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I am in Canada and my E63 with about 40,000km on the clock (now) will be needing new front & rear brakes replacement (rotors, pads and sensor) in about 3-4 months time (as I still have about 25% life left). I sent an email to my MB dealer and they quoted me $5,000 in parts + $750 in labor (approx. 4.25 hrs) = $5,750 + taxes = $6,500 total costs. Mind you, I do not even have carbon ceramic brakes. LOL.
I looked online on what US genuine mb brake parts are selling for, the total cost for parts alone came to $3,500 US.
Has anyone of you guys in the US pay nearly $4,000 or more for your front & rear brakes ?
Last edited by bobblehead; 10-17-2019 at 06:52 PM.
Still have 25% life left on the pads and rotors. So, I prjoect I could go to around 50-55,000km (around 35,000 miles) with about 10% life left before it really needs to be changed.
I don’t drive my car very hard but 90+% daily driving is local roads, thus lots of stop and go.
Still have 25% life left on the pads and rotors. So, I prjoect I could go to around 50-55,000km (around 35,000 miles) with about 10% life left before it really needs to be changed.
I don’t drive my car very hard but 90+% daily driving is local roads, thus lots of stop and go.
I would take dealers word with a grain of salt!
Have similar usage model, service folks showing me how my front rotors are coming to an end (based on holes).
However, more than 15k miles later, I traded in the car with the original rotors .....
Another example is from last December when dealer claimed my daughter's car needs new battery. Run the full CTEK cycle instead, and car still starts/runs fine...
My own mechanic also said about the same thing as the dealer (about 25-30% left) when I did my oil change last month. My mechanic thinks I can go to around 60,000km with probably 5% left. Regardless, I would still change them out next Spring for safety sake.
I will just buy the parts online and have my mechanic do the job, probably saves me $1,000 vs doing it at dealer
Last edited by bobblehead; 10-17-2019 at 06:12 PM.
My own mechanic also said about the same thing as the dealer (about 25-30% left) when I did my oil change last month. My mechanic thinks I can go to around 60,000km with probably 5% left. Regardless, I would still change them out next Spring for safety sake.
I will just buy the parts online and have my mechanic do the job, probably saves me $1,000 vs doing it at dealer
Agree, the best way to go.
Besides, can get low dust pads, instead OEM....
Still have 25% life left on the pads and rotors. So, I prjoect I could go to around 50-55,000km (around 35,000 miles) with about 10% life left before it really needs to be changed.
I don’t drive my car very hard but 90+% daily driving is local roads, thus lots of stop and go.
I'd ask to see how the rotors miked. What's the thickness of each and what's the replace spec? If they haven't measured the rotors' thicknesses, you're being had.
My car is due for the second B service. Waiting till I get back from some upcoming travel so won't get it in until the end of next month. Will be interested to see what they say for my CCBs.
Don't spend as much time canyon carving as Ronin, but I do notice my ESP light flickering on a lot even in Sport+ mode so I ended up setting my individual mode to include Sport Handling to cut down on ESP intervention. ESP activating frequently puts wear on the rear pads.
Will be curious to see how much rear pad life I have left. Car will have about 14,000 miles on it when I take it in.
I'd ask to see how the rotors miked. What's the thickness of each and what's the replace spec? If they haven't measured the rotors' thicknesses, you're being had.
Point taken.
I only asked the dealer and my mechanic for visual assessment (without actual measurements). Whenever I do brakes replacement, I always do rotors, pads and sensors.
according to my mechanic, the wear for all brakes is fairly uniformed and nothing out of the ordinary.
Last edited by bobblehead; 10-17-2019 at 06:48 PM.
'19 AMG E53 Cpe, '23 EQS 580 SUV, '88 560SL, '35 Ford 5w coupe, '53 MGTD and others
I don't know about the most recent cars, but I virtually never replace rotors. As mentioned above, as long as they're above the minimum thickness which should be cast into the rotors just change the pads.
My car is due for the second B service. Waiting till I get back from some upcoming travel so won't get it in until the end of next month. Will be interested to see what they say for my CCBs.
Don't spend as much time canyon carving as Ronin, but I do notice my ESP light flickering on a lot even in Sport+ mode so I ended up setting my individual mode to include Sport Handling to cut down on ESP intervention. ESP activating frequently puts wear on the rear pads.
Will be curious to see how much rear pad life I have left. Car will have about 14,000 miles on it when I take it in.
I have completed service B a few months ago and the dealer told me front pads have 5mm left and rear's are about 4mm. When I push the car hard I always turn ESP off. Iron brakes btw
Anyway Rotors are good and I'm going to replace pads and sensors myself since it's good time spending for me and also will save me over $700
I am in Canada and my E63 with about 40,000km on the clock (now) will be needing new front & rear brakes replacement (rotors, pads and sensor) in about 3-4 months time (as I still have about 25% life left). I sent an email to my MB dealer and they quoted me $5,000 in parts + $750 in labor (approx. 4.25 hrs) = $5,750 + taxes = $6,500 total costs. Mind you, I do not even have carbon ceramic brakes. LOL.
I looked online on what US genuine mb brake parts are selling for, the total cost for parts alone came to $3,500 US.
Has anyone of you guys in the US pay nearly $4,000 or more for your front & rear brakes ?
Full replacement of CCB would be over $25k (USD)...
Dealers tend to just look at pad thickness and say swap everything once you get close to 2mm lad material left. I have never experienced a dealer who voluntarily measured rotor thickness. The default answer is toss the rotors once pads wear out. It's absurd. Have them give you the proper rotor measurements and you'll see. Disregard the "we/MB recommend replacing rotors with pads" crap.
My car is due for the second B service. Waiting till I get back from some upcoming travel so won't get it in until the end of next month. Will be interested to see what they say for my CCBs.
Don't spend as much time canyon carving as Ronin, but I do notice my ESP light flickering on a lot even in Sport+ mode so I ended up setting my individual mode to include Sport Handling to cut down on ESP intervention. ESP activating frequently puts wear on the rear pads.
Will be curious to see how much rear pad life I have left. Car will have about 14,000 miles on it when I take it in.
Best way to save wear on CCB rotors is to change pads when you get to 50% of pad material left. Very reasonable cost and smart in the long run.
For a real price shock, after having our tires replaced for the winter I noticed that one of our CCB rotors was damaged I always take pics of the wheels before service as I had a wheel curbed during service a few years back and the damage wasn't visible before.
This was very concerning as brakes are considered a consumable component but am happy to report that MB covered it immediately (SA said it rarely saw MB covering a part so quickly without any back/forth). $4100 for 1 rotor installed! Just the rotor. Car has $14k miles...
You can absolutely replace pads a couple of times before rotors.
I did it and will continue to do it on all my cars that I track. As soon as my pads (usually fronts first) get down to around 50% I pull the pads and replace them without issue. I've done this many times over the years. Most recently I replaced all 4 corners of my GTC a few months ago without issue.
In Canada, one front carbon ceramic rotor costs $7700 Cdn (equiv. $5850 US) alone at the dealer (not including taxes and installed labor on top)
Makes the $9k CCB brake option an absolute bargain
Of course, I was overly optimistic that things would be done right. Turns out that the pads may some some contaminants as they started to mark the brand-new rotor. New pads tomorrow
Wolfman, the damage seems like a wheel hit the face of the rotor. That's why I was asking who changed to snows for you and also surprise that they covered it. Really abnormal to have a localized chunk like that even if there was some issue in the construction (which itself is rare). Congrats again on getting it taken care of for you.
Wolfman, the damage seems like a wheel hit the face of the rotor. That's why I was asking who changed to snows for you and also surprise that they covered it. Really abnormal to have a localized chunk like that even if there was some issue in the construction (which itself is rare). Congrats again on getting it taken care of for you.
Tire change was at the dealer since they matched tire rack prices. I was thinking it could have been a tool but am happy to accept that it was a defective rotor and their goodwill. Certainly helpful at $4100 (no labor)
10-17-2019, 02:12 PM
I always take pics of the wheels before service as I had a wheel curbed during service a few years back and the damage wasn't visible before.
