise the back of it to level it out.
Make sure you have enough (and add 15%) fluid and take your time, it's pretty straightforward.
Other than that, trying to figure out the correct sequence here....
After draining, dropping the pan, remove/replace filter, re-install clean pan/gasket/magnets and overflow pipe,
-pump in about 6 quarts
-start the car. While warming up to 113f, shift through P D N R a few times
-turn off car at 113f, cool down a bit then turn on again and idle in P
-If no fluid comes out, add more fluid until it pours back out while staying under 113f
-tighten plug when fluid stops dripping
Is that correct?




Not sure how the crossmember sits in yours, but make sure you have good access to all pan bolts to torque them properly. My E63 is no problem, our GL63 I need 2 weird wobbly extensions to make it work with the rear bolts.
And no, don't bother w/ the pump, we have no torque converter plug to access. You might get a tiny bit more fluid out but it's easier/better to just do more frequent changes anyway.
Using a level on the pan both left to right and front to back helps to ensure the car is sitting correct so the right amount of fluid is in the pan.
Mityvac did the job perfectly with the two attachments from the first post.
Cross-member had to be removed to access two of the pan bolts. No big deal but I didn't realize it supported the transmission mount. Upon re-tightening, I had to push the weight of the transmission up a little bit to seat the bolts correctly.
I did not need to remove the auxiliary pump to remove the pan. It was not in the way.
My pan only had one magnet. I thought there was supposed to be two but my reading suggests one or two magnets depending on model.
I found it strange that the filter came out at the same time when I dropped the pan. Essentially the filter was sitting in the pan. I think when I was titling the pan forward to drain the excess after knocking off the fill tube, the back of the pan was putting pressure on the edge of the filter and it slid out (if that makes sense).
Last edited by bentz69; Jan 14, 2024 at 11:54 PM.
Using a level on the pan both left to right and front to back helps to ensure the car is sitting correct so the right amount of fluid is in the pan.
Mityvac did the job perfectly with the two attachments from the first post.
Cross-member had to be removed to access two of the pan bolts. No big deal but I didn't realize it supported the transmission mount. Upon re-tightening, I had to push the weight of the transmission up a little bit to seat the bolts correctly.
I did not need to remove the auxiliary pump to remove the pan. It was not in the way.
My pan only had one magnet. I thought there was supposed to be two but my reading suggests one or two magnets depending on model.
I found it strange that the filter came out at the same time when I dropped the pan. Essentially the filter was sitting in the pan. I think when I was titling the pan forward to drain the excess after knocking off the fill tube, the back of the pan was putting pressure on the edge of the filter and it slid out (if that makes sense).
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There is an o-ring on the filter part that presses into the valve body. The o-ring should hold it in place.






