Forged rim vs cast rim weight
Thanks!!
{edit} After looking more at pics, I am warming up to the black forged..... I guess these are much stronger, being forged. If they save 2-3 pounds a wheel that is a bonus.
Last edited by Audiodog; Oct 14, 2017 at 11:45 PM.
Last edited by 2012 merc amg; Oct 15, 2017 at 01:19 AM.
Forged vs "standard" (front)
13.24 kg VS 13.66kg
Forged vs "standard" (rear)
13.04 kg VS 13.22kg
Yes, front wheel is heavier than rear.
Forged vs "standard" (front)
13.24 kg VS 13.66kg
Forged vs "standard" (rear)
13.04 kg VS 13.22kg
Yes, front wheel is heavier than rear.
Personally I will use 19" wheels most of the time as it's impossible to find studded tires in the correct dimension for 20".
Personally I will use 19" wheels most of the time as it's impossible to find studded tires in the correct dimension for 20".
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I have them on many cars and love them the caveat is the upfront cost is big and replacing them is expensive. Key is don't let the pads wear more then 50% before replacing them
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Personally I will use 19" wheels most of the time as it's impossible to find studded tires in the correct dimension for 20".
I'll be really happy if it really is less dust
I am thinking it is cheaper to pay my kids $5 or $10 bucks allowance a week to keep the wheels clean!
The only real benefit is then the 13 pound unsprung weight savings. How meaningful is it?
I'd like to go back to 19s with my incoming W213 as there will be more rubber between the rim and the bad roads, railroad tracks, etc.
The car must be ordered with 20" anyways, but winter wheels can be delivered in 19" as long as the car is not equipped with CCB.
Thanks in advance
One problem I've had with US cars in the past with engines up front is too much brake bias to the rear and rear wheel lockup necessitating the lifting of brake pressure to keep the car under control in a turn - this before anti-lock brakes came on the scene.
On motorcycles the problem is even worse, on heaving braking during racing it's routine to have the rear wheel loft off the pavement. Engine braking alone is enough to cause rear wheel lockup. So you have a double job of managing front brake pressure to keep from overloading the front end, and clutch operation to keep the rear end from locking up. I know of guys who intentionally bleed in some air in the rear brake line on their bikes to make the rear brake less sensitive. Others have filed down the rear pads to make them less effective - and this is with a single disc / single piston caliper in the rear vs the dual disc / multiple piston calipers you have up front.
So I'm not troubled at all by Mercedes doing essentially the same thing here. I'm reasonably comfortable with the notion that they've designed in the right amount of braking force for the job at hand.
Would probably require a slightly higher profile tire I would imagine . . .








