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DIY oil change and air filters

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Old 05-05-2019, 10:35 AM
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2019 E63S Sedan 2014 GL450
DIY oil change and air filters

Hello,
After 5500 fun miles (after proper breakin) I thought it would be a good time for an oil change and air filters. Maintenance manual has this service scheduled at 10,000 miles, but I think there might be a benefit to the first oil change to be done in between. After doing this, I will continue to do it in between dealer 10,000 mile services. I looked on the internet, and the closest thing I found was for a C63. However not at all the same procedure. So here is my procedure. I am not a licensed Mercedes-AMG mechanic, but have been working on automotive for 30 years.
First you need to safely secure the car up high enough for the procedure. A lift would be nice, but I settled for Rhino ramps RhinoGear 11912.
It helps to clear the ramps and front spoiler by raising the height of the car with the raise button before driving up the ramps. Then I use jack stands as an addition safety measure.


Next you need to remove the protection shield to access the oil filter and pan. There are a number of 13mm bolts to remove. Two of the rear side bolts are larger and longer. The shield will self support after all bolts are removed and needs to be slid towards the rear to drop down. Now the oil pan drain and filter are visible. Now the details of the C63 oil change states the oil should be at 198F so an oil valve is opened in the oil system enabling all the oil to drain, so that’s what I did. Idle the car until 198F, then drain the oil. There are two drains, one in the oil filter center (10mm hex) and a pan drain plug (8mm hex).



You should change the plugs and or Orings on all the plugs and filter cartridge cap. Here are the part #s including a complete filter cap and assembly.





The oil filter cap is removed after the oil is drained with a 24mm socket. Pull filter out, and replace. Replace filter cap, plugs, and use a torque wrench to properly tighten everything. Torque specs are clearly marked on the plugs and cap, oil pan 4nm, cap 25nm, and cap plug 5nm.
I then added 8 quarts of Amsoil 0W40 and checked for leaks. Re-attach shield with the many 13mm bolts, remove jack stands and drive off the ramps.
Now checking the oil level you have to let the oil come up to operating temp ~180F and the hood has to be closed. Yes, you can’t check the oil with the hood open. I found this out after a bit of frustration. The oil level is accesed using the left steerind wheel controls, home button to service, then scroll down to check oil level. The manual states 9.5 quarts and 8 quarts shows a low scale level. I put in another quart and still the oil was not at “max”
It took 10.5 quarts to get to “max”. Must be the extra oil filter volume. An important note, dont try to get the green bar battery like display on the left to go up to the highest segment, that will bee an overfill condition, and this display goes orange and tells you to remove oil. The difference between “max” and overfill condition is less than 1 quart, so be careful. Once you get to 9 quarts, add only 1/2 quart increments to reach “max”
enjoy.

Now for the two air filters. You have to remove the engine top cover by popping it up carefully. The removal of the air boxes are quite easy. I didn’t completely remove them. First loosen the front two vertical top torx screws on the airbox which holds the intake plenum. All the screws don’t come completely out they nicely stay captured. Pull up slightly on the plenum to disengage from the air box. Next with a flathead screwdriver loosen the hose clamp on the engine intake side. On the right (drivers side) airbox there is a hose that is attached with a plastic hose clamp on the right side. Release the plastic hose clamp with a small flathead screwdriver by inserting at the top of the clamp and the detents will release. Next loosen the airbox top two torx screws. Now you can wiggle and pop up the airbox from its three ball and socket captures, and wiggle out of the intake hose. You now should be able to flip the airbox upside down to get to the two bottom torx screws. Go ahead and loosen the remaining two torx screws. Now you can remove the air filter and replace with the right side version. It’s important to have a clean rag and wipe down everything, removing any debris from the airbox and seal channels. Reassemble. The left side does not have a side hose attached to the airbox. Repeat the procedure for the left side. I added some silicone grease to all screw threads and the ***** of the socket hold clamps to make the next service easier. This is not required but I always do this.
Check all conections and enjoy. The filters were quite dirty, and seem on the smaller side (compared to my X6M) so I will be changing at 5-6K miles.
Cheers


The following 6 users liked this post by Lucabratsi:
b0rderman (05-05-2019), E634Me (05-05-2019), MBpartsupgrade (09-16-2020), Mocha15 (08-15-2020), nidlezp (02-24-2020), rick_vor (05-05-2019) and 1 others liked this post. (Show less...)
Old 05-05-2019, 12:55 PM
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Great post and thanks for all the pictures. I'm at 7500 miles and just picked up 10l of Mobil 1 and an oil filter. Like you, I searched for any online DIY's and struck out. I figured I'd take pictures of my project and start a DIY oil change post but thanks to you, now I don't have to.
Old 05-05-2019, 09:35 PM
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Does the manual call for air filters?
Old 05-05-2019, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by V70cat
Does the manual call for air filters?
Manual calls for a change at 30k miles. Way too long. During the winter, there was plenty of driving in salt/calcium chloride dust clouds.
Change them when you want. Oil changes called out for 10k miles. Again for this hp engine, a long time. My oil at 5k miles was quite black. I know, you can send out oil and get it tested, but 5-6k mile intervals are where I will be. For me that will be once a year.
Cheers.
Old 05-06-2019, 12:04 AM
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Hi,

Sincerely appreciate you posting this. Quick question - Why wouldn't you just vacuum the oil out from the dip stick access. Oil filter is up as well, so that would avoid the need to jack at all.
Old 05-06-2019, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by chasesunny
Hi,

Sincerely appreciate you posting this. Quick question - Why wouldn't you just vacuum the oil out from the dip stick access. Oil filter is up as well, so that would avoid the need to jack at all.
There is no dipstick on this engine. I bought a vacuum pump kit thinking that would be the way to do it as well, then realized it isn't possible and needs to be drained the old fashioned way from the bottom of the pan.
Old 05-06-2019, 07:07 AM
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Great post! Thanks!
Old 05-06-2019, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by chasesunny
Hi,

Sincerely appreciate you posting this. Quick question - Why wouldn't you just vacuum the oil out from the dip stick access. Oil filter is up as well, so that would avoid the need to jack at all.
Hello,
Also, the Oil Filter is NOT up, it is now located under the engine next to the oil pan as seen in the picture. There is oil draining out of the pan plug, and the plug on the oil filter cap. I miss the above and top location of past MB oil filters. Not on the M177.
Cheers,
Old 05-09-2019, 02:30 PM
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I would have just stuck with putting in the 9.5 quarts, other than that you did everything right. What you may find happen is the gauge will go orange and you'll get a message eventually of a overfill as the car goes up and down hills. When going downhill the gauge will always read higher due to the location of the sensor. You really don't want that gauge showing max. I remember even with dip sticks max was referred to maximum overfill. On level ground it should be about halfway up the scale. I made the same mistake too when I had my AMG and I had to drain a quart of oil off. Great write up though, these cars sure are a lot more difficult than your average car to service which is generally no skid plates, drain the oil and spin on a new oil filter. That was one reason at my quick lube place we never worked on Mercedes cars. We could not get them in and out fast enough.
Old 05-10-2019, 08:02 PM
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Good write up. One question, why two il filter part number? Did you need to buy one of each and see which version came out?
Old 05-10-2019, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by nynd
Good write up. One question, why two il filter part number? Did you need to buy one of each and see which version came out?
Hello,
The first part number is for the filter and the cap Oring only. The second part number is for a complete filter, filter cap, and center stem. If you want to replace everything, use the second.
Cheers
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Old 05-11-2019, 12:44 PM
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I broke the air filter paragraph you wrote down to 11 steps:

1. Remove the engine top cover by popping it up carefully.
2. Loosen the front two vertical top torx screws on the rairbox which holds the intake plenum.
3. Pull up slightly on the plenum to disengage from the air box.
4. With a flathead screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp on the engine intake side. On the right (driver's side) airbox, there is a hose that is attached with a plastic hose clamp on the right side. Release the plastic hose clamp with a small flathead screwdriver by inserting at the top of the clamp and the detents will release.
5. Loosen the airbox top two torx screws.
6. Wiggle and pop up the airbox from its three ball and socket captures / wiggle out of the intake hose.
7. Flip the airbox upside down to get to the two bottom torx screws.
8. Loosen the remaining two torx screws.
9. Now you can remove the air filter and replace with the right side version.
10. Reassemble.
11. Repeat the procedure for the left side. The left side does not have a side hose attached to the airbox.

I'm gonna try this today. I have a feeling it's not going to go well. Seems kind of... beginner advanced?

Followup: it was extremely easy and anybody can do it. Loosen the clamp, rotate the airbox, attack all 4 Torx screws that stay in place, wrestle out the old filter, wrestle in the old filter, re-assemble, re-position + re-attach the grommets, pay attention to the plenum, viola.

Last edited by MuffinFlavored; 05-12-2019 at 12:04 PM.
Old 05-12-2019, 04:11 PM
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You used 0w40 oil is that what MB calls for?
Old 05-12-2019, 04:15 PM
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Was the filter dirty at all and how many miles? did you tap out the sand and dirt, I generally do.
Old 05-12-2019, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by V70cat
You used 0w40 oil is that what MB calls for?
Hello,
The MB part number calls for 5W40. The 0W40 is also an option.
Cheers
Old 05-12-2019, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2012 merc amg
Was the filter dirty at all and how many miles? did you tap out the sand and dirt, I generally do.
Hello,
6000 miles and the filter was dirty with plenty of debris. Yes, you should clean out the air boxes, there are debris stuck especially on the front side intake.
Cheers
Old 08-15-2020, 01:33 AM
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Thanks for the DIY helped alot

Last edited by willmaz; 08-19-2020 at 09:19 AM.
Old 09-14-2020, 04:22 PM
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be careful... when I changed mine from the bottom.... I was overwhelmed as all of the oil basically came out at once!!! I made a hell of a mess on the driveway... I figured the next time that I would suck a lot of it out if possible from the top and then do the bottom....

thanks for the write up.
Old 09-14-2020, 06:47 PM
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I wonder if there's a Fumoto valve that fits this. Seems like there should be but the 2018 E63 S isn't listed yet.
http://www.fumotousa.com/index.php

I have one on my F-250 and a few other vehicles. Very nice, you can control the oil flow precisely enough to fill empty oil bottles if desired. I usually drain into a large recycle pan that holds the multiple gallons of oil the F-250 uses and then take that to the recycling place.

Anyway, very handy. Saves spills and burned fingers, etc.

Haven't looked into one for the E63 since I have prepaid main for a few more years.

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