Help. ABS light on C280. Here are some clues for you experts.
* Key in. Foot on brake pedal.
* Key to position #2 (pre-start). All idiot lights come ON.
* Key to position #3. Engine starts instantly. All dash lights go OUT, including ABS.
* Foot OFF the brake pedal. ABS light comes ON. (Note: if I start the engine with foot OFF brake pedal, ABS light stays ON.)
* Checked battery connections (disconnected for 10 minutes), then brake fluid, brake lights, fuses, and inspected (but did not replace) front wheel sensors, brake pedal switch, rear differential speed sensor, multi-pin connectors in trunk. Unplug, inspect, plug back in. All look clean and tight.
* Drive the car. Everything works ... except and CRUISE CONTROL. That has to be a clue.
* Note: the same day Wifey also says the driver's seat belt chime/warning isn't working -- the one that warns you if you drive without being buckled in. Is there a connection? Hard to see the relevance.
Any ideas? Much obliged if you can share them. Thanks a million.
Last edited by RProsser; May 29, 2006 at 03:01 PM.
Changing all three sensors is pretty straightforward, but the brake pedal switch looks to be a hassle to remove (I wrestled with the hood release lever). The brake lights work, so I assume the switch is okay?
Action 1: Two weeks ago I had a MBZ mechanic replace the brake switch. Actually, twice. First one was faulty! It got stuck in the "on" position. Drove it like that for 30 miles or more.
Result: Although the ABS is off when I start the car, it will comes back on a few miles later. It's not a repeatable problem, but sometimes it comes on after a stop sign/right or left turn.
Action 2: Last week I had the error codes read by the same MBZ mechanic:
- ABS: "C-1200 stop switch"
- Engine: "P1584 stop switch"
What? It's a new swtich in there!? The mechanic checked the switch and said it's working fine. Note: Since the first stop switch had been stuck "on" for a while, I changed all the brake light bulbs because of the excessive heat (one was black inside). Just a precaution in case a bad bulb can have an effect on the ABS system (a stretch, I know).
Result: Drove it all week ... same problem exactly. Looks good for a while, then it comes on. Typically while going slow and turning sharply. IS THIS A CLUE?
Action 3: Today, I changed both front ABS wheel speed sensors.
Result: Oddly, the light was on when I started the car this time. It went out after about 100 yards of driving. Then, as usual, a few miles later, while navigating the neighborhood streets, it back came on.
The question: Should I have reset the system when I changed the sensors? Do I keep moving, changing the REAR sensor next?
Thanks for any advice.
First Mercedes "specialist":
- First new brake switch installed was faulty. It failed thirty miles from home. I drove back not knowing my brake lights had been on the entire time (remember this part).
- Second new brake switch installed. Seemed to fix the problem -- for a while. Then the ABS light came on again. Same basic problem as before. Codes read "brake light switch." Weeks later I started getting a bulb warning light. Replacing the brake light bulbs turned it off, but the problem would surface in a few days.
The shop showed no real interest in helping further. They said: "Make an appointment next Thursday. We'll have to keep it for a few days -- maybe we can find the problem. Probably an ABS control unit."
New Mercedes specialist -- a real one:
- Called a new mechanic. "Hans" asked for me to come over immediately. Took the time and interest in the car. Spent an hour right then to read the codes, drive car, re-read the codes. It came up every time "Brake light switch." He put in a third new switch. I also mentioned the brakes lights had stuck on for thirty miles. We inspected the rear multi bulb housings very closely. They appear to have slightly warped/burned areas where the bulbs are held. Possibly this now causes a high resistance situation, hence a bulb out warning when there isn't one. We replaced both units and installed all new bulbs.
End of problem! I have driven the car for about 150 miles and all lights stay out.
The problem got complicated when the fist shop installed a questionably "new" first switch. I say this because they showed it to me before they put it in. The bag had already been opened. My sense told me it's not 100% new. It was just a hunch, but look at the result. Keep this in mind when your ABS light goes on and you think replacing a suspected part with new instantly solves the problem.
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I am having intermittent ABS lights on my 1996 C280, and 2005 E350.
The Trouble Code for the 2005 is "C225C", which I managed to find it listed by someone as a "ABS Intermittent".
Anyone have a good source to recommend for looking up trouble code descriptions?
I have seen some listed here in the wiki for some cars, but mostly they are Powertrain "P" codes. I would like to know of a complete list, and description...
Thanks.
And any one else who is having intermitent ABS light on their W202.
My 96' C280 started with intermitent ABS light that in 8 months since first appearing, went from a monthly light showing (which reset after parking the car for a few hours -cool down-) and got slowly worse till the last two months was coming on sometimes daily (but did a couple times go away for up to five days)..
Trouble code gave me Pump and pump relay... I was not aware of the relay... changed it, and problem solved (had a bit of corrosion on one leg; sealed unit, possibly internal green stuff too..)
Always try the relay before going for anything expensive (relay is cheap as speed sensors are, and easy to change).



