stephen4785

I saw a pic of a guys setup that had an aurasound 10 inch sub bolted where his stock sub was(package tray). The speaker looked cool. I checked the price and there $500+. I also checked JL audio subs and there $450. How much difference is there between the higher priced bulkier subs than the cheaper ones.Heres the subs Im talking about
http://www.aurasound.com/ mobile audio/mr 10.4
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=5
vs this style
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=15
is it worth the price? I want some bad *** thump but If I can get that from a cheaper sub than Id be much happier not to pay 500$

rays cl55

I can help you out with this one...I have used many different subs:

JL Audio : w3, w6, and w7
RF : Punch, XLC, and Power DVC
Diamond Audio : TDX and M5
ID: IDQ and IDMax
Alpine: Type R

From these subs, the W7 cost the most and the cheapest were the Alpine Type R and IDQ.

The W7 did hit a bit harder, but over priced in my book. I am currently using the Alpine Type R subs and HAVE NO COMPLAINTS!!!! And for the price you really can't go wrong.

Vader55

Diamonds hit real hard and are cheap. about a 1/4 cost of a W7
http://www.diamondaudio.com/products...&line=3&model=

StillKickin

Ive heard really good things about JL Audio....im runnin a Solo Baric Kicker and its great...and a speaker like mine costs around 140 on ebay

motoracer

ok this might be a lame question, but i was told by a stereo shop here in vegas that you cant switch the speakers in mercedes benz because the wires are fiber optic (bose system).

Is this not true ? cause if thats the case i think ill change the stock sub in my CL 500.

W0n6_3d4n

AFAIK, the fiber optic are the signal only, the speaker wire are well copper wire.
More expensive subs can hit harder, more accurate and cleaner. ID subs are one fine subs, SoundSplinter also produce sweet sub (I'm using one and love it). Can't tell u about JL, haven't heard of one, but it seems like a good sub.

BLK 300C

which JL was it?? I got my JL 10w7 w/box for $380 brand new about a year and half ago so i bought 2 of them. The best subs i have ever had. What was expensive were the amps i got, I bought 2 JL 1000w amps for 900 a piece and i got interior JL components, JL gets expensive but i got a deal and didnt have to pay retail on them. Go to StreetEffectz.com and talk to them

wnycec

I went with one 8inch sub in my trunk (clk430)... its is more than enough for me - I have a 5channel alpine amp powering it... the sub is made by Alumapro - the BP series... it comes enclosed in its own casing and what not... I am a BIG fan...

potatobbq

I'd have to put in my vote for IDQs... Relatively cheap, more of a SQ than an SPL sub. I've used them in my last two cars and don't plan on switching anytime soon. I've also previously tried a JLW3 and wasn't very happy with it. I think it really only matters once you've heard something better. If you've never had a sub in your car, then whatever sub will be better than nothing, but once you've had something like a W7 or Dynaudio... then you won't want to go back to something not as good.

c43-e55

you cant get better then stock factory speakers for the highs i have changed my insides a few time on my 02 e55 (since stock bose speakers are 2 ohm they are alot louder)then i just went back to stock all you have to do is change the inside speaker amp and put some nice subs in the trunk u should be good i personaly like memphis for amps and subs but the alpine type r i also a very good speaker the key to good bass is to have a way for it to get inside the car if you got fold down seats thats great other ways you have to port threw rear deck wich is way i had to do it you can have the best system if its not ported right it will sound like crap

morph860

I love my Infinity Perfect 10.1