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Battery Charging

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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 03:57 PM
  #26  
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I thought it odd that the message said to stop driving immediately and let the engine run.
Why sit at idle engine speed which is barely enough to charge the battery but I guess they don't want the car to run on battery power until it is sucked dry on the road.
But still the alternator is doing its job charging while it's the battery not accepting it.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 03:59 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ronin amg
I've just dropped off my wagon at the Mercedes dealer for the battery warning message telling me to stop the car and let it idle in place due to the battery being under charged.

I thought this was odd the day after a 900 mi. road trip without any issues.

After a few starts and stops the message keeps coming on even with the charge voltage being 14.8 volts at the battery terminals..

It's hard to believe that the battery has failed after only 18 months.

I never have my car in the Eco mode while in comfort setting or any other setting, the last thing I want is to have the car constantly restarting over and over while in traffic.

Too much wear and tear on the starter and discharge of the battery to justify the slightest decrease in fuel consumption to make any real sense..
Sounds like maybe the monitor is registering a false alarm.

Actually, the starter has been engineered to deal with the many tiny busts of start-up torque, so it should have an adequate life. Because injection and firing starts with the cylinder at TDC, the starter has very little work to do.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 04:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ronin amg
I thought it odd that the message said to stop driving immediately and let the engine run.
Why sit at idle engine speed which is barely enough to charge the battery but I guess they don't want the car to run on battery power until it is sucked dry on the road.
But still the alternator is doing its job charging while it's the battery not accepting it.
That's why I think it's a false alarm (faulty monitor). That message means that the battery is so low that even idling will improve its charge. The other possibility is that there really is a bad cell and under load the voltage drops a lot. I guess the other other possibility is a faulty voltage convertor aka "auxiliary battery", which is really neither. It's a bank of capacitors used as a secondary voltage store. If it fails, I imagine the monitor could get confused.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 04:08 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ronin amg
I thought it odd that the message said to stop driving immediately and let the engine run.
Why sit at idle engine speed which is barely enough to charge the battery but I guess they don't want the car to run on battery power until it is sucked dry on the road.
But still the alternator is doing its job charging while it's the battery not accepting it.
Simple answer: battery got tired from spirited driving in the canyons and needs a break!
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 05:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 6G Schnell
Simple answer: battery got tired from spirited driving in the canyons and needs a break!
But the last 300 mi. of my road trip were on a straight hwy with a nice 85 mph average on the way back to LA.

The dealership wants to slow trickle charge the battery since in is not trowing codes now, I told them to just replace it. If a fast 300 mi. drive didn't top off the battery a slow trickle charge isn't gonna do squat.
The last thing I want is to have it fail far from cell service and a long flatbed tow far from home.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 07:28 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ronin amg
But the last 300 mi. of my road trip were on a straight hwy with a nice 85 mph average on the way back to LA.

The dealership wants to slow trickle charge the battery since in is not trowing codes now, I told them to just replace it. If a fast 300 mi. drive didn't top off the battery a slow trickle charge isn't gonna do squat.
The last thing I want is to have it fail far from cell service and a long flatbed tow far from home.
My battery failed at 18 months. The first indication was that the ECO start would not work even after a long drive. When I brought it into the shop for service, the battery tested ok, but the ECO still would not come one. I drove home and connected it to my MB trickle charger which was not able to get the charge above 50%. However, I could hear the battery boiling. I returned to the shop and the battery now tested bad so it was replaced. These are AGM batteries which should be good for at least 4 years of service. I've now heard of at least 5 failures on E63S in the past several months. Perhaps a bad run.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 08:59 PM
  #32  
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Speaking of bad batteries ... thought I'd chime in.
Did a euro delivery on a baby C117 in 2014. That oem Varta agm died at 24 months, despite the ctek treatment when parked at home.
The warranty replacement battery died at 48 months ... a few days past warranty but they did a courtesy replacement. That battery
also had the ctek connected when parked. And the ctek is a good one with thermal compensation and a proper agm mode, etc etc.
Luckily both times I was stopped at a gas station!!
Interesting tid bit is replacement batteries have - you guessed it - a 24 month warranty period.
Guess they are not making them like they used to.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 09:07 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by HBerman
My battery failed at 18 months. The first indication was that the ECO start would not work even after a long drive. When I brought it into the shop for service, the battery tested ok, but the ECO still would not come one. I drove home and connected it to my MB trickle charger which was not able to get the charge above 50%. However, I could hear the battery boiling. I returned to the shop and the battery now tested bad so it was replaced. These are AGM batteries which should be good for at least 4 years of service. I've now heard of at least 5 failures on E63S in the past several months. Perhaps a bad run.
Exactly. There were no complaints on W212 forum. Only few small auxiliary batteries had issues. Sold W212 after five years+ with the original battery, in spite of short commute. Had to charge it only once in the winter which makes sense: low temp and higher battery drain.

Quality went down with these new AGM batteries, as evidenced by all these failures during the summer. Ronin was cruising in warm CA weather!



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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 03:43 AM
  #34  
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FYI ... watching the voltage data during drives shows the charging system works when it "can" -- typically when the engine is not under load.
When it does charge the battery then it goes up to >14V and sometimes it spikes to >15V momentarily.
On one short trip it hovered around 12.5V and that's it, good grief.
I get the gas mileage improvement thing, and not overcharging the battery, but with the systems drain on these cars nowadays maybe the charging system intelligence needs a little help
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 10:38 AM
  #35  
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New battery installed at the dealership under warrantee, I'm back to being a happy camper once again..
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 11:05 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ronin amg
New battery installed at the dealership under warrantee, I'm back to being a happy camper once again..
Great news, thanks for the update!
I'll keep watching state of my battery....
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 02:22 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ronin amg
New battery installed at the dealership under warrantee, I'm back to being a happy camper once again..
Did they happen to give you a full test report on the charging system?
just curious 😋
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 03:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by jmc1
Did they happen to give you a full test report on the charging system?
just curious 😋
I didn't ask for one but they did the long trickle charge a few times and failed the battery.

I would have bought a new battery even if it passed the MB test.
The last thing I would want is to drive into the canyons with the thought of having the battery fail only to prove a point that it needed to be replaced the first time..
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 03:21 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ronin amg
I didn't ask for one but they did the long trickle charge a few times and failed the battery.

I would have bought a new battery even if it passed the MB test.
The last thing I would want is to drive into the canyons with the thought of having the battery fail only to prove a point that it needed to be replaced the first time..
yeah dont blame ya
for my two gas station incidents it was not funny ... stop / get gas / turn key / trunk pops open / battery at ~10v
of course both times it was right after a bunch of short trips
so now my ctek is on duty every time the car is in the garage
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 05:01 PM
  #40  
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Anybody know if a standard 12V "Battery Tender" device is sufficient to trickle charge our batteries? Or does it need a special 48V trickle charger?
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 05:07 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by E63Wagen
Anybody know if a standard 12V "Battery Tender" device is sufficient to trickle charge our batteries? Or does it need a special 48V trickle charger?
No car uses a 48V charger! An E63S does not have a 48V battery. An E53 does, but it's charged internally and you only charge its 12V battery. You need an AGM 12V charger, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CD44RQO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CD44RQO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 05:27 PM
  #42  
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I have multiple MXS 5.0 units ... for the $$ they are outstanding and work much better than the previous 4.3 units in terms of trickle phase power draw and actual battery maintenance capabilities
Just my observations :-)
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 05:44 PM
  #43  
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Agreed, highly recommend the MXS 5.0 version that I linked previously, along with whoover. Lent it to a friend this weekend who has the older 4.3 version and he said at the very least, it charged a bit faster than the old version. Pricing is pretty much comparable.
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 05:50 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Pikapan
Agreed, highly recommend the MXS 5.0 version that I linked previously, along with whoover. Lent it to a friend this weekend who has the older 4.3 version and he said at the very least, it charged a bit faster than the old version. Pricing is pretty much comparable.
Does anybody know what is our battery capacity?
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 08:18 PM
  #45  
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E63 battery issues

Originally Posted by HBerman
I had my 2018 E63S into the dealer several weeks ago with the complaint that the ECO start function was not working. The tech checked the battery and pronounced it good. He then went on to document that the problem was the a/c temp not being achieved which was total BS. I purchased the MB charger and hooked it up that evening. The charger was unable to bring the battery to a full charge and could only get it to 50%. The ECO still would not work after 24hours on the charger. Additionally I could hear the battery boiling. I took it back to the shop and demanded that the battery be changed out. This time the tester showed the battery to be bad and it was replaced. The ECO start was restored even though the battery was not fully charged. I placed the battery on the charger and it was fully charged in 12 hours. My observation from all of this was that the original battery had a bad cell, but which somehow passed the battery test as good. I don't drive the car more than 25 miles a day and only every 3 days. The ECO start continues to function after the car is driven about 5 minutes from start. So, having a fully charged battery is not a requirement for proper functioning. Oh, and when I place the battery on the charger, I do not hear any boiling sounds from the battery during the charging cycle.
I know this may seem like a silly question but I have a 2019 e63 as well. Where are you connecting the battery charger. I have tried several brands at the ports in the engine compartment but have not achieved a successful trickle charge with any of them. Do I need to go directly to the battery itself? Where is it located? I appreciate the help.
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 09:43 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Gojirra77
I know this may seem like a silly question but I have a 2019 e63 as well. Where are you connecting the battery charger. I have tried several brands at the ports in the engine compartment but have not achieved a successful trickle charge with any of them. Do I need to go directly to the battery itself? Where is it located? I appreciate the help.
Terminals are in the engine compartment: positive under the red plastic cover and negative is shock absorber nut close by.
Have you tried CTEK charger?
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 09:18 PM
  #47  
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Need a Battery Charger

Hello friends, I am not knowledgeable in car repairs, including battery chargers. For the last one month my 2017 mb glc300 lights up a notice to pull over and let the car run idle for 15 minutes…. I drive about 5-6k per year. I am looking for a reliable battery charger. Reading all the comments i will go with CTek but don’t know which model No. and Ah?
I will appreciate your help. Thank you.
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 10:00 PM
  #48  
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Sounds like you need a new battery, it's at about the age where it is dying. I would check that first. Same thing happened to me recently on my regularly driven 2018 GLC43 (purchased in Fall 2017), replaced the battery and that fixed the low battery message that popped up twice.

For a battery tender, you just need a 12V one. The amps is how much current and how fast it can charge the battery. The 12V 4.3A Ctek model linked in this thread will work. Just connect the black terminal to the bronze colored ground bolt on the car body under the hood, and the red terminal to the positive terminal under the red sliding cover under the hood, no need to connect it directly to the battery.
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 10:20 PM
  #49  
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Need a battery charger for 2017 MB GLC300

Thank you very much for a quick reply. Appreciate it. I will get the battery charger you have mentioned. I am confused about connecting charger clamps. Thank you for explaining how to connect the clamps.
I will have the battery replaced asap but i want to keep a charger as i may need it again.
Which brand of battery do you recommend? and Type (AGM or other)?
Thank you. Wish you a very happy new year.
Dinyar
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 12:13 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Dinyar
Thank you very much for a quick reply. Appreciate it. I will get the battery charger you have mentioned. I am confused about connecting charger clamps. Thank you for explaining how to connect the clamps.
I will have the battery replaced asap but i want to keep a charger as i may need it again.
Which brand of battery do you recommend? and Type (AGM or other)?
Thank you. Wish you a very happy new year.
Dinyar
The issue is car is not driven enough to keep battery charged.
As the first step recommend getting the charger: any of CTEK 12V car chargers will work fine. I would pick one of the first two listed here:
https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-char...4v/car-charger
charger comes with instructions on how to connect and charge

I would not rush with ordering the battery before charging ->> use Recond mode.

speaking from experience: four years ago battery on my daughters BMW seemed to have reached end of life. Did not want to spend $400+ for new AGM battery and programming, before trying to save it.
CTEK charger reconditioned the battery and it worked fine till recently. The original Battery was replaced after 10 years!


Hope this helps.
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