wal

I was driving back home and it was running smooth and as I was slowing down before a stop sign the car just turned off, I tried to run it again and it did not at the first try then it started and drove it for about 3 miles and I had to stop at another sign and it turned off again, this time it took me 4 tries to run it again. 2 miles later it stopped again and it took me this time about 20 minutes to run it back again. The car starts normally when I leave it for sometime and it runs smooth but it turns off when I stop at any sign . Any Idea what’s the Problem here? Is it the fuel pump? Is it the fuel filter? Anyone had same problem before? help please
it has less than 60K miles on it and never had any problems since i bought it.

MarcusF

Sounds like a bad crankshaft position sensor. Cheap fix for a DIY type.

CLK808

Yep....crankshaft position sensor would be it.

wal

Thank you guys, I will check it and I hope it is an easy fix, but was wondering why it does not give any warning lights or error codes ??

wal

OK nothing is wrong with CPS, left the car with them for 4 days to test and it never had a problem there (thats what they say). took it from them and on 1st day was running great, 2nd day it didnt start early morning, 3rd day it turned off again in the mid of an intersection, managed to run it after 5 mins, drove it for 20 mins then had to park it for 20 mins in a gas station, and it didnt start after that only after 10 mins of trying. new thing here is when i press on the gas all the way down and the rpm at about 6K i feel like the car is chocked and an odd vibration starts there. SO if it is not the CPS and no error or warning codes showed up when they scanned it SO WHAT IS IT THEN??????

Wobert

Did you notice if the rpm's were dropping and you had irregular idlespeed when the vibrations occured?

wal

well the rpm goes up and down but very minimal like you can barely see the gauge moving although i wasn't releasing the gas pedal, and the engine sound is also going up and down but it is very clear .like pulses 2 or 3 pulses / sec with vibration or actually it is shaking more than vibration

Wobert

hmm, if its very minimal, then its probably not what I was thinking of.
I used to have vibrations in my old car (polo 1,6 95), but it had visibly changing/irregular revs that coincided with the vibrations, every 2-3 seconds.
The other symptoms just seemed to fit. You drive for x number of minutes, then the vibrations/irregular iddlespeed came, and suddenly the engine just stopped. Impossible to turn on again for 5-15 minutes. Problems got worse in the end, I noticed it happened as soon as engine temperature was above 70 degrees celcius. Never found the problem, broke the engine before I got it fixed, but I assumed that it was either:

the electronic throttle control unit that should be cleaned/changed
rotor/distributor cap that should have been changed
defect vacum tubes
defect temperature sensor in the injection

It did not help trying:
changing battery
changing fuel filter
changing fuel pump

I did notice (after removing air filter and staring directly into injection) that the fuel was not being sprayed out in 0,1 of a second every 2-3 seconds, but that was the ill fortuned night where I ended up destroying the eh... "top piece" of the engine, so I never got to investigate further (now I am waiting for my "new" CLK 320 98 to come from the dealer :-) )

I dont know if any of the above helps you. As you can see, I am not a mechanic, and have no skills in that area, so everything was done by trial and lots of errors

wal

Well Thank you Wobert. anyway so I didn't believe what the mechanic said and went and replaced the CPS like what the other guys suggested, did a test today and still running and hope it will stay running.....otherwise this is what gonna do for it

guanabara

The CPS gets a soft failure and only acts up after engine warms up and you stop . I guess with the air flow reduction it gets hotter on the firewall location where it is. So as you wait a while the sensor cools down enough to work again.
The failure is of such a random type that as usual when you take for a computer scan nothing shows up, but sure enough if if you drive away from the shop it will do it again to you.
The CPS is so cheap and easy to replace that most DIY should replace it at the first sign of similar problems.
In my view this is a safety issue. I was stuck in many awkward locations.
There should have been a recall on this a long time ago. Many people with CLK and E Class cars for the 99 vintage have had similar problems.

mrvbullock

Hello to all. My problem with my 1998 clk 320 with a lot of miles is, I can start it with no problems. When I go to put it in drive it turns off. Now I can put my foot on the break and gas up the rpm's and then take off. If I'm on the highway it runs great I guess. As soon as I come to a stop or just slow down I feel it wanting to cut out! It starts every try as long as I really press the gas. What do you guys think I need to try first.....? I was told it could be my plugs or a fuel filtrer etc.... can you guys tell me what you think. Thanks in advance.

LAWYER2

Gawdaum CPS are issues on these cars too??? Had the same problem on my w220, and trust me it sucked till I got it figured out. No one helps you push when you're driving a Big ole Benz stalled out in the intersection

dlbehrns

How many miles on the car? If the CPS is bad it won't throw an error code. Change the CPS. Its and easy DIY and it is only $60 + shipping at http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...id=25@Ignition Parts&gid=7196@Crankshaft Position Sensor If that doesn't work at least you have eliminated that possibility.

unlukky

CPS may or may not throw a code. It did in mine.

dlbehrns

It did in mine. Interesting.

Momentous

Hi Guys,

I just wanted to add to this thread because like WAL said I have been experiencing the same issues with my 2005 CLK55 AMG. I would start the car then it would turn off after a minute. Then I would run it again on the first try and I would be good.

Then I was driving it on the highway for about 20min. Hit traffic and ended up slowing down to about 10km/hr when it shut right off. No power, no electric, engine off and everything. I put it in park for a few seconds, removed the key and then ran it again and it started on the first try.

I brought it to the "Stealership" where it was due for a SERVICE "A" and told them to check into this for me. As DLBEHRNS said there was no code for the CPS or what could have caused the damn shut down. It took a few days but they were able to get it to shut down but still no code. They assumed it was the CPS (probably cause I mentioned it before hand) and replaced it and kept it for another 4 days to try and reproduce the problem, but it did not shut down again. They tried 4x each day to start and stop then test drove and not once did the car shut down.

I'm going to pick my car up tomorrow and get raped on the bill but what are your thoughts on how I should approach this seeing how they are the so-called experts and still can't guarantee it was the CPS.

I encourage any other ideas/questions.

Serndipity

As a long time forum member, failing CPS has been an ubiquitous issue and usually, but not always, will trough an OBDII code.

The symptoms are:

1. Difficulty restarting a warm engine (e.g. engine cranks but does not start due to lack of spark and/or fuel supply). However, after the engine cools down, restart is fine.

2. While driving, the engine can also shut down. When this occurs in local high traffic, you're just a nuisance. However, when cruising along, it can be a significant scary issue (e.g. loss of power brakes/steering, cooling, electrics etc.).

Here in the US, while there have been numerous complaints on this matter filed with the National Transportation Safely Board, MB has not been ordered to do a recall (e.g. most likely because no deaths have occurred).

My CPS bit the dust in January 2013 at around 80,000 miles (e.g. difficulty restarting a warm engine and one stall out at a traffic light).

As mentioned above, it's a fairy inexpensive (e.g. $50 part online) easy (e.g. remove connector and one screw to replace).

However, due to a protracted spell of sub freezing weather, DIY wasn't not possible, I called the dealer, who quoted $400 to replace the CPS. A independent mechanic I sometimes use charged $100 (e.g. in and out of his shop in less than 10 minutes).

Momentous

Good insight Serndipity,

My dealer wanted to charge $400 for the CPS as well and they did replace it and I was scheduled to pick up the car tomorrow. Ironically enough the car shut down again as they were bringing the car to the service lot, lol! So now they are removing the CPS and keeping the car for god knows how much longer... I'm glad this happened since it would have been a waste of money had this happened to me after I paid the bill.

They will call me Monday after more testing I guess.

They quoted me between 200-260$ for diagnostics for the shut downs... I don't think they expected it to be this much trouble. They've had the car for 7 business days now!

Momentous

They have had the car for another 4 days and still waiting on some feedback. They asked me to bring my 2nd Key Fob for some reason as they said it could be FOB related and wanted to run tests on it.

The ruled out Fuel Related which I am assuming rules out the Fuel Pump / Pressure Sensor.

I do recall that about 3 years ago when i went to start my car it would turn in the ignition but not start. I had to remove the key and try another once or twice. I found others have had this issue on their MB's which resulted in the ignition function of the key being faulty.

Hmmm... Could a bad Key also result in a vehicle shut-down AFTER it's turned on or driving?

At this point, shouldn't the dealership provide me with a loaner car as its now been 2 weeks that I've gone without a car?

Momentous

I realized I didn't follow up on my post last year about the resolution of my random car shut downs. As it turned out the CPS was replaced and since then the car never shut down while in motion.

I have now experienced a new issue on several random occasions with this 2005 CLK 55 AMG Lemon and at 60,000KM it is now powering off either a few seconds after I start the car (while still in park) OR while at a full stop, like at a traffic light or stop sign. I may also note that no lights on the dashboard show up like they did prior to the CPS being replaced. The power seems to shut down. I should also add that after it shuts off I place the car in park, remove the key then put it back in and start the car. It turns on again just fine.

I'd also like to add that my battery is rather old and hasn't been changed in over 5 years. Last Service "A" they said it was running a bit low on juice so they said I may want to change it soon (last year). Could this be the issue OR could it be related to the ignition. I have a brand new Key Fob so I ruled out the key.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!

CJackson13

the obvious thing to do would be to replace the battery and see if it fixes the issue since you're going to have to replace it anyway. if the car shuts off at low rpm (i.e. stopped at a light) then you have a voltage issue.

Momentous

Thanks CJackson, I will get my battery changed ASAP.

After I started the car today, while still being in park, this time the car went off and all the lights on the dashboard turned on. Do you think thats still voltage? What replacement part would I need?

I snapped a picture of the dashboard... see attachment below, thanks!

Momentous

So I just got a call back, they said they couldn't get the car to shut off during their 2 days of testing and because the car starts up immediately after the shut downs its not battery related and were leaning more towards CPS again even though they knew it was replaced last year. They did say it was a shot in the dark. Of course there were no codes that showed up when they plugged it into the computer.

Should I insist they change the battery and be done with it? I told them it could be voltage related but they don't seem to be acknowledging it.

Eva Hook

Come to find out my 2000 clk was doing the same thing and it was a rotted vacuum line that finally had blown. $2 fix and it has never run better. 😥😃