Hid kit- no errors w/ video
#129
Glad to hear that. Mine is as well .
Awesome...just update us so I know whether or not the resistor harnesses work with the Kensun HID kits (they should since they're all from the same company).
Awesome...just update us so I know whether or not the resistor harnesses work with the Kensun HID kits (they should since they're all from the same company).
#130
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E350 4-Matic, GLE350, Harley Davidson Electra Glide
I was thinking about disconnecting the error corrector off the right light simply because I installed it when I had a failure to fire a few months ago. That was prior to my figuring out that the spade connectors didn't fit all that tight into the oem h7 connector. Once I fixed that issue, I think I can remove the error corrector without worry. On the other hand, I really don't want to mess with something that is working fine since when you open up the light and move things around, sometimes the clip that holds the bulb into the housing moves a little and it screws up the bulb seating and headlight aim.
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ML-350, Audi Q7, Ford Taurus
well, the kensun does not work... it would flickr 4 times then shuts off, error too.
i use the resistor from Kensun too but did not try the relay.
Did you use the relay?
I'm going to order the Opt7 kit and hopefully that will work with this load resistor
i use the resistor from Kensun too but did not try the relay.
Did you use the relay?
I'm going to order the Opt7 kit and hopefully that will work with this load resistor
#132
Yes, a relay was included in the OPT7 kit, sorry forgot about this completely. Call kensun, they will ship one for your high beam and low beam for free.
#133
Here are pictures of my OPT7 55W 5000k setup for Hi and Low beams. Sorry for the lack of clarity. It was starting to drizzle and it was clouding up my CPL filter. You can see that the color is pure white like factory xenons. It really turns heads every time people see it coming.
Last edited by opasha; 10-04-2014 at 12:49 AM.
#136
Yes. I use this by OPT7: Amazon.com: OPT7® Bolt AC 55w HID Xenon Conversion Kit - H7 (5000K, Bright White) - 2 Year Warranty: Automotive.
You will get errors for every kit unless you use a resistor. Thankfully, Kensun makes these resistors harnesses that I used and they work perfectly: Amazon.com: Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7: Automotive
You only need to buy 2 of each (2 hid kits (1 set for high beam 1 set for low beam) 2 resistor harnesses (1 set for high 1 set for low).
I got these anti-flicker cancellors from Kensun for free just in case: Amazon.com: HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand): Automotive, but I don't think they are needed because the resistor is also anti-flicker. We had already installed the ant-flicker wire with the HID setup before realizing that we needed a resistor to fix everything so we just left the cancellor installed.
So, to sum it up, you can pretty much use ANY HID kit, but you need the Kensun resistor harness (thankfully this is a full plug and play harness so you don't have to mess up or dig into any original wires). However, we used the original ML wires from the halogen OEM setup because this plugs directly into the resistor harness input (there is one side of the harness that is strictly input only)- this way the car gets tricked into thinking that the original ML wire is plugged in. If you have any questions when you install, just call Kensun - they helped us really easily to install using the resistors because they were confusing at first.
I don't like the Opt 7 quality of the bulbs because 3 of the 6 of them (yes I ordered many kinds because I did a lot of trial and error), had a tiny bit of pigment in the bulbs. If you have ANYTHING inside your bulb, it will not output 100% perfect beams because the pigment will create a tiny shadow/blindspot within the beam. It isn't anything too noticeable or terrible, but that just means check the bulbs and make sure yours are clean/clear as possible on the inside.
This is also why I recommend trying the Kensun kit first: Amazon.com: 55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k: Automotive (I had originally used this but sent it back because I had no idea of the resistor harnesses). Their bulb quality might be better and they have Amazon Prime and a phone number. Opt 7 has no phone number so it's hard to contact them unless you just email their sales department.
In my opinion, definitely go with the 5000K setup no matter what anyone says because it produces the best output right after 4300k (oem yellow), and it gives a PURE white xenon light. Trust me...I'm a big aftermarket HID and OEM bi-xenon, LED guy. I know my colors. If you want OEM look, go for the 5000k.
You will get errors for every kit unless you use a resistor. Thankfully, Kensun makes these resistors harnesses that I used and they work perfectly: Amazon.com: Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7: Automotive
You only need to buy 2 of each (2 hid kits (1 set for high beam 1 set for low beam) 2 resistor harnesses (1 set for high 1 set for low).
I got these anti-flicker cancellors from Kensun for free just in case: Amazon.com: HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand): Automotive, but I don't think they are needed because the resistor is also anti-flicker. We had already installed the ant-flicker wire with the HID setup before realizing that we needed a resistor to fix everything so we just left the cancellor installed.
So, to sum it up, you can pretty much use ANY HID kit, but you need the Kensun resistor harness (thankfully this is a full plug and play harness so you don't have to mess up or dig into any original wires). However, we used the original ML wires from the halogen OEM setup because this plugs directly into the resistor harness input (there is one side of the harness that is strictly input only)- this way the car gets tricked into thinking that the original ML wire is plugged in. If you have any questions when you install, just call Kensun - they helped us really easily to install using the resistors because they were confusing at first.
I don't like the Opt 7 quality of the bulbs because 3 of the 6 of them (yes I ordered many kinds because I did a lot of trial and error), had a tiny bit of pigment in the bulbs. If you have ANYTHING inside your bulb, it will not output 100% perfect beams because the pigment will create a tiny shadow/blindspot within the beam. It isn't anything too noticeable or terrible, but that just means check the bulbs and make sure yours are clean/clear as possible on the inside.
This is also why I recommend trying the Kensun kit first: Amazon.com: 55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k: Automotive (I had originally used this but sent it back because I had no idea of the resistor harnesses). Their bulb quality might be better and they have Amazon Prime and a phone number. Opt 7 has no phone number so it's hard to contact them unless you just email their sales department.
In my opinion, definitely go with the 5000K setup no matter what anyone says because it produces the best output right after 4300k (oem yellow), and it gives a PURE white xenon light. Trust me...I'm a big aftermarket HID and OEM bi-xenon, LED guy. I know my colors. If you want OEM look, go for the 5000k.
I'm in Canada, and Kensun doesn't ship here.
Has anybody found a similar quality item on ebay that they might recommend?
#137
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2013 ML 550, CLK63 AMG, 2012 E350 4MATIC
around here, they don't. People who buy aftermarket HID kits really dont care about how annoying they are oncoming or coming up from behind. "oh wow, that's brigher so it's better!". yeah, it's brighter because you're throwing light everwhere. Nothing better than a $50 bright blue HID kit in a $1,000 civic..yep, you're livin the life alright.
the person who invented the aftermarket HID kit deserves a nutpunch
#138
around here, they don't. People who buy aftermarket HID kits really dont care about how annoying they are oncoming or coming up from behind. "oh wow, that's brigher so it's better!". yeah, it's brighter because you're throwing light everwhere. Nothing better than a $50 bright blue HID kit in a $1,000 civic..yep, you're livin the life alright.
the person who invented the aftermarket HID kit deserves a nutpunch
the person who invented the aftermarket HID kit deserves a nutpunch
#139
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2013 ML 550, CLK63 AMG, 2012 E350 4MATIC
regardless, no aftermarket HID kit is dot approved, and (as far as I can tell) they're illegal in all 50 states. certainly illegal in MA
actually, a google search brings you straight to a previous, and lively, discussion on this same board:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...stalled-6.html
Last edited by schorert1; 11-07-2014 at 11:43 AM.
#140
actually, they don't, and it doesn't take much of a google search to find examples of how much glare exists above the cutoff line. (actually all the examples in this thread seem to demonstrate). The bulb output and physical shape is incorrect for projectors designed for halogens.
regardless, no aftermarket HID kit is dot approved, and (as far as I can tell) they're illegal in all 50 states. certainly illegal in MA
actually, a google search brings you straight to a previous, and lively, discussion on this same board:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...stalled-6.html
regardless, no aftermarket HID kit is dot approved, and (as far as I can tell) they're illegal in all 50 states. certainly illegal in MA
actually, a google search brings you straight to a previous, and lively, discussion on this same board:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...stalled-6.html
I think, generally, the HID retrofit question is trickier than either side admits (that thread melted my brain, btw).
The only good way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit, install it, and test it yourself with another car oncoming in a variety of elevation conditions. Glare is fortunately an easy thing to test.
I'm actually installing into a GL, and the headlight angle would - I think - be better, since for equivalent area of illumination require less forward angle and more downward angle compared to the sedans in the other thread.
#141
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Good thing I'm not in an y of the 50 states.
I think, generally, the HID retrofit question is trickier than either side admits (that thread melted my brain, btw).
The only good way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit, install it, and test it yourself with another car oncoming in a variety of elevation conditions. Glare is fortunately an easy thing to test.
I'm actually installing into a GL, and the headlight angle would - I think - be better, since for equivalent area of illumination require less forward angle and more downward angle compared to the sedans in the other thread.
I think, generally, the HID retrofit question is trickier than either side admits (that thread melted my brain, btw).
The only good way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit, install it, and test it yourself with another car oncoming in a variety of elevation conditions. Glare is fortunately an easy thing to test.
I'm actually installing into a GL, and the headlight angle would - I think - be better, since for equivalent area of illumination require less forward angle and more downward angle compared to the sedans in the other thread.
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/sudbur...-say-1.1336358
The way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit and install it, then you'll know it glares. seriously, if the housings aren't the same (and due to the physical dimensions of the bulb, and the shutter used on the MB lighting kit, they're not) then the light beam is not the same as the MB hid projector.
as far as I know, nobody ever gets pulled over for aftermarket hid's here, no matter where the fall on the "****ty-aftermarket-hid spectrum". I was quite surprised to learn that any cop can ask to inspect your lighting equipment if they suspect a non DOT light kit.
Last edited by schorert1; 11-07-2014 at 12:58 PM.
#142
well they're illegal in canada too...(though I doubt about 80% of the claims in the article)
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/sudbur...-say-1.1336358
The way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit and install it, then you'll know it glares. seriously, if the housings aren't the same (and due to the physical dimensions of the bulb, and the shutter used on the MB lighting kit, they're not) then the light beam is not the same as the MB hid projector.
as far as I know, nobody ever gets pulled over for aftermarket hid's here, no matter where the fall on the "****ty-aftermarket-hid spectrum". I was quite surprised to learn that any cop can ask to inspect your lighting equipment if they suspect a non DOT light kit.
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/sudbur...-say-1.1336358
The way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit and install it, then you'll know it glares. seriously, if the housings aren't the same (and due to the physical dimensions of the bulb, and the shutter used on the MB lighting kit, they're not) then the light beam is not the same as the MB hid projector.
as far as I know, nobody ever gets pulled over for aftermarket hid's here, no matter where the fall on the "****ty-aftermarket-hid spectrum". I was quite surprised to learn that any cop can ask to inspect your lighting equipment if they suspect a non DOT light kit.
In other words, if I install them, and they don't seem to cause undue glare (glare isn't binary, but rather a matter of degree)....then I'm good.
If they glare, I'll sell them on ebay for a loss and figure out a way to install the OEM xenon assemblies I have sitting in my garage.
#143
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ML350 Bluetech 2012
I have been using the opt7 for 3 months with the following issues:
1. You can't use the running lights.
2. Last week in the cold the lights fail, I have to turn off the car and back on several times.
I'm switching back to bulbs.
1. You can't use the running lights.
2. Last week in the cold the lights fail, I have to turn off the car and back on several times.
I'm switching back to bulbs.
#144
Need a little bit more information than that. What was your exact install and setup? Our Opt7 have been running perfect for the past 6 months without issues and never once blinded anyone nor got flashed by oncoming traffic. They literally are like a perfect xenon setup being a 5000k 55w setup with the error cancelers and load resister harnesses. I'm quite pleased with them.
#145
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Last year I had problems with the lights when the temps got gold. I think the problem is that single blade connectors don't connect well with the oem connector that fits on the back of the oem bulb. When it gets cold that connection loses its physical connectivity and prevents a good solid mechanical connection. What I did was buy a twin blade H7 connector on amazon, got some spade connectors and made a good mechanical connection between the end of the wires coming form the the HID bulb and when I connected it to the oem bulb connector not only did it fit tighter but I was able to zip tie the connectors together and made a solid connection. Have not had a misfire since that time. Was out in the mid-west last week and when I got up to head back east, the temp outside was 2 deg. Several years ago I was in Vermont and the temp hit -30 deg F where nothing seems to work. When I put on the lights (not automatic like my M) they were very dim for several minutes. However, it didn't matter since the car took at least 10 minutes to warm up. Took another 5 or 10 minutes for any of the digital screens to actually work and I needed to put the car I gear and sit there for the transmission to work. Last year after installing my HIDs I had the cold weather problem up in Canada which is what got me thinking about the old coefficient of expansion of the different metals and how much smaller the HID connector blades were. Hope my solution works for you.
#146
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ML350 Bluetech 2012
Need a little bit more information than that. What was your exact install and setup? Our Opt7 have been running perfect for the past 6 months without issues and never once blinded anyone nor got flashed by oncoming traffic. They literally are like a perfect xenon setup being a 5000k 55w setup with the error cancelers and load resister harnesses. I'm quite pleased with them.
The cold was an odd one, as they bulbs flicker 3-4 times then go out. After the third of fourth time starting the car they work. I also turned off all other electronics (it was -10 F).
This is my third kit. I was using 35w Kensun with excellent results until a bulb blew.
#147
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ML350 Bluetech 2012
Last year I had problems with the lights when the temps got gold. I think the problem is that single blade connectors don't connect well with the oem connector that fits on the back of the oem bulb. When it gets cold that connection loses its physical connectivity and prevents a good solid mechanical connection. What I did was buy a twin blade H7 connector on amazon, got some spade connectors and made a good mechanical connection between the end of the wires coming form the the HID bulb and when I connected it to the oem bulb connector not only did it fit tighter but I was able to zip tie the connectors together and made a solid connection. Have not had a misfire since that time. Was out in the mid-west last week and when I got up to head back east, the temp outside was 2 deg. Several years ago I was in Vermont and the temp hit -30 deg F where nothing seems to work. When I put on the lights (not automatic like my M) they were very dim for several minutes. However, it didn't matter since the car took at least 10 minutes to warm up. Took another 5 or 10 minutes for any of the digital screens to actually work and I needed to put the car I gear and sit there for the transmission to work. Last year after installing my HIDs I had the cold weather problem up in Canada which is what got me thinking about the old coefficient of expansion of the different metals and how much smaller the HID connector blades were. Hope my solution works for you.
#148
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From what I understand, on startup the ballasts are very tricky in the amount of voltage they need. I never had this problem with HID lights before because they all came with plug and play H11 or some other connector which gave me a good mechanical connection. These blade connectors, at least on the two sets of HIDs I have really don't make a super tight connection to the OEM connector. If you notice when you use a halogen bulb the connector fits very tight and the little snap on the side of the locking washer hold it in place very tightly. I think just sticking the two blades into the oem connector doesn't give it the mechanical connection needed. Now, I am running 35W bulbs so that may be an issue but others have put in those bulbs. Considering it costs about $5 to buy one of those connectors I mentioned and it takes about 15 minutes to install each side, it might be worth a try. Here is a link to a set
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/230448966005?lpid=82&chn=ps
You can either solder the wires or go to radio shack and get a small bag of spade connector parts and use them to connect these to the wires you have on the HID lights now.
Good luck
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/230448966005?lpid=82&chn=ps
You can either solder the wires or go to radio shack and get a small bag of spade connector parts and use them to connect these to the wires you have on the HID lights now.
Good luck
#149
I have mine installed almost a year. No problem at all. Way better than oem H7 bulbs but still can't compare factory Xenon which the lens itself allows more light through and wider pattern. But for $150 bucks can't complain at all. I use CN light bulbs and Hylux ballast. No resistors and relay harness wire use. Please don't buy those junk ballasts spend a little more get a nice one. You don't want to drive it on the road and suddenly no lights. If anyone wants to upgrade theirs you can get it on Ebay. I may change the bulbs after winter for Retrofit Source XB35 bulbs.
#150
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I agree, stay away from the Junk bulbs and ballasts they are nothing but problems. I had good ones in my fusion and the only issue I had was corrosion on the connectors (I do a lot of driving in salty winter conditions) which always presented itself at the worst time but just taking apart the connectors and putting them together again (even the ones with the silicon gaskets) seemed to fix the problem until I coated them with diaelectric grease on the outside of the connector. Whenever I can I do hard connections and cover them with the grease to slow down the corrosion problems that always seem to pop up