Help with changing brake pads
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1985 190e 2.3l
Help with changing brake pads
I believe I need to replace the brake pads on my 85 190e, I am hearing a squeal when I brake, I think its the sensor kicking in, altho there is no light in the dash lighting up, I am going to take one of the rear wheels off and look later today to see how much pad is left, but if I need to change them how hard is it? I have never done this before, are there any good DIY write-ups online I can use, any help is appreicated.
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
Last edited by RDM3; 07-19-2004 at 01:41 PM.
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1996 C36
On my 87 2.6 there are no wear sensors on the rear brakes. They are very easy to change however. There are two pins which need to be driven out to replace the pads. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.
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1985 190e 2.3l
Originally Posted by mbsickness
On my 87 2.6 there are no wear sensors on the rear brakes. They are very easy to change however. There are two pins which need to be driven out to replace the pads. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.
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1996 C36
Originally Posted by RDM3
So just take the wheel off and pop out the 2 pins and drop the new pads in?
#5
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Another thing to know is that maybe the discs are not smooth anymore. Mine were 17 years old and made sharp squeeling noises. Had to skim the surface to smoothen them up again. BUT the noise came back but weren't as bad. And also you could use those dustless brake pads. Brake dust produces the noise as well.
Changing them shouldn't be too hard. But remember to push back the pistons as mentioned by mbsickness.
Changing them shouldn't be too hard. But remember to push back the pistons as mentioned by mbsickness.
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1985 190e 2.3l
Originally Posted by MTI
Considering the cost of OEM rotors isn't very much, it might be worth considering replacing the rotors while you have everything off.
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'85 190E 2.3-16 '99 C280 '11 GLK350
Unless ground shipping is included by some of the mail/internet order folks, you might want to price them closer to home and see who is cheaper. My preference would be to find ATE or other OEM supplier rotors.
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1986 MB 300E
I would definitely try http://www.autohausaz.com . Prices are lower than thepartsbin.com($22.72 as compared to $32.51 for ATE front rotors) plus free UPS Ground shipping.
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1985 190e 2.3l
Originally Posted by 5double0benz
I would definitely try http://www.autohausaz.com . Prices are lower than thepartsbin.com($22.72 as compared to $32.51 for ATE front rotors) plus free UPS Ground shipping.
#11
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I'm hoping some of those that responded to this post can help me.
I recently did a 4 wheel brake job. I replaced pads and rotors. Prior to the repair, the fronts squealed like the proverbial "stuck pig". I am still getting some squeal from the fronts at the very end of a stop. This usually only happens when I slow gradually. If I come to an abrupt stop, I usually do not get a squeal. It also happens when stopping from reverse.
I applied the anti-squeal paste to the back side of the pads. Should I apply the paste to other contact areas?
Also, the manuals I have identify the caliper retaining bolts as having a special locking compound applied to the threads and that they must be replaced once removed. I bought the new bolts from the a dealer ($3.65/ea) and the "locking compound" just looks like blue Loc-tite to me. Any insight?
I recently did a 4 wheel brake job. I replaced pads and rotors. Prior to the repair, the fronts squealed like the proverbial "stuck pig". I am still getting some squeal from the fronts at the very end of a stop. This usually only happens when I slow gradually. If I come to an abrupt stop, I usually do not get a squeal. It also happens when stopping from reverse.
I applied the anti-squeal paste to the back side of the pads. Should I apply the paste to other contact areas?
Also, the manuals I have identify the caliper retaining bolts as having a special locking compound applied to the threads and that they must be replaced once removed. I bought the new bolts from the a dealer ($3.65/ea) and the "locking compound" just looks like blue Loc-tite to me. Any insight?
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84 190E
Originally Posted by MBGOULART
I'm hoping some of those that responded to this post can help me.
I recently did a 4 wheel brake job. I replaced pads and rotors. Prior to the repair, the fronts squealed like the proverbial "stuck pig". I am still getting some squeal from the fronts at the very end of a stop. This usually only happens when I slow gradually. If I come to an abrupt stop, I usually do not get a squeal. It also happens when stopping from reverse.
I applied the anti-squeal paste to the back side of the pads. Should I apply the paste to other contact areas?
Also, the manuals I have identify the caliper retaining bolts as having a special locking compound applied to the threads and that they must be replaced once removed. I bought the new bolts from the a dealer ($3.65/ea) and the "locking compound" just looks like blue Loc-tite to me. Any insight?
I recently did a 4 wheel brake job. I replaced pads and rotors. Prior to the repair, the fronts squealed like the proverbial "stuck pig". I am still getting some squeal from the fronts at the very end of a stop. This usually only happens when I slow gradually. If I come to an abrupt stop, I usually do not get a squeal. It also happens when stopping from reverse.
I applied the anti-squeal paste to the back side of the pads. Should I apply the paste to other contact areas?
Also, the manuals I have identify the caliper retaining bolts as having a special locking compound applied to the threads and that they must be replaced once removed. I bought the new bolts from the a dealer ($3.65/ea) and the "locking compound" just looks like blue Loc-tite to me. Any insight?
Well did you notice the bend over and grab your ankles in small print
![crazy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/crazy.gif)
with a good quality pad you can get some squeal - that is from the vibration, it can be expected. Do not put any paste on the contact surface. Before you do anything set the pads
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)