driver's window switch pops off....
#1
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driver's window switch pops off....
I did some searching and, while there have been a few mentions of replacing window switches, it doesn't seem to be a common problem. My passenger side window switch (on the driver's door) has long had an issue where it would partially pop up when raising the window, but it has never come completely off. Now out of nowhere the switch next to it often pops off and falls on the floor. Big PITA when it's 20° out and I'm doing 75mph. The switch part looks intact but am I just kidding myself and it must be broken?
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2006 CLK350 Cabriolet (A209)
I did some searching and, while there have been a few mentions of replacing window switches, it doesn't seem to be a common problem. My passenger side window switch (on the driver's door) has long had an issue where it would partially pop up when raising the window, but it has never come completely off. Now out of nowhere the switch next to it often pops off and falls on the floor. Big PITA when it's 20° out and I'm doing 75mph. The switch part looks intact but am I just kidding myself and it must be broken?
#3
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This is a common problem. My 203 has the same switch and issue and my 209 was in the same boat. I saw a link to just the buttons once but read a review of bad fitment. You do have to pull the door card to change the switch but it is pretty easy.
#4
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if I could figure out how to remove a button without breaking it I could swap this one for one of the back windows!
#5
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I had the driver switch module replaced about 1.5 years ago because the window switch broke at the pivot point. I was able to open and close the window as long as I made sure I put my thumb on the pivot end and then operated the switch.
You do have to remove the door panel to change the module. I bought the part from a dealer and had my INDY replace it for $100 while he had the car for some other service.
You do have to remove the door panel to change the module. I bought the part from a dealer and had my INDY replace it for $100 while he had the car for some other service.
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2006 CLK350 Cabriolet (A209)
I had the driver switch module replaced about 1.5 years ago because the window switch broke at the pivot point. I was able to open and close the window as long as I made sure I put my thumb on the pivot end and then operated the switch.
You do have to remove the door panel to change the module. I bought the part from a dealer and had my INDY replace it for $100 while he had the car for some other service.
You do have to remove the door panel to change the module. I bought the part from a dealer and had my INDY replace it for $100 while he had the car for some other service.
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#8
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hey, are these the clips that I should have on hand if I pull the door panel?
https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Benz.../dp/B00AZOIYUE
https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Benz.../dp/B00AZOIYUE
#9
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Yes, those are the clips. And you definitely have to pull the door panel. The wood is screwed in from the back, and the switches clip to the wood from the back. And the window switches and trunk release are all one piece. When you remove it from the wood, be careful to press them straight out. You will be tempted to grab the window switches and tilt one end up, which can break very thin pieces of plastic that hold the trunk switch in. Then you will also need super glue.
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2006 CLK350 Cabriolet (A209)
It's not a hard DIY to change out the switch module with a new one, the switch modules just plug in. If you go easy on the door panel when removing you can probably reuse the same clips. There should be a picture tutorial on removing the door panel and that module either here or on YouTube.
#11
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It's not a hard DIY to change out the switch module with a new one, the switch modules just plug in. If you go easy on the door panel when removing you can probably reuse the same clips. There should be a picture tutorial on removing the door panel and that module either here or on YouTube.
#12
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The left rear passenger switch popped off in the driver's module 2 days ago and I glued it back with superglue and it seems to be holding.
I put the superglue where I could see the breaking points are and put it back in and applied pressure for 2 minutes and then left it to settle for the night.
The next day the switch would not move, but after gently wiggling it enough, it started moving and it's holding up well so far.
I'll be more gentle on it going forward and if it breaks again, then I'll just replace the module.
I put the superglue where I could see the breaking points are and put it back in and applied pressure for 2 minutes and then left it to settle for the night.
The next day the switch would not move, but after gently wiggling it enough, it started moving and it's holding up well so far.
I'll be more gentle on it going forward and if it breaks again, then I'll just replace the module.
#13
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I finally gave up and at least got the door closed and locked. I had hoped to get it squared away this morning before the rain started but it's pouring buckets now. Once it's clear I'm torn between going out and buying more clips and trying to get it perfect or just getting the 2 T-30 bolts back in along with the trim around the latch and calling it a day.
The left rear passenger switch popped off in the driver's module 2 days ago and I glued it back with superglue and it seems to be holding.
I put the superglue where I could see the breaking points are and put it back in and applied pressure for 2 minutes and then left it to settle for the night.
The next day the switch would not move, but after gently wiggling it enough, it started moving and it's holding up well so far.
I'll be more gentle on it going forward and if it breaks again, then I'll just replace the module.
I put the superglue where I could see the breaking points are and put it back in and applied pressure for 2 minutes and then left it to settle for the night.
The next day the switch would not move, but after gently wiggling it enough, it started moving and it's holding up well so far.
I'll be more gentle on it going forward and if it breaks again, then I'll just replace the module.
#14
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There are really only two "tricks" to reinstalling the door panel. The trickiest part is that long rubber channel along the top of the door that the top of the panel goes in. That wants to pull off the door with the panel. You need to make sure it is correctly back on the door, then make sure the panel correctly presses down into the groove when you put the panel on. Otherwise the panel will not sit down far enough.
The second trick is that is the plastic "J hook" on the door that the panel has to go up and over. You'll see it. It's sort of below where the seat controls are. Make sure the panel is hooked over that at the same time you deal with the rubber channel.
The second trick is that is the plastic "J hook" on the door that the panel has to go up and over. You'll see it. It's sort of below where the seat controls are. Make sure the panel is hooked over that at the same time you deal with the rubber channel.
#15
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There are really only two "tricks" to reinstalling the door panel. The trickiest part is that long rubber channel along the top of the door that the top of the panel goes in. That wants to pull off the door with the panel. You need to make sure it is correctly back on the door, then make sure the panel correctly presses down into the groove when you put the panel on. Otherwise the panel will not sit down far enough.
EDIT: after watching that YouTube video with the RHD repair of the window switch, I wonder if I'm not hanging the top of the panel tight enough to the window rubber??
Last edited by eddieo45; 09-30-2017 at 01:58 PM.
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#20
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https://www.ebay.com/p/2x-Window-Swi...209/1474270102
#21
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There are really only two "tricks" to reinstalling the door panel. The trickiest part is that long rubber channel along the top of the door that the top of the panel goes in. That wants to pull off the door with the panel. You need to make sure it is correctly back on the door, then make sure the panel correctly presses down into the groove when you put the panel on. Otherwise the panel will not sit down far enough.
The second trick is that is the plastic "J hook" on the door that the panel has to go up and over. You'll see it. It's sort of below where the seat controls are. Make sure the panel is hooked over that at the same time you deal with the rubber channel.
The second trick is that is the plastic "J hook" on the door that the panel has to go up and over. You'll see it. It's sort of below where the seat controls are. Make sure the panel is hooked over that at the same time you deal with the rubber channel.
#22
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turns out these two tips were key! I ended up putting a long plastic tube (like a straw) over the door lock plunger to keep it in the hole while I futzed around until I got it seated properly. It was a PITA and I'm in no hurry to fix my broken seat control in the passenger door but at least now I know how much aggravation to expect!
#24
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Hey thread subscribers: turns out 2038200110 is NOT the part number for the buttons themselves, and the cheap Chinese (or Turkish) knock-offs don't match. Anyone know the OEM part number for the button/switch/covers themselves??
#25
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Pretty sure OEM you need the entire assembly, if you are looking just for switches.