C230 Kompressor problem
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2000 CLK 320
C230 Kompressor problem
My C230K has no power whatsoever. I'm basically running NA. It has no passing power, and when I floor it, the rpm's increase but the car doesn't go anywhere then gradually increases in speed.
I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and even replaced it with a known good one (not new). I see the kompressor clutch spinning but don't really see or hear it disengage or engage, it's just spinning. I've hooked up an SDS and checked the actual values of the supercharger and at idle the clutch is off, and when rpm's are increased it stays off.
On startup, the bypass valve is open and when I increase the rpm's to >2000 it stays open. I'm not sure if the bypass valve stays open because the kompressor clutch is off or if it's supposed to close at a certain rpm. Either way it stays open.
I work at a Mercedes dealer, and some techs are saying the kompressor clutch is siezed, or it could be the bypass valve, or even the k40 relay. I'm not sure.
Here are the codes I pulled: P1236 Magnetic clutch of compressor: output stage is faulty; P0136 G3/6 (Right O2 sensor, after TWC [KAT]); P0170-022 Selfadaptation of mixture formation ME-SFI control module (N3/10): 'part load' for right bank of cylinders at limit value; P0170-023 Selfadaptation of mixture formation ME-SFI control module (N3/10): 'idle speed' for right bank of cylinders at limit value.
Sorry for the long post. I hope some diagnostic masters will chime in with any info.
PS. air filter has been changed less than a month ago and spark plugs have been changed too. I've owned the vehicle about 2 months now and that's all that has been done so far.
Thanks,
Mike G.
I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and even replaced it with a known good one (not new). I see the kompressor clutch spinning but don't really see or hear it disengage or engage, it's just spinning. I've hooked up an SDS and checked the actual values of the supercharger and at idle the clutch is off, and when rpm's are increased it stays off.
On startup, the bypass valve is open and when I increase the rpm's to >2000 it stays open. I'm not sure if the bypass valve stays open because the kompressor clutch is off or if it's supposed to close at a certain rpm. Either way it stays open.
I work at a Mercedes dealer, and some techs are saying the kompressor clutch is siezed, or it could be the bypass valve, or even the k40 relay. I'm not sure.
Here are the codes I pulled: P1236 Magnetic clutch of compressor: output stage is faulty; P0136 G3/6 (Right O2 sensor, after TWC [KAT]); P0170-022 Selfadaptation of mixture formation ME-SFI control module (N3/10): 'part load' for right bank of cylinders at limit value; P0170-023 Selfadaptation of mixture formation ME-SFI control module (N3/10): 'idle speed' for right bank of cylinders at limit value.
Sorry for the long post. I hope some diagnostic masters will chime in with any info.
PS. air filter has been changed less than a month ago and spark plugs have been changed too. I've owned the vehicle about 2 months now and that's all that has been done so far.
Thanks,
Mike G.
#2
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You could be chasing multiple problems. I am not an expert and you have the SDS, so you are ahead of me. Except for the P1236, I would have guessed you had an MAF problem and/or O2 sensor problem. I have to diagnose this right now too. If an MAF problem and/or O2 sensor problem gets real bad, the ECU will not let the kompressor engage but since you have the the P1236 error it sounds like you may have a mechanical kompressor error too.
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2000 CLK 320
So I should try the maf and o2 sensor?
So if those don't fix it then the P1236 code basically means I need a new kompressor clutch, right?
Mike G.
So if those don't fix it then the P1236 code basically means I need a new kompressor clutch, right?
Mike G.
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Update: swapped k40 relay with a known good one, no change.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a new kompressor clutch. Or just get a rebuilt kompressor with clutch.
Mike G.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a new kompressor clutch. Or just get a rebuilt kompressor with clutch.
Mike G.
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2000 CLK 320
I replaced the kompressor clutch with a new one. I ended up selling the C230k last October, but it turns out in addition to the air mass sensor it also needed a new trans control unit.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hi Rico, I wonder if you could help me out?
I am looking for the variant coding number of a C230K W202 Auto
For the engine ECU ME2.0
If you have a car like that in your shop could you check it for me please/
Would really appreciate it. I have a unit i am trying to code.
I am looking for the variant coding number of a C230K W202 Auto
For the engine ECU ME2.0
If you have a car like that in your shop could you check it for me please/
Would really appreciate it. I have a unit i am trying to code.
#9
Thanks!
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2000 CLK 320
I'll see what I can do about the coding, we've been pretty busy lately.
The clutch was definitely part of the problem. It was seized and made a loud noise. After replacing it, no noise and a little more power.
The clutch was definitely part of the problem. It was seized and made a loud noise. After replacing it, no noise and a little more power.
#12
Hi
I have a CLK W208 230 Kompressor 1999
the kompressor clutch will not engage
after taking it to the mechanics he informed me that the clutch need to be changed and no parts available so we should change the whole kompressor
BAS/ASR light is on
a defective fuse on the k40 relay (Fuse number 3 15A)
when changing it the light goes off
but when the RPM reaches 2000 the fuse will fries and the light comes on again
plz advise if someone already had this problem?
and how to solve it should i change the kompressor or the K40 relay ?
i removed the relay and the soldering are not torn
I have a CLK W208 230 Kompressor 1999
the kompressor clutch will not engage
after taking it to the mechanics he informed me that the clutch need to be changed and no parts available so we should change the whole kompressor
BAS/ASR light is on
a defective fuse on the k40 relay (Fuse number 3 15A)
when changing it the light goes off
but when the RPM reaches 2000 the fuse will fries and the light comes on again
plz advise if someone already had this problem?
and how to solve it should i change the kompressor or the K40 relay ?
i removed the relay and the soldering are not torn
#14
Were you able to remove the entire K40 assembly and inspect the board itself or did you just check the plug in relay on top? Search for k40 relay fix on youtube for instructions on checking the board itself.