C250 Coupe Tune available from Burger-Motorsports?
#201
Junior Member
Spoke with Terry the other day and he is willing to fix the tune for me, it was not even a hassle and he said right away to ship it to him. I will be in Aruba for the next few weeks but will let you know when I get it fixed and update on how the run is. Guy or gal above me the email for Terry is terry@burgertuning.com. This guy is right on the money with responding and answering all questions which is comforting when buying a product over the internet, goodluck.
#202
Hi guys!
I'm very curious about the transmission work. I've tried the race-chip box - the transmission became jerky. The were powerful hits down there, so I had to remove it.
What about BMS box - how does it affect the transmission smoothness?
I'm very curious about the transmission work. I've tried the race-chip box - the transmission became jerky. The were powerful hits down there, so I had to remove it.
What about BMS box - how does it affect the transmission smoothness?
#205
My question is about transmission work. Is it absolutely smooth with extra power from BMS tune? Have you had any feeling that TCU can't deal with ECU? I'm asking, because I've had a bad experience with this: http://www.racechip.de/racechip-chip...EF-3919-r.html
Extra power made my C250 jerky. The shiftings were rough.
#206
#207
Member
Sorry, I will try one more time.
My question is about transmission work. Is it absolutely smooth with extra power from BMS tune? Have you had any feeling that TCU can't deal with ECU? I'm asking, because I've had a bad experience with this: http://www.racechip.de/racechip-chip...EF-3919-r.html
Extra power made my C250 jerky. The shiftings were rough.
My question is about transmission work. Is it absolutely smooth with extra power from BMS tune? Have you had any feeling that TCU can't deal with ECU? I'm asking, because I've had a bad experience with this: http://www.racechip.de/racechip-chip...EF-3919-r.html
Extra power made my C250 jerky. The shiftings were rough.
Question, if you remove the Racechip, is it smooth? or still rough? Have you try to remove it?
#208
hi, i already use the JB+. So far SO GOOD. The shifting for the gears still smooth and normal. What do you mean by jerky? I always use S Mode when im driving alone and when my wife and baby aboard, i use E Mode . So far the transmission work fine and smooth.
Question, if you remove the Racechip, is it smooth? or still rough? Have you try to remove it?
Question, if you remove the Racechip, is it smooth? or still rough? Have you try to remove it?
Waiting for my BMS to come
#209
Super Moderator
#210
Super Moderator
Well, you guys can add me to the list of C250 Coupes running the JB+.
My buddy MJ50 came over last night to help me install it. It wasn't as easy as a 5 minute job.
Aside from that, the install was smooth.
The car seems to have more power after 2.5k RPM. I like how the throttle response seems to have quickened as well. I don't like how at times when I'm accelerating, I feel a slight jerk. Maybe I just need to get used to it.
All in all, the car feels quicker and I think it was a very good mod for the money. I'll keep you guys updated.
#211
#212
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2012 c250 Coupe
I did this yesterday and my car no longer shudders on hard accelleration on upper RPMs, right before a shift. Also, I think it fixed my car going to limp mode on moderate/hard acceleration when I hope on freeway on ramp. Car feels so much better now.
I recommend if anyone installs jb+ or intake, disconnect your battery so that ECU can start fresh with the mods.
#213
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2012 C250 Coupe
Try disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery for 10 minutes so that the ECU can reset.
I did this yesterday and my car no longer shudders on hard accelleration on upper RPMs, right before a shift. Also, I think it fixed my car going to limp mode on moderate/hard acceleration when I hope on freeway on ramp. Car feels so much better now.
I recommend if anyone installs jb+ or intake, disconnect your battery so that ECU can start fresh with the mods.
I did this yesterday and my car no longer shudders on hard accelleration on upper RPMs, right before a shift. Also, I think it fixed my car going to limp mode on moderate/hard acceleration when I hope on freeway on ramp. Car feels so much better now.
I recommend if anyone installs jb+ or intake, disconnect your battery so that ECU can start fresh with the mods.
#214
Super Moderator
I'll try the throttle reset first:
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
#216
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2012 c250 Coupe
That sounds good, but I don't really want to disconnect the battery.
I'll try the throttle reset first:
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
I'll try the throttle reset first:
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
#217
Super Moderator
I did the reset last night and the car "seems" smoother, but I'm not sure if it worked.
But, I'm having problems with it.
When we installed it, I didn't touch any of the knobs or open it up.
I installed it on Thursday and it drove fine. I drove it on Friday morning and afternoon and it drove fine. I parked it on Friday night and didn't touch it until Tuesday morning. On Tuesday morning, 5 - 10 minutes into driving it, I noticed I had no power--the turbo wasn't engaging. I would push the throttle to 4,000 rpm and no power, no torque. Luckily I was able to pull over and turn off the car and restart it. After that, it was perfectly fine.
I e-mailed Terry and he said it sounds like an overboost error and to lower the boost. (Terry has been fantastic and very helpful the entire time.) I decided to see what happens after I do the throttle reset. So, last night before I left work, I did the throttle reset (not sure if it worked though) and the car drove perfect all night long.
This morning, the car was fine, but again 5-10 minutes into my morning commute, I lost power, ON THE FREEWAY. Luckily, I had built up enough speed that I was able to coast along and stop safely. When I stopped, I turned off the car and turned it back on. Car was fine after that.
Each of the times, I was just warming up the car and not even at more than 1/3 throttle. I never get past 3.5k rpm when I warm up. So there's no chance that the boost could have peaked. Any ideas?
But, I'm having problems with it.
When we installed it, I didn't touch any of the knobs or open it up.
I installed it on Thursday and it drove fine. I drove it on Friday morning and afternoon and it drove fine. I parked it on Friday night and didn't touch it until Tuesday morning. On Tuesday morning, 5 - 10 minutes into driving it, I noticed I had no power--the turbo wasn't engaging. I would push the throttle to 4,000 rpm and no power, no torque. Luckily I was able to pull over and turn off the car and restart it. After that, it was perfectly fine.
I e-mailed Terry and he said it sounds like an overboost error and to lower the boost. (Terry has been fantastic and very helpful the entire time.) I decided to see what happens after I do the throttle reset. So, last night before I left work, I did the throttle reset (not sure if it worked though) and the car drove perfect all night long.
This morning, the car was fine, but again 5-10 minutes into my morning commute, I lost power, ON THE FREEWAY. Luckily, I had built up enough speed that I was able to coast along and stop safely. When I stopped, I turned off the car and turned it back on. Car was fine after that.
Each of the times, I was just warming up the car and not even at more than 1/3 throttle. I never get past 3.5k rpm when I warm up. So there's no chance that the boost could have peaked. Any ideas?
Last edited by nlpamg; 08-15-2012 at 05:05 PM.
#218
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2012 C250 Coupe
I did the reset last night and the car "seems" smoother, but I'm not sure if it worked.
But, I'm having problems with it.
When we installed it, I didn't touch any of the knobs or open it up.
I installed it on Thursday and it drove fine. I drove it on Friday morning and afternoon and it drove fine. I parked it on Friday night and didn't touch it until Tuesday morning. On Tuesday morning, 5 - 10 minutes into driving it, I noticed I had no power--the turbo wasn't engaging. I would push the throttle to 4,000 rpm and no power, no torque. Luckily I was able to pull over and turn off the car and restart it. After that, it was perfectly fine.
I e-mailed Terry and he said it sounds like an overboost error and to lower the boost. (Terry has been fantastic and very helpful the entire time.) I decided to see what happens after I do the throttle reset. So, last night before I left work, I did the throttle reset (not sure if it worked though) and the car drove perfect all night long.
This morning, the car was fine, but again 5-10 minutes into my morning commute, I lost power, ON THE FREEWAY. Luckily, I had built up enough speed that I was able to coast along and stop safely. When I stopped, I turned off the car and turned it back on. Car was fine after that.
Each of the times, I was just warming up the car and not even at more than 1/3 throttle. I never get past 3.5k rpm when I warm up. So there's no chance that the boost could have peaked. Any ideas?
But, I'm having problems with it.
When we installed it, I didn't touch any of the knobs or open it up.
I installed it on Thursday and it drove fine. I drove it on Friday morning and afternoon and it drove fine. I parked it on Friday night and didn't touch it until Tuesday morning. On Tuesday morning, 5 - 10 minutes into driving it, I noticed I had no power--the turbo wasn't engaging. I would push the throttle to 4,000 rpm and no power, no torque. Luckily I was able to pull over and turn off the car and restart it. After that, it was perfectly fine.
I e-mailed Terry and he said it sounds like an overboost error and to lower the boost. (Terry has been fantastic and very helpful the entire time.) I decided to see what happens after I do the throttle reset. So, last night before I left work, I did the throttle reset (not sure if it worked though) and the car drove perfect all night long.
This morning, the car was fine, but again 5-10 minutes into my morning commute, I lost power, ON THE FREEWAY. Luckily, I had built up enough speed that I was able to coast along and stop safely. When I stopped, I turned off the car and turned it back on. Car was fine after that.
Each of the times, I was just warming up the car and not even at more than 1/3 throttle. I never get past 3.5k rpm when I warm up. So there's no chance that the boost could have peaked. Any ideas?
As far as those reset steps above go. That does NOT reset the ECU. It instead resets the TCU, which is the transmission control unit that creates the driver profiles for adaptive driving. When you reset it it goes back to stock settings, increasing sensitivity and responsiveness (until you start to drive like a granny again). I don't reccommend doing this with the tune as I did this and hit overboost often until the tranny adapted to the increased power.
#219
Super Moderator
I’m all for sensible performance modifications, but being left without thrust -through no fault of your own- is seldom a pleasant experience.
Best wishes on getting things squared away.
#220
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2012 c250 Coupe
Nlpamg and jctevere,
Do the battery disconnect (negative terminal) for 10 minutes. Trust me on this. I experienced the same exact symptoms both of you had:
1) losing boost/limp mode jumping on freeway in the morning (always in the morning, never after work)
2) having to let go of throttle when the car is "lurching" or else it will go to limp mode
Battery disconnect made the car much more smooth. I don't get that lurch and shifts feel smoother.
It's easy to get to battery: remove that plastic air circulation box on the upper left corner of engine bay by unclipping the 3 clips then then battery is right there.
You will thank me later.
Do the battery disconnect (negative terminal) for 10 minutes. Trust me on this. I experienced the same exact symptoms both of you had:
1) losing boost/limp mode jumping on freeway in the morning (always in the morning, never after work)
2) having to let go of throttle when the car is "lurching" or else it will go to limp mode
Battery disconnect made the car much more smooth. I don't get that lurch and shifts feel smoother.
It's easy to get to battery: remove that plastic air circulation box on the upper left corner of engine bay by unclipping the 3 clips then then battery is right there.
You will thank me later.
#221
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2012 C250
Just received mine and intending to install this weekend. Now I am a little concerned about it. Not interested in losing power when I pull out to pass someone ......
Reading over the directions I notice it says to lock the doors and wait 10 minutes ????? or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before installing anyway. Is this something that everyone has been neglecting to do or what?
Thanks
Reading over the directions I notice it says to lock the doors and wait 10 minutes ????? or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before installing anyway. Is this something that everyone has been neglecting to do or what?
Thanks
#222
Super Moderator
Just received mine and intending to install this weekend. Now I am a little concerned about it. Not interested in losing power when I pull out to pass someone ......
Reading over the directions I notice it says to lock the doors and wait 10 minutes ????? or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before installing anyway. Is this something that everyone has been neglecting to do or what?
Thanks
Reading over the directions I notice it says to lock the doors and wait 10 minutes ????? or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before installing anyway. Is this something that everyone has been neglecting to do or what?
Thanks
I turned down the adjustment by a notch. Mine came shipped at 50%. I don't know why I'm getting over boost at that level.
The knob stock:
OBDII reader:
The car seemed fine this morning, but I want to drive it for a bit before I make an evaluation.
Terry won't let me return it, but he advised me that it's covered by a 12 month warranty and that I can send it back to him to have them check it for any defects. I'll probably do that and sell it. If anyone is interested in purchasing mine, please let me know.
#223
Super Moderator
Nlpamg and jctevere,
Do the battery disconnect (negative terminal) for 10 minutes. Trust me on this. I experienced the same exact symptoms both of you had:
1) losing boost/limp mode jumping on freeway in the morning (always in the morning, never after work)
2) having to let go of throttle when the car is "lurching" or else it will go to limp mode
Battery disconnect made the car much more smooth. I don't get that lurch and shifts feel smoother.
It's easy to get to battery: remove that plastic air circulation box on the upper left corner of engine bay by unclipping the 3 clips then then battery is right there.
You will thank me later.
Do the battery disconnect (negative terminal) for 10 minutes. Trust me on this. I experienced the same exact symptoms both of you had:
1) losing boost/limp mode jumping on freeway in the morning (always in the morning, never after work)
2) having to let go of throttle when the car is "lurching" or else it will go to limp mode
Battery disconnect made the car much more smooth. I don't get that lurch and shifts feel smoother.
It's easy to get to battery: remove that plastic air circulation box on the upper left corner of engine bay by unclipping the 3 clips then then battery is right there.
You will thank me later.
I didn't know the symptoms were that severe. I'll try to disconnect the battery, but I'm not feeling this much anymore. Odd that it only does it in the mornings.
#224
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2012 C250 Coupe
I will try it and get back to you. I definitely did not do that when I installed it. Also, it seems ECU related. Because you will notice you will have a smooth ride or not within a few minutes. Also, if you drive aggressively, the car might do a little lurch, and you feel the ECU tweak settings, and then you get the lurching the whole time until you restart. I am going to contact a rogue MB mechanic and see if he can go in and change things manually to fix this.
Also, you don't lose ALL power, you just lose a lot of it. But the car will still accelerate, but unfortnuately, like a prius. LOL
Also, you don't lose ALL power, you just lose a lot of it. But the car will still accelerate, but unfortnuately, like a prius. LOL
#225
Super Moderator
I will try it and get back to you. I definitely did not do that when I installed it. Also, it seems ECU related. Because you will notice you will have a smooth ride or not within a few minutes. Also, if you drive aggressively, the car might do a little lurch, and you feel the ECU tweak settings, and then you get the lurching the whole time until you restart. I am going to contact a rogue MB mechanic and see if he can go in and change things manually to fix this.
Also, you don't lose ALL power, you just lose a lot of it. But the car will still accelerate, but unfortnuately, like a prius. LOL
Also, you don't lose ALL power, you just lose a lot of it. But the car will still accelerate, but unfortnuately, like a prius. LOL
If I wanted real power, I can drive my GT-R. This car was supposed to be a calm commuter that I wouldn't have to worry about and that I could take where I couldn't take my other cars (e.g. when I have to valet park it).
The power loss is not like a Prius, it's worse.
That being said, I'm not too impressed by it or happy with it.
I'm going to sell it:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-c...s-jb-c250.html
Last edited by nlpamg; 08-17-2012 at 08:01 PM.