djprov431

I installed the Burger tuning intake as well as the JB tuner - word of caution at least on the 2014 sport, it doesn't like the tuner at anything above 20% - it overboosts and ends up in limp mode with a check engine code for the overboost. Maybe after some time driving with it I can crank it up, time will tell.
Tint is 3M color stable 30% and you can also see the clear LED side markers that I installed last week.

Convergence

Thanks for the update! I was also thinking about get the JB+ for my 2014 c250 couple with sport plus. Even at 20%, do you feel the difference? Would you say it's worth the $280 spent. The extra HP would be nice but I'm more interested in the added torque.

Also, did you get the performance intake? If so, how is that with our car?

djprov431

I would have much rather enjoyed leaving the tuner at 50% because it was an absolutely noticeable rush of power, but that wasn't happening. At 20% it's noticeable in the rev range advertised but I actually have it set at 15% now. I tried it in E and S modes, S being much better as you can imagine. Is it worth the $ ? - well I'd like to think that the car will smarten up a little bit and I can start working the number back up, but if that doesn't happen I'm not sure what 15% is giving me...something yes, but not the advertised HP and torque for sure.
I sent the folks at Burger Motorsports an email and they stated even at MIN on the tuner there were gains, but again how much? Supposedly their dyno numbers were run at 100% on the tuner, I can't get it anywhere near that..at least not now...maybe there is some kind of learning curve for the ECU on the car? For now I wouldn't say I'm 100% satisfied. One more thing, now that I'm thinking about it - the supplied wiring for the tuner was too short to reach the ground lug and still make the MAF & solenoid connections in the center / front - I buttspliced the ground wire and added about 8" to it would work better.
As for the intake, yes I installed it. It makes it louder - a nice grunt under the hood but nothing that would bother you at all. I've had it through plenty of stop and go and highway travel and it's fine. You will hear the wastegate under heavy accelleration / shifts. With the intake and stock sport exhaust it does sound rather nice going through an underpass, it's really about the only time I ever noticed the stock exhaust actually sounds good..you just can't hear it in the car.

Convergence

Good to know. Keep us posted how the car will acclimate itself to the settings. I've been following the post about this tuner and it seems like everyone has had good results from disconnecting the negative on the battery for about 10 minutes to let the ECU "reboot" itself. Have you tried that yet? Thanks for the explanation on the intake. I think I'll order one as well.

Btw, great tip on the side marker. That's on my list, too.

djprov431

I haven't read anything that I recall about having the tuner installed and disconnecting the neg battery lead for better results - were people having a similar issue to what I've described above?
I do remember the supplied tuner instructions state to either have the car off and locked for 10 minutes or to disconnect the neg battery lead but I assume this is for stray voltage?
My car only has 1000 miles on it, I'm sure disconnecting the neg battery and running the tuner up again would be worth a shot if there's some hope of better results....just would hate to get the check engine light again, the dealer is not going to throw me another free visit I'm guessing.
FWIW, the tuner instructions also state that it comes pre-set to 50% and if you get negative results at 50% to tune it back in 10% increments until you get good driveability....I remember seeing posts where people were running above 70%...I'd love to know how.

I wonder, does disconnecting the battery lead clear the check engine light?

djprov431

Update - I read all 14 pages here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-c...torsports.html
Terry from Burger Motor Sports chimes in toward the middle through the end and states that the only way to prevent over-boost is to turn the dial down - doesn't appear he agrees that disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU does any good. He also states that even at the min setting there is gains as the range on the dial is 2.5 psi of total boost from min to max. I may or may not give the battery a try because from the entire 14 pages I think I'm the only car that can't run at the preset 50% setting without issues. I don't mind playing around with it a little bit if it ends up better.

Convergence

I was going through as well. Here are some of the remarks from people who have had issues. The topic seems to start from page 9 from Kevin82.

Kevin82 writes:

Try disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery for 10 minutes so that the ECU can reset.

I did this yesterday and my car no longer shudders on hard accelleration on upper RPMs, right before a shift. Also, I think it fixed my car going to limp mode on moderate/hard acceleration when I hope on freeway on ramp. Car feels so much better now.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-c...rsports-9.html

jctevere writes:
"Well, I was skeptical that disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes would do anything... But I am sure glad I did it. Acceleration is MUCH smoother, little to no jerkiness, and none of the inconsistent acceleration. DEFINITELY do it if you are experiencing any problems. I am at 100% tune power, have the intake and a free-flowing quad exhaust setup. The car doesn't seem to just blow all this crazy amount of air out of the exhaust like it used to. Previously when aggresively accelerating (around 65% accelerator depression) the car would shift and then feel like the engine was bogged down with too much boost or air. Now this issue doesn't happen or if it starts to occur, the engine quickly adjusts boost and fixes it. Much happier.

For instance, in some of my videos of my aftermarket quad exhaust. When shifting you can hear a release of air out of the back exhaust tips. It is similar to a C63 sound when shifting, but not nearly as aggressive. I would previously have this sound even when moderately accelerating. But now I only get this on WOT shifts. Additionally, my car pulls MUCH better, especially under WOT. I am going to do a new 0-60 run and post it to YouTube, I expect much better results.

Read more: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-coupe-c204/436096-c250-coupe-tune-available-burger-motorsports-10.html#ixzz2u3nwwIe4"

But on page 13, 2012 C250 Coupe seems to have some issues with the check engine light that eventually went away.

FWIW, thought rehashing this old info would be helpful.

Breitling65

May I ask what is called Sport in this coupe? Is this package or options in 2014?

Convergence

It is the 956 Sport Package Plus. With it, you get:
• 18-inch AMG twin 7-spoke wheels
• Rear lip spoiler
• Gloss Black side mirrors
• Exclusive-design front sport seats
• Black MB-Tex upholstery with DINAMICA inserts
• Red top-stitching throughout cabin
• Black floor mats with Red leather borders
• Red seat belts (Black seat belts optional for no charge)
• Flat-bottom performance steering wheel with Silver paddle shifters
• Racing-inspired suspension with constant-ratio Direct-steer system
• Larger, perforated 13.5" front and 11.8" rear brake discs
• Performance-tuned exhaust and transmission (with downshift rev-matching)

I was on the fence between the C350 with the sport plus vs the C250 with the sport plus. However, for some reason only the c250 got the additional direct steer system and "performance" tuned (whatever that means and the real life benefits) exhaust/transmission with rev-matching. That said, I wanted the direct steer and rev-matching. I don't know why MB couldn't add the direct steer and rev-matching on the C350...that would have been perfect.

Breitling65

Thanks, I guess they are trying to make C250 more attractive with all this not available back 2012.

djprov431

Well I disconnected the negative battery lead for about 15 minutes and while waiting returned to the tune dial to 40%. Went for a ride and was able to drive it "responsibly" but could tell if I put my foot in it I would get over boost. About 15 minutes into the ride I did get over boost at about 4000 rpm while steadily pressing on the accelerator in sport mode. I pulled into a shopping center and shut it off, restarted and it's been "ok" so far. I think I will try and leave it at 40% to see if there is any learning curve for the ECU instead of just tuning it down right away. I'll keep you posted.

djprov431

Drove the car to work this evening, 21 miles - figures an Audi A4 wanted to play - and then the check engine light and limp mode showed up......argh.
Pulled off into a gas station, turned off the car and adjusted the tuner to 30% and then proceeded to put my foot in it for the remainder of the ride...seemed to do fine, got it right at red line shifts a bunch of times....I guess I'll leave it at 30% for a while and see what happens. Of course now I have to visit the dealer again if I want the CEL off, pisses me off!

Convergence

Dude, that sucks...and thanks for keeping us posted. Must be a pain the **** to keep on going back to the dealer. Has the dealer said anything about your intake and tuner?
It would be interesting to see how the car continues to react to 30%.

Moreover, I'm surprised that Burger has not really done anything to change their documentation for newer models. Based on reading the multiple threads here on this forum, it seems like the JB+ applies more for 2012 models. However, based on your need to splice wires so that things will reach under your hood, perhaps the car configuration has slightly changed over a couple of years and BMS has not accounted for it. Again, it would be cool for BMS to either make changes to the wire length so that it fits newer models and/or document that on their site that slight modifications need to be made by the user. It does not seem as quite the "plug-and-play 5 minute drive away install" as described on their site.

djprov431

My dealership in Tampa is pretty cool so far - they know I have an intake and tuner and haven't given me any grief. For sure I believe the tuner is set up for 2012 model year and I'm not sure it's been revised for the later years. I will take some pictures of the install to show you how I had to lengthen the ground wire - no way it would reach the way it came. I plan to leave it on 30% for as long as it will stay out of limp mode to give the car an opportunity to adapt. If it doesn't I think I'll try it on MIN setting just for curiousity sake and depending on how that goes I may be taking it off entirely and selling it if it's not worth the hassle. I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow or the next day.

djprov431

Convergence

Thanks for sharing the pix...very informative. Since keeping it tuned at 30%, how has it been? Has it gone limp since?

And that's very cool of your dealer. That's at least one less thing to worry about.

djprov431

Yes, got limp mode with the 30%, moved it down to 10% and really put my foot in it today on the way to work. Full throttle starts and upshifts at redline in sport mode....no issues. I believe the max I can run on the tuner is 15% and 10% is probably where I'm going to keep it to limit the chance of yet another return trip to the dealer for a CEL reset. The car is plenty fast, my only real complaint is the sluggish way it leaves the line...but it spools up soon thereafter.
Maybe I'll break out the go pro and do a video in a few days and you guys can be your own judge if there is any improvement to be had - at least on the 2014.

Convergence

Wow, I was hoping for more with this tuner. I wonder if the "enhanced tuning of the transmission" (the description on the MB site for this model and package) from our Sport Plus Package is having some negative impacts on what the tuner can do. I agree on how the car is plenty fast but I was hoping for some extra power and torque off the line. I'm coming from a 2011 E350 which was a tank so the C250 felt really nimble and quick. But still, I wish there could be something done with the lag. I like the C250 because it is turbo and with it the torque at the lower RPM...I really thought that the lag could be remedied by a tuner.

Nevertheless, thanks for keeping us posted and keeping a good account with all your adjustments. It's been very helpful. I'm really starting to rethink if I should buy this or not.

djprov431

Here is a copy / paste of an email and response from BMS regarding my tuner concerns. FWIW, I have the tuner set to 10% now and my CEL has gone out by itself.

"I installed both the intake and the tuner last week. The tuner was preset to 50% and when I test drove the vehicle the first time it immediately went to limp mode / dead peddle when I gave it more than ½ throttle.
I moved the potentiometer to 40% and test drove – same results but check engine light illuminated.
Moved dial to 30% same results but took longer to happen
Moved dial to 20% and was able to drive the car but it wasn’t entirely very smooth – power was abrupt, left setting for 2 days.
Moved dial to 15% car seems to drive ok but I don’t think there’s much of a difference between stock and what I’m gaining at 15% dial position.
Mercedes dealer reset check engine light and confirmed code was over-boost.

I’ve read on some forum threads where people are running the tuner set from 70 to 100% (your dyno results claim to be done at 100%) – either Mercedes changed tune parameters on the 2014 sport or something is not right.
Thoughts?"

Reply -
You would have to run it on the lowest value that doesn't give you a check engine light. Even at 0 percent its still making much more power then stock. It only slightly adjusts boost so you are not losing power or anything at 10 or 20 percent.


Jeff T.
BurgerTuning.com
Email: Jeff@BurgerTuning.com

Convergence

hmm...that's a very esoteric answer. What does Jeff's reply really answer? You pay close to $300 on the tuner so that you don't lose power when set at 10 or 20%? And according to their data, what does "much more power" than stock mean?

That said, are you empirically feeling any difference to the performance at 10%? Even a slight boost? I was really hoping for good results on this thing. I guess my project will be working on making the car look somewhat cooler with dual exhausts instead of the tuner.

Thanks for keeping us updated!!

djprov431

Well I sent the following reply to Jeff:

"Jeff,
Thanks for your reply.
Since I communicated my concerns with you prior to ordering the tuner for my 2014 C250 sport, I feel I have been misled. Your email below states that even at 0% on the tuner my car is making “much more power than stock.” This claim cannot be backed up without a dyno sheet at various tune settings. I would be more than happy to have my vehicle run on a dyno to evaluate the current performance against the advertised claims of ~+20 hp and ~+40 torque. I would also request that if my car is not making “much more power than stock” that you happily accept your product back for a full refund. From my research it is apparent that your product has been much more successful on 2012 model years vice current production. Furthermore, the dyno sheet advertised for your product is run with your tuner at 100% and on a different model year production vehicle, hence my numerous questions prior to ordering.
Myself and many other enthusiasts from the MB Forums are anxious to have support for our newer vehicles, I look forward to sharing your reply."

djprov431

Jeff replied tonight - much appreciated that he did and also gave a bit more info:

"We make the tune and know exactly what is going on, on all the JB+'s tunes they make more power then stock on all settings. The setting just advances boost a bit within the already raised limit. We only set it at 50 for convenience since most would turn it up from 0 to play around with it. If you dyno your car you will see a gain of 20 plus HP in the midrange and 40 torque."


Jeff T.
BurgerTuning.com
Email: Jeff@BurgerTuning.com

Convergence

Again, I'm just not satisfied with Jeff's answers. His answers just raises more questions:

- We make the tune and know exactly what is going on, on all the JB+'s tunes they make more power then stock on all settings.
So if they know exactly what's going on, why must the users on 2014 cars have to splice the negative wire so that it fits properly? How much more power? They have not been able to clarify that. And if they know what's going on, they should know what's going on with C250s with the sports plus package that's been tuned differently

- The setting just advances boost a bit within the already raised limit.
So is Jeff implying that the boost starts at 0% with 20HP and 40 torque? If not, then what is the most optimal setting? It seems like this is something they should already know.

- We only set it at 50 for convenience since most would turn it up from 0 to play around with it.
For which model year cars? If they follow the multiple threads, they will know that many have experienced over boost. IF 50 is the defacto setting, then shouldn't it work out of the box in true plug and play style?

- If you dyno your car you will see a gain of 20 plus HP in the midrange and 40 torque.
At what setting? He has never been clear on this. With the assumption that it is 100%, then his statement is not true for all users because many have had to adjust it down to 40% or even lower. Jeff needs to be more clear on this remark.

Again, it's clear to me that the folks over at BMS do NOT know exactly what's going on. This product and their site is very misleading. I'm not questioning their products, I'm sure some of their other products are good quality stuff, it is just that the information they are providing is 1) very misleading and poorly documented and 2) not very clear on follow up responses for a company that knows exactly what's going on.

dj - I hope you can get some reprieve from the purchase of this tuner.

Convergence

hi dj - curious to know how the tuner has performed for you since you made the changes. Is the car adjusting nicely to the settings? anymore CEL?

djprov431

Haven't moved the tuner from the 10% setting and since the CEL went out it has not returned. I have been flogging the car pretty good, no issues. I can probably move it up to 15% and may do so later today as I have to get under the hood to change out the headlight bulbs (got some Xenon bulbs)