Mercedes E63s W213 oil change
#27
'21 E63 wagon
Can you REALLY reset the message with steering wheel buttons?!! The youtube does not work for me.
A few weeks ago I changed the engine oil myself: 1 year old, under 2,900 miles. I would like to reset the message.
A few weeks ago I changed the engine oil myself: 1 year old, under 2,900 miles. I would like to reset the message.
#29
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 15,160
Likes: 2,938
From: Toronto, Canada
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Obviously you are not trying to replace brake pads but getting into the workshop menu is what you are struggling so hopefully their method helps you out.
#30
Resetting Service A message from cluster
Seems like a common issue with the MY21 E-Class All Terrain, try this method posted by forum member vinnybenz: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...or-replac.docx
Obviously you are not trying to replace brake pads but getting into the workshop menu is what you are struggling so hopefully their method helps you out.
Obviously you are not trying to replace brake pads but getting into the workshop menu is what you are struggling so hopefully their method helps you out.
Perhaps it is operator error, but I am usually capable of doing sophisticated stuff! I am just trying to clear the "Service A" message on my dash.
#31
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 15,160
Likes: 2,938
From: Toronto, Canada
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
I appreciate the link, but it does not work on my '21 E63 Wagon. And the "so what" of what is in the attached is: "...hold down the Home button for 5 seconds, release, and then hold down the OK (4arrow) button for at least 20 seconds. Hopefully you will see the ‘Workshop Tools’ menu. If not, then try try again, maybe holding the OK button even longer...."
Perhaps it is operator error, but I am usually capable of doing sophisticated stuff! I am just trying to clear the "Service A" message on my dash.
Perhaps it is operator error, but I am usually capable of doing sophisticated stuff! I am just trying to clear the "Service A" message on my dash.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...20-p-0046e.pdf
#32
Can you guys confirm is removal of small plug from oil filter is necessary ? I do understand that it makes oil filter change less messy but is it required to remove small plug from oil filter housing ? I did not remove it , first time I did my oil change and took it out together with oil filter housing .
some said that this plug has magnet on it that supposed to catch metal shaving , but MB oil change document does not call for removal of small plug from the filter housing . Thanks
also switched to Liqui Molly 5-40
some said that this plug has magnet on it that supposed to catch metal shaving , but MB oil change document does not call for removal of small plug from the filter housing . Thanks
also switched to Liqui Molly 5-40
#34
In that case, try the official Xentry Tips document they used which didn't work for them but might work for you, also, try placing the key in the marked spot where the cupholders are before proceeding as well as making sure you are on the trip screen before proceeding, showing your odometer.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...20-p-0046e.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...20-p-0046e.pdf
Can you guys confirm is removal of small plug from oil filter is necessary ? I do understand that it makes oil filter change less messy but is it required to remove small plug from oil filter housing ? I did not remove it , first time I did my oil change and took it out together with oil filter housing .
some said that this plug has magnet on it that supposed to catch metal shaving , but MB oil change document does not call for removal of small plug from the filter housing . Thanks
also switched to Liqui Molly 5-40
some said that this plug has magnet on it that supposed to catch metal shaving , but MB oil change document does not call for removal of small plug from the filter housing . Thanks
also switched to Liqui Molly 5-40
I did not see any metal shavings at the plug, so I cannot comment about the existence of a magnet. However, I would be extremely skeptical if there was a magnet there. These engines are made up of non-ferrous metals so a magnet would be useless. On a diff that maybe a different story. However, when I changed my front diff oil there was NO magnet on the drain either.
Last edited by Igooz; 07-20-2022 at 06:54 PM.
The following users liked this post:
kvirikadzed (07-20-2022)
#35
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 15,160
Likes: 2,938
From: Toronto, Canada
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
You're most welcome, I guess my advice would be to keep trying, it is definitely possible but requires patience according to forum member vinnybenz, you don't have to keep trying if you don't want to though : )
#36
OP has done a really nice job with his orignal post. There is nothing new to add, but, in case that you don't do your own basic service, do it, very easy. Just do it!
I did my first engine oil change at 15mo/3k miles. What drained was absolutely clean engine oil. I wanted to push it to 5k miles but it maybe 2 years plus before I get there. I did the first 2K miles in 2-3months and did the rear-diff oil change, and then only 1k mi the next 12 months.
I did not have to make ramps with the 4-post. The car is small and easy to get on a lift.
The only observation here is that the original O-Ring on oil filter was blue, but the MB replacements is Black. My wife has a new Cayenne GTS and her (new) O-ring was Black, but the replacement Porsche ring was Green?!
Hopefully, you all will get old and continue to work on your cars. I have "custom" Safety glasses with readers on top and bottom so that I can see looking down or up. None of my friends have ever seen these, so I am posting a picture of those of you that need readers to work on their cars...
I did my first engine oil change at 15mo/3k miles. What drained was absolutely clean engine oil. I wanted to push it to 5k miles but it maybe 2 years plus before I get there. I did the first 2K miles in 2-3months and did the rear-diff oil change, and then only 1k mi the next 12 months.
I did not have to make ramps with the 4-post. The car is small and easy to get on a lift.
The only observation here is that the original O-Ring on oil filter was blue, but the MB replacements is Black. My wife has a new Cayenne GTS and her (new) O-ring was Black, but the replacement Porsche ring was Green?!
Hopefully, you all will get old and continue to work on your cars. I have "custom" Safety glasses with readers on top and bottom so that I can see looking down or up. None of my friends have ever seen these, so I am posting a picture of those of you that need readers to work on their cars...
Last edited by Igooz; 09-04-2022 at 04:47 PM.
#37
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 635
Likes: 222
From: Los Angeles
2024 GLE63s, 2021 E63s, 2018 GLC43
Sure it's easy DIY job when you have a lift.
Next trick is figuring out how to reset the service indicator, seems to be a challenge.
Next trick is figuring out how to reset the service indicator, seems to be a challenge.
Last edited by taphil; 09-04-2022 at 04:43 PM.
#38
Great job on documentation of job.
hello,
this is my first DIY oil change for my 2018 e63s edition1 (previous oil changes were done at the dealer), i have reached 11,000km/6,875mi and 3 yrs, this will be my 3rd oil change (1st @ 3,500km/2,188mi and 1yr, 2nd @ 6,500km and 2yrs), i searched the web intensively for information on how to get this job done but could not find much, most of what i found was for c63's, i finally found a write up that helped me a lot:
DIY oil change and air filters - MBWorld.org Forums
thanks to our member LUCABRATSI i was able to get this job done.
before i got started on the oil change i built a couple of ramps with a low incline so that the front lip doesn't touch the ramps, most ramps on the market are to steep which will cause contact with the front bumper. the following links were very helpful in building the ramps:
Ultimate DIY wooden ramps - YouTube
www.oldokieworkshop.com/Car Ramps 2.html
tools used:
1- 13mm socket for removing underside safety guard cover.
2- 24mm socket for removing oil filter housing.
3- H8 hex socket for removing engine oil drain plug.
4- H10 hex socket for removing oil filter housing drain plug.
5- torque wrench that can handle 4Nm to 30Nm.
6- O-ring removal tool/pick.
parts:
1- oil filter 2781800009.
2- drain plug 1780140300.
3- oil filter housing drain plug 1771800110
4- 9 liters of oil, 0w40 or 5w40 (no other viscosity may be used with the AMG M177 engine) with MB-Approval 229.5. i used Motul 8100 x-cess 5w40 which is approved by Mercedes. there is a long list of oil manufacturers that meet the Mercedes approval, the following is a link to the Mercedes web site with all of the products that meet MB-Approval 229.5:
MB 229.5 - Multigrade service engine oils - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids (mercedes-benz.com)
now for the oil change procedure:
1- the oil temperature should be at 92C/198F for an oil valve to open in the oil system enabling all the oil to drain, i found this information in one of the forums but could not verify if it was part of the Mercedes service requirements. i went ahead and idled the car till it hit 92c.
2- remove underside safety guard cover/shield, the cover is bolted with10 13mm bolts, once the bolts are removed it will still hold in place, you need to slide the cover towards the back for it to drop down.
the 2 bolts marked with the side arrows are longer than the other bolts.
this is the bracket that holds the under shield from drooping after the bolts have been removed.
3- remove oil pan drain plug using a H8 hex socket, be prepared with a catch pan large enough to handle10 Liters of oil.
4- remove oil filter housing drain plug using a H10 hex socket, some more oil will drain from the oil filter housing.
5- remove oil filter housing using a 24mm socket.
6- remove and replace oil filter with new one.
7- remove and replace oil filter housing o-ring with new one (make sure to rub oil on new o-ring before installation).
8- reinstall oil filter housing, it needs to be tightened to min 25Nm. and max 30Nm. (the torque requirements are labeled on the oil filter housing 25+5Nm.).
9- reinstall oil filter housing plug, it needs to be tightened to min 5Nm. and max 7Nm. (the torque requirements are labeled on the oil filter housing 5+2Nm.). i would recommend replacing the plug with a new one or at least swap out the o-ring with a new o-ring, i used the same plug but will definitely replace next oil change.
10- reinstall oil pan plug, it needs to be tightened to a max of 4Nm. (the torque requirements are labeled on plug max 4Nm.). i would recommend replacing the plug with a new one or at least swap out the o-ring with a new o-ring, i used the same plug but will definitely replace next oil change.
11- clean any excessive oil that may have splattered.
12- add 9 Liters of oil.
13- check for any possible leaks.
14- replace underside safety guard cover.
15- start engine and roll vehicle off of ramps, to check oil level engine need to be running at operating temperature, hood must be closed and vehicle parked on level ground. go to the Mercedes service menu on the cluster screen, scroll to "engine oil level" using the the steering wheel left buttons. add oil if necessary. make sure you dont overfill, go with 1/2 Liter increments till you reach a reading as in below pic.
this is my first DIY oil change for my 2018 e63s edition1 (previous oil changes were done at the dealer), i have reached 11,000km/6,875mi and 3 yrs, this will be my 3rd oil change (1st @ 3,500km/2,188mi and 1yr, 2nd @ 6,500km and 2yrs), i searched the web intensively for information on how to get this job done but could not find much, most of what i found was for c63's, i finally found a write up that helped me a lot:
DIY oil change and air filters - MBWorld.org Forums
thanks to our member LUCABRATSI i was able to get this job done.
before i got started on the oil change i built a couple of ramps with a low incline so that the front lip doesn't touch the ramps, most ramps on the market are to steep which will cause contact with the front bumper. the following links were very helpful in building the ramps:
Ultimate DIY wooden ramps - YouTube
www.oldokieworkshop.com/Car Ramps 2.html
tools used:
1- 13mm socket for removing underside safety guard cover.
2- 24mm socket for removing oil filter housing.
3- H8 hex socket for removing engine oil drain plug.
4- H10 hex socket for removing oil filter housing drain plug.
5- torque wrench that can handle 4Nm to 30Nm.
6- O-ring removal tool/pick.
parts:
1- oil filter 2781800009.
2- drain plug 1780140300.
3- oil filter housing drain plug 1771800110
4- 9 liters of oil, 0w40 or 5w40 (no other viscosity may be used with the AMG M177 engine) with MB-Approval 229.5. i used Motul 8100 x-cess 5w40 which is approved by Mercedes. there is a long list of oil manufacturers that meet the Mercedes approval, the following is a link to the Mercedes web site with all of the products that meet MB-Approval 229.5:
MB 229.5 - Multigrade service engine oils - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids (mercedes-benz.com)
now for the oil change procedure:
1- the oil temperature should be at 92C/198F for an oil valve to open in the oil system enabling all the oil to drain, i found this information in one of the forums but could not verify if it was part of the Mercedes service requirements. i went ahead and idled the car till it hit 92c.
2- remove underside safety guard cover/shield, the cover is bolted with10 13mm bolts, once the bolts are removed it will still hold in place, you need to slide the cover towards the back for it to drop down.
the 2 bolts marked with the side arrows are longer than the other bolts.
this is the bracket that holds the under shield from drooping after the bolts have been removed.
3- remove oil pan drain plug using a H8 hex socket, be prepared with a catch pan large enough to handle10 Liters of oil.
4- remove oil filter housing drain plug using a H10 hex socket, some more oil will drain from the oil filter housing.
5- remove oil filter housing using a 24mm socket.
6- remove and replace oil filter with new one.
7- remove and replace oil filter housing o-ring with new one (make sure to rub oil on new o-ring before installation).
8- reinstall oil filter housing, it needs to be tightened to min 25Nm. and max 30Nm. (the torque requirements are labeled on the oil filter housing 25+5Nm.).
9- reinstall oil filter housing plug, it needs to be tightened to min 5Nm. and max 7Nm. (the torque requirements are labeled on the oil filter housing 5+2Nm.). i would recommend replacing the plug with a new one or at least swap out the o-ring with a new o-ring, i used the same plug but will definitely replace next oil change.
10- reinstall oil pan plug, it needs to be tightened to a max of 4Nm. (the torque requirements are labeled on plug max 4Nm.). i would recommend replacing the plug with a new one or at least swap out the o-ring with a new o-ring, i used the same plug but will definitely replace next oil change.
11- clean any excessive oil that may have splattered.
12- add 9 Liters of oil.
13- check for any possible leaks.
14- replace underside safety guard cover.
15- start engine and roll vehicle off of ramps, to check oil level engine need to be running at operating temperature, hood must be closed and vehicle parked on level ground. go to the Mercedes service menu on the cluster screen, scroll to "engine oil level" using the the steering wheel left buttons. add oil if necessary. make sure you dont overfill, go with 1/2 Liter increments till you reach a reading as in below pic.
Again, good job on your post. Thanks!