does anyone know of a good source for ordering front and rear cross drilled rotors and pads for a 03 E500?

Thank You VERY Much for this post! It's good to see that some services can still be performed by us, the consumer.

Here's a couple pictures of the SBC, for those that asked. As posted earlier, it's located in the front passenger side of the engine compartment, right in front:

Side View:



Top View:



You can see the black plug in both views.

I tried to repost and reference the images but they still don't work so here is the URL for the photo album. There are titles and the respective step number after them. Hope this helps!

http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2116413897

I am in the middle of doing a rear brake pad & rotor replacement on my wifes C240. The pads have been squeeling for a while and are worn a bit.

I tend to buy an extra set of rotors for all my cars, so when brake replacement time come around I can have new pads with new rotors.

I have 2 problems:


1. I cannot get the rear rotor off. I have the 5 lug bolts removed, and the little T30 TORX screw removed as well. I've been spraying the rotor / hub area with WD40 for hours now, and I cannot get the rotor off. Do I have to remove the axle nut and remove the rotor and hub together as an ***'y? If so, what is the procedure for tightening the hub?

2. I started this brake job thinking it was like any other brake job that I have done on all of my cars over the years. When I was searching the archives to see how to remove the rear rotors, I notice all this stuff about not opening the door, removeing the SBC and taking the keys away from the car (all three of which I didn't do). Now that I removed the SBC, I cannot shift the car into neutral for some reason, so I cant adjust the parking break adjuster to loosen tension of the pbrake ***'y. I will try connecing the SBC back up.

Help please.

ROCNDAV,

Some rotors are temperamental. you have removed the correct items...just use a rubber hammer and pound evenly around the edges of the rotor, in the direction of removal...spray some more...wait a few minutes...and pound some more.

Sorry about the second problem..can't offer any advice on that one ...what did MB say when you told them?

great idea, can you tell me where you got the rotors and did you say you changed the calipers too.

You should know that if your parking brake is on, you will have a really hard time removing the rear rotors!

Just FYI

thanks for the help.

Just completed replacing all 4 corners on my 2004 E320 about 10days ago.
I guess I did it right, so far, no problems!

From autopartswarehouse.com, I ordered:
Parts Ordered
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set See Note Price: $55.73 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-109959

Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $83.16 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-140487
plus the sensors and caliper slide lube.

Total cost was $169.97.

It took me about 2 1/2 hours. I took my time, (washed the wheels, wheel wells) plus I had my 6 year old "helping".

The hardest part was breaking loose the bolts for the rear calipers. Glad I had my air impact wrench and sockets.

Also, the front calipers on my 2004 (build date Nov2003) E320 looked different than the pictures posted by burkett. On my front calipers, there are two bolts that attach the top of the caliper that covers the pads. I disassembled those to get to the pads. Burkett's pix showed 2 pins with a retainer.

The first step was to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow-away. Never had a problem with the alarm.
When I was finished, I pushed on the brake pedal with the engine off and SBC still disconnected. Wow, no hydraulic resistance at all. Pedal went all the way to the floor. The center dash display went all red with brake warnings. Just thought I'd try it to see what I had if the SBC did fail -- nothing!
So, I reconnected the SBC, cranked the engine, pressed the pedal. Turned off the engine, restarted and all was fine. No warnings, so I took the car around the neighborhood to do the easy burn in drive followed by a couple of aggressive forward and backward stops. No problems.
One observation, during the first couple of days or normal driving, I had slightly more pedal travel than before the brake job. Thought I might have to bleed the brakes for some reason, but, after the 3rd day of normal driving, the solid pedal feel returned.

Comparing this to other cars that I have changed brake pads on, this is relatively easy if you remember to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow away alarm.

Or, consider this procedure

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/se...RDiagnosis.pdf

$365 for just pad replacement,, then I found this website.

Fool me once shame on you,, fool me twice shame on me..

I do brakes on my Vet with drilled / slotted as non issue pie o cake work.

I took the car in for normal service under the Free service for first 50K miles when I picked it up the bill was $365 for just pads. Didn't even call and ask, just did the work . I paid in full, but next time .. Jim

Hi Dal Benz,
I am in the process of scheduling to do my brakes on '04 E320, you mentioned that the front calipers are different to the pictures posted by Burkett. Do you have any pictures of the bolts. From your procedure it is not required to lock the car, just disconnect SBC plug and deactivate tow away alarm? just wanted to confirm.

Thanks

Excellent advice posted to change Brake pads from burkett & dalbenz actually the bolt on calipers were very easy to remove. Replaced with OE Pads front and rear from local dealer. Front pads came as a set with sensors, $140.00 for front and rear pads, used a friends lift and finished the job under 45 minutes.
Any advice or postings on replacing rotors?

Does any one know how to bleed the SBC system withou the use of the Star Diagnosis system?

Great thread and information. I just paid $850 for brakes / pads and only rear rotors. Next time I will do it myself. Jim

Jim,

When I did my rear pads/rotors, the parts came to about $280. Granted the E500 have vented discs in the rear (E320 have a single disc), you probably would have come under the $350 range. Be patient, you'll have a chance to do the fronts some day and save some $$$.

Regards,
paul....

Good instructional info in these forums. I just changed my front brake pads on my e500. Couldn't be easier. After disconnecting the SBC, it took maybe 1 hour to change out the two front wheels.

Unplug SBC, unbolt and remove 1st wheel, drink a beer...

Disconnect sensor, hammer out pins with a punch, compress calipers (impressively easy to compress), drink a beer...

Replace old pads with new, replace pins, done. Drink a beer...

Repeat for the other side.

I'm not the most inclined mechanic either... but with some well written instructions, a six pack of beer and an hour of free time... Very satsifying experience.

Danged what do I do with the 4 remaining beers. vettdvr

vettdvr,

If you follow the instructions layed out very carefully... you'll be done with ALL six beers by the time you've finished both sides.

Maybe a silly question, however, if the ignition is off why does the SBC have to be disconnected ? Is it constantly powered and, if so, doesn't that put a drain on one or both batteries ?

As I understand the system with power on the SBC system will apply pressure if certain conditions are met. (I don't have the flowchart/logic diagrams). So If you get in the car insert the key,, the SBC (could / might ) activate applying pressure to the pads. If you were doing a brake job and had a finger between the piston in the caliper and the hydraulics activated you might find yourself missing parts on completion of the job.

Note I use could / might vs. should / will. because I don't have all the logic information. Hope this helps you understand. Jim

The SBC activates even when you open the door, remember that familiar noise after you opened the door. But the system is not always on as you thought. Therefore it is mandatory to deactivate the SBC before working on the brakes. By the way, are you a Terp? I gradually from Maryland years ago.

Hi Flash...thanks for the info.

Yes re being a Terp. Years ago as well. I was a senior when Gary Williams was a soph. !!

i live in spain and getting any information from mb is imposible.
i have a small fast fit center and when i had to change pads on a w211 i did it the normal way...took wheels of and pushed calipers back refitted pads..
then came the scary part,i moved the car and the pedal just went to the floor.
i left the car for about 15 min and then everything was ok.
so my question is ...when you disconect the sbc then reconect it do you have to wait for the breaks to ajust themselves ?