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Battery Charging

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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 08:34 AM
  #51  
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I just replaced my OEM battery with one from my local gas station (Interstate).... absolutely no reason to waste money on OEM for this.. My car (2018) has approximately 33K on it.
You should only expect to get 3-4 years tops on a battery. Also, your car is not really giving much of a charge below 45mph. So if you simply running around town and the autostop is kicking in at every light.. you definitely are not giving the best treatment to the battery. My car has gone dead twice.. so I knew it was toast.

This time around I put a charger plug on the battery (it is on the passenger side of the engine bay under the plastic) and the pig tail sits just beside the jumping post.
This is the one of the best chargers out there as it will cycle your battery over night and will not ruin the battery like most "simple" chargers such as cheaper battery tenders. I've been using these on my motorcycles for years and it has kept me from having to change those batteries that are notorious for going bad.
XC100-P | Pulse Tech 12v 2.5 Amp Battery Charger & Restorer (batterystuff.com) they also make multi-bank versions allowing me to keep both the AMG and my 997.2 Turbo up to snuff.
Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 10:09 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by cyclrder
I just replaced my OEM battery with one from my local gas station (Interstate).... absolutely no reason to waste money on OEM for this.. My car (2018) has approximately 33K on it.
You should only expect to get 3-4 years tops on a battery. Also, your car is not really giving much of a charge below 45mph. So if you simply running around town and the autostop is kicking in at every light.. you definitely are not giving the best treatment to the battery. My car has gone dead twice.. so I knew it was toast.

This time around I put a charger plug on the battery (it is on the passenger side of the engine bay under the plastic) and the pig tail sits just beside the jumping post.
This is the one of the best chargers out there as it will cycle your battery over night and will not ruin the battery like most "simple" chargers such as cheaper battery tenders. I've been using these on my motorcycles for years and it has kept me from having to change those batteries that are notorious for going bad.
XC100-P | Pulse Tech 12v 2.5 Amp Battery Charger & Restorer (batterystuff.com) they also make multi-bank versions allowing me to keep both the AMG and my 997.2 Turbo up to snuff.
Hope this helps.
I used to have one of those and it worked fine but I like my CTEKs better. For the same price, the MXS 5.0 does 4.3amps vs 2.5 and cycles, reconditions, and does AGMs. Multi-bank options as well.

https://smartercharger.com/collectio...s/ctek-mxs-5-0
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 11:59 AM
  #53  
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MB 2017 GLC 300 Battery low

Originally Posted by 6G Schnell
The issue is car is not driven enough to keep battery charged.
As the first step recommend getting the charger: any of CTEK 12V car chargers will work fine. I would pick one of the first two listed here:
https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-char...4v/car-charger
charger comes with instructions on how to connect and charge

I would not rush with ordering the battery before charging ->> use Recond mode.

speaking from experience: four years ago battery on my daughters BMW seemed to have reached end of life. Did not want to spend $400+ for new AGM battery and programming, before trying to save it.
CTEK charger reconditioned the battery and it worked fine till recently. The original Battery was replaced after 10 years!


Hope this helps.


Thank you very much 6G Schnell, i appreciate your help. I am in USA- i found CT5 Time to Go on Amazon but not CTS ONE. So, i will have to get CT5 Time To Go. Thank you.

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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 09:00 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by bullmrkt
I used to have one of those and it worked fine but I like my CTEKs better. For the same price, the MXS 5.0 does 4.3amps vs 2.5 and cycles, reconditions, and does AGMs. Multi-bank options as well.

https://smartercharger.com/collectio...s/ctek-mxs-5-0

its kinda like saying whose antibodies are better... at the end of the day a charged battery is a charged battery. And honestly, lower amps are much better for long term maintenance.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 09:41 AM
  #55  
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Lower smps are better for maintenance of a battery

Originally Posted by cyclrder
its kinda like saying whose antibodies are better... at the end of the day a charged battery is a charged battery. And honestly, lower amps are much better for long term maintenance.
Thank you.
It is good to know that lower amps are better for maintenance. Good info.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 10:50 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by cyclrder
its kinda like saying whose antibodies are better... at the end of the day a charged battery is a charged battery. And honestly, lower amps are much better for long-term maintenance.
I've been using the Mercedes branded CTEK charger for a number of years to maintain the battery when my driving patterns are less than normal. No bells and whistles on the charger, just 5 lights to green. If the battery goes bad, I can reliably state that I've been using the recommended equipment to maintain the charge (and not overcharge). Just my 3 cents here.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 12:37 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by cyclrder
its kinda like saying whose antibodies are better... at the end of the day a charged battery is a charged battery. And honestly, lower amps are much better for long term maintenance.
There's a little more to it than that. The quoted amperage rate is the maximum available under certain conditions. The charger evaluates the the condition of the battery and applies the appropriate charging program and rate, up to 4.3amps (or 2.5amp in the extremes case). Once it's gone through the whole cycle it drops back to a pulsing trickle rate. There's a motorcycle mode for smaller batteries as well, which knocks back the charge rate even further.

https://smartercharger.com/pages/8-s...marter-process


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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 12:52 PM
  #58  
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Depends on battery technology. Old school lead plate is different from AGM, and LiFePO4, etc.

I don't think you want to be trying to desulphate Lithium technology batteries. I have a variety of different battery types on my cars and motorcycles so I have a few different chargers laying about, an older Battery Tender, a new one that supports Lithium types, and an Optima that supports both regular lead acid and AGMs.

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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 01:11 PM
  #59  
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Correct, you have to use a charger designed for whatever battery chemistry you're attempting to charge, but the chargers discussed above are appropriate for our cars. Oh, and read the manual.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 08:08 PM
  #60  
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8 Steps explained

Originally Posted by bullmrkt
There's a little more to it than that. The quoted amperage rate is the maximum available under certain conditions. The charger evaluates the the condition of the battery and applies the appropriate charging program and rate, up to 4.3amps (or 2.5amp in the extremes case). Once it's gone through the whole cycle it drops back to a pulsing trickle rate. There's a motorcycle mode for smaller batteries as well, which knocks back the charge rate even further.

https://smartercharger.com/pages/8-s...marter-process

.


Thank you for the 8 Steps above. I will print it and keep it with the charger. Thanks to all of you for taking your time to write. It is very valuable for someone like me who does mot know anything but very eager to learn and know more. In the last two days since i joined this link i have learned so much. A real big Thank You to all.
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Old Jan 8, 2022 | 11:14 AM
  #61  
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Collected my wagon on the 21st of December. Went to Fl. For Christmas, back home to the Tundra to plate and register the car. And intend to return south for the season. I put the wagon on a trickle charger as I probably won’t be back until May. Should the car be locked or not? As I remember in the past, not locking my other cars. Really would like to take the car south, but for now I’ll have to park it.
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Old Jan 8, 2022 | 05:17 PM
  #62  
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It does not matter much. In my case, I don’t lock it because it’s inside my garage.
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Old Jan 8, 2022 | 06:11 PM
  #63  
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No need to lock while on the charger.
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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 11:25 AM
  #64  
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Great info in this thread. I was lazy and went to Mercedes and purchased the trickle charger they have. Wasn't cheap, but has been great from a consumer standpoint. Has a charge level indicator and then I suppose goes into trickle-mode once fully charged. When the cold months roll around, I get the text messages from my car about the 12v starter battery being low. Not a daily driver so I definitely need the charger.

Cheers
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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 24Hours
Great info in this thread. I was lazy and went to Mercedes and purchased the trickle charger they have. Wasn't cheap, but has been great from a consumer standpoint. Has a charge level indicator and then I suppose goes into trickle-mode once fully charged. When the cold months roll around, I get the text messages from my car about the 12v starter battery being low. Not a daily driver so I definitely need the charger.

Cheers
I've been using the same MB charger for 3 years now. When a new charger is certified by them I'll consider getting it replaced.
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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 05:03 PM
  #66  
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My frequent sub-2mile trips usually get my battery to throw a "Critical Charge" warning after about a month or two of driving with no trickle charger. My service advisor advised me that if I placed my battery on a trickle charger before the service then the battery would very likely pass their tests and thus would not qualify for a warranty replacement. So, I purposefully stopped using my CTEK a month or two before my 2 year service. I took my car in for my 2 year/B service when it was in a state of "critical charge" and I got a brand new battery under warranty.

I suggest everyone who is still under warranty (and whose use case produces critical charge warnings from time to time) to take their car to the dealer for a free battery.




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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 11:29 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by b0rderman
My frequent sub-2mile trips usually get my battery to throw a "Critical Charge" warning after about a month or two of driving with no trickle charger. My service advisor advised me that if I placed my battery on a trickle charger before the service then the battery would very likely pass their tests and thus would not qualify for a warranty replacement. So, I purposefully stopped using my CTEK a month or two before my 2 year service. I took my car in for my 2 year/B service when it was in a state of "critical charge" and I got a brand new battery under warranty.

I suggest everyone who is still under warranty (and whose use case produces critical charge warnings from time to time) to take their car to the dealer for a free battery.
Yup, I too made this realization after selling my 2020. Only had it a year but already noticed that I had to keep it on the charger if it sat for more than 5 days or so, suspected a bum battery. Then I sold it and it sat on the dealers lot for a bit, during which time I received the low battery warnings on my phone. It was always easier for me to just plug it in to my charger waiting in the garage than hassle with the dealer, but then it appeared healthy when I did visit the dealer. So yeah, good move. 👍🏻
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Old Jan 10, 2022 | 11:44 PM
  #68  
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If you feel that MB "certification" matters, go with it. But they OEM a CTEK and double the price. The fact is that the CTEK they sell is ancient. A later model CTEK, like the following, has better technology (and charging programs) is even safer and is cheaper. Notice how similar they look

Amazon Amazon
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