2014 sport coupe - tinted & tuned
Tint is 3M color stable 30% and you can also see the clear LED side markers that I installed last week.

Also, did you get the performance intake? If so, how is that with our car?
I sent the folks at Burger Motorsports an email and they stated even at MIN on the tuner there were gains, but again how much? Supposedly their dyno numbers were run at 100% on the tuner, I can't get it anywhere near that..at least not now...maybe there is some kind of learning curve for the ECU on the car? For now I wouldn't say I'm 100% satisfied. One more thing, now that I'm thinking about it - the supplied wiring for the tuner was too short to reach the ground lug and still make the MAF & solenoid connections in the center / front - I buttspliced the ground wire and added about 8" to it would work better.
As for the intake, yes I installed it. It makes it louder - a nice grunt under the hood but nothing that would bother you at all. I've had it through plenty of stop and go and highway travel and it's fine. You will hear the wastegate under heavy accelleration / shifts. With the intake and stock sport exhaust it does sound rather nice going through an underpass, it's really about the only time I ever noticed the stock exhaust actually sounds good..you just can't hear it in the car.
Last edited by djprov431; Feb 22, 2014 at 12:22 AM.
Btw, great tip on the side marker. That's on my list, too.
I do remember the supplied tuner instructions state to either have the car off and locked for 10 minutes or to disconnect the neg battery lead but I assume this is for stray voltage?
My car only has 1000 miles on it, I'm sure disconnecting the neg battery and running the tuner up again would be worth a shot if there's some hope of better results....just would hate to get the check engine light again, the dealer is not going to throw me another free visit I'm guessing.
FWIW, the tuner instructions also state that it comes pre-set to 50% and if you get negative results at 50% to tune it back in 10% increments until you get good driveability....I remember seeing posts where people were running above 70%...I'd love to know how.
I wonder, does disconnecting the battery lead clear the check engine light?
Last edited by djprov431; Feb 22, 2014 at 01:55 AM.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-c...torsports.html
Terry from Burger Motor Sports chimes in toward the middle through the end and states that the only way to prevent over-boost is to turn the dial down - doesn't appear he agrees that disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU does any good. He also states that even at the min setting there is gains as the range on the dial is 2.5 psi of total boost from min to max. I may or may not give the battery a try because from the entire 14 pages I think I'm the only car that can't run at the preset 50% setting without issues. I don't mind playing around with it a little bit if it ends up better.
Kevin82 writes:
Try disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery for 10 minutes so that the ECU can reset.
I did this yesterday and my car no longer shudders on hard accelleration on upper RPMs, right before a shift. Also, I think it fixed my car going to limp mode on moderate/hard acceleration when I hope on freeway on ramp. Car feels so much better now.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-c...rsports-9.html
jctevere writes:
"Well, I was skeptical that disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes would do anything... But I am sure glad I did it. Acceleration is MUCH smoother, little to no jerkiness, and none of the inconsistent acceleration. DEFINITELY do it if you are experiencing any problems. I am at 100% tune power, have the intake and a free-flowing quad exhaust setup. The car doesn't seem to just blow all this crazy amount of air out of the exhaust like it used to. Previously when aggresively accelerating (around 65% accelerator depression) the car would shift and then feel like the engine was bogged down with too much boost or air. Now this issue doesn't happen or if it starts to occur, the engine quickly adjusts boost and fixes it. Much happier.
For instance, in some of my videos of my aftermarket quad exhaust. When shifting you can hear a release of air out of the back exhaust tips. It is similar to a C63 sound when shifting, but not nearly as aggressive. I would previously have this sound even when moderately accelerating. But now I only get this on WOT shifts. Additionally, my car pulls MUCH better, especially under WOT. I am going to do a new 0-60 run and post it to YouTube, I expect much better results.
Read more: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-coupe-c204/436096-c250-coupe-tune-available-burger-motorsports-10.html#ixzz2u3nwwIe4"
But on page 13, 2012 C250 Coupe seems to have some issues with the check engine light that eventually went away.
FWIW, thought rehashing this old info would be helpful.
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• 18-inch AMG twin 7-spoke wheels
• Rear lip spoiler
• Gloss Black side mirrors
• Exclusive-design front sport seats
• Black MB-Tex upholstery with DINAMICA inserts
• Red top-stitching throughout cabin
• Black floor mats with Red leather borders
• Red seat belts (Black seat belts optional for no charge)
• Flat-bottom performance steering wheel with Silver paddle shifters
• Racing-inspired suspension with constant-ratio Direct-steer system
• Larger, perforated 13.5" front and 11.8" rear brake discs
• Performance-tuned exhaust and transmission (with downshift rev-matching)
I was on the fence between the C350 with the sport plus vs the C250 with the sport plus. However, for some reason only the c250 got the additional direct steer system and "performance" tuned (whatever that means and the real life benefits) exhaust/transmission with rev-matching. That said, I wanted the direct steer and rev-matching. I don't know why MB couldn't add the direct steer and rev-matching on the C350...that would have been perfect.
• 18-inch AMG twin 7-spoke wheels
• Rear lip spoiler
• Gloss Black side mirrors
• Exclusive-design front sport seats
• Black MB-Tex upholstery with DINAMICA inserts
• Red top-stitching throughout cabin
• Black floor mats with Red leather borders
• Red seat belts (Black seat belts optional for no charge)
• Flat-bottom performance steering wheel with Silver paddle shifters
• Racing-inspired suspension with constant-ratio Direct-steer system
• Larger, perforated 13.5" front and 11.8" rear brake discs
• Performance-tuned exhaust and transmission (with downshift rev-matching)
I was on the fence between the C350 with the sport plus vs the C250 with the sport plus. However, for some reason only the c250 got the additional direct steer system and "performance" tuned (whatever that means and the real life benefits) exhaust/transmission with rev-matching. That said, I wanted the direct steer and rev-matching. I don't know why MB couldn't add the direct steer and rev-matching on the C350...that would have been perfect.
Thanks, I guess they are trying to make C250 more attractive with all this not available back 2012.
Pulled off into a gas station, turned off the car and adjusted the tuner to 30% and then proceeded to put my foot in it for the remainder of the ride...seemed to do fine, got it right at red line shifts a bunch of times....I guess I'll leave it at 30% for a while and see what happens. Of course now I have to visit the dealer again if I want the CEL off, pisses me off!
It would be interesting to see how the car continues to react to 30%.
Moreover, I'm surprised that Burger has not really done anything to change their documentation for newer models. Based on reading the multiple threads here on this forum, it seems like the JB+ applies more for 2012 models. However, based on your need to splice wires so that things will reach under your hood, perhaps the car configuration has slightly changed over a couple of years and BMS has not accounted for it. Again, it would be cool for BMS to either make changes to the wire length so that it fits newer models and/or document that on their site that slight modifications need to be made by the user. It does not seem as quite the "plug-and-play 5 minute drive away install" as described on their site.
And that's very cool of your dealer. That's at least one less thing to worry about.
Maybe I'll break out the go pro and do a video in a few days and you guys can be your own judge if there is any improvement to be had - at least on the 2014.
Nevertheless, thanks for keeping us posted and keeping a good account with all your adjustments. It's been very helpful. I'm really starting to rethink if I should buy this or not.
"I installed both the intake and the tuner last week. The tuner was preset to 50% and when I test drove the vehicle the first time it immediately went to limp mode / dead peddle when I gave it more than ½ throttle.
I moved the potentiometer to 40% and test drove – same results but check engine light illuminated.
Moved dial to 30% same results but took longer to happen
Moved dial to 20% and was able to drive the car but it wasn’t entirely very smooth – power was abrupt, left setting for 2 days.
Moved dial to 15% car seems to drive ok but I don’t think there’s much of a difference between stock and what I’m gaining at 15% dial position.
Mercedes dealer reset check engine light and confirmed code was over-boost.
I’ve read on some forum threads where people are running the tuner set from 70 to 100% (your dyno results claim to be done at 100%) – either Mercedes changed tune parameters on the 2014 sport or something is not right.
Thoughts?"
Reply -
You would have to run it on the lowest value that doesn't give you a check engine light. Even at 0 percent its still making much more power then stock. It only slightly adjusts boost so you are not losing power or anything at 10 or 20 percent.
Jeff T.
BurgerTuning.com
Email: Jeff@BurgerTuning.com
That said, are you empirically feeling any difference to the performance at 10%? Even a slight boost? I was really hoping for good results on this thing. I guess my project will be working on making the car look somewhat cooler with dual exhausts instead of the tuner.
Thanks for keeping us updated!!
"Jeff,
Thanks for your reply.
Since I communicated my concerns with you prior to ordering the tuner for my 2014 C250 sport, I feel I have been misled. Your email below states that even at 0% on the tuner my car is making “much more power than stock.” This claim cannot be backed up without a dyno sheet at various tune settings. I would be more than happy to have my vehicle run on a dyno to evaluate the current performance against the advertised claims of ~+20 hp and ~+40 torque. I would also request that if my car is not making “much more power than stock” that you happily accept your product back for a full refund. From my research it is apparent that your product has been much more successful on 2012 model years vice current production. Furthermore, the dyno sheet advertised for your product is run with your tuner at 100% and on a different model year production vehicle, hence my numerous questions prior to ordering.
Myself and many other enthusiasts from the MB Forums are anxious to have support for our newer vehicles, I look forward to sharing your reply."
"We make the tune and know exactly what is going on, on all the JB+'s tunes they make more power then stock on all settings. The setting just advances boost a bit within the already raised limit. We only set it at 50 for convenience since most would turn it up from 0 to play around with it. If you dyno your car you will see a gain of 20 plus HP in the midrange and 40 torque."
Jeff T.
BurgerTuning.com
Email: Jeff@BurgerTuning.com
- We make the tune and know exactly what is going on, on all the JB+'s tunes they make more power then stock on all settings.
So if they know exactly what's going on, why must the users on 2014 cars have to splice the negative wire so that it fits properly? How much more power? They have not been able to clarify that. And if they know what's going on, they should know what's going on with C250s with the sports plus package that's been tuned differently
- The setting just advances boost a bit within the already raised limit.
So is Jeff implying that the boost starts at 0% with 20HP and 40 torque? If not, then what is the most optimal setting? It seems like this is something they should already know.
- We only set it at 50 for convenience since most would turn it up from 0 to play around with it.
For which model year cars? If they follow the multiple threads, they will know that many have experienced over boost. IF 50 is the defacto setting, then shouldn't it work out of the box in true plug and play style?
- If you dyno your car you will see a gain of 20 plus HP in the midrange and 40 torque.
At what setting? He has never been clear on this. With the assumption that it is 100%, then his statement is not true for all users because many have had to adjust it down to 40% or even lower. Jeff needs to be more clear on this remark.
Again, it's clear to me that the folks over at BMS do NOT know exactly what's going on. This product and their site is very misleading. I'm not questioning their products, I'm sure some of their other products are good quality stuff, it is just that the information they are providing is 1) very misleading and poorly documented and 2) not very clear on follow up responses for a company that knows exactly what's going on.
dj - I hope you can get some reprieve from the purchase of this tuner.
Maybe I'll break out the go pro and do a video in a few days and you guys can be your own judge if there is any improvement to be had - at least on the 2014.








