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List of faults that occur after disconnecting battery...
#151
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Jersey
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C240 96 Impala SS 6 speed conversion
I have an Interstate MTP 49 due to arrive tomorrow. As the 2014 calender is running out of pages my 2005 C240 is still running its original battery. Being almost 10 years in service and facing our first Polar Vortex I know its TIME to replace it with 910 fresh cranking amps.
As a preemptive move I thought it wise to search this fourm for any helpful hints as I remember something somewhere saying it was easy to do damage when dealing with a dead battery. What could go wrong?
I was unprepared for 6 full pages of posts about something so routine as replacing a vehicles battery! German cars are confounding to most of their (American) owners.
Does anyone else see the comic tragedy playing out here?
I read the manual, and it was clear.
Time will tell.
As a preemptive move I thought it wise to search this fourm for any helpful hints as I remember something somewhere saying it was easy to do damage when dealing with a dead battery. What could go wrong?
I was unprepared for 6 full pages of posts about something so routine as replacing a vehicles battery! German cars are confounding to most of their (American) owners.
Does anyone else see the comic tragedy playing out here?
I read the manual, and it was clear.
Time will tell.
#152
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Yorba Linda, Ca
Posts: 73
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2006 C230 Sport Sedan
#153
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Jersey
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C240 96 Impala SS 6 speed conversion
Well the Interstate brand battery worked as advertised.
I followed the instruction in the C240's easy to read Owners Manual and everything went smoothly.
The best benefit reading this thread was the little red button on the drivers side strut/arm that props open the hood! I never knew it was there. No mention of it in the manual.
Thanks to this forum / thread I learned it was there and trust me when I tell you it is soooo much easier to remove/replace that super-sized battery with the hood aiming a full 180 degrees straight up!
Who expected such a little car to have such a beast of a battery?
No computers/fuses blown, no trouble to report at all!
I followed the instruction in the C240's easy to read Owners Manual and everything went smoothly.
The best benefit reading this thread was the little red button on the drivers side strut/arm that props open the hood! I never knew it was there. No mention of it in the manual.
Thanks to this forum / thread I learned it was there and trust me when I tell you it is soooo much easier to remove/replace that super-sized battery with the hood aiming a full 180 degrees straight up!
Who expected such a little car to have such a beast of a battery?
No computers/fuses blown, no trouble to report at all!
#154
after replacing the battery.i got all the warnings on the dash,plus,the power steering became slow,and the power brakes stopped assisting,and the anti lock quit.
any help will be appreciated
any help will be appreciated
#155
Senior Member
So is it really as easy as just turning on the car disconnecting and removing the battery and replacing it? This is a German car, I'm sure there is some other trivial process behind that. Like the car has to be at a 45 degree angle forward, with the outside temperature at 55F, the moon full, clear skies and with a wind no greater than 10mph but no lower than 5mph. Lol
Does the negative terminal come off first?
Does the negative terminal come off first?
#156
Super Member
So is it really as easy as just turning on the car disconnecting and removing the battery and replacing it? This is a German car, I'm sure there is some other trivial process behind that. Like the car has to be at a 45 degree angle forward, with the outside temperature at 55F, the moon full, clear skies and with a wind no greater than 10mph but no lower than 5mph. Lol
Does the negative terminal come off first?
Does the negative terminal come off first?
Most important: and sacrifice a virgin! any species will do. A blood sucking mosquito squashed on your windshield will do!
as for negative or positive first, it does not matter from an electrical circuit perspective.
#157
MBWorld Fanatic!
It is recommended that you disconnect the negative terminal first and reconnect the negative terminal last. I believe the theory is that any stored capacitance will have nowhere to discharge to that way.
#158
MBWorld Fanatic!
#159
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2006 C230 Sport Sedan
You lucked out
http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_...ct_battery.htm
http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_...ct_battery.htm
#160
Senior Member
Yes removing the battery terminals from a car when it was running is an OLD trouble shooting trick to check the alternator on cars before they had so many computer operated systems/components. You can do this on an old carbureted motor say from the '70s and older but not on anything manufactured recently.
#161
Replacing my 05 CLK 500 BATTERY
I've been burned once with a mechanic trying to jump and replacing a battery on this car. It cost a fortune to fix what all it blew out. Now I'm dealing with another dead battery. Staying away from the $tealer but fearful to change the battery. Sad statement to owning a car.
#162
i just got a card((ESP,,,,,,,,,,,))
i will install it on the car when i come back from FLORIDA, in about three months.
in the mean time,car is running OK((no abs,esp, with a stiff steering,and check engine))
hanks for your comments.
i will install it on the car when i come back from FLORIDA, in about three months.
in the mean time,car is running OK((no abs,esp, with a stiff steering,and check engine))
hanks for your comments.
#163
hi guys hope you can help I just replaced a front sam on a w203 now the reverse lights stays on i have programmed the sam but still the reverse lights stays on. When i put the old sam back the reverse lights stays off but front indicators doesn't work and when i fit the new one the indicators works.
#164
Hi Guys,
Sorry to take y'all back again. I seem to be experiencing a funny issue that hasn't quite been fully covered here. Most of it has but not all. My c230 05 sport has been grounded for just about a month and a half. I went to check on it but its dead. Doors don't open via the remote key, ignition won't turn, Indicators don't work the LCD Odometer though displays. The mechs jumpstarted it and drove it around. It moves but the accelerometer shows no signs, fuel gauge doesnt read a thing ac is not working. windows don't work. Switched it off but refuses to turn on again. Please anyone with any insight. I kindly implore you to help please.
Sorry to take y'all back again. I seem to be experiencing a funny issue that hasn't quite been fully covered here. Most of it has but not all. My c230 05 sport has been grounded for just about a month and a half. I went to check on it but its dead. Doors don't open via the remote key, ignition won't turn, Indicators don't work the LCD Odometer though displays. The mechs jumpstarted it and drove it around. It moves but the accelerometer shows no signs, fuel gauge doesnt read a thing ac is not working. windows don't work. Switched it off but refuses to turn on again. Please anyone with any insight. I kindly implore you to help please.
#165
Battery removable problems
Hello everyone. I have a 2008 Mercedes Benz C300. Up until last weekend it ran perfectly. I went out one day and tried to start it and it was dead in the water. I had a friend check the battery and it was dead, old and we replaced it with a new one. That's when the trouble began. Upon installing the new battery I got an engine light, air Bag lite and a message stating right front SRS malfunction. But most troublesome is the engine fan, As soon as the vehicle is started it turns on and seem to be in turbo mode. It wont shut off until the engine is turned off. Before I take it in to the dealer I was wondering if anyone has any ideas or suggestions. It would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
David Ratowski
Hanoverdave@aol.com
Thank You
David Ratowski
Hanoverdave@aol.com
#166
Battery died...replaced...interior lights, Radio now out
So frustrating. Have a 2000 ML320 (an oldie but a goodie) Has about 88K miles on it. Battery died completely. Had it replaced by AAA. The mechanic was leaving and i realized the interior lights weren't coming on, nor would they turn on when the overhead light was pressed. He said "it's probably a fuse" and told me to take it in to Dealer. Drove home and the "Enter Security code" came on screen of the radio. I have no idea. (bought it used 3 yrs ago, have no code) Have been thru the Owners Manual like 3 x - don't even see reference to the security code OR the radio at all. WHY i ask you, WHY would a radio need to have a security code? ANYWAY, I know now after reading posts here i can call the Dealer with VIN to try and get my security code. Wonder though if others experience the LIGHTS interior going out with a battery switch...should i start with fuses and avoid a trip and hefty charge at the dealer? (It IS Christmas time, after all!) Thanks all
#167
MBWorld Fanatic!
Wrong forum but your problem is pretty generic. Radio takes a code so people won't steal it for resale. Check fuses but I doubt it, probably the front SAM (electronic module) as that's a common failure - especially when the battery is replaced and they don't remove/install the battery cables in the right order. Use an indy mechanic to save a few $$.
#169
Someone care to weigh in on this? Seems like a BAD Idea to me. Don't know a whole lot of indepth information on Mercedes, but just common car logic would suggest that disconnecting the battery while the car is running would tell the alternator that the battery is dead (not missing) and the alternator would start driving power to charge it. Which would be a ton of AMPs and a shocking experience.
I would not advise this at all
#170
MBWorld Fanatic!
Why not connect the new battery to the external terminals under the hood,
then remove the old one,
then connect the old one to the same terminals under the hood,
disconnect the new one and install?
That way at all times there is power supplied to the electronics.
You just need two sets of jumper cables.
then remove the old one,
then connect the old one to the same terminals under the hood,
disconnect the new one and install?
That way at all times there is power supplied to the electronics.
You just need two sets of jumper cables.
#172
This was written by an MB techie in the UK and a safe way to do the job.
---------------------------------------------------------------
After so much right and wrongs on this subject a couple of us thought it might be helpful to other members to help explain what can go wrong with battery changes and jump starting.
First of all i wouldn’t recommend anybody jump starting from there car to another or other way round!!!
You can buy jump and carry booster packs which have surge protection built in, when you connect up to your flat battery the jump pack slowly increases the voltage up to 12.50 volt, hence no surge, also taskmaster sell a good set of jump leads which have a surge protector built in.
Flat batteries
For whatever reason you might find yourself with a flat battery, rule number one, don’t jump from another car! The other car would be running and the battery voltage would be far higher than the safe 12.50 volt.
203 (and other) models tend to blow the rear sam, have also seen dashboard modules blown, EIS blown, front sams and so on, all due to jumpstarting! I admit sometimes you might not have any other choice but to use jump leads, if that’s the case my advice would be, key out, heads lights on, other car not running, connect leads, start other car, tick over only, turn light back off and let other car just put some charge in for 5 mins, no need to rev the hell out of the car your using to jump, max outlet from alternator is around the 1500rmp mark, then try starting.
As said that’s only my advice!!!!
Battery changes (203)
Needed will be a set of leads and a slave battery,
push the red button on the bonnet stay in to open the bonnet to its full
just next to the battery you will find a red cap with a + on it, this is the so call jump point, this is where you would connect your positive lead from the slave battery, on the off side you will find an earth point bolted to the top strut, use this for your earth lead from slave battery, now the car is live, disconnect the positive lead from the battery and tape up fully, this will stop any shorts, where the lead comes thought the plastic, you can lift up the small bit of trim and remove lead right out the way, just be aware that the clips holding this trim are very sharp, then what I do is pull the lead right out the way and tuck it under the brake pipes, hence the tape, disconnect neg lead and battery clamp, replace battery, do not disconnect slave battery until both leads are back onto new battery otherwise damage COULD be caused.
This is only the way I change them and I’m sure other people will have their thoughts on this, if it saves just one person spending out then I will be pleased,
if you want to add any views or anything you think I have missed Malcolm please feel free to correct or add,
Cost of rear sam about £225!
cole
---------------------------------------------------------------
After so much right and wrongs on this subject a couple of us thought it might be helpful to other members to help explain what can go wrong with battery changes and jump starting.
First of all i wouldn’t recommend anybody jump starting from there car to another or other way round!!!
You can buy jump and carry booster packs which have surge protection built in, when you connect up to your flat battery the jump pack slowly increases the voltage up to 12.50 volt, hence no surge, also taskmaster sell a good set of jump leads which have a surge protector built in.
Flat batteries
For whatever reason you might find yourself with a flat battery, rule number one, don’t jump from another car! The other car would be running and the battery voltage would be far higher than the safe 12.50 volt.
203 (and other) models tend to blow the rear sam, have also seen dashboard modules blown, EIS blown, front sams and so on, all due to jumpstarting! I admit sometimes you might not have any other choice but to use jump leads, if that’s the case my advice would be, key out, heads lights on, other car not running, connect leads, start other car, tick over only, turn light back off and let other car just put some charge in for 5 mins, no need to rev the hell out of the car your using to jump, max outlet from alternator is around the 1500rmp mark, then try starting.
As said that’s only my advice!!!!
Battery changes (203)
Needed will be a set of leads and a slave battery,
push the red button on the bonnet stay in to open the bonnet to its full
just next to the battery you will find a red cap with a + on it, this is the so call jump point, this is where you would connect your positive lead from the slave battery, on the off side you will find an earth point bolted to the top strut, use this for your earth lead from slave battery, now the car is live, disconnect the positive lead from the battery and tape up fully, this will stop any shorts, where the lead comes thought the plastic, you can lift up the small bit of trim and remove lead right out the way, just be aware that the clips holding this trim are very sharp, then what I do is pull the lead right out the way and tuck it under the brake pipes, hence the tape, disconnect neg lead and battery clamp, replace battery, do not disconnect slave battery until both leads are back onto new battery otherwise damage COULD be caused.
This is only the way I change them and I’m sure other people will have their thoughts on this, if it saves just one person spending out then I will be pleased,
if you want to add any views or anything you think I have missed Malcolm please feel free to correct or add,
Cost of rear sam about £225!
cole
well thought of
#173
#175
Battery or Alarm?
Whilst away recently the alarm on my 2000 C320 w203 went off so that when I returned the battery was flat. I had the battery removed and put on charge but it turned out to be unable to hold a charge and so I bought a new one. On trying to fit the new battery, negative first, I find that as soon as the positive is connected the alarm goes off. Is there anyway to stop this? Thanks, David