kicker

Guys,

When I changed out my right front rotor, I accidentely over torqued my rotor screw so the screw broke off. Tried to drilled out that thing, But it was just too hard. So when I mounted the Disc, I just have to use couple of lug bolts to hold the rotor inplace then mounted the pads.

My question is what is the purpose of the rotor screw? Is that just used in the assembly line to hold that in place? because I don't think is necessary to have that since we have 5 lug bolts to hold the disc tight. any inputs? any of you guys have rotor screw broke off and left it out?

thanks.

TorontoW210

Took a mechanic course a while back.. you probably know about this, but anyway, the instructor kept on referring to MB and how it is a ***** to work on ... certain parts are hard to get to, you may need to take down entire assembly of parts to get to one little thing as well, you have to be very careful in the torque spec.. otherwise anything too tight may break it.

I work on my other cars, but I have yet to have the guts to experiment with my W210. I am afraid I may touch something and the freakin ECU resets itself and won't start the damn thing...

kicker

Well, I did use the torque wrench on this screw and it's a smaller torque wrench, I think we only use like 12lb on that screw, and was waiting for that click sound. but it didn't click instead click on the screw oh, well, I guess I just have to live with the broken screw in it.

Luke@tirerack

don't worry about it unless the rotor will not sit flush against the hub .....

TorontoW210

good luck !

jimmydagreek

That's what I'm sayin...

Petmerctech

Get some really hard drill bits and drill it out. Then retap the threads and you're all set. I usually don't use a torque wrench unless it's something critical. This is because I've had quite a few bolts snap on me while torquing them down with a torque wrench.

rob_fed

I broke one off too, but maybe my thread were clean... Even though the hole is countersunk, the once I took the rotor off, I was able to grab the broken piece with somce diagonal wire cutter pliers. The sharp edges were enough to back out the broken piece. Otherwise, the drill and "easy out" tap will work. You can get "easy out" taps at Sears for sure, but I saw them at the Autozone too.

kicker

I did went to sears bought a set of easy out. It had two different kind of bits on each end, one for pre drill hole to screw in, the other end is to clockwise them out. When I tried to drill in, the bits got stuck and bind inside screw so tight, I couldn't even tight the screw gun with that bit. It keeps slipping off. So I use the socket wrench try to turn the bit. (the middle of the bit screw had a hex pattern) and the bit just broke right in half! What a piece of cheap you know what! So Now I just left the broken screw in there any way we don't really need that screw.

vyhanh

Hi,
This happened to both screws on my son's 91 LS400. I went to Checkers and got a kit (forgot the name) that has 5 bit-like (different sizes). I drilled each screw and pound the appropriate ly sized bit into the screw, used a vice to grab hold the bit tightly and unscrewd the screw out. Easy !!!
Good luck
VH

Luke@tirerack

they are called "easy-outs"

alanmn

I recently put new rotors on my 99 ml430. They are ebc slotted and dimpled rotors I got through tire rack. I like them and they are surprisingly easy to change. The only hangup I had is that the alignment hole does NOT align on the fronts. It took several days of frustrating calls to learn if this really mattered or not - in the end the answer was you do not need to use the alignment screw.
Interestingly, the only answer from ebc is that their products are made to fit/specs. I like the rotors, and have obviously used them without the alignment screw.