2.5 16v stalling




The eBay seller said the same thing that shipping cost would easily touch $700 plus the tank, if it would fit, over a $1k.
I'll probably sell it. I can't deal with it anymore. It has beaten me. Time to take a break from project cars and pay attention to my other cars which haven't gotten the attention they need.




I do not recall the condition of the interior and if it is worth the $1000 investment in a fuel tank. I know you had to get the paint re-done so that is another expense.
How much do you believe the car is worth in Japan if it was in running condition and the paint is taken care of?
Here it's worth about 15k. Perfect paint might bring it to 20. It's over 100k km so Japanese are scared and repair shops are few.
I know state side it's worth a lot more but no one looks at eBay anymore and BAT doesn't support overseas transactions.




Your call but I still think you should spend the $1000 to change out the tank.
- Cheers!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
The worst being a 1991 928 which was parted out. No exhaust manifolds and no driveline behind the engine. There was a screw in one of the cylinders stopping it from turning. Interior and engine mostly disassembled. I could get another parts car and rebuild. In fact the parts car too had a bad transmission. All said and done in 9 months I had beautiful 928S4 with complete leather interior, rebuilt motor and more than 10k profit.
The tank is the last piece of the puzzle. If I could get a used tank in better condition or somehow permanently repair the rust then I'd spring for the paint job. I've used POR-15 on 911s in the past with great success. But from what I've read, DONT with these tanks.
I was smitten by the C63 widebody wagon. Worth roughly the same amount as my car
The majority of the cars there were BMWs




I always draw a nod and a thumbs up on the road from an E30 that passes by.
Heck in my household there are 3 BMW's and the lone W201. The W201 gets plenty of love....




But I did not clean the IACV totally and the cleaning process itself gummed up the mechanicals inside. If the IACV is stuck and everything else is in working order the system starts oscillating because it is so out of range. Since you are saying disconnecting the IACV cleans up the oscillations (but it will idle high) I would say it could be IACV sticking.
But before touching the IACV, tell us what else is wrong. How does the car drive? Just leave the IACV unplugged and tell us how it drives other than the high idle.
If anything else is not quite right with the drive test we need to know about it as then it is not just your IACV, it could be something else.
At this point it's going to cost more than I'll make back. My other cars need attention so I'm going to leave the 190 alone. I've advertised it for sale as is. It has beaten me.
My e34 M5 needs OEM headlights not the cheap eBay HIDs and new leather interior.
My w210 e55 needs driver seat leather repair and has a few dings and scratches. The 996tt needs diverted valves and an alternator.
The heat isn't making these jobs any easier.
At this point it's going to cost more than I'll make back. My other cars need attention so I'm going to leave the 190 alone. I've advertised it for sale as is. It has beaten me.
My e34 M5 needs OEM headlights not the cheap eBay HIDs and new leather interior.
My w210 e55 needs driver seat leather repair and has a few dings and scratches. The 996tt needs diverted valves and an alternator.
The heat isn't making these jobs any easier.




odometer: the plastic gear in it is worn and free spinning most likely. A pain to replace as the cluster needs to come out, but the gear is sold on ebay for $25. I know highway robbery but at least they sell them. They will have to know the car's details, basically your differential ratio as that changes the gearing. Most likely your is 3.27 and that is stamped on the diff facing the rear of the car.
slow engaging rev's: sounds like you still have fueling issues that needs addressing. Most likely the EHA current is not level between idle and 2500 rpm, so the oxygen sensor loop has to compensate for it and that takes time (4-5 seconds). This is if I understand your description. If this is it, measure your duty cycle at idle versus after revving the engine to 2500 rpm right after and holding it there for 10 seconds. That might give you a clue. It could be other culprits but I would check the lowest hanging fruit first. You should be an expert on measuring duty cycle by now (:-))
- Cheers!



