OK to Jack or Support on the Front Xmember?




Manual can be found here ....
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=c...40a8a6cb5377b4
Last edited by cyberglk350; Mar 29, 2010 at 12:53 PM.




I will pass the info along to other groups and give you credit for the reference.
Last edited by MBRedux; Mar 29, 2010 at 11:54 PM.
Last edited by MBRedux; Aug 3, 2012 at 09:20 PM.
It works amazing with hydraulic jack. I used it to install the Winter Wheel.
I’ll probably use it again this weekend to install my OEM 20”
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This is an official technical publication service document written by Daimler Chrysler / Mercedes Benz engineering. It is delivered to ALL service managers prior to new model delivery.
I'm calling
on your "5 Point" simultaneous lifting theory.The subframe is NOT GOING TO BEND BY LIFTING HERE. HAHA LMAO!!!
Just to verify and not sound like yourself REDUX, I called my local dealer and asked about this jacking point. It is EXACTLY what it is descrbed as in the pre-service manual. IT IS A LIFTING POINT.
The service manager even verified this information from the actual service manual for me and verified this as FACT.
This is an official technical publication service document written by Daimler Chrysler / Mercedes Benz engineering. It is delivered to ALL service managers prior to new model delivery.
I'm calling
on your "5 Point" simultaneous lifting theory.The subframe is NOT GOING TO BEND BY LIFTING HERE. HAHA LMAO!!!
Just to verify and not sound like yourself REDUX, I called my local dealer and asked about this jacking point. It is EXACTLY what it is descrbed as in the pre-service manual. IT IS A LIFTING POINT.
The service manager even verified this information from the actual service manual for me and verified this as FACT.
"Service manager"....

Last edited by MBRedux; Mar 30, 2010 at 02:26 PM.
On any vehicle with a uni-structure space frame, impact forces from an accident are the top priority for engineers and designers... not if it can withstand a single lifting point by the customer. Now for those that do not understand automotive structure, the entire weight of any vehicle is never loaded up on any single cross beam or member but always suspended by springs onto each of the 4 axles so that the weight of the vehicle is never loaded onto any one point.... ever.
That's why professionals use use a four (and sometime a five point) hydraulic lift to do the job. It raises the vehicle *EQUALLY* at all four corners simultaneously lessening the torsional stress while it goes up. And even then the body will bend and flex (try opening a door when your car is jacked up) until it can once again float on its springs when lowered.
If your wish is to raise the GLK completely off the ground, the best way is to use a two point hydraulic jack (below) for the front and rear using the device shown above in my other post for your GLK...otherwise the flex can be rather harsh on it when doing each corner separately... just like a whale out of water, most uni-structured space frame vehicles do not like being off their springs for too long.
Even then you shouldn’t get beneath the car... Mercedes GLK's really don't have jack stand points either.
Last edited by MBRedux; Mar 30, 2010 at 03:49 PM.
You are right i have no technical experience, I have this thing called common sense and it has worked alright so far. Lifted old toyots on whatever part of the car fited the jack and looked stable enough, no problem whatsover (had cars for years). And since when racing experience make you an MB engineer? Did you design GLK? Did you put it together? Did you lift it and something got bent? So lack of technical expericence applies to you just as much. Save your 40 years of racing experience excuse for other times.
are we lifting entire car on one singe point? Wouldn't two wheels be still on the ground?
Well pardon all of us for challenging your superior intellect."Racing Experience" does not qualify as --> "Actually Working in a Mercedes Service Center" and following hte proper procedures in that type of environment.
Again, "Reading Comprehension 101"
I wrote ....
The Service Manager looked it up from the SERVICE MANUAL SPECIFIC TO THE GLK.
You just like to get the last word REDUX
.You can keep doing that if you want. It only helps make the point that you think of yourself as some kind of "KNOW IT ALL"
But guess what?
YOU DON'T
It will give way sooner or later, maybe even crush or bend. In any case, the stress will lessen it's structural integrity. Come on, let's go......... let's see it......... put up or shut up!
It will give way sooner or later, maybe even crush or bend. In any case, the stress will lessen it's structural integrity. Come on, let's go......... let's see it......... put up or shut up!





As a member suggested on another board, I'll subscribe to Startek and report on findings. In the meantime, I'll jack up one side at a time.




I wanted to take all 4 wheels and my spare to the tire shop for new tires. So using my floor jack at the normal front jack points behind the front wheels, I was able to raise the rear (one side at a time) high enough to put jack stands at the normal rear jacking points. Then I placed a single jack stand under the rubber pad on the front Xmember and lowered the vehicle on to it. I removed the wheels and took these photos, but because I did not consider the vehicle to be stable, I then put the floor jack and the OEM jack under the vehicle before leaving it.
So I do not recommend doing this, but in an emergency or in a similar situation, I would consider jacking the vehicle using the Xmember pad and then supporting the vehicle with jack stands under the normal jacking points.
BTW -- I modified some jack stands (the ones used at the rear of the vehicle) by removing the top "Y" portion of the center ratcheted support piece. This way, the jack stand fits into the cavity/pocket in the body where the jack normally fits. I have also fabricated a piece for my floor jack that fits into these cavities.
I wanted to take all 4 wheels and my spare to the tire shop for new tires. So using my floor jack at the normal front jack points behind the front wheels, I was able to raise the rear (one side at a time) high enough to put jack stands at the normal rear jacking points. Then I placed a single jack stand under the rubber pad on the front Xmember and lowered the vehicle on to it. I removed the wheels and took these photos, but because I did not consider the vehicle to be stable, I then put the floor jack and the OEM jack under the vehicle before leaving it.
So I do not recommend doing this, but in an emergency or in a similar situation, I would consider jacking the vehicle using the Xmember pad and then supporting the vehicle with jack stands under the normal jacking points.
BTW -- I modified some jack stands (the ones used at the rear of the vehicle) by removing the top "Y" portion of the center ratcheted support piece. This way, the jack stand fits into the cavity/pocket in the body where the jack normally fits. I have also fabricated a piece for my floor jack that fits into these cavities.


