99 CLK 320 Turns off
. Any Idea what’s the Problem here? Is it the fuel pump? Is it the fuel filter? Anyone had same problem before? help please 
it has less than 60K miles on it and never had any problems since i bought it.
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I used to have vibrations in my old car (polo 1,6 95), but it had visibly changing/irregular revs that coincided with the vibrations, every 2-3 seconds.
The other symptoms just seemed to fit. You drive for x number of minutes, then the vibrations/irregular iddlespeed came, and suddenly the engine just stopped. Impossible to turn on again for 5-15 minutes. Problems got worse in the end, I noticed it happened as soon as engine temperature was above 70 degrees celcius. Never found the problem, broke the engine before I got it fixed, but I assumed that it was either:
the electronic throttle control unit that should be cleaned/changed
rotor/distributor cap that should have been changed
defect vacum tubes
defect temperature sensor in the injection
It did not help trying:
changing battery
changing fuel filter
changing fuel pump
I did notice (after removing air filter and staring directly into injection) that the fuel was not being sprayed out in 0,1 of a second every 2-3 seconds, but that was the ill fortuned night where I ended up destroying the eh... "top piece" of the engine, so I never got to investigate further (now I am waiting for my "new" CLK 320 98 to come from the dealer :-) )
I dont know if any of the above helps you. As you can see, I am not a mechanic, and have no skills in that area, so everything was done by trial and lots of errors
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
like what the other guys suggested, did a test today and still running
and hope it will stay running.....otherwise this is what gonna do for it
The CPS gets a soft failure and only acts up after engine warms up and you stop . I guess with the air flow reduction it gets hotter on the firewall location where it is. So as you wait a while the sensor cools down enough to work again.
The failure is of such a random type that as usual when you take for a computer scan nothing shows up, but sure enough if if you drive away from the shop it will do it again to you.
The CPS is so cheap and easy to replace that most DIY should replace it at the first sign of similar problems.
In my view this is a safety issue. I was stuck in many awkward locations.
There should have been a recall on this a long time ago. Many people with CLK and E Class cars for the 99 vintage have had similar problems.
CPS may or may not throw a code. It did in mine.
I just wanted to add to this thread because like WAL said I have been experiencing the same issues with my 2005 CLK55 AMG. I would start the car then it would turn off after a minute. Then I would run it again on the first try and I would be good.
Then I was driving it on the highway for about 20min. Hit traffic and ended up slowing down to about 10km/hr when it shut right off. No power, no electric, engine off and everything. I put it in park for a few seconds, removed the key and then ran it again and it started on the first try.
I brought it to the "Stealership" where it was due for a SERVICE "A" and told them to check into this for me. As DLBEHRNS said there was no code for the CPS or what could have caused the damn shut down. It took a few days but they were able to get it to shut down but still no code. They assumed it was the CPS (probably cause I mentioned it before hand) and replaced it and kept it for another 4 days to try and reproduce the problem, but it did not shut down again. They tried 4x each day to start and stop then test drove and not once did the car shut down.
I'm going to pick my car up tomorrow and get raped on the bill but what are your thoughts on how I should approach this seeing how they are the so-called experts and still can't guarantee it was the CPS.
I encourage any other ideas/questions.




The symptoms are:
1. Difficulty restarting a warm engine (e.g. engine cranks but does not start due to lack of spark and/or fuel supply). However, after the engine cools down, restart is fine.
2. While driving, the engine can also shut down. When this occurs in local high traffic, you're just a nuisance. However, when cruising along, it can be a significant scary issue (e.g. loss of power brakes/steering, cooling, electrics etc.).
Here in the US, while there have been numerous complaints on this matter filed with the National Transportation Safely Board, MB has not been ordered to do a recall (e.g. most likely because no deaths have occurred).
My CPS bit the dust in January 2013 at around 80,000 miles (e.g. difficulty restarting a warm engine and one stall out at a traffic light).
As mentioned above, it's a fairy inexpensive (e.g. $50 part online) easy (e.g. remove connector and one screw to replace).
However, due to a protracted spell of sub freezing weather, DIY wasn't not possible, I called the dealer, who quoted $400 to replace the CPS. A independent mechanic I sometimes use charged $100 (e.g. in and out of his shop in less than 10 minutes).
My dealer wanted to charge $400 for the CPS as well and they did replace it and I was scheduled to pick up the car tomorrow. Ironically enough the car shut down again as they were bringing the car to the service lot, lol! So now they are removing the CPS and keeping the car for god knows how much longer... I'm glad this happened since it would have been a waste of money had this happened to me after I paid the bill.
They will call me Monday after more testing I guess.
They quoted me between 200-260$ for diagnostics for the shut downs... I don't think they expected it to be this much trouble. They've had the car for 7 business days now!
The ruled out Fuel Related which I am assuming rules out the Fuel Pump / Pressure Sensor.
I do recall that about 3 years ago when i went to start my car it would turn in the ignition but not start. I had to remove the key and try another once or twice. I found others have had this issue on their MB's which resulted in the ignition function of the key being faulty.
Hmmm... Could a bad Key also result in a vehicle shut-down AFTER it's turned on or driving?
At this point, shouldn't the dealership provide me with a loaner car as its now been 2 weeks that I've gone without a car?
I have now experienced a new issue on several random occasions with this 2005 CLK 55 AMG Lemon and at 60,000KM it is now powering off either a few seconds after I start the car (while still in park) OR while at a full stop, like at a traffic light or stop sign. I may also note that no lights on the dashboard show up like they did prior to the CPS being replaced. The power seems to shut down. I should also add that after it shuts off I place the car in park, remove the key then put it back in and start the car. It turns on again just fine.
I'd also like to add that my battery is rather old and hasn't been changed in over 5 years. Last Service "A" they said it was running a bit low on juice so they said I may want to change it soon (last year). Could this be the issue OR could it be related to the ignition. I have a brand new Key Fob so I ruled out the key.
Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!
Last edited by Momentous; May 4, 2015 at 12:13 AM.
I have now experienced a new issue on several random occasions with this 2005 CLK 55 AMG Lemon and at 60,000KM it is now powering off either a few seconds after I start the car (while still in park) OR while at a full stop, like at a traffic light or stop sign. I may also note that no lights on the dashboard show up like they did prior to the CPS being replaced. The power seems to shut down. I should also add that after it shuts off I place the car in park, remove the key then put it back in and start the car. It turns on again just fine.
I'd also like to add that my battery is rather old and hasn't been changed in over 5 years. Last Service "A" they said it was running a bit low on juice so they said I may want to change it soon (last year). Could this be the issue OR could it be related to the ignition. I have a brand new Key Fob so I ruled out the key.
Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!
Thanks CJackson, I will get my battery changed ASAP.
After I started the car today, while still being in park, this time the car went off and all the lights on the dashboard turned on. Do you think thats still voltage? What replacement part would I need?
I snapped a picture of the dashboard... see attachment below, thanks!
Should I insist they change the battery and be done with it? I told them it could be voltage related but they don't seem to be acknowledging it.




