Battery Charging
Why sit at idle engine speed which is barely enough to charge the battery but I guess they don't want the car to run on battery power until it is sucked dry on the road.
But still the alternator is doing its job charging while it's the battery not accepting it.
I thought this was odd the day after a 900 mi. road trip without any issues.
After a few starts and stops the message keeps coming on even with the charge voltage being 14.8 volts at the battery terminals..
It's hard to believe that the battery has failed after only 18 months.
I never have my car in the Eco mode while in comfort setting or any other setting, the last thing I want is to have the car constantly restarting over and over while in traffic.
Too much wear and tear on the starter and discharge of the battery to justify the slightest decrease in fuel consumption to make any real sense..
Actually, the starter has been engineered to deal with the many tiny busts of start-up torque, so it should have an adequate life. Because injection and firing starts with the cylinder at TDC, the starter has very little work to do.
Why sit at idle engine speed which is barely enough to charge the battery but I guess they don't want the car to run on battery power until it is sucked dry on the road.
But still the alternator is doing its job charging while it's the battery not accepting it.
Why sit at idle engine speed which is barely enough to charge the battery but I guess they don't want the car to run on battery power until it is sucked dry on the road.
But still the alternator is doing its job charging while it's the battery not accepting it.

The dealership wants to slow trickle charge the battery since in is not trowing codes now, I told them to just replace it. If a fast 300 mi. drive didn't top off the battery a slow trickle charge isn't gonna do squat.
The last thing I want is to have it fail far from cell service and a long flatbed tow far from home.





The dealership wants to slow trickle charge the battery since in is not trowing codes now, I told them to just replace it. If a fast 300 mi. drive didn't top off the battery a slow trickle charge isn't gonna do squat.
The last thing I want is to have it fail far from cell service and a long flatbed tow far from home.
Did a euro delivery on a baby C117 in 2014. That oem Varta agm died at 24 months, despite the ctek treatment when parked at home.
The warranty replacement battery died at 48 months ... a few days past warranty but they did a courtesy replacement. That battery
also had the ctek connected when parked. And the ctek is a good one with thermal compensation and a proper agm mode, etc etc.
Luckily both times I was stopped at a gas station!!
Interesting tid bit is replacement batteries have - you guessed it - a 24 month warranty period.
Guess they are not making them like they used to.
Quality went down with these new AGM batteries, as evidenced by all these failures during the summer. Ronin was cruising in warm CA weather!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
When it does charge the battery then it goes up to >14V and sometimes it spikes to >15V momentarily.
On one short trip it hovered around 12.5V and that's it, good grief.
I get the gas mileage improvement thing, and not overcharging the battery, but with the systems drain on these cars nowadays maybe the charging system intelligence needs a little help
I would have bought a new battery even if it passed the MB test.
The last thing I would want is to drive into the canyons with the thought of having the battery fail only to prove a point that it needed to be replaced the first time..
I would have bought a new battery even if it passed the MB test.
The last thing I would want is to drive into the canyons with the thought of having the battery fail only to prove a point that it needed to be replaced the first time..
for my two gas station incidents it was not funny ... stop / get gas / turn key / trunk pops open / battery at ~10v
of course both times it was right after a bunch of short trips
so now my ctek is on duty every time the car is in the garage
Just my observations :-)
Have you tried CTEK charger?
I will appreciate your help. Thank you.




For a battery tender, you just need a 12V one. The amps is how much current and how fast it can charge the battery. The 12V 4.3A Ctek model linked in this thread will work. Just connect the black terminal to the bronze colored ground bolt on the car body under the hood, and the red terminal to the positive terminal under the red sliding cover under the hood, no need to connect it directly to the battery.
I will have the battery replaced asap but i want to keep a charger as i may need it again.
Which brand of battery do you recommend? and Type (AGM or other)?
Thank you. Wish you a very happy new year.
Dinyar
I will have the battery replaced asap but i want to keep a charger as i may need it again.
Which brand of battery do you recommend? and Type (AGM or other)?
Thank you. Wish you a very happy new year.
Dinyar
As the first step recommend getting the charger: any of CTEK 12V car chargers will work fine. I would pick one of the first two listed here:
https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-char...4v/car-charger
charger comes with instructions on how to connect and charge
I would not rush with ordering the battery before charging ->> use Recond mode.
speaking from experience: four years ago battery on my daughters BMW seemed to have reached end of life. Did not want to spend $400+ for new AGM battery and programming, before trying to save it.
CTEK charger reconditioned the battery and it worked fine till recently. The original Battery was replaced after 10 years!
Hope this helps.



