Those are excellent prices and better than you can do mail order. I think that dealers normally charge at least $99 for front pads. Sensors are at least $6 or more.

Normally, Internet sites have pictures but in the case of brake pads, there are none. Here's one well known site.

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...Children=false

And a better one with some prices...

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...tion=000480312

The pads you are getting from the dealer are probably Pagid's. In my experience they are smoother than Textars. I'd stick with what you are getting.

 

Catelo,

I did not have the "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" message on my car when I changed brakes so I cannot answer that question for you. I will say that you should not attempt to open the doors during the brake job, even with the SBC disconnected. I locked the doors, put the key in my pocket, and then jacked the car up. It was just not worth the risk, not to mention there is really no need to open the doors while you are replacing the brakes. The factory alarm will sound when you lower the car so have your keys handy as you are coming down from the jack.

I used Pagid brake pads that I bought from SportBrakes for $85 and $65 for the front and rear. These pads seem to create less dust than the factory pads that I removed. If you are just doing pads (no rotors) you will be surprised at how easy this job is. Good luck to you and let us know if the how you address the brake wear indicator.

 

Well just completed the brake job... wow super easy.. took me about an 1 to do all corners. ( I have to mention that I did have the convenience of a lift at my disposal) I disconnected the SBC as stated here and it all went through very smoothly. Only problem was that the brake wear warning is still on. I have to mention though that I was given the wrong rear sensor so I had to put the old one one wich did seemed to be ok. Not sure if this has anything to do with it. I plan I replacing the sensor tommorrow and hopefully that will get rid of the warning.. Will keep you guys posted.

Thanks for all the help

 

Hey guys, what kind of mileage are you getting on these pads? I suspect it's a lot less than on older Mercedes.

 

My warning went off at approx. the 19000 mile mark. A little less actually.

 

Well to anyone who is interested, I recieved my new rear brake sensor today. I jacked up my car, replaced the old sensor and that was it, "Brake Wear Visit Workshop" warning disappeared. Another job well done thanks to you guys. Hope this helps someone else in the future the way it helped me out.

 

How many miles on the pads? How worn were the pads? Front? Rear?

TIA,
Bud

 

Well like I mentioned before, my warning went off at approx. the 19000 mile mark, a little less actually.

As far as the wear on the pads, all four needed to be replaced and were approx all worn pretty evenly, except for my rear, right brake wich was extremely worn out. I probably only had maybe a day or two before I would have been putting my rotors at risk of serious damage. Wish I had a camera to take photos of the job and old brakes, but some **s hole stole mine so I need to get a new one.

 

Well, I'm glad that it's not hard to replace the pads ourselves. I would hate to have to pay for a dealer to change the pads every 20K. These pads must be really soft to wear so fast.

 

This was the easiest brake job I have EVER done (less than 20 minutes)...and I've done quite a few on different autos. And the cost to do this yourself is astounding ($102 vs $530 dealership quote). Here is a series of photos that may help others in their attempt.

1. Apply the parking brake, pull the hood lever, exit the car and set the key aside.

2. Open the hood a locate the SBC connector

3. Pull up the SBC Clip to unlock the connector


4. Pivot the connector backward to disengage and set aside


5. Lift car and remove tire. This is the before shot


6. Unplug Brake Pad connector and sensor


7. Tap out holding pins (I used a thin drill bit and a hammer to do this)


8. Remove pad holder


9. Compress piston using c-clamp or carefully with pliers (Not much force needed). DO THIS WHILE OLD PADS ARE STILL IN THE ASSEMBLY


10. Remove pads


11. Insert new pads


12. Re-insert pins


13. Hook pad holder under first pin then press down and insert second pin


14. Replug sensor and connector. I had to used the old one since Mercedesshop did not send that sensor for this side...even though this one is still unbroken I will replace tomorrow after purchase locally


15. All Done



Hope this helps someone!

 

great job!! could you show how you diconnect the sbc again. pic didn't show up thanks.

 

How did you lift the car? Is there some place on these cars where you can use a jackstand. If you use the car jack to raise the car, there are no pads for jackstands.

 

mbfan..I will take some additional pictures when I get home for more detail on that but what Iceman instructed earlier in the thread was really descriptive .

BudC...I used a standard run-of-the mill hydraulic 2-ton jack and just do one side at a time

 

Thanks for everyone's help. I changed the pads finally. My car has 34000 miles. I think the old pads should be able to hold up for another 2000-3000 miles but I decided to change them because the brake feels slippy. Anyway, just one thing everybody should take extra step. After you pop the hood and closed the door, you should wait for an hour before start to performing the brake job. The reason is when I unplug the SBC module right after I close the door, the car gave out the red error message - something like the brake is malfunction and increase braking distance. Luckily, I plug back the SBC module and the error go away. Hope the information will help other people. Make sure you put your car back to sleep before work on the car.

 

Ok Guys
I did the brake job as illustrated by the photos in this forum.
It took me one hour to do all four corners.

I HAVE HAD NO WARNING ON THE ON BOARD SERVICE COMPUTER TO SUGEST A BRAKE PROBLEM.

I lifted the hood then I pressed the hood retainers back into there locked postion then disconected the harness on the pump.

I then closed all doors, windows ,sunroof and left the car UNLOCKED AND THEN PUT THE KEY AWAY FROM MY BODY AS NOT ACTIVATE ACCIDENTLY THE CARS SYSTEM.

My mileage was 24,000 and noticed all eight pads were around 75% worn.

I bought original MB pads here in the U.K.costing £98 ($170) thats with trade discount and the sensors were included in the box.....surprise!.

BE VERY CAREFULL ......:

THE CENSORS ON THE FRONTS ARE NOT THE SAME FOR BOTH SIDES.
You will notice drilled holes in the pads ..........Take notice of this as the sensors are differant in size to fit the the holes.

I did notice that one sensor on one side of the car was cut with normal pad wear (thus telling the onboard sys service computer).I guess to calculate the next service period.The other side sensor was un-cut.

There is only one sensor on the rears.

The job was streight foreward as to replacing any other brake pads.

I then pulled the hood release handle as to release the retainers to allow the hood to be droped.

NOW HERE COMES THE HEART ATTACK.

I started the car the instrument panel lit up like a Christmas tree telling me brake failure with sirens sounding.

I then switched the engine off took out the key THEN PUMPED THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR ONE MINUTE AS TO AS TO BRING THE PADS CLOSER TO THE ROTARS......HEY-PRESTO.......JOB DONE.....NO PROBLEMS.

I was quoted £300 (Thats over $500) by my local MB to replace all four corners.........this is hell of a big saving.

Off course I could have saved more on the none genuine MB pads by as much of 50%.

Hope this tells you guys as how not to get riped off.

Love my E320 CDI

Les.......Chesterfield U.K.

 

Why you don't disconnet the negative in the battery and after the SBC?

Doing this I think you wont have error messages.

Can someone post the pics that have error?

Best Regards.

 

Rubensans,

There are many computers in the W211 that require constant power from the batteries. There is a small battery under the cabin air filter that provides backup power when the main battery in the trunk is disconnected. If both batteries are disconnected, many of the computers will register errors that will have to be cleared.

Jim

 

Then I won't disconnect any battery.

As I can see the key is close the car and then disconnect SBC; do the work, reconnect SBC, and open the car, no?

Best Regards.

 

You are right on. Normally one would not venture into the car during a brake job anyway, here it is just more important not to do so. Pop the hood, close the door and lock it, put the key in the house, open the hood and disconnect the SBC. From there on out it is a standard brake job. It's good to see that others have added to this thread and saved all of us some hard earned money. I have 30,000 miles on my "new" brakes and they are holding up well. The rotors are starting to show some wear but the pads look like new still. I believe the Pagid pads will last longer than the MB pads but the rotors, due to the nature of the system, will still wear fairly fast.

 

Could someone send me the set of pics for the DIY? Half of the ones posted are Red Xs.

 

I agree! Me too!

 

I would gladly edit that post but I am not sure how to. Any ideas?!?!?

 

If you don't have the [EDIT] button on your original post, consider cut~n~paste into a new post. (please? )

(pretty please?)..
(with cheese on top?)..

 

The "Edit" button is a button located next to the "Quote" button on your newly posted item, that disappears after a certain timed interval. (Less than 18-24 hours). A poster who wants to edit his own post has the ability to do so, by going back to his own post and clicking the "Edit" button. After that time period passes the button is gone and so is the chance to edit your post.

 

You don't need to edit the post; repost the pics here.

Best Regards.