When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
I can only tell you what my 2 cars used back in the day. Yes one in 88 and the other in 89.
88 in Portland Oregon used 15W40 - Diesel oil
89 in SJ California used 10W40
Both service records show this from day one.
So there is not magic but I do believe for california weather 10W40 was used by the dealer.
So I sometimes use 10W40 and other times 15W40 for either car.
15W40 is very common at the auto stores. 10W40 is becoming less and less available Dave.
What is your service records showing since it was originally in San Jose?
When back thru the records ( from 2001), 20w-50, 10w40, and most recently 10w-30 latest is 5w-30. The PO changed shops and oil weight.
While doing the upper timing cover seal, with the valve cover off, I noticed a varnish like deposits on the timing gear, no sludge but the oil is dirty. Neglegable camshaft wear. I think I'm going to try LiguiMoyl 10w-40 semi synthetic. My understanding is that s synthetic oil has some cleaning properties.
Thanks dolucasi.
Last edited by Dave Kost; Oct 15, 2024 at 07:28 AM.
If your car has substantial mileage, you might want to consider a synthetic oil labeled for high mileage -- these are promoted as having additional detergents.
Last edited by streborx; Oct 15, 2024 at 08:52 AM.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
I do not know oil science but it seems the 15W40 conventional diesel oil has detergents to keep the engine parts clean as well.
40K miles after I had the cylinder head re-done on the '89 the valve train still looks brand new. And this engine burns quite a bit of oil which makes the oil dirty quickly like in 2000 miles. Still the engine parts are not getting dirty.
I shy away from synthetic oils because I have heard that they may not be good for rubber seals in these old cars. Neither car leaks oil and they are in the $200K miles range so I would rather not create trouble now.
So I use conventional oils and change them frequently, ever 2000-3000 miles. With the oil extractors it is super easy to change oil.
In summer I have been using 15/40 and switch to 5w40 synthetic in winter. Temperatures in winter smetimes (now rarely) go down to -40c but -30 is still not uncommon and -20 is normal for much of the winters which begin in November and end in March. I have found that synthetic seems to pour easier than non synthetic. Like Doucasi I have a now use a vacuum pump oil extractor and the filter sits on top so oil changes are easy peasy. I don't drive the car much in winter now (maybe 1000km) so I usually save the oil I removed and use it for two seasons each. I haven't noticed any leaking oil except that timing cover weeps a bit which it has long before I began using synthetic.
If your car has substantial mileage, you might want to consider a synthetic oil labeled for high mileage -- these are promoted as having additional detergents.
Mileage is 98,000 - Would you consider this high mileage?
In summer I have been using 15/40 and switch to 5w40 synthetic in winter. Temperatures in winter smetimes (now rarely) go down to -40c but -30 is still not uncommon and -20 is normal for much of the winters which begin in November and end in March. I have found that synthetic seems to pour easier than non synthetic. Like Doucasi I have a now use a vacuum pump oil extractor and the filter sits on top so oil changes are easy peasy. I don't drive the car much in winter now (maybe 1000km) so I usually save the oil I removed and use it for two seasons each. I haven't noticed any leaking oil except that timing cover weeps a bit which it has long before I began using synthetic.
Thanks for the reply. I decided on LiquiMoly 10w-40. It's a semi synthetic so it should have good flow on cold start.
What type of oil extractor to you use? Ive been wanting to get one.
I dont have that engine so I looked on the Mobil website to see what they recommend. For my W204 the operators manual specifically mentions using Mobil oil, for whatever reason. I know they have a partnership, the disposable paper floor mats the MB dealer puts in the car while being worked on says Mercedes is partnered with Mobil oil.
For my M272 engine I use the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I use it based on operating temps, it gets really cold around here in winters, and because I can get it locally pretty cheap for around $25 for 5 quart jug. Also once in awhile Mobil has good rebate offers on there website, received a few $10 gift cards, one time I got a nice Mobil 1 cooler bag. My W204 has over 156,000 miles and I typically put 7,000 miles/yr. My goal is to change the oil and filter at least once a year but i find myself changing it more often the past 2yrs. It doesnt seem to consume alot of oil, I may add 1/4 - 1/2 quart during that time just to keep the level at the full line on the dipstick.
I change the oil both ways, with a small 12v electric fluid pump thru the dipstick or go under the car and drain it from the plug. Just depends on it I feel like going under the car and inspecting everything.
I dont have that engine so I looked on the Mobil website to see what they recommend. For my W204 the operators manual specifically mentions using Mobil oil, for whatever reason. I know they have a partnership, the disposable paper floor mats the MB dealer puts in the car while being worked on says Mercedes is partnered with Mobil oil.
For my M272 engine I use the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I use it based on operating temps, it gets really cold around here in winters, and because I can get it locally pretty cheap for around $25 for 5 quart jug. Also once in awhile Mobil has good rebate offers on there website, received a few $10 gift cards, one time I got a nice Mobil 1 cooler bag. My W204 has over 156,000 miles and I typically put 7,000 miles/yr. My goal is to change the oil and filter at least once a year but i find myself changing it more often the past 2yrs. It doesnt seem to consume alot of oil, I may add 1/4 - 1/2 quart during that time just to keep the level at the full line on the dipstick.
I change the oil both ways, with a small 12v electric fluid pump thru the dipstick or go under the car and drain it from the plug. Just depends on it I feel like going under the car and inspecting everything.
Anyways, heres what pops up on the Mobil website:
Since 1997, all MBs leave the MB factory with Mobil 1. For older classic cars that already have thousands of miles on them, synthetic isn't the best choice because most of the engine wear has already taken place. The synthetic oil is best to start using when a car is brand new. It's the early miles that synthetic is so good at protecting against early engine wear. My engineer father worked for Mobil and knew the man you originally developed Mobil 1 and that's what I was always taught.
Mileage is 98,000 - Would you consider this high mileage?
Yes, you're getting into high mileage territory. Much of the engine wear has already taken place so that reduces the synthetic oil's protecting against engine wear.
In summer I have been using 15/40 and switch to 5w40 synthetic in winter. Temperatures in winter smetimes (now rarely) go down to -40c but -30 is still not uncommon and -20 is normal for much of the winters which begin in November and end in March. I have found that synthetic seems to pour easier than non synthetic. Like Doucasi I have a now use a vacuum pump oil extractor and the filter sits on top so oil changes are easy peasy. I don't drive the car much in winter now (maybe 1000km) so I usually save the oil I removed and use it for two seasons each. I haven't noticed any leaking oil except that timing cover weeps a bit which it has long before I began using synthetic.
Sounds like you have a seal that needs to be replaced.
I do not know oil science but it seems the 15W40 conventional diesel oil has detergents to keep the engine parts clean as well.
40K miles after I had the cylinder head re-done on the '89 the valve train still looks brand new. And this engine burns quite a bit of oil which makes the oil dirty quickly like in 2000 miles. Still the engine parts are not getting dirty.
I shy away from synthetic oils because I have heard that they may not be good for rubber seals in these old cars. Neither car leaks oil and they are in the $200K miles range so I would rather not create trouble now.
So I use conventional oils and change them frequently, ever 2000-3000 miles. With the oil extractors it is super easy to change oil.
FYI, my engineer father never used diesel oil in any of our gas powered cars. If your car is now burning a lot of oil, there is a reason that the oil is getting by to the point of burning that likely should be further investigated. I would be looking if it was my W201. Just my 2 cents.
Given that my engineer father worked for Mobil, I've only ever used Mobil 1 for my W201 2.3. I've owned my car since it was brand new. I've never had an issue. Synthetic isn't the best choice for cars with lots of miles already on them because most of the engine wear takes place in the earlier miles. Synthetic is really good for protecting a gainst engine wear in new cars. This is what my engineer father always taught me. It works for my W201.
Brand loyalty, family connections and marketing partnerships should not sway your own research into the best oil for you. First, look for a weight that is appropriate to where you live. Next decide if you want full or semi synthetic oil. Next, remember that the oil specs of today are not the same as they were yesterday. Todays oils are formulated for long oci, reduced emissions, and lesser oil waste but NOT longevity of the engine. The oils may provide that longevity if the oil changes are done on a normal 5000mi average oci, but not at ten, twenty, and thirty thousand miles. Synthetic oil is the best choice. Its been used in Europe for 50 years. Its an old wives tail that synthetic oil makes a car leak. The car leaks due to warn out seals that are now cleaned of their deposits by the synthetic oil. For your car, you can use basically anything you like in the proper weight range, but you dont need an oil that performs best in a gdi engine because you dont have one. Though I have not used it, the Valvoline restore and protect is getting rave reviews if you have any oil consumption. Sure, its not Euro blend, but that should not matter in your case imho.
FYI, my engineer father never used diesel oil in any of our gas powered cars. If your car is now burning a lot of oil, there is a reason that the oil is getting by to the point of burning that likely should be further investigated. I would be looking if it was my W201. Just my 2 cents.
I got a very good deal on Petro Canada synthetic 5W40 Diesel engine oil to use this winter. The oil has a CK-4/SN rating which means it is also suitable for gasoline engines so I assume that it will be OK. I change the oil twice per year (Spring &Fall) and only drive the 190E about 4-5km or about 3000 miles tops.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
I think that diesel oils must be fine for gasoline engines. If not so why would the Mercedes dealership put diesel oil into my '88 since day one?
And that engine BTW at near 200K miles burns no oil and has no oil leaks and even though it has the weaker camshaft and valve rocker metallurgy (that was updated in late '89 production) it has no signs of wear on the valve train. So I know at least the valve train/camshaft was well protected early in life.
There was a post about an old tale about synthetic oils not hurting the rubber but rather clean the engine over time of deposits and that may induce oil leaks. So that would confirm that the observation of leaks happening after synthetic oil usage on old engines.
I can agree with that statement in that a worn engine does not want deposits on the metallic and rubber parts cleaned. Case in point, my '89 which burns oil because of a slight defect in cylinder 5. My leakdown tests conducted at 180K miles showed this as well as it was at 95% and the rest were 99%. This started happening at before 100K miles and it started loosing a quart in ~1500 miles back then. Also after I cleaned the engine with constant usage of diesel oils and engine flush the consumption got worse. A clear indication of cleaning the engine making oil consumption worse on this particular engine. So that one gets good old 10W40 from now just like it did from day one. And thank god it does not leak oil.
So what I'm saying is there is no one best oil for "All" old engines. Each case is different. Generally it is best to change oils frequently and to keep using the same oil the car has been using from day one if there is nothing wrong with the engine. This would agree with 190Efan's statement.
Just my observation on my high mileage two W201-2.6 engines.
I'm happy to rely on my engineer father's 40 years of aviation and automotive engineering work experience along with membership in the Society of Automotive Engineers. He knew exactly how every aviation and automotive oil was formulated. His advise helps me to keep my cars well maintained.
My understanding is that diesel and gasoline engine oils are fundamentally different and are formulated specifically for each type of engine application. There are hybrid oils such as Shell's Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-30 that is spec'd API CK-4 for diesel applications and API SN for gasoline applications. Shell promotes this product as a convenience for fleet operators that maintain both types of engines. I own 3 diesel machines and 4 gasoline automobiles, but I'm not thinking about trying to save a few bucks buying Shell's T6 by the barrel rather than buying the specific oil by the jug that each vehicle manufacturer recommends. I stick with each vehicle manufacturer's oil weight and approval ratings. Keeping the oil and other fluids serviced in 7 vehicles is work enough without dealing with potential problems caused by trying to save a few dollars.
My understanding is that diesel and gasoline engine oils are fundamentally different and are formulated specifically for each type of engine application. There are hybrid oils such as Shell's Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-30 that is spec'd API CK-4 for diesel applications and API SN for gasoline applications. Shell promotes this product as a convenience for fleet operators that maintain both types of engines. I own 3 diesel machines and 4 gasoline automobiles, but I'm not thinking about trying to save a few bucks buying Shell's T6 by the barrel rather than buying the specific oil by the jug that each vehicle manufacturer recommends. I stick with each vehicle manufacturer's oil weight and approval ratings. Keeping the oil and other fluids serviced in 7 vehicles is work enough without dealing with potential problems caused by trying to save a few dollars.
The oil formulation that existed back when the 40 years ago are different than what they are now. I can recall the time before there were straight grade oils which were recommended for our family cars. My father changed the oil twice a year in our Packard - 30 weight in summer and 10 in winter. Packard and Mercedes engineers made the oil recommendations based on what was available at the time as well as interval periods.
Classification SF was the most modern and what was recommended when my car was new. That was superceded by SG, SH and so on until the SN today. I imagine the oil classification MB recommended in 1984 is obsolete and no longer available. I think I might still have a few tins of SG in the garage. I could be wrong but I will hazard a guess that the SN oils of today are better for our 190E's than what was originally recommended when the cars were new. I won't say the same for the ethanol blend gas that we must use today.
The oil formulation that existed back when the 40 years ago are different than what they are now. I can recall the time before there were straight grade oils which were recommended for our family cars. My father changed the oil twice a year in our Packard - 30 weight in summer and 10 in winter. Packard and Mercedes engineers made the oil recommendations based on what was available at the time as well as interval periods.
Classification SF was the most modern and what was recommended when my car was new. That was superceded by SG, SH and so on until the SN today. I imagine the oil classification MB recommended in 1984 is obsolete and no longer available. I think I might still have a few tins of SG in the garage. I could be wrong but I will hazard a guess that the SN oils of today are better for our 190E's than what was originally recommended when the cars were new. I won't say the same for the ethanol blend gas that we must use today.
SN has already been superceded by SP -- I can't keep up!
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
