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2010 ML350 BlueTech Engine Siezed

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Old May 29, 2012 | 11:42 AM
  #1  
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2010 & 2011 ML350 BlueTech
2010 ML350 BlueTech Engine Siezed

I'm sorry if this might have been posted before.

I have a 2010 ML350 BlueTech with 80k miles. It stopped running and was towed into the dealer. The dealer stated that the ISM sensor was bad. He also stated that the motor siezed due to sludge. The oil was changed every 10k with MB authorized oil.

The dealer is refusing to warranty the motor.

Has anyone had this problem and what did the dealer do? If the I have all of the supporting documentation showing all oil changes, why the warranty issue?

PLEASE ADVISE.

James

Last edited by JNK328; May 29, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 01:23 PM
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That does not sound right at all. Call the regional office ASAP and report this. Hopefully you had all of the services done at your dealership or have all of the documentation required that show not only that the work was done, but, also that the correct parts and oil were used. Keep us posted. That is pretty good mileage for a diesel and it is unlikely that you would have a sludge probem with regular service intervals observed.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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It does sound strange for a properly maintained diesel to implode at 80K miles.However,unless there's an extended warranty it's hard for me to see what recourse you'd have....other than have it fixed or sell it.But then I'm not a lawyer so I could be wrong.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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JNK, What is the outcome ?. There has to be a reason for the seizure. I hope MB come to the party if you are not responsible for the failure.

If not you should take oil samples & have them tested to see whether the correct oil was used.There are many other reasons an engine may seize. All should be investigared until the cause is found.

Good luck .

Carsy
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:26 PM
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300D Turbo 1984
Dear Gosh,

I didn't think you could kill diesels? On my 300D:

There was a time when I "ran in the house to grab something" and ended up getting a call and then an email and then dinner and... end point diesel idling outside overnight from 4PM to 8AM, drove it to petrol pump the next morning on fumes.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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2010 & 2011 ML350 BlueTech
We called the regional manager and he will not fix it. It is under warranty but they are saying the motor is sludged up. If there was low oil in the motor where is the oil light? No error codes, no sigh of any issues.
Is this a problem with these motors? We have 4 in the fleet plus my wife drives a 2011 ML350.
They changed the ISM Sensor and cleared out any codes. I think I'll try my luck at another dealer out of the region?
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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Have you contacted MBUSA? If you have that many MB then they definitely should sit up and take notice.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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Ok what I don't understand is why change a sensor on a motor that is seized?
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Old Jul 7, 2012 | 06:16 AM
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It would be interesting to know the outcome ? !!
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JNK328
I'm sorry if this might have been posted before.

I have a 2010 ML350 BlueTech with 80k miles. It stopped running and was towed into the dealer. The dealer stated that the ISM sensor was bad. He also stated that the motor siezed due to sludge. The oil was changed every 10k with MB authorized oil.

The dealer is refusing to warranty the motor.

Has anyone had this problem and what did the dealer do? If the I have all of the supporting documentation showing all oil changes, why the warranty issue?

PLEASE ADVISE.

James
any updates?
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #11  
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As a general rule, diesels don't sludge they are giving you excuses. Take your car out of that dealer on a flat bed, to a dealer that understands diesels and tell corparate what your doing also. You need a specific reason why you need a motor and sludge is not an answer.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 09:47 AM
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There is obviously much more to this story than has been disclosed.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ImInPA
There is obviously much more to this story than has been disclosed.


+ 1 on that
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 01:45 PM
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While I understand that it is cheaper to change your own oil, in all reality, it is not that much cheaper. I mean, if you are going to by a $60k+ vehicle, why would you try to save $30 bucks doing it yourself. I had a co-worker that was all about saving a few bucks on a new 5 series. He didn't torque the drain bolt correctly and lost his oil and engine. BMW of course is not stupid, nor is MB. While the cost of the engine rebuild of the BMW V8 was over $15K, I did remind him that he save almost $30 bucks changing his own oil. Modern luxury vehicles are not the place to look to saving few bucks every 10K miles.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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2006 E320 CDI 235 hp 420 ft tq
If he had used BMW approved oil it would not have dared to drained out.
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ImInPA
While I understand that it is cheaper to change your own oil, in all reality, it is not that much cheaper. I mean, if you are going to by a $60k+ vehicle, why would you try to save $30 bucks doing it yourself. I had a co-worker that was all about saving a few bucks on a new 5 series. He didn't torque the drain bolt correctly and lost his oil and engine. BMW of course is not stupid, nor is MB. While the cost of the engine rebuild of the BMW V8 was over $15K, I did remind him that he save almost $30 bucks changing his own oil. Modern luxury vehicles are not the place to look to saving few bucks every 10K miles.
Can't say I agree with you. A service cost is A$400 here. . If the owner is mechanically inclined , interested & motivated there is no reason why he or she should not change their own oil in a modern car. It creates an added interest in the car.
Some folk make excuses not to ,to hide their incompetence or laziness.
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #17  
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I don't know much about the newer Mercedes diesel engines, but if the OPs engine is a V6, his problem might be related to the following post.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/gene...e-failure.html
It all sounds very strange to me, but I would love to hear about the oil type used on the problem engines, and the frequency of change. Strange things can happen. I understand that Toyota has had a sludging problem with one of their gassers that has killed a number of relatively new engines.
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ImInPA
While I understand that it is cheaper to change your own oil, in all reality, it is not that much cheaper. I mean, if you are going to by a $60k+ vehicle, why would you try to save $30 bucks doing it yourself. I had a co-worker that was all about saving a few bucks on a new 5 series. He didn't torque the drain bolt correctly and lost his oil and engine. BMW of course is not stupid, nor is MB. While the cost of the engine rebuild of the BMW V8 was over $15K, I did remind him that he save almost $30 bucks changing his own oil. Modern luxury vehicles are not the place to look to saving few bucks every 10K miles.
I had a drop of oil appear on the garage floor the day after a service at the dealer. On inspection there was oil all over the underbody protection.

So I returned it to the dealer who accepted the drain plug was leaking, and immediately booked it in apologising for not having a loan car available.

So I sat in their lounge drinking coffee reading nice magazines, while they removed and cleaned the underbody covers. They then drained the new oil, replaced the faulty sump plug washer, and gave it fresh oil again (not recycled).

If I had done my own change, I would have had to foot the bill for another dose of oil, and clean up my mess.
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by iankayem
I had a drop of oil appear on the garage floor the day after a service at the dealer. On inspection there was oil all over the underbody protection.

So I returned it to the dealer who accepted the drain plug was leaking, and immediately booked it in apologising for not having a loan car available.

So I sat in their lounge drinking coffee reading nice magazines, while they removed and cleaned the underbody covers. They then drained the new oil, replaced the faulty sump plug washer, and gave it fresh oil again (not recycled).

If I had done my own change, I would have had to foot the bill for another dose of oil, and clean up my mess.
And if you had known what you were doing the leak would have never occurred. The dealer technician (term used loosely) probably failed to replaced the copper washer or tighten the oil drain bolt to proper torque and last but not least check their work to make sure everything is OK.
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Actually, the "technician" should have followed MB's procedure and removed the oil via suction from the dipstick tube.

JNK328 any updates??
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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I do my own service to keep my vehicle clean, and undamaged. They don't care at the dealer the way I do, plus my oil is clean when I am done not still black.
Diesels don't sludge like gas engines and he claimed regular service at 10k miles. Yes he is well out of warranty at 80k, but you think they would help...
In reference to the other oil failures perhaps the oil really isn't getting changed the way it should be...(like 7 liters instead of the 10 L in really holds) and having the long drain interval doesn't help.
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Carsy
Can't say I agree with you. A service cost is A$400 here. . If the owner is mechanically inclined , interested & motivated there is no reason why he or she should not change their own oil in a modern car. It creates an added interest in the car.
Some folk make excuses not to ,to hide their incompetence or laziness.
A full service is more than just an oil change, of course. My MB dealer is about $80 for an oil change. Just the oil and filter are approx. $50. That is my point. A savings of $30. I have hadd all of the services performed through the 30K miles ( I am nearing the 40K service). So far, my most expensive service has been $280 at my dealership. The best part, if my Bluetec engine siezes, my dealer will not blame my oil changes. Not bad insurance to shell out $30 extra every one year or 10K miles.

Last edited by ImInPA; Jul 31, 2012 at 09:45 AM.
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ImInPA
Modern luxury vehicles are not the place to look to saving few bucks every 10K miles.
I would like to know the difference in changing the oil between modern luxury vehicles & older vehicles.

I have been changing my oil since 17 years of age ie for 48 years I have not noticed any difference in the filler cap, drain plug & filter removal to speak of .

Whilst changing the oil I fully inspect the underneath of the car & for any leaks from eg suspension components, steering boots, mcpherson struts & brakes.

What ever floats your boat . I will agree to disagree with you.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:09 AM
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The OM642 will sludge just like a gas engine. Even when regular oil change intervals are performed. The reason for his is a biodiesel fuel concentration of greater than 5%. I would have to assume that the dealer has tested the fuel and found it to fail the test. MBUSA has put out a lot of info about not using biodiesel in our vehicles. I have seen several of these engine sludge.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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Hello, I would like to know what happened with your vehicle. I am asking because latetly I have seen this problem on few vehicles. I personally rebuild 2010 blue tech that was sludged badly. and I have few customers that have changed engines already with low mileage on the car.
This is very good engine but there is no way you change the oil at every 10K miles. it is too much for this vehicle. This is what I see.
I have another one coming next week.
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