Jasonx212

Hi there
so basically I recently took a relative 190E 2.6 that has been sitting for over 20 years the odometer shows 76k km only. anyway i faced few issues trying to restore it.
*Replaced fuel pumps and lines
*Replaced water pump
*Replaced engine coins on both sides of the block
*Replaced Brake discs and pads
*Replaced the radiator and radiator hoses
Currently the car is leaking from the brake booster and brake lines.
also the car starts fine but it stalls if you pressed the gas pedal hard ( anything above 3k rpm) and I can't figure out the issue
if anyone have a clue on what to check for and replace please let me know

190Efan

I don't see where you replaced your fuel filter. When you first started the car, did you start it with the years old fluid still in it or did you get rid of the old fuel and put in fresh fuel before you started the car for the 1st time?

Jasonx212

Hi, Sorry i forgot to mention that. I did change the fuel filter and drained all the old fuel out and fill it with fresh one. I was told it can be a fuel pressure regulator issue or the intake is just clogged with carbon or things that got collected over the years it didn't run but I can't be sure of it.

190Efan

I think I would start by checking the places you think might be clogged first as that could cause the problem .Have you inspected the gas tank to be sure it's not filled with contaminants? Once that's all been ruled out, then you can start to consider other possible causes. Also check all of your engine wiring to be sure it's all in good condition and check to be sure there's no dirt in the connections. That can also cause all kinds of trouble.

Jasonx212

I noticed recently that once i press the gas pedal above 2k rpm the FRP starts shooting out gas from the vacuum valve. I do believe its the cause but yet to fix. unfortunately the FRP for 2.6 costs alot almost 400+ dollars for brand new one.

190Efan

Unfortunately, owning an MB isn't for the financially faint of heart. Maybe see if a local junk yard has an FRP? You need to solve this quickly as gas shooting out from the FRP is a fire hazard.

Jasonx212

I have replaced the FPR and no leakage with the one I have currently. But the issue is still there, I looked up what can causes it yet I couldn't figure it out. I unplugged the EHS and twisted the screw half a turn and now the car can reach full rpm if you pressed it increasingly. My issue in short is that my car boggs and stays at 2k RPM and sound like its popping once I press full throttle.
forgot to mention in the post that the car has a rusted back exhaust and Broken O2 sensor. Can the O2 sensor be the cause of this issue or its something as simple as cleaning the AFM ?.

190Efan

If you know the O2 sensor is broken then you need to replace it. A broken O2 sensor can cause all kinds of trouble. Replace the broken O2 sensor and see what your car does.

insame1

this

Jasonx212

I replaced the o2 sensor yet no any improvements.
what else can cause this issue ?
how can i check for vaccum leaks. or if the injectors are clogged or if the fuel distributer is bad ?
​​​​​​is there anything else i can check ?
how can i balance the throttle to the EHS I couldn't find any info on the internet.

insame1

a leaking brake booster will cause a vacuum leak.

Jasonx212

Hi thx for the reply
i did fix the entire breaking system no leaks there. checked the brake cylinder and brake booster aswell as the vaccum lines
all work just fine with no leakage.
i just ordered new fuel injectors and distributer cap aswell as new spark plugs wires. Hopefully this fixes it.
if you have anything else to look for pls let me know.

insame1

have you pulled the fuel distributor and looked at the rubber piece under that. also the lines to the idle control valve break often. I would replace all the small hard and rubber lines you can find too. only cost about 5 bucks and is worth every penny.

Jasonx212

Update to the current situation.
so i just finished fully painting the car and getting it prepared to be registered.
and all of the sudden i started noticing smoke coming from the car.
i can't differentiate if its a bad head gasket or bad piston rings or both.
the car blows light white bluish smoke from the exhaust, the valve cover breather and the radiator resevoir. increases as you rev the engine. also the oil filler cap had white milk shake just starting to show. (not planning on running the engine untill it gets fixed to avoid nock)
at this point I'm lost because if its the head gasket thats bad then i would change it easily however if its the ring pistons then i should scrap the engine and get another one in.
my question how can i differentiate between a bad piston ring and bad head gasket leak.
also if you recommend any other engine that would be easy to install in the car I'm open to all suggestions.

190Efan

I would start by seeing if there's any oil mixing with your coolant. That's usually a good indicator that the head gasket is bad. The M103 engine is pretty notorious for a bad head gasket. Next, I would go to your local parts store and buy some engine dye to put in your car. Run that dye in your engine and it'll indicate where the oil is leaking from.

Jasonx212

So basically i swapped the entire engine, apparently the engine was rusted inside out and was basically impossible to fix. I found an m103 3.0 engine laying around along with the gearbox that came from w124 300E. The engine and gearbox fitted right in. Small hiccups here and there but nothing major. I was able to drive the car and finally get it registered. However i have a tiny issue I'm facing at the moment and that is the engine is running extremely rich. To the point where it would run fine for an hour or two before it stalls and die. Black smoke coming from the exhaust aswell. When i removed the spark plugs they were covered with carbon ( no oil though ). A quick cleaning got them working just fine. Tested fuel injectors aswell and they seem to be working fine no dripping and even spray pattern. The question is how can i adjust the amount of fuel that goes into the engine. I tried tweaking the EHA valve and the air fuel raito mixture screw along having the multimeter plugged in the X11. But can't seem to be able to decrease the amount of fuel going into the engine. Since i changed it from 2.6 engine to 3.0
​​​​​​side note today i tried to start the car but it seems like no fuel gets to the injectors. But it reaches the fuel distributor. I tried pressing down the fuel distributor plate while someone cranks the car and it just starts fine, but once i release the plate it shutsdown. Basically fuel only reaches the engine when the plate is slightly pressed. What causes it and how it can be fixed ?.

190Efan

Have you checked all of the fuel lines to make sure they're clear and in good shape? Have you checked the fuel filter to make sure it's not clogged? Have you checked all of the engine wiring to make sure it's in good condition?

Jasonx212

​​​​​​Thx for the reply as i mentioned in previous threads. The car is completely renewed from the ground up. Pretty much i changed every single part in the car. I've searched online threads and can't seem to find a clear answer over why fuel doesn't get to the engine unless you press the fuel distributor plate manually. I tried removing the EHA just to check if fuel comes out and there is fuel. I unscrewed the top of the fuel distributor lines but there is no fuel coming out unless you crank and hold down the fuel distributor plate gently down.

190Efan

I think the issue might be in swapping in the 3.0 engine. Are you using the ECU and wiring harness that goes with the 3.0 engine or are you using the ECU and wiring harness from your 2.6 engine. Typically, the EHA adjustments you've made aren't easily done and that might also be part of the problem. You might want to check with the MB Classic Center in California, explain your issues and see what suggestions they might have.

Jasonx212

Jasonx212

Unfortunately i don't live in the US
and where i live the 190E is considered a rare car and barely anyone knows how to work on it. Thats why i need to do things myself.
I believe the entire issue is due to a misplaced vaccum lines. I noticed few lines that are just out in the open like the one for the EZL unit and another one coming from below the fuel distributor. Two lines actually come from below the fuel distributor. One goes towards the top of the head while the other one is connected to the corner of the intake on my car.
Also i noticed a missing line on the driver side which i believe is the one for eco Guage.
Where can i find a vaccum line diagram ?

Jasonx212

This line goes out of the EZL but can't figure out where it connects to ?



this line I also noticed missing its connection. on the other side of the fire wall its connected to 3 lines but idk what its for and where it connects to.




this thing is on the driver side and its disconnected from both sides where does it connect to ? does it connect to the hole in picture B ? if so where does the other side connect to ?





so basically the garage that fitted the engine in connected this vacuum outlet to the lower nipple on picture (E).




this is a clarification over where the line from pic (D) is connected to. the upper nipple is connected through a vacuum hose to the head of the engine.

Jasonx212

I have this wire coming out of X11 port that I can't seem to find where it was cut off from.

Also this wire that comes out of front of the engine. Engine VIN is 103 983. As far as the vacuum lines i somwhat sorted them out with some online diagrams but still not 100% sure.

190Efan

I would suggest that you contact one of the locations for the MB Classic Center either in California or Germany with the photos of your engine. They should be able to help you.