rgleason

Nokia 6310i Install in US C240

Richard from mbworld.org posted a message recently on the parts necessary to install the 6310i Nokia phone in a US Version Mercedes. A number of communications occurred within that thread between, Richard, myself, and others to determine both simple and more complicated answers to questions; such as, the following:

1. Where is the installation point for the phone electronics?
2. How do you remove the connectors to remove the trunk lining?
3. How do you tap into the fiber loop?
4. If you do not install a compensator, how do you connect the male connector from the antenna switch to the male connector on the cable running to the phone (if you use a linear compensator, the switch cable screws into a female connector on that as does the phone cable)?
5. Do you need to use a compensator?
6. Why can’t you use an antenna signal splitter rather than an antenna switch?
7. Where is the sound system amplifier located and do I have one in my C240 Mercedes?
8. Now that the phone system is working in the car, how do I get the sound to come through the car speakers?
9. Will a phone system for a European Mercedes work with the head unit for a US car?
… and a number of others.

For me, the most difficult part of the install was hooking the fiber optic cables for the phone into the fiber loop. I’ll discuss that more later. First, however, let me outline the necessary steps in a phone installation – there are alternatives but this is the process I followed to install the phone in my C240 2002 automobile:

1. Purchase telephone electronics, cradle and the phone. See below:
Control Unit A203 820 25 85 >> $213.20
Phone Cradle A203 820 06 51* for a C240 2002** >> $108.60
Cover A203 823 03 49 (covers cables) >> $1.00
2*Screws A140 990 06 22 $0.20
Clip the phone cradle plugs into (A203 820 05 51) >> $17.00 -- I have not installed this yet. Without the clip, the phone sound does not work through the car speakers.
Nokia 6310 Phone >> $250 - $290 depending on where you buy it.
*There are newer cradles than this. Richard is researching them and says that they are somewhat more attractive. However, this one does work!
**I do not believe that this cradle is specific only to the 2001/2002 C240. It will most likely work in all 2001/2002 Mercedes.
2. Purchase installation bracket and antenna switch
BRKT PSE/COMPEN/ANTSW Q6820653 >> $40.00 at Clair Parts
ANTENNA SWITCH (DUAL BAND) Q6820652 $105.00 at Clair Parts
Total with German parts, phone, bracket, antenna switch: $760.00
3. Use Velcro tape to stick the PSE onto the installation bracket (the screw holes in the PSE aren’t aligned to those on the bracket).
4. Use M4 x 6 screws to connect the antenna switch to the bracket.
5. Lay aside the bracket with PSE and switch installed.
6. Remove the three small screws from the underside of the center console phone compartment. This is where the Teleaid buttons are located in the center compartment. Push your finger through the hole at the bottom side of that compartment to raise the false floor. Remove the false floor but be careful because the Teleaid cable and buttons are still connected to it. There are two small semi-circles along the button side edge of the false floor. Drill the plastic out of the rear one so the antenna wire can be run through that opening to connect to the antenna cable from the trunk. Screw the male and female connectors together, lock the two connectors to the tabs made to hold them in the false floor, and ensure that the Teleaid and phone wire cables are also fastened appropriately into their holding tabs. If when you remove the false floor, you look carefully at how the wires run, you can simply duplicate their positions when you reinstall. Plug the telephone connector into the connector plug (after removing the plastic cover on the face of the wall where the Teleaid buttons are located), and reinstall the false floor. Install the cover (A203 823 03 49) over the opening that the cable runs through on the underside of the phone compartment. Note, I had to break away one of the small tabs to get the cover to fit.
7. Remove the trunk pad, and then remove the tabs that hold the center trunk compartment lid (if you put a large flat blade screwdriver under the tab and lift up like a fulcrum, the tab will just pop out). Remove the plastic cover. Under that cover is where the Teleaid is located, and if you have VR, the controller is also there. The only reason you are removing that panel is that it sits over the front bottom of the liner panel.
8. Remove the right side trunk lining. You will see round connectors along the top of that panel. Use a piece of dental floss to pull the top pin out of the bottom connector piece. Note the connectors have two parts – a top pin that slides into the bottom connector piece, and that bottom connector piece. First, use the dental floss to pull out the pin, and then use it to pull out the bottom connector. You will also find a connector in the well just under the taillight, and two connectors holding the rear of the panel to the back of the trunk. Where those two back connectors are located, the liner panel fits into tabs. You might need to force the panel out of those tabs. Alternatively, you could remove the plastic piece that runs from one taillight to the other along the bottom of the trunk lid. That involves removing connectors that have a rectangular pin and unsnapping two snaps that hold the plastic piece to the floor of the trunk. You will also need to carefully bend the part of the liner that fits around the trunk hinge. Carefully pull it back to release it from behind the hinge. Now pull the panel from the top and it should just come off. You will see the phone wires sitting just to the rear of the wheel well behind a silver metal plate. I had to cut a plastic connection band to move the wires up. If you look at them behind the plate, you will see a D2B connector covered by a green plastic cover, a 25 pin connector inside of a foam cover with the pins covered by a reddish plastic cover, an antenna wire with a male connector, and a four pin power wire that runs to the antenna switch. You need to carefully work those wires from behind the metal plate so that you can connect them in their appropriate places. It might also be possible to remove the screws that hold the plate so that you can take the plate off and relocate the wires. I’m not positive, but it might be possible.
9. Plug all relevant wires into the PSE and the antenna switch. Disconnect the antenna wire running to the Teleaid. In my car, it was sealed in a piece of black felt. I removed the felt and there was a male and female connector connected together. Unscrew these, plug the antenna-in connector into the antenna switch and connect the male connector from emergency plug on the antenna switch to the female connector formerly connected to the male connector. Then use a Mini-UHF female-to-female connector (available at Radio Shack) to connect the phone wire from the switch to the cable running to the front of the car. I covered the Teleaid antenna connection with the old felt, and the phone antenna connector with the foam piece that had previously covered the connectors that sat behind the metal plate. Then I used twist ties – you could use electrician’s tape if you want – to secure the foam piece to the connector. Note: I have never seen the felt that covered the Teleaid connectors used before. Perhaps that felt provides necessary insulation. If so, I guess you should use that to cover the phone antenna connectors. I didn’t and everything appears to be working fine.
10. Above the metal plate where you found the wires is a metal stud that has connecting points (see the attached graphic) for the sheet metal screws that hold the phone bracket in place. Start the sheet metal screws in the tabs on the bracket, and fit the heads of the screws through the circular openings, and slide the bracket forward so that the screw heads are held in place. Ensure that the tab on the other side of the bracket fits over the relevant bolt (not viewable in the graphic but when you do the install, the location will be obvious) and then tighten the sheet metal screws and the nut holding the other side. Be careful, you don’t want to kink the fiber optic cables!
11. Next, you have to remove the radio. Behind the radio is where the tie-in point to the fiber optic network is located. I followed the instructions by a MBWORLD Super Member whose user name is “session”, on how to remove the radio. See this link: https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...hreadid=13302.

(continued next message)

rgleason

Nokia 6310i Install in US C240

(continued from previous message)
12. Once I had the radio removed, I located a D2B connector with a wire labeled phone-out and radio-in (note: in my car, I have the radio/head unit and a dealer installed CD. If you have no CD or other fiber optic components, I guess all you would have to do is plug the phone-out, radio-in connector to the back of your radio). I shone a flashlight at the phone PSE end of the cable and ensured that I saw light coming through the phone-out and radio-in wires at the other end. I did. I used a small screwdriver to open up the connector that plugged into the back of the radio. I also opened the phone-out and radio-in connector that I’ll call the secondary D2B. I plugged the radio-out connector from the secondary D2B connector into the radio D2B out-port (this fiber runs to the in-port on the phone D2B connector). Then I plugged the remaining fiber (labeled phone-out) from this secondary connector to the wire that I removed from the radio D2B connector (this fiber runs from the phone D2B out-port to the CD in-port). I used a splice that I removed from the VR wire – the VR is not installed in my car – to tie the phone-out fiber into the CD-in fiber.
13. Once all of the wires were connected, I installed necessary fuses – fuse 13 (5 amp) and fuse 16 (7.5 amp) in the fuse box in the trunk on the left hand side. Then I plugged the Nokia 6310i phone into the cradle and turned on the ignition. To my amazement, I could dial the phone from the radio keypad, I could use the steering wheel controls to control the phone, and I have a working integrated phone.
14. In this next to the last step, I reinstalled the radio, see “session’s” instructions here: https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...threadid=13302 and reinstalled the trunk liner, the front trunk compartment plastic cover, and the floor pad. The car looks good as new without a scratch on any of the wood trim around the radio, and has a working integrated Nokia 6310i phone.
15. Finally, make a phone call on your newly installed Nokia to ensure that the antenna switch connects the phone to the antenna, and press the “i” Teleaid button to ensure that the switch works for that system. If both work, you should be “good-to-go!”

Final Note: my car does not have COMAND so I could not do the step that follows. However, if you do have COMAND, you should follow these instructions suggested by Richard (and I quote):

“And finally, I do suggest that you do the following :-
On Comand, go into AUX input mode (hit sys, then select AUX)
Hold down Mute, 1, 3 buttons all together for 10 seconds
<you go into special diagnostic mode>
Then, select diagnostics (I think that’s the one)
Then select D2B components (I think that’s the name)”

“And check that the items in "actual" are the same as in ‘configured’”

“If not, you should get the dealer to go thru the configuration to update the components on the D2B bus.”

Summary

I am very non-technical and was nevertheless able to do this install. Because of the help of one of MBWORLD’s Super Members, I am a lot more technical now than I was before. Richard has my unending gratitude. Please note, that there is not one error message generated on my system. I didn’t even have to take it to a Mercedes dealer to have it hooked up to Star Diagnostics so they could tell the system that the phone was there (note: I am not saying you shouldn’t do this. I am only saying that I did not). I can only hope that the lack of error messages continues, and the phone continues to operate. I am sure both of those hopes will prove to be true!

Dick Gleason

jc4511

Is this the process that one would have to do for the v.60 phone as well?

What was your final cost for everything you needed for the install? Do you have any pictures of the process/final product? We would love to see them!

J.

rgleason

Yes

About $875.00 with the phone. I purchased an entire completer kit -- antenna switch, PSE bracket, compensator/PSE cable. If you aren't going to install a compensator (some folks recommend you do, others state either that it isn't necessary or that it can actually impede the signal), you only need the antenna switch and the PSE bracket, $105 and $45.00 respectively. You could reduce your cost by about $25.00.

Sorry, no pictures. There is, however, instruction on how to remove the radio in a Mercedes with a W203 Chassis provided by "session" at https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...threadid=13302

Dick

2mbusa

Was the original phone in your C Class an analog or a digital? I have an analog in my '99 SL and would like to convert it to digital before all digital service is cancelled.

rgleason

There was no original phone in my vehicle. I installed the digital phone from scratch.

Max77

Hi
Can you send me the photos of the Phone Cradle A203 820 06 51 and Phone Clip A203 820 05 51

Thanks

rgleason

Sorry, no I can't. The phone is no longer in my car.

bayernstern

How this install changes for a 2005 C-Class (i.e. with MOST)? Thanks.

Max77

it's like this?

DRKC240

Does anyone know if you can use a regular mini UHF splitter in place of the dual band antenna switch as mentioned above? I am having a hard time finding the switch...

SUNILP

No, you cannot use a splitter instead of a switch. The switch is powered and gives full strength to the phone until the teleaid is used and then it switch the signal. I have switches if you need.

dtkw

If you don't have a command in your car, why not go the Bluetooth route? Cheaper and easier to change phones.