GT/C192/R192: well... we'll know more about the Renntech RPM very soon hopefully.




Does the XLR, when installed, eliminate, or affect any of sport, sport+, comfort etc when you change the modes on the car itself?
No way to get under the car and don't have small hands!
It took me maybe 45 min to install the RPM tuning module. It's quite simple, just 2 of the connections are difficult to reach. But I would think a shop could get to them from the bottom or with a special tool quite easily. So depending on their hourly labor rate, 1250.00 sounds high to me. at 250.00/hr shop rate, they're saying itll take 5 hours. Which is wayyyyy overboard would likely take them 30-45 min at the most. Not to mention 250.00/ hr is high for shop labor rate. I want to say franchise MB service departments are usually 150-250/hr depending on the area. So if its a low overhead independent shop, I would not think their labor rate is as much as a Mercedes Benz dealer, but thats anyones guess. There is no parts needed to install the RPM other than what comes in the box, unless someone wanted some type of highly custom type of install where the RPM box itself is bolted to the car or something like that, would need some fasteners etc. But thats not really necessary either.
Valve controller, not sure, I dont have that modification and no idea what installation involves.
Are these 2 diff shops ? 1250 and 925 individually for each mod? or 2 diff quotes for installing both ?
I would not pay more than 2-300.00 to have the RPM installed. But I also didn't shop around, I just did it myself.
Last edited by ffejnotrom; Feb 3, 2026 at 03:32 PM.




ffejnotrom already knows the RC part down pat and said its pretty easy (I had my guy do it cause he was lowering my car and doing spacers etc at the same time).
It took me maybe 45 min to install the RPM tuning module. It's quite simple, just 2 of the connections are difficult to reach. But I would think a shop could get to them from the bottom or with a special tool quite easily. So depending on their hourly labor rate, 1250.00 sounds high to me. at 250.00/hr shop rate, they're saying itll take 5 hours. Which is wayyyyy overboard would likely take them 30-45 min at the most. Not to mention 250.00/ hr is high for shop labor rate. I want to say franchise MB service departments are usually 150-250/hr depending on the area. So if its a low overhead independent shop, I would not think their labor rate is as much as a Mercedes Benz dealer, but thats anyones guess. There is no parts needed to install the RPM other than what comes in the box, unless someone wanted some type of highly custom type of install where the RPM box itself is bolted to the car or something like that, would need some fasteners etc. But thats not really necessary either.
Valve controller, not sure, I dont have that modification and no idea what installation involves.
Are these 2 diff shops ? 1250 and 925 individually for each mod? or 2 diff quotes for installing both ?
I would not pay more than 2-300.00 to have the RPM installed. But I also didn't shop around, I just did it myself.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Now the question is... did it show this BEFORE the renntech ? That im not sure about. I know the car is under rated and actual HP on the 63 is 625 (according to renntech) so it could be because of that? and it would show higher regardless? or maybe because of the renntech it showed above 577. But even the 607 number not sure is accurate either, as renntech puts it at 725 (I think) but I believe thats crank HP, I dont know what the on board computer is showing, wheel or crank HP? Not sure. But if you take 725HP x .15% drivetrain loss (which I think is high), that puts it at 616 wheel HP, which isnt far off what I showed at 607. But who knows whats accurate and if any of what im saying is what it's actually measuring and what the actual numbers are. Tough to say.
This was in "race", but was basically a roll start, not launch control, just floored it at a stop light, and I think this showed in 2nd gear. It's a screenshot of a video, because the number goes away quickly after you let off the throttle....
So who knows why and how mine is showing this, or if it would still show with out the renntech....
I need to get an oil change soon so I will be putting the bypass plug in the renntech and will do a couple pulls and see what it shows with the RT turned off.
Im also at that time interested in seeing what the PSI shows, mine shows 21psi at that point, wonder what it would say with out the RT plugged in?




Now the question is... did it show this BEFORE the renntech ? That im not sure about. I know the car is under rated and actual HP on the 63 is 625 (according to renntech) so it could be because of that? and it would show higher regardless? or maybe because of the renntech it showed above 577. But even the 607 number not sure is accurate either, as renntech puts it at 725 (I think) but I believe thats crank HP, I dont know what the on board computer is showing, wheel or crank HP? Not sure. But if you take 725HP x .15% drivetrain loss (which I think is high), that puts it at 616 wheel HP, which isnt far off what I showed at 607. But who knows whats accurate and if any of what im saying is what it's actually measuring and what the actual numbers are. Tough to say.
This was in "race", but was basically a roll start, not launch control, just floored it at a stop light, and I think this showed in 2nd gear. It's a screenshot of a video, because the number goes away quickly after you let off the throttle....
So who knows why and how mine is showing this, or if it would still show with out the renntech....
I need to get an oil change soon so I will be putting the bypass plug in the renntech and will do a couple pulls and see what it shows with the RT turned off.
Im also at that time interested in seeing what the PSI shows, mine shows 21psi at that point, wonder what it would say with out the RT plugged in?
Now on my RS6- I just did a full ecu tune with APR and they did bump the Gauge limits but that was a full rewrite via OBD2.
Now the question is... did it show this BEFORE the renntech ? That im not sure about. I know the car is under rated and actual HP on the 63 is 625 (according to renntech) so it could be because of that? and it would show higher regardless? or maybe because of the renntech it showed above 577. But even the 607 number not sure is accurate either, as renntech puts it at 725 (I think) but I believe thats crank HP, I dont know what the on board computer is showing, wheel or crank HP? Not sure. But if you take 725HP x .15% drivetrain loss (which I think is high), that puts it at 616 wheel HP, which isnt far off what I showed at 607. But who knows whats accurate and if any of what im saying is what it's actually measuring and what the actual numbers are. Tough to say.
This was in "race", but was basically a roll start, not launch control, just floored it at a stop light, and I think this showed in 2nd gear. It's a screenshot of a video, because the number goes away quickly after you let off the throttle....
So who knows why and how mine is showing this, or if it would still show with out the renntech....
I need to get an oil change soon so I will be putting the bypass plug in the renntech and will do a couple pulls and see what it shows with the RT turned off.
Im also at that time interested in seeing what the PSI shows, mine shows 21psi at that point, wonder what it would say with out the RT plugged in?
why not install the bypass and see the comparison back to back? You make it sound like it takes time to install the bypass or perhaps you just dont have the time?
why not install the bypass and see the comparison back to back? You make it sound like it takes time to install the bypass or perhaps you just dont have the time?
1. Was there a significant hit on mpg?
2. Any pinging from the engine on 93 octane or higher fuel?
3. When you install the bypass plug, is the factory ECM still connected and reading from the various sensors that the Renntech plugs into? If not, doesn't that then throw errors?




