Originally Posted by pcsgrp

Mine still working like a charm.

Originally Posted by eggyacid

I got my kit from Kensun, haven't had the chance to install it yet. Hopefully to install it in the next couple weeks

Originally Posted by eggyacid

well, the kensun does not work... it would flickr 4 times then shuts off, error too.
i use the resistor from Kensun too but did not try the relay.
Did you use the relay?
I'm going to order the Opt7 kit and hopefully that will work with this load resistor

Originally Posted by pcsgrp

They look good

Originally Posted by opasha

Yes. I use this by OPT7: Amazon.com: OPT7® Bolt AC 55w HID Xenon Conversion Kit - H7 (5000K, Bright White) - 2 Year Warranty: Automotive.

You will get errors for every kit unless you use a resistor. Thankfully, Kensun makes these resistors harnesses that I used and they work perfectly: Amazon.com: Kensun HID Conversion Kit Single Beam Relay Wiring Harness with Anti-Flicker 50W Load Resistor - H7: Automotive

You only need to buy 2 of each (2 hid kits (1 set for high beam 1 set for low beam) 2 resistor harnesses (1 set for high 1 set for low).

I got these anti-flicker cancellors from Kensun for free just in case: Amazon.com: HID Kit Computer Warning Canceller & Anti Flicker (1 Pair) - (Original Kensun Brand): Automotive, but I don't think they are needed because the resistor is also anti-flicker. We had already installed the ant-flicker wire with the HID setup before realizing that we needed a resistor to fix everything so we just left the cancellor installed.

So, to sum it up, you can pretty much use ANY HID kit, but you need the Kensun resistor harness (thankfully this is a full plug and play harness so you don't have to mess up or dig into any original wires). However, we used the original ML wires from the halogen OEM setup because this plugs directly into the resistor harness input (there is one side of the harness that is strictly input only)- this way the car gets tricked into thinking that the original ML wire is plugged in. If you have any questions when you install, just call Kensun - they helped us really easily to install using the resistors because they were confusing at first.

I don't like the Opt 7 quality of the bulbs because 3 of the 6 of them (yes I ordered many kinds because I did a lot of trial and error), had a tiny bit of pigment in the bulbs. If you have ANYTHING inside your bulb, it will not output 100% perfect beams because the pigment will create a tiny shadow/blindspot within the beam. It isn't anything too noticeable or terrible, but that just means check the bulbs and make sure yours are clean/clear as possible on the inside.

This is also why I recommend trying the Kensun kit first: Amazon.com: 55w Kensun HID Xenon Conversion Kit "All Bulb Sizes and Colors" with Digital Ballasts - H7 - 5000k: Automotive (I had originally used this but sent it back because I had no idea of the resistor harnesses). Their bulb quality might be better and they have Amazon Prime and a phone number. Opt 7 has no phone number so it's hard to contact them unless you just email their sales department.

In my opinion, definitely go with the 5000K setup no matter what anyone says because it produces the best output right after 4300k (oem yellow), and it gives a PURE white xenon light. Trust me...I'm a big aftermarket HID and OEM bi-xenon, LED guy. I know my colors. If you want OEM look, go for the 5000k.

Originally Posted by iankayem

Around here, the gendarmes can order a tow truck for this.

Originally Posted by schorert1

around here, they don't. People who buy aftermarket HID kits really dont care about how annoying they are oncoming or coming up from behind. "oh wow, that's brigher so it's better!". yeah, it's brighter because you're throwing light everwhere. Nothing better than a $50 bright blue HID kit in a $1,000 civic..yep, you're livin the life alright.

the person who invented the aftermarket HID kit deserves a nutpunch

Originally Posted by McGG

IT sounds like these vehicles do a good job of managing the HID light through the halogen projector housings.

Originally Posted by schorert1

actually, they don't, and it doesn't take much of a google search to find examples of how much glare exists above the cutoff line. (actually all the examples in this thread seem to demonstrate). The bulb output and physical shape is incorrect for projectors designed for halogens.
regardless, no aftermarket HID kit is dot approved, and (as far as I can tell) they're illegal in all 50 states. certainly illegal in MA

actually, a google search brings you straight to a previous, and lively, discussion on this same board:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...stalled-6.html

Originally Posted by McGG

Good thing I'm not in an y of the 50 states.

I think, generally, the HID retrofit question is trickier than either side admits (that thread melted my brain, btw).

The only good way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit, install it, and test it yourself with another car oncoming in a variety of elevation conditions. Glare is fortunately an easy thing to test.

I'm actually installing into a GL, and the headlight angle would - I think - be better, since for equivalent area of illumination require less forward angle and more downward angle compared to the sedans in the other thread.

Originally Posted by schorert1

well they're illegal in canada too...(though I doubt about 80% of the claims in the article)
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/sudbur...-say-1.1336358

The way to tell if your vehicle glares is to buy a kit and install it, then you'll know it glares. seriously, if the housings aren't the same (and due to the physical dimensions of the bulb, and the shutter used on the MB lighting kit, they're not) then the light beam is not the same as the MB hid projector.
as far as I know, nobody ever gets pulled over for aftermarket hid's here, no matter where the fall on the "****ty-aftermarket-hid spectrum". I was quite surprised to learn that any cop can ask to inspect your lighting equipment if they suspect a non DOT light kit.

Originally Posted by misra

I have been using the opt7 for 3 months with the following issues:

1. You can't use the running lights.
2. Last week in the cold the lights fail, I have to turn off the car and back on several times.

I'm switching back to bulbs.

Originally Posted by opasha

Need a little bit more information than that. What was your exact install and setup? Our Opt7 have been running perfect for the past 6 months without issues and never once blinded anyone nor got flashed by oncoming traffic. They literally are like a perfect xenon setup being a 5000k 55w setup with the error cancelers and load resister harnesses. I'm quite pleased with them.

Originally Posted by pcsgrp

Last year I had problems with the lights when the temps got gold. I think the problem is that single blade connectors don't connect well with the oem connector that fits on the back of the oem bulb. When it gets cold that connection loses its physical connectivity and prevents a good solid mechanical connection. What I did was buy a twin blade H7 connector on amazon, got some spade connectors and made a good mechanical connection between the end of the wires coming form the the HID bulb and when I connected it to the oem bulb connector not only did it fit tighter but I was able to zip tie the connectors together and made a solid connection. Have not had a misfire since that time. Was out in the mid-west last week and when I got up to head back east, the temp outside was 2 deg. Several years ago I was in Vermont and the temp hit -30 deg F where nothing seems to work. When I put on the lights (not automatic like my M) they were very dim for several minutes. However, it didn't matter since the car took at least 10 minutes to warm up. Took another 5 or 10 minutes for any of the digital screens to actually work and I needed to put the car I gear and sit there for the transmission to work. Last year after installing my HIDs I had the cold weather problem up in Canada which is what got me thinking about the old coefficient of expansion of the different metals and how much smaller the HID connector blades were. Hope my solution works for you.