Engine Swap question
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: NYC / Northern NJ
02' C230 Coupe & 92' 190e 2.6
Engine Swap question
Hey all,
I was wondering if this engine would fit into my 92 190e 2.6. Also how difficult would the swap be?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-300...tZXRqK&vxp=mtr
Thanks!
I was wondering if this engine would fit into my 92 190e 2.6. Also how difficult would the swap be?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-300...tZXRqK&vxp=mtr
Thanks!
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 47
Likes: 11
W126 500 SEC, W208 CLK55 AMG (TRACK CAR), W163 ML350, W164 ML500, 2009 W204 C63 (TRACK CAR, 190E 2.6
Engine Swap Question
Hey Kaman,
A M103, 3.0 is a direct fit into a W201 Chassis.
My son and I did exactly the same swap into a 1989 W201 2.6.
I haven't got a photo handy at the moment however we later swapped a W202
M104 C36 Engine into the same Chassis (see attached photos) with no fitting
problems.
The only difference in the fittment was the need to remove the oil breather crossover pipe for hood clearance.
We also made up our own ITB set up which really turned that engine into a monster!
As you know, the W201 2.6 has the removable top radiator support which once removed gives you easy access to the engine bay.
If you decide to do the 2.6/3.0 swap you will notice a difference in power and consider also adding the ITB's which will give you a lot of extra go.
At the moment we are just starting our next W201 2.6 Engine swap conversion.
We are swapping the 2.6 for a W203, M112k Engine and Transmission from a C32 AMG (see attached photos).
The car will be an EVO 1 clone when complete with a little extra punch from the M112k Engine and Transmission complete with combined Touch Shift and Paddle Shift.
The Diff is being swapped for a Wavetrac LSD and the Tailshaft will be from a C32.
TA Coilover suspension has been ordered and the Brake Calipers are from a W163 ML500 with 340mm two piece disks.
The Wheels are original brand new "Old Stock" EVO 2's, 17 X 8.25 and the EVO 1 Carbon Fiber Body Kit, which arrived a few hours ago, was made by Hedehog Tuning and Motorsport. You can see the body kit at hedgehog-tuning.com website.
Apologies for hijacking your thread but I was just about to post the info anyway.
Good luck with the swap
A M103, 3.0 is a direct fit into a W201 Chassis.
My son and I did exactly the same swap into a 1989 W201 2.6.
I haven't got a photo handy at the moment however we later swapped a W202
M104 C36 Engine into the same Chassis (see attached photos) with no fitting
problems.
The only difference in the fittment was the need to remove the oil breather crossover pipe for hood clearance.
We also made up our own ITB set up which really turned that engine into a monster!
As you know, the W201 2.6 has the removable top radiator support which once removed gives you easy access to the engine bay.
If you decide to do the 2.6/3.0 swap you will notice a difference in power and consider also adding the ITB's which will give you a lot of extra go.
At the moment we are just starting our next W201 2.6 Engine swap conversion.
We are swapping the 2.6 for a W203, M112k Engine and Transmission from a C32 AMG (see attached photos).
The car will be an EVO 1 clone when complete with a little extra punch from the M112k Engine and Transmission complete with combined Touch Shift and Paddle Shift.
The Diff is being swapped for a Wavetrac LSD and the Tailshaft will be from a C32.
TA Coilover suspension has been ordered and the Brake Calipers are from a W163 ML500 with 340mm two piece disks.
The Wheels are original brand new "Old Stock" EVO 2's, 17 X 8.25 and the EVO 1 Carbon Fiber Body Kit, which arrived a few hours ago, was made by Hedehog Tuning and Motorsport. You can see the body kit at hedgehog-tuning.com website.
Apologies for hijacking your thread but I was just about to post the info anyway.
Good luck with the swap
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 47
Likes: 11
W126 500 SEC, W208 CLK55 AMG (TRACK CAR), W163 ML350, W164 ML500, 2009 W204 C63 (TRACK CAR, 190E 2.6
(Lost pict 11 ???) Pict 13.
BTW, You may have noticed the Sump and Exhaust Manifold are not the standard kit found on the C32, M112k Engine.
Both the Sump and Exhaust are off a W208, CLK320.
The CLK Sump allows clearance of the W201 Cross Member and the CLK Exhaust "Wraps Around" the Bell housing and allows for clearance of the stock W201 Steering Box.
BTW, You may have noticed the Sump and Exhaust Manifold are not the standard kit found on the C32, M112k Engine.
Both the Sump and Exhaust are off a W208, CLK320.
The CLK Sump allows clearance of the W201 Cross Member and the CLK Exhaust "Wraps Around" the Bell housing and allows for clearance of the stock W201 Steering Box.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 47
Likes: 11
W126 500 SEC, W208 CLK55 AMG (TRACK CAR), W163 ML350, W164 ML500, 2009 W204 C63 (TRACK CAR, 190E 2.6
Pict 14.
The M112k Engine's Sump is a two piece unit with oil "storage" both front and rear.
The C32 Cross Member sits between the two sections and the Oil Pump has two pickups, therefore the Pump is swapped as well.
The Pump we used is from a 2002 ML320.
The original M112k Pump pumps more oil than a standard M112 C320 unit so therefore you need to increase oil flow from the 320 pump.
You can see in the next Picts we put a extra hole in the stock oil pickup.
The M112k Pump drive sprocket is larger than the stock M112 sprocket (by two teeth) therefore the 320 Pump drives faster.
When I tested the Oil flow of each unit I found the difference to be negligible.
The M112k Engine's Sump is a two piece unit with oil "storage" both front and rear.
The C32 Cross Member sits between the two sections and the Oil Pump has two pickups, therefore the Pump is swapped as well.
The Pump we used is from a 2002 ML320.
The original M112k Pump pumps more oil than a standard M112 C320 unit so therefore you need to increase oil flow from the 320 pump.
You can see in the next Picts we put a extra hole in the stock oil pickup.
The M112k Pump drive sprocket is larger than the stock M112 sprocket (by two teeth) therefore the 320 Pump drives faster.
When I tested the Oil flow of each unit I found the difference to be negligible.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: NYC / Northern NJ
02' C230 Coupe & 92' 190e 2.6
wow great builds, those things are sleepers!
Would you say the M103 3.0 is a 100% direct fit with the electronics, the mounts etc? I had bent the valves on the original engine that i have and was just thinking of replacing out the whole thing with this motors only if it was a "plug and play" type of swap.
Would you say the M103 3.0 is a 100% direct fit with the electronics, the mounts etc? I had bent the valves on the original engine that i have and was just thinking of replacing out the whole thing with this motors only if it was a "plug and play" type of swap.
Last edited by kmancoupe230; Sep 19, 2017 at 10:52 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 47
Likes: 11
W126 500 SEC, W208 CLK55 AMG (TRACK CAR), W163 ML350, W164 ML500, 2009 W204 C63 (TRACK CAR, 190E 2.6
The Engine will slip right in, it's a direct fit.
The only Electronics that might be different is the EZL Ignition Module.
The part # on the 2.6 is. 008 545 61 32.
This EZL is used on W201 / 124 /126. I'm sure it will work on the 3.0, I just can't remember what I used. They are on EBay for around $40.00.
Engine Mounts are the same and of course your 2.6 Tranny will bolt directly on.
When you have the new Engine be sure to check and change if necessary, the front and rear engine seals (cheap and easy job) and the Water Pump---a lot easier to change with the engine out.
All the Engine ancillaries including the water pump are a direct swap..
The only Electronics that might be different is the EZL Ignition Module.
The part # on the 2.6 is. 008 545 61 32.
This EZL is used on W201 / 124 /126. I'm sure it will work on the 3.0, I just can't remember what I used. They are on EBay for around $40.00.
Engine Mounts are the same and of course your 2.6 Tranny will bolt directly on.
When you have the new Engine be sure to check and change if necessary, the front and rear engine seals (cheap and easy job) and the Water Pump---a lot easier to change with the engine out.
All the Engine ancillaries including the water pump are a direct swap..
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: NYC / Northern NJ
02' C230 Coupe & 92' 190e 2.6
How difficult is it to pull the engine and transmission i.e. hours and tools. i have a pretty handy toolset with over 200 pieces (sockets, adapters power tools etc)?
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 47
Likes: 11
W126 500 SEC, W208 CLK55 AMG (TRACK CAR), W163 ML350, W164 ML500, 2009 W204 C63 (TRACK CAR, 190E 2.6
I've tried twice now to send you detailed instructions on the engine removal and each time I hit the "submit" button I get asked to log in again and once I do , my reply is wiped and the site wants me to go round in circles!!!!!!!
I'll have to walk away from it for a while otherwise I end up throwing the frigging computer against the wall!!!!
I'll have to walk away from it for a while otherwise I end up throwing the frigging computer against the wall!!!!
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 47
Likes: 11
W126 500 SEC, W208 CLK55 AMG (TRACK CAR), W163 ML350, W164 ML500, 2009 W204 C63 (TRACK CAR, 190E 2.6
This procedure is what works for me and I'm sure other Forum members will offer their advice.
Main workshop tools needed : hydraulic trolly jack, engine crane/hoist, adjustable engine leveller, four axel stands, assorted socket, ring, open-end and adjustable spanners, screwdrivers etc.
The process will take you approx four hours to remove and the same to reinstall however, if you haven't done this before, take your time and allow two days.
My Process : Jack up the car and support on the four jack stands. Remove the wheels, drain the radiator, remove the front bumper, electric fans, radiator, AC condenser and unbolt the engine mounts. Next step is to jack the car to it's highest position and support on axel stands. Remove the exhaust system, then the tail shaft, disconnect the speedo cable from the tranny, unbolt the ground/earth straps and any other connections you see between the chassis and engine. Lower the rear of the car to its lowest point and support on jack stands. Lift the front of the car by trolly jack (on the crossmember) to it's highest point, support car's weight on the stands and remove the jack. Position the jack under the tranny support mount and unbolt it from the chassis. Now you can lower the tranny slightly as it is pivoted on the engine mounts. Connect the engine crane and leveller to the engine and slightly take the weight of the engine.
Now for a little adjustment via "Trial & Error".
You will need to Lower the tranny on the jack and at the same time (This is where an extra pair of hands will help) Lift the engine in order to achieve an angle of approx 30'. The engine will now clear the front lower radiator support and it's out!
Before installing the "new" engine, it's probably wise to replace the Front & Rear Crank seals, water pump, and any seals/gasket you notice show signs of some leakage. Hope it goes well.
Main workshop tools needed : hydraulic trolly jack, engine crane/hoist, adjustable engine leveller, four axel stands, assorted socket, ring, open-end and adjustable spanners, screwdrivers etc.
The process will take you approx four hours to remove and the same to reinstall however, if you haven't done this before, take your time and allow two days.
My Process : Jack up the car and support on the four jack stands. Remove the wheels, drain the radiator, remove the front bumper, electric fans, radiator, AC condenser and unbolt the engine mounts. Next step is to jack the car to it's highest position and support on axel stands. Remove the exhaust system, then the tail shaft, disconnect the speedo cable from the tranny, unbolt the ground/earth straps and any other connections you see between the chassis and engine. Lower the rear of the car to its lowest point and support on jack stands. Lift the front of the car by trolly jack (on the crossmember) to it's highest point, support car's weight on the stands and remove the jack. Position the jack under the tranny support mount and unbolt it from the chassis. Now you can lower the tranny slightly as it is pivoted on the engine mounts. Connect the engine crane and leveller to the engine and slightly take the weight of the engine.
Now for a little adjustment via "Trial & Error".
You will need to Lower the tranny on the jack and at the same time (This is where an extra pair of hands will help) Lift the engine in order to achieve an angle of approx 30'. The engine will now clear the front lower radiator support and it's out!
Before installing the "new" engine, it's probably wise to replace the Front & Rear Crank seals, water pump, and any seals/gasket you notice show signs of some leakage. Hope it goes well.
