phampau

I have searched and found bits and pieces of how to upgrade the radio in the w211 so I decided to do a write up on it. My car is a 2003 e55 with the HK system, so it has the MOST fiber optic system. Therefore, you will need to add an aftermarket amplifier to run the factory speakers.

Here's what is needed:
Aftermarket unit: I went with the Kenwood DDX719 double din.

Trim Bezel: From research, the connects2 kit is the best fitting one available so i decided to go that route. It has to be ordreded from UK and I found it on ebay for about $80 shipped to US. It comes with the mounting cage and trim. The part # is shown in the pics.

You will also need a antenna adapter and extension to convert the old antenna to the standard motorola plug. I went with
http://www.metraonline.com/part/Afte...tenna_44-EC204
and http://www.metraonline.com/part/Volk...ntenna_40-EU10 to convert from the audio gateway in the trunk.

I didn't use any radio harness as the factory unit only has 3 wires on the back of the radio. red/yellow is 12 volts, brown=ground, and beige is Most wakeup (not used). You have to tap into the cigarete lighter plug for switched 12V. I didn't care to find the dimmer/illumination wire and i didn't hook up the factory steering wheel controls as I've heard the response of the Swi-jack/adapter is pretty slow.

With that being said, here is the finished product. Still working on getting my baffle/sub right and the mids/highs in the door will be the next step. Feel free to ask any questions if you need any help.
New unit in! Fitment is pretty good with the connects2 kit.

Unit powered up!

Top left of a/c button is my bluetooth mic mounted in the instrument cluster trim

JL audio 12w6 mounted on a baffle board bolted to rear deck

Amp mounted in trunk under cover

6spdcoupe

Steering controls - midcity.

You should a lot more 'wood' for that baffle as well as top mounting.

phampau

I read alot of your post on diymobileaudio and I appreciate your suggestions! Midcity is a company for the steering controls? Also, for the baffle, do you think 2 of the 3/4 mdf is enough, so 1 1/2" thick? Thanks in advance. Paul

6spdcoupe

Midcity does a lot - remote starts, steering controls, integration for radar, etc. I would choose theirs, despite the cost, over any alternative. They work seamlessly, no learning or the likes. Just works !

Anytime my friend. For that sub, if you must use MDF, then at least 4. With Birch, you can maybe with 3. Density is key for a sub. MDF is surely cheaper, birch is lighter and substantially more dense. You can mix if you would like, such as the final bottom piece with MDF as a chamfer or roundover like MDF much better than Birch.

phampau

Will give midcity a call this week to see. Wow, 3" of mdf or 2.25 birch for the baffle? I'm not a car audio expert by any means so can you help explain to me what the benefit would be to run 3" thick baffle? Also if you have a moment, can you check out this link to my post and let me know your thoughts? Maybe a thicker baffle will solve my issues?
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ggestions.html

Thanks, Paul

6spdcoupe

At least, yes. Density is your friend. You are burning up a ton of energy and losing it just in that baffle. You need stiff, rigid and dense. The more the merrier, but there are limitations in a vehicle.

You said you subsonic is 28-30, what is the top end ? At what slopes are they ?

phampau

I've tried the low pass crossover anywhere from 60hz to 120hz. I've found around 80hz is the best. I'm using the built in crossover from the kenwood ddx719 headunit so i think it's -12db slope. I will do probably buy some birch and do a triple baffle to see if that works. My only issue is i'm bolting the mdf to the rear deck on the factory sheet metal, which isn't really thick to begin with, so maybe the factory rear deck metal is going to be my limitation before the wood ever will be?

6spdcoupe

So then your pass band is 28-80 ? What slope is the 28 ?

Non issue with the rear deck. I have done several of these cars with IB configs and no issues.

bfisher

Looks great. What are you considering replacing the speakers with? My local sound shop said the speaker openings are very shallow (2008 E320) and that it would be hard for me to get speakers to fit.

phampau

Sorry I missed your post! Been waiting for you to reply, but I guess it was there all along. The 28 is 12db slope also. Here's some interesting info I found today. I pulled the 12w6 off the rear deck, put it in the ported box that it came with, 1.5cu ft. The 45-60hz frequency sounds much better (a little boomy, how I like it), but the lower <45hz sounds/feels much weaker than when it was IB. So the question is, how can i have the best of both worlds? I have 400w @2 ohm and thinking I might try fitting 2 10's or 1 15" on the rear deck for better/more output? I really don't want to run another amp, so if it's doable with the 400w rms, that would be great! Paul

phampau

I went with the Hertz 165xl, they are very deep, but I used the factory door baffle so it cleared just fine. The only issue is that the factory door baffle have an angle on them that angles the mids to the front of the vehicle, which really makes the imaging poor. The other thing is that there is literally hardly any room to mount passive crossovers in the doors, so keep that in mind also. All in all, the system sounds much better than the factory HK system, but still not where I want it. Hope that helps. Paul

allenjdmb

this is an old thread, but...I would like to order one of the connects 2 kits for the kenwood unit in my 211. Yours looks and fits much nicer than mine ....can you help, thank you...

jbondox

Whats funny is that the OPTI-1 that was sitting in a box for 3 years would of worked and no need to replace the factory amplifier.

The connects 2 kit could be found on sonix electronics (not sure of the spelling)

jbondox

Also the AWSC1 from Metra, steering wheel controls, I have yet to experience lag on the button push, maybe not installed properly.