W211 - Speaker only upgrade on Harmon Kardon system
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Blaine, WA
07 E320 Bluetec
I was looking to replace the center speaker to improve the soundstage on my 212. It is a 3.5" DUAL voice coil! Ugh. I cannot find anyone who makes one. Right now the soundstage is terrible, female vocals come from the drivers side mirror. I wanted a higher sensitivity two way 3.5 to increase the output, now I am stuck. Any suggestions?
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Huntington NY
S560
I would definitely DIY it. I did not want to go crazy with the system. I was hoping for an easy speaker swap. I am surprised that the stock components did so well for you, that is not usual- normally that is the first upgrade. I would not just re-amp the center- now you are talking about your upgrade along with the center. I am just surprised MB cheaped out with a dual voicecoil L/R center instead of a dedicated center channel!
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From: Cleveland Ohio
beater with a heater
Look, this guy doesn't know what he is talking about. the 212 as you have is way much more easier to add an amp to as your command has Hi-level 4 channel out on the back that can be enabled by an MB dealer, or quite possibly it is even enabled now, as I have seen a few like that. your center channel is like that because, it is the sos voice from the telaid system. just add an under dash speaker. use the blu/brn and blu/vlt speaker wire colors
further on the 211 that this guy is butchering up, the aftermarket speakers would make a huge difference if properly installed. obviously they were not properly installed! also I mentioned to remove the mic, but obviously he knows so much... anyways i just needed to put a stop to his train wreck of a post with all the BS...
further on the 211 that this guy is butchering up, the aftermarket speakers would make a huge difference if properly installed. obviously they were not properly installed! also I mentioned to remove the mic, but obviously he knows so much... anyways i just needed to put a stop to his train wreck of a post with all the BS...
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 18
From: Blaine, WA
07 E320 Bluetec
I would definitely DIY it. I did not want to go crazy with the system. I was hoping for an easy speaker swap. I am surprised that the stock components did so well for you, that is not usual- normally that is the first upgrade. I would not just re-amp the center- now you are talking about your upgrade along with the center. I am just surprised MB cheaped out with a dual voicecoil L/R center instead of a dedicated center channel!
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,430
Likes: 12
From: Cleveland Ohio
beater with a heater
butcher? that would be your installation or lack of, the only thing missing is the bloody coat hanger.
Metering it is going to do what for you?
Go ahead and introduce pink noise into the system, then analyze it. which will confirm that you don't know what you are talking about. go ahead and try it then adjust the volume as you can see what the mic does to your system. and there is no need to BS us either as I already done it years ago... and know the answer... I use the sa3055 audio control RTA and a calibrated mic.
as for the 212 E class, you will have to add an emergency speaker, as that is what the second set of coils on the speaker is for... explain to me what you would do for that? especially when trying to get the most out of the center channel? something bullet proof that will work with no power applied to it?
Emilner, your vehicle is completely different than his, audio system included. yours is capable of 7.1 DSP sound, not a true 7.1 as home, but similiar in way the DSP works.
there are many ways to approach a project that is an upgrade just do it correctly. you don't have the DSO, or sound optimization microphone so it will not need to be bypassed. If you do not have the hi-line system with the powered sub, your center channel is derived from the Left positive and right negative signals of the door speakers.
Metering it is going to do what for you?
Go ahead and introduce pink noise into the system, then analyze it. which will confirm that you don't know what you are talking about. go ahead and try it then adjust the volume as you can see what the mic does to your system. and there is no need to BS us either as I already done it years ago... and know the answer... I use the sa3055 audio control RTA and a calibrated mic.
as for the 212 E class, you will have to add an emergency speaker, as that is what the second set of coils on the speaker is for... explain to me what you would do for that? especially when trying to get the most out of the center channel? something bullet proof that will work with no power applied to it?
Emilner, your vehicle is completely different than his, audio system included. yours is capable of 7.1 DSP sound, not a true 7.1 as home, but similiar in way the DSP works.
there are many ways to approach a project that is an upgrade just do it correctly. you don't have the DSO, or sound optimization microphone so it will not need to be bypassed. If you do not have the hi-line system with the powered sub, your center channel is derived from the Left positive and right negative signals of the door speakers.
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Cleveland Ohio
beater with a heater
my next photo was going to be the studio...
emilner, for a center speaker that fits with no problems, check out the Hertz HL70.4, it has to be the .4 model though as it is the new version. i just used it in a 5.1 system with a separate tweeter, and I can only say phenomenal!
emilner, for a center speaker that fits with no problems, check out the Hertz HL70.4, it has to be the .4 model though as it is the new version. i just used it in a 5.1 system with a separate tweeter, and I can only say phenomenal!
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Cleveland Ohio
beater with a heater
Read a few posts before, it is dual voice coil because that is where the SOS system talks out of in an emergency...
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Huntington NY
S560
Sorry, missed that post. The wires you mentioned are for the emergency speaker right? You mentioned I might have a hi-line system w/ powered sub, how do you tell which system I have?
This sounds like good news. Now if I could get rid of the rattles in the car and thumping in the trunk...
This sounds like good news. Now if I could get rid of the rattles in the car and thumping in the trunk...
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Huntington NY
S560
There is the oddest looking sub I've seen in the rear deck. It looks like a 10-11" X 6-8". Its tough to see the actual dimensions b/c you can't see the whole speaker (definitely bigger than a 6X9). It also has dual VC's and they are inverted (where the cone would normally be). Strange speaker...
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From: www.Traben-Trarbach.de
MPG+ ROLFCOPTER
I've numerous subs where the magnet structure is inside of the cone due to space constraints. It allows for placement where a conventional sub would interfere or take up space and receive possible damage from objects shifting in the open space/trunk.
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From: Cleveland Ohio
beater with a heater
manufacturers do not want to put a space eating enclosure in the vehicle. so companies as HK, Bose, Mark Levinson, etc come up with funky designs... but at the same time it has to be cheap and affordable both to the manufacturer and the end user.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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E350
My friend: nice job you certainly did there. I have been strugling in the connection to upgrade mine, but now thanks to your guide I will be able to do it. The Star Tek website had everything I needed in terms of wiring diagrams. Just a couple of questions:
- Have you had any electrical problems thereafter with the car? The owners manual says that nothing is to be connected directly to the battery since it may damage the module controlling the two-battery module system.
- What could go wrong if I get a 4 ohm amp and connect it to the factory speakers as you did?
- If I get to change speakers, may I put three-way's instead of the component speakers?
- If I get a sub, should it be a free-air? or should I get an enclosed sub (like a bazooka or something) and put it in the trunk to have a nice thump?
Thanks!
- Have you had any electrical problems thereafter with the car? The owners manual says that nothing is to be connected directly to the battery since it may damage the module controlling the two-battery module system.
- What could go wrong if I get a 4 ohm amp and connect it to the factory speakers as you did?
- If I get to change speakers, may I put three-way's instead of the component speakers?
- If I get a sub, should it be a free-air? or should I get an enclosed sub (like a bazooka or something) and put it in the trunk to have a nice thump?
Thanks!
http://www.systembiz.com/W211Speaker...lifierinstall/
To take additional pictures I had to remove the side panel etc. and while I was at it, I increased the amplifier gain even more and OEM door speakers handled the extra power easily; it needs to be clean audio power. I have not had time to verify # of audio watts actually reaching each door speaker through Rockford Fosgate 600-4 amplifier, but experience tells me it is well in excess of 100W RMS per door, which is now extremely bad for your ears.
Even though OEM door tweeters are adequately handling additional audio power, I feel a need to turn them down a few DBs at higher volumes; I will soon publish comparitive output graphs . Since this thread is not about just replacing everything, not messing with or bypassing HK equalization and not installing additional audio equalizers, I will add an attentuator (easily done) to control tweeter output. Aftermarket speaker component systems usually come with adjustable crossovers that have slope and attentuation switches.
To take additional pictures I had to remove the side panel etc. and while I was at it, I increased the amplifier gain even more and OEM door speakers handled the extra power easily; it needs to be clean audio power. I have not had time to verify # of audio watts actually reaching each door speaker through Rockford Fosgate 600-4 amplifier, but experience tells me it is well in excess of 100W RMS per door, which is now extremely bad for your ears.
Even though OEM door tweeters are adequately handling additional audio power, I feel a need to turn them down a few DBs at higher volumes; I will soon publish comparitive output graphs . Since this thread is not about just replacing everything, not messing with or bypassing HK equalization and not installing additional audio equalizers, I will add an attentuator (easily done) to control tweeter output. Aftermarket speaker component systems usually come with adjustable crossovers that have slope and attentuation switches.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 18
From: Blaine, WA
07 E320 Bluetec
My friend: nice job you certainly did there. I have been strugling in the connection to upgrade mine, but now thanks to your guide I will be able to do it. The Star Tek website had everything I needed in terms of wiring diagrams. Just a couple of questions:
- Have you had any electrical problems thereafter with the car? The owners manual says that nothing is to be connected directly to the battery since it may damage the module controlling the two-battery module system.
- What could go wrong if I get a 4 ohm amp and connect it to the factory speakers as you did?
- If I get to change speakers, may I put three-way's instead of the component speakers?
- If I get a sub, should it be a free-air? or should I get an enclosed sub (like a bazooka or something) and put it in the trunk to have a nice thump?
Thanks!
- Have you had any electrical problems thereafter with the car? The owners manual says that nothing is to be connected directly to the battery since it may damage the module controlling the two-battery module system.
- What could go wrong if I get a 4 ohm amp and connect it to the factory speakers as you did?
- If I get to change speakers, may I put three-way's instead of the component speakers?
- If I get a sub, should it be a free-air? or should I get an enclosed sub (like a bazooka or something) and put it in the trunk to have a nice thump?
Thanks!
- The amp I installed is 2ohm/4ohm compatible. OEM speakers are 2ohm hence I selected a compatible amp since I went back to OEM speakers. I intend to replace OEM speakers with component speakers in the new year. Your amp needs to be compatible with installed speakers. You could use 4ohm compatible amp if you intend to replace OEM speakers with 4ohm ones.
- 3-way speakers will work fine but I have no experience with 3-way 6.5" round speakers.
- An enclosed sub would be the easiest option to install and it will give you a nice thump.
Last edited by pinebaron; Dec 22, 2009 at 09:10 PM.
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N/A
I dont know if i mentioned this before but the HK system that comes with the benz is really nice. The speakers themselves that is. With a little more amplification and good crossover points, they are even better. You would be very surprise of how good they sound when you send them about 50-75 rms to them.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 18
From: Blaine, WA
07 E320 Bluetec
I dont know if i mentioned this before but the HK system that comes with the benz is really nice. The speakers themselves that is. With a little more amplification and good crossover points, they are even better. You would be very surprise of how good they sound when you send them about 50-75 rms to them.
