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- Mercedes Benz E Class How to Replace Brake pads/calipers/rotors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
W211 DIY Brake Job
#52
Thank You VERY Much for this post! It's good to see that some services can still be performed by us, the consumer.
Here's a couple pictures of the SBC, for those that asked. As posted earlier, it's located in the front passenger side of the engine compartment, right in front:
Side View:
Top View:
You can see the black plug in both views.
Here's a couple pictures of the SBC, for those that asked. As posted earlier, it's located in the front passenger side of the engine compartment, right in front:
Side View:
Top View:
You can see the black plug in both views.
#53
Re-post
I tried to repost and reference the images but they still don't work so here is the URL for the photo album. There are titles and the respective step number after them. Hope this helps!
http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2116413897
http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2116413897
#54
Heeelllllp
I am in the middle of doing a rear brake pad & rotor replacement on my wifes C240. The pads have been squeeling for a while and are worn a bit.
I tend to buy an extra set of rotors for all my cars, so when brake replacement time come around I can have new pads with new rotors.
I have 2 problems:
1. I cannot get the rear rotor off. I have the 5 lug bolts removed, and the little T30 TORX screw removed as well. I've been spraying the rotor / hub area with WD40 for hours now, and I cannot get the rotor off. Do I have to remove the axle nut and remove the rotor and hub together as an ***'y? If so, what is the procedure for tightening the hub?
2. I started this brake job thinking it was like any other brake job that I have done on all of my cars over the years. When I was searching the archives to see how to remove the rear rotors, I notice all this stuff about not opening the door, removeing the SBC and taking the keys away from the car (all three of which I didn't do). Now that I removed the SBC, I cannot shift the car into neutral for some reason, so I cant adjust the parking break adjuster to loosen tension of the pbrake ***'y. I will try connecing the SBC back up.
Help please.
I tend to buy an extra set of rotors for all my cars, so when brake replacement time come around I can have new pads with new rotors.
I have 2 problems:
1. I cannot get the rear rotor off. I have the 5 lug bolts removed, and the little T30 TORX screw removed as well. I've been spraying the rotor / hub area with WD40 for hours now, and I cannot get the rotor off. Do I have to remove the axle nut and remove the rotor and hub together as an ***'y? If so, what is the procedure for tightening the hub?
2. I started this brake job thinking it was like any other brake job that I have done on all of my cars over the years. When I was searching the archives to see how to remove the rear rotors, I notice all this stuff about not opening the door, removeing the SBC and taking the keys away from the car (all three of which I didn't do). Now that I removed the SBC, I cannot shift the car into neutral for some reason, so I cant adjust the parking break adjuster to loosen tension of the pbrake ***'y. I will try connecing the SBC back up.
Help please.
#55
Get your Rubber Hammer Out
ROCNDAV,
Some rotors are temperamental. you have removed the correct items...just use a rubber hammer and pound evenly around the edges of the rotor, in the direction of removal...spray some more...wait a few minutes...and pound some more.
Sorry about the second problem..can't offer any advice on that one ...what did MB say when you told them?
Some rotors are temperamental. you have removed the correct items...just use a rubber hammer and pound evenly around the edges of the rotor, in the direction of removal...spray some more...wait a few minutes...and pound some more.
Sorry about the second problem..can't offer any advice on that one ...what did MB say when you told them?
#57
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Originally Posted by dacollector
does anyone know of a good source for ordering front and rear cross drilled rotors and pads for a 03 E500?
#58
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04 E320 4 Matic, 95 Audi S6, 99 Carrera 4 Cabrio, 12 Fiat 500 Sport, 00 BMW R1200C 10, BMW R1200R
Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
I am in the middle of doing a rear brake pad & rotor replacement on my wifes C240. The pads have been squeeling for a while and are worn a bit.
I tend to buy an extra set of rotors for all my cars, so when brake replacement time come around I can have new pads with new rotors.
I have 2 problems:
1. I cannot get the rear rotor off. I have the 5 lug bolts removed, and the little T30 TORX screw removed as well. I've been spraying the rotor / hub area with WD40 for hours now, and I cannot get the rotor off. Do I have to remove the axle nut and remove the rotor and hub together as an ***'y? If so, what is the procedure for tightening the hub?
2. I started this brake job thinking it was like any other brake job that I have done on all of my cars over the years. When I was searching the archives to see how to remove the rear rotors, I notice all this stuff about not opening the door, removeing the SBC and taking the keys away from the car (all three of which I didn't do). Now that I removed the SBC, I cannot shift the car into neutral for some reason, so I cant adjust the parking break adjuster to loosen tension of the pbrake ***'y. I will try connecing the SBC back up.
Help please.
I tend to buy an extra set of rotors for all my cars, so when brake replacement time come around I can have new pads with new rotors.
I have 2 problems:
1. I cannot get the rear rotor off. I have the 5 lug bolts removed, and the little T30 TORX screw removed as well. I've been spraying the rotor / hub area with WD40 for hours now, and I cannot get the rotor off. Do I have to remove the axle nut and remove the rotor and hub together as an ***'y? If so, what is the procedure for tightening the hub?
2. I started this brake job thinking it was like any other brake job that I have done on all of my cars over the years. When I was searching the archives to see how to remove the rear rotors, I notice all this stuff about not opening the door, removeing the SBC and taking the keys away from the car (all three of which I didn't do). Now that I removed the SBC, I cannot shift the car into neutral for some reason, so I cant adjust the parking break adjuster to loosen tension of the pbrake ***'y. I will try connecing the SBC back up.
Help please.
Just FYI
#59
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13 E350 , 12 BMW 328i
Originally Posted by RJC
#60
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2004 E320; 2001 Jaguar VDP
Just completed replacing all 4 corners on my 2004 E320 about 10days ago.
I guess I did it right, so far, no problems!
From autopartswarehouse.com, I ordered:
Parts Ordered
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set See Note Price: $55.73 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-109959
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $83.16 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-140487
plus the sensors and caliper slide lube.
Total cost was $169.97.
It took me about 2 1/2 hours. I took my time, (washed the wheels, wheel wells) plus I had my 6 year old "helping".
The hardest part was breaking loose the bolts for the rear calipers. Glad I had my air impact wrench and sockets.
Also, the front calipers on my 2004 (build date Nov2003) E320 looked different than the pictures posted by burkett. On my front calipers, there are two bolts that attach the top of the caliper that covers the pads. I disassembled those to get to the pads. Burkett's pix showed 2 pins with a retainer.
The first step was to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow-away. Never had a problem with the alarm.
When I was finished, I pushed on the brake pedal with the engine off and SBC still disconnected. Wow, no hydraulic resistance at all. Pedal went all the way to the floor. The center dash display went all red with brake warnings. Just thought I'd try it to see what I had if the SBC did fail -- nothing!
So, I reconnected the SBC, cranked the engine, pressed the pedal. Turned off the engine, restarted and all was fine. No warnings, so I took the car around the neighborhood to do the easy burn in drive followed by a couple of aggressive forward and backward stops. No problems.
One observation, during the first couple of days or normal driving, I had slightly more pedal travel than before the brake job. Thought I might have to bleed the brakes for some reason, but, after the 3rd day of normal driving, the solid pedal feel returned.
Comparing this to other cars that I have changed brake pads on, this is relatively easy if you remember to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow away alarm.
I guess I did it right, so far, no problems!
From autopartswarehouse.com, I ordered:
Parts Ordered
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set See Note Price: $55.73 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-109959
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $83.16 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-140487
plus the sensors and caliper slide lube.
Total cost was $169.97.
It took me about 2 1/2 hours. I took my time, (washed the wheels, wheel wells) plus I had my 6 year old "helping".
The hardest part was breaking loose the bolts for the rear calipers. Glad I had my air impact wrench and sockets.
Also, the front calipers on my 2004 (build date Nov2003) E320 looked different than the pictures posted by burkett. On my front calipers, there are two bolts that attach the top of the caliper that covers the pads. I disassembled those to get to the pads. Burkett's pix showed 2 pins with a retainer.
The first step was to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow-away. Never had a problem with the alarm.
When I was finished, I pushed on the brake pedal with the engine off and SBC still disconnected. Wow, no hydraulic resistance at all. Pedal went all the way to the floor. The center dash display went all red with brake warnings. Just thought I'd try it to see what I had if the SBC did fail -- nothing!
So, I reconnected the SBC, cranked the engine, pressed the pedal. Turned off the engine, restarted and all was fine. No warnings, so I took the car around the neighborhood to do the easy burn in drive followed by a couple of aggressive forward and backward stops. No problems.
One observation, during the first couple of days or normal driving, I had slightly more pedal travel than before the brake job. Thought I might have to bleed the brakes for some reason, but, after the 3rd day of normal driving, the solid pedal feel returned.
Comparing this to other cars that I have changed brake pads on, this is relatively easy if you remember to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow away alarm.
#62
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03 E500 and Corvette
Originally Posted by BudC
Well, I'm glad that it's not hard to replace the pads ourselves. I would hate to have to pay for a dealer to change the pads every 20K. These pads must be really soft to wear so fast.
Fool me once shame on you,, fool me twice shame on me..
I do brakes on my Vet with drilled / slotted as non issue pie o cake work.
I took the car in for normal service under the Free service for first 50K miles when I picked it up the bill was $365 for just pads. Didn't even call and ask, just did the work . I paid in full, but next time .. Jim
#63
Originally Posted by DalBenz
Just completed replacing all 4 corners on my 2004 E320 about 10days ago.
I guess I did it right, so far, no problems!
From autopartswarehouse.com, I ordered:
Parts Ordered
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set See Note Price: $55.73 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-109959
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $83.16 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-140487
plus the sensors and caliper slide lube.
Total cost was $169.97.
It took me about 2 1/2 hours. I took my time, (washed the wheels, wheel wells) plus I had my 6 year old "helping".
The hardest part was breaking loose the bolts for the rear calipers. Glad I had my air impact wrench and sockets.
Also, the front calipers on my 2004 (build date Nov2003) E320 looked different than the pictures posted by burkett. On my front calipers, there are two bolts that attach the top of the caliper that covers the pads. I disassembled those to get to the pads. Burkett's pix showed 2 pins with a retainer.
The first step was to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow-away. Never had a problem with the alarm.
When I was finished, I pushed on the brake pedal with the engine off and SBC still disconnected. Wow, no hydraulic resistance at all. Pedal went all the way to the floor. The center dash display went all red with brake warnings. Just thought I'd try it to see what I had if the SBC did fail -- nothing!
So, I reconnected the SBC, cranked the engine, pressed the pedal. Turned off the engine, restarted and all was fine. No warnings, so I took the car around the neighborhood to do the easy burn in drive followed by a couple of aggressive forward and backward stops. No problems.
One observation, during the first couple of days or normal driving, I had slightly more pedal travel than before the brake job. Thought I might have to bleed the brakes for some reason, but, after the 3rd day of normal driving, the solid pedal feel returned.
Comparing this to other cars that I have changed brake pads on, this is relatively easy if you remember to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow away alarm.
I guess I did it right, so far, no problems!
From autopartswarehouse.com, I ordered:
Parts Ordered
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set See Note Price: $55.73 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-109959
Mercedes Benz 2004 Pagid (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $83.16 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-140487
plus the sensors and caliper slide lube.
Total cost was $169.97.
It took me about 2 1/2 hours. I took my time, (washed the wheels, wheel wells) plus I had my 6 year old "helping".
The hardest part was breaking loose the bolts for the rear calipers. Glad I had my air impact wrench and sockets.
Also, the front calipers on my 2004 (build date Nov2003) E320 looked different than the pictures posted by burkett. On my front calipers, there are two bolts that attach the top of the caliper that covers the pads. I disassembled those to get to the pads. Burkett's pix showed 2 pins with a retainer.
The first step was to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow-away. Never had a problem with the alarm.
When I was finished, I pushed on the brake pedal with the engine off and SBC still disconnected. Wow, no hydraulic resistance at all. Pedal went all the way to the floor. The center dash display went all red with brake warnings. Just thought I'd try it to see what I had if the SBC did fail -- nothing!
So, I reconnected the SBC, cranked the engine, pressed the pedal. Turned off the engine, restarted and all was fine. No warnings, so I took the car around the neighborhood to do the easy burn in drive followed by a couple of aggressive forward and backward stops. No problems.
One observation, during the first couple of days or normal driving, I had slightly more pedal travel than before the brake job. Thought I might have to bleed the brakes for some reason, but, after the 3rd day of normal driving, the solid pedal feel returned.
Comparing this to other cars that I have changed brake pads on, this is relatively easy if you remember to disconnect the SBC and turn off the tow away alarm.
I am in the process of scheduling to do my brakes on '04 E320, you mentioned that the front calipers are different to the pictures posted by Burkett. Do you have any pictures of the bolts. From your procedure it is not required to lock the car, just disconnect SBC plug and deactivate tow away alarm? just wanted to confirm.
Thanks
#64
2004 E320 Brakes
Excellent advice posted to change Brake pads from burkett & dalbenz actually the bolt on calipers were very easy to remove. Replaced with OE Pads front and rear from local dealer. Front pads came as a set with sensors, $140.00 for front and rear pads, used a friends lift and finished the job under 45 minutes.
Any advice or postings on replacing rotors?
Any advice or postings on replacing rotors?
#67
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03 E320 -wife's car now; 07 Porsche Boxster S - my toy
Originally Posted by vettdvr
Great thread and information. I just paid $850 for brakes / pads and only rear rotors. Next time I will do it myself. Jim
When I did my rear pads/rotors, the parts came to about $280. Granted the E500 have vented discs in the rear (E320 have a single disc), you probably would have come under the $350 range. Be patient, you'll have a chance to do the fronts some day and save some $$$.
Regards,
paul....
#68
Junior Member
Good instructional info in these forums. I just changed my front brake pads on my e500. Couldn't be easier. After disconnecting the SBC, it took maybe 1 hour to change out the two front wheels.
Unplug SBC, unbolt and remove 1st wheel, drink a beer...
Disconnect sensor, hammer out pins with a punch, compress calipers (impressively easy to compress), drink a beer...
Replace old pads with new, replace pins, done. Drink a beer...
Repeat for the other side.
I'm not the most inclined mechanic either... but with some well written instructions, a six pack of beer and an hour of free time... Very satsifying experience.
Unplug SBC, unbolt and remove 1st wheel, drink a beer...
Disconnect sensor, hammer out pins with a punch, compress calipers (impressively easy to compress), drink a beer...
Replace old pads with new, replace pins, done. Drink a beer...
Repeat for the other side.
I'm not the most inclined mechanic either... but with some well written instructions, a six pack of beer and an hour of free time... Very satsifying experience.
#69
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03 E500 and Corvette
Originally Posted by beanieBenz
Good instructional info in these forums. I just changed my front brake pads on my e500. Couldn't be easier. After disconnecting the SBC, it took maybe 1 hour to change out the two front wheels.
Unplug SBC, unbolt and remove 1st wheel, drink a beer...
Disconnect sensor, hammer out pins with a punch, compress calipers (impressively easy to compress), drink a beer...
Replace old pads with new, replace pins, done. Drink a beer...
Repeat for the other side.
I'm not the most inclined mechanic either... but with some well written instructions, a six pack of beer and an hour of free time... Very satsifying experience.
Unplug SBC, unbolt and remove 1st wheel, drink a beer...
Disconnect sensor, hammer out pins with a punch, compress calipers (impressively easy to compress), drink a beer...
Replace old pads with new, replace pins, done. Drink a beer...
Repeat for the other side.
I'm not the most inclined mechanic either... but with some well written instructions, a six pack of beer and an hour of free time... Very satsifying experience.
#70
Junior Member
Originally Posted by vettdvr
Danged what do I do with the 4 remaining beers. vettdvr
If you follow the instructions layed out very carefully... you'll be done with ALL six beers by the time you've finished both sides.
#71
MBWorld Fanatic!
Maybe a silly question, however, if the ignition is off why does the SBC have to be disconnected ? Is it constantly powered and, if so, doesn't that put a drain on one or both batteries ?
#72
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03 E500 and Corvette
Note I use could / might vs. should / will. because I don't have all the logic information. Hope this helps you understand. Jim
#73
Super Member
The SBC activates even when you open the door, remember that familiar noise after you opened the door. But the system is not always on as you thought. Therefore it is mandatory to deactivate the SBC before working on the brakes. By the way, are you a Terp? I gradually from Maryland years ago.
#75
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sorry i own a volvo but saving for a merc
what did i do wrong
i live in spain and getting any information from mb is imposible.
i have a small fast fit center and when i had to change pads on a w211 i did it the normal way...took wheels of and pushed calipers back refitted pads..
then came the scary part,i moved the car and the pedal just went to the floor.
i left the car for about 15 min and then everything was ok.
so my question is ...when you disconect the sbc then reconect it do you have to wait for the breaks to ajust themselves ?
i have a small fast fit center and when i had to change pads on a w211 i did it the normal way...took wheels of and pushed calipers back refitted pads..
then came the scary part,i moved the car and the pedal just went to the floor.
i left the car for about 15 min and then everything was ok.
so my question is ...when you disconect the sbc then reconect it do you have to wait for the breaks to ajust themselves ?