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I spend my days contemplating whether its Continental or Michelin. A/S or summers. My last experience with Michelin looked like this when I pulled them out for spring, they were done but I'd hoped to get a bit out of them. All four did this and the subsequent winters and summers have worn properly on a Jaguar XFR. I recognize any rational person would say there's a camber or suspension problem but there was a long list of people on Jag Forums suffering from this failure. To be clear, there were no threads when I put them away, they just sort of came apart in storage.
Those look to have been over inflated slightly when in use, but I don't see anything I would consider caused by suspension problems.
Agreed, it looks like an over inflation wear pattern. I also see what looks like excessive toe which wore the inboard shoulder down (where you can see the cords).
IDK. If it had excessive toe wouldn't the tread near the shoulder be worn more?. From my dumb high school days damage like that would come from the tire hitting the fender.
IDK. If it had excessive toe wouldn't the tread near the shoulder be worn more?. From my dumb high school days damage like that would come from the tire hitting the fender.
Factory ride height, no spacers, stock size on the car. Never a fender touched.
It just seems impossible to me that the shoulder should look like that when the wear is reasonably even otherwise. In researching tires at the time I found that a lot of companies were introducing a shoulder reinforcement to stop the separation.
IDK. If it had excessive toe wouldn't the tread near the shoulder be worn more?. From my dumb high school days damage like that would come from the tire hitting the fender.
Most likely, yes. And possibly some sawtooth-like tread wear on that shoulder. I'm just guessing with little data to go off of. From looking at the tire, the camber looks good, so it only leaves toe or caster. Normal wear should probably not be as thin as it looks in that shoulder area in the pic so much that the cords emerged, but the tread itself did not. Who knows.
You make a good point, I've lost a couple of tires in the past that had a groove cut in them on the inboard shoulder from rubbing on a suspension part, but only when the suspension was compressed. Took me a while to figure that one out. But that was on a custom/wider wheel and tire setup.
Factory ride height, no spacers, stock size on the car. Never a fender touched.
It just seems impossible to me that the shoulder should look like that when the wear is reasonably even otherwise. In researching tires at the time I found that a lot of companies were introducing a shoulder reinforcement to stop the separation.
Yes - The reality is it’s all about OEM now only providing basic TOE - directional adjustment !
No longer Front Camber (or Caster) and no Rear Camber allowing to adjust / compensate for excess edge wear. Now one set Camber position - at showroom height.
Onus now back on owners to fund costly premature tire replacement.
It’s all to do with “ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines”. Still incorporating adjustability and having to set Camber and Caster IS NO LONGER AN OPTION !
With no adjustment to cater for excess edge wear through varying height or loads. Excess passenger side edge wear through higher cambered roads. Fitting wide profile tires or being able to compensate for curb knocks.
AMG PERFORMANCE…. YET NOT ABLE TO FINE TUNE ADJUST. Dial in extra Negative Camber for performance or TRACK DAYS (to reduce understeer - in the pursuit of hitting those corner apexes every time and allowing to go deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response).
WE SAW THE NEED THEREFORE AND MANUFACTURE BOLT-ON (No special tools or time consuming need to remove control arms to install) Front CAMBER and CASTER. Rear CAMBER (and extra Toe) kits. Easily accessible and single wrench adjustable - direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
K-MAC Front Caster bushes do away with the OEM large soft rubber bushes replacing with Mono ball / Self aligning. Allowing arms to still travel through their required suspension arcs but significantly improving Brake and Steering response !
SEE SPOILER RE TOTAL SYSTEM MANUFACTURED
Spoiler
W213 AMG
FRONT SUSPENSION
#503416K $480 Camber & Caster (Both Sides) #503416-1i $345 Camber Only (Both Sides)
(less cost then one hi-performance tire).
Above kits provide up to 2 extra degrees Positive or Negative Camber
#503316-2J $380 Camber & Caster (Both Sides)
Upper arm inner bushings - also replacing OEM soft rubber (extra adjustment - Track days in combination with above kits provide 3.5 degrees Camber change).
NOTE “ALL ABOVE KITS” - For security peace of mind - not welded fabricated BUT RETAIN THE OEM HI-STRENGTH FORGED ALLOY ARMS !
REAR SUSPENSION
#502326-1K $480 Camber & Extra Toe (Both Sides)
(Up to extra 4 degrees Positive or Negative Camber and same as front - K-MAC unique patented design allows precise single wrench easily accessible adjustment - Ultimate direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
#502628K $480 Uprated bushings for the ‘6’ Rear Multi Link arms Tauter response. Less twitch, flex, wheel tramp / loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.
DHL Express Air Worldwide $40 one kit ($20 each extra).
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
Limited reading on XFR says toe only in rear. I would add that it's not impossi le that rear bushing wear didn't contribute...but the wear doesn't add up.
Guys,
Had some serious fun yesterday going in circles but turning left and right. These cars are insane and I did not fully realize the capabilities until I started eating various expensive 2 seaters for snacks.
Needless to say I’m shoe shopping, but have some quick questions.
I believe the MO PZeros are ‘run flat lite’
can anyone confirm?
Looking at MO1 PS4S. Are these also ‘run flat lite’?
From reading it seems like they can’t be called true run flats but are engineered to get you somewhere slowly.
I have a reasonable quote from my dealer. I could likely save a couple hundred with Indy and Tire Rack. The MB Road Hazard program seems to have some value and I’m not crazy about adding spare + tools unless I’m taking a more serious road trip.
Thanks in advance for any insights/recommendations. First time down this path with this car.
Cheers!
I was trying to sort through it online and found this on Tire Rack:
"Tires branded with MOExtended or MOE on their sidewalls identify them as being specifically tuned for Mercedes-Benz vehicles. The Extended portion of the name identifies they feature run-flat-like tire characteristics by offering temporary extended mobility. However, since they don't meet all of the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) run-flat tire operating limits under all permitted vehicle loads, they cannot be branded as run-flat tires."
"...MOExtended tires are designed to provide temporary extended mobility on a fully loaded vehicle for up to 20 miles (30 km) and on a lightly loaded vehicle of up to 50 miles (80 km) after the vehicle's tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) alerts the driver of significant tire pressure loss."
It's possible I totally misunderstood. I made up Run Flat Lite as a descriptor based on above.
Guessing in the event of pressure loss I'll need to get out the TireFit kit.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
