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2005 C230 Sport Kompressor: 141,000 miles. I'm the original owner when i bought this car brand new back in 2005. Changed 1 alternator last week along with drive belt. Last month changed out the cam magnet solenoids, all filters liquid and dry, spark plugs, a few bypass hoses, all liquids, and intake manifold hose leading to the air filter ( reason why is because the older one was dry and just unravailing itself ). Other items to note of changing: wiper fluid pump, tires, 4 sets of front brakes / rotors, 1 set of rear pads / rotors, and one battery. Things that are not working properly is the CD player in the dash unit, and the 6 disk CD changer. I just need to find a newer 6 disc holder as the one I have is the original and warped from heat. I just use my aux jack to play my music through blue tooth ( iphone ) and direct plug in with my ipod. The rear shade is stuck and not functional. All minor issues to me. Other than that, the car is never abused or taken to red line and garaged. The C230 is holding up pretty strong and still pulls like when I bought it brand new.
Let me know what you need for your cd changer. I have the HK system and went aftermarket. I'd be happy to help you out with my stock stuff if I can. Also did you do the hood emblem change or did it come stock like that. I've been pondering if I was going to go for it, but after seeing yours I'm in.
Let me know what you need for your cd changer. I have the HK system and went aftermarket. I'd be happy to help you out with my stock stuff if I can. Also did you do the hood emblem change or did it come stock like that. I've been pondering if I was going to go for it, but after seeing yours I'm in.
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I was wondering, since you had the HK system in your 05 C230 Sport sedan, what did it take to change over to a aftermarket system ? How did you get around the fiber optic wiring ?
The car came with the floating star, but I changed it out to this flat emblem set-up. I got it off of Ebay. Just make sure when you order one, get the OEM Mercedes Benz flat emblem. Way better quality than most after market brands. The part number for the flat emblem is: A 204 817 06 16.
I went with an android double din head unit that is similar to the Seicane units. I saw one on ebay and offered them $350 and they sent me a new one. Fiber optics are only from the HU to amp in trunk. Then from the amp in trunk they use regular speaker wire to run to all the speakers. I took the wires from the amp and figured which ones go to which speaker by using a radio and connecting each one until I documented all of the speakers. I ran 3 pairs of aux cables from head unit to truck. 2 pairs for speakers 1port for sub and 1 port for back up cam. Connected them to a 4 channel aftermarket amp. Connected wires and good to go. It was really simple. Everything I read made it so much more difficult. So now I have touch screen, gps, blue tooth, and all the other features that I longed for.
This POS car of mine has been sitting mostly in garage for the last 2 years , but I got a nice round number today Will take a while until @ 400k
(picture with 390 000km)
Latest reading @ 397 000km and I have decided to wreck this car, I can not take it anymore, It is falling apart. AC Compressor decided to destroy itself + the belt when I was 800km from home with my pet onboard. Below the fault list during the last 67k km / 41k miles if anybody is interested.
Maybe I buy a KIA with 7-year warranty. Newer W205's with 1-year left in warranty start at around €40k even used
-Heater core evaporator change
-Sway bars and lower control arms were shot
-Air flowmeter gave up
-Inlet manifold failed
-Injector failed, €500/piece
-Thermostat failure
-Two stepper motors / links failed
-Both catalytic converters clogged, car was not driveable
-Yet another stepper motor link failure
-AC stopped working when idling
-Sway bars and lower control arms were shot AGAIN after 10k
-Heater booster failed
-Injector seals started leaking again
-Transmission gear shift module failed when I was halfway of 500mile trip back home
-Oil separator failed and leaks
-Thermostat failure again
-Trunk jammed and can not be opened
-Hand/footbrake rusted away (car did not pass the yearly inspection, had to change all the pads + brake disks too)
-Core evaporator temperature sensor failed
-Control arm bushings 3rd time
-Injector failure, running on 3 cylinders, €500/piece
-AC Compressor failure + belt gone
310099, in the shop getting thrust srtut bushing replaced. (damn Louisiana roads )
Heck yeah, @polarbexar!! You give all of us W203 M271 owners hope for long lasting life!
Real quick, I'm about to change out all front four control arm bushings and next the strut bearings. My question to you is over your 300k miles, have you only replaced the bushings or the entire control arms? I know the bushings are a weak point on these cars, but I don't want just replace the bushings if the ball-joints of the arms go out as well. Your thoughts?
Thanks!
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 08-08-2016 at 11:15 AM.
.... I don't want just replace the bushings if the ball-joints of the arms go out as well.....
It's the silicone filled bushings that fail. The first time I had it done under warranty they replaced the whole assembly. I assume it was easier/quicker. When I did it myself I replaced just the bushings. You can do it in situ without removing the ball socket or upsetting the alignment (I checked). Just make sure the camber bolts are positioned the same on reinstall. If you're going to remove the assembly to press out/in the bushings I would just replace the whole assembly.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort (What the heck, it gets 38 mpg!)
I just replaced the MAF to pass smog. Cat been replaced 3 times now.
But sway bars? How do those fail? Rust? I mean, it's a metal bar....
I imagine most of my suspension is shot....but the car, she goes, so I drive. That being said, I inherited my dad's POS 1999 Ford Escort, and it's becoming a regular thing...as in my driving it, because of problems with the benz at 233K miles, about the same as you. Well, you're at 246.6K miles.
Oh please I hope the AC doesn't fail. Glad you reminded me, I have a new thermostat around somewhere....need to install it before it fails.
Knock on wood, no issues with the injectors, but the fuel pump gave up not too long ago (fortunately within walking distance of home and in a safe place after a 50 mile drive in places that would be really bad to break down, no civilization closely, Lucky me~!) ,and the water pump too, and as you said the shift module, got a whole thread on that. I waited patiently and got one from the pick and pull for a mere $30 but it took 2 times to get the right one....yes, driving the Escort for like a month or 2 while I waited. Funny how it's actually (gasp) reliable.
The only problems I've had with it, the AC wouldn't work, found a fix on the web (cold solder joint) but not until after I wasted (or maybe not?)
150 on a recharge...but now it blows colder than a witches ttt in the Klondike as they say. And a little plastic piece under the dash, that prevented it from starting since it didn't think I was pressing the clutch when starting. Price? $3. Oh and 2 oil changes since I got it, $20-$30 each time...5w-30 conventional oil.
Just turned over 100K miles. It's probably worth $700....I mean for the whole car not the shift module on the Mercedes. I know you know what I mean. So, not looking forward to AC problems and injectors.....arrgh.
No way am I driving a KIA though....but damn, I wouldn't mind a Chrysler 300 or
Challenger. The 6 cyl goes like a bat out of hell (you don't even need the 8)
and gets 30 mpg. There's something to be said for not having a car payment also.
Originally Posted by cvx
Latest reading @ 397 000km and I have decided to wreck this car, I can not take it anymore, It is falling apart. AC Compressor decided to destroy itself + the belt when I was 800km from home with my pet onboard. Below the fault list during the last 67k km / 41k miles if anybody is interested.
Maybe I buy a KIA with 7-year warranty. Newer W205's with 1-year left in warranty start at around €40k even used
-Heater core evaporator change
-Sway bars and lower control arms were shot
-Air flowmeter gave up
-Inlet manifold failed
-Injector failed, €500/piece
-Thermostat failure
-Two stepper motors / links failed
-Both catalytic converters clogged, car was not driveable
-Yet another stepper motor link failure
-AC stopped working when idling
-Sway bars and lower control arms were shot AGAIN after 10k
-Heater booster failed
-Injector seals started leaking again
-Transmission gear shift module failed when I was halfway of 500mile trip back home
-Oil separator failed and leaks
-Thermostat failure again
-Trunk jammed and can not be opened
-Hand/footbrake rusted away (car did not pass the yearly inspection, had to change all the pads + brake disks too)
-Core evaporator temperature sensor failed
-Control arm bushings 3rd time
-Injector failure, running on 3 cylinders, €500/piece
-AC Compressor failure + belt gone
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 08-10-2016 at 02:20 PM.
I know the bushings are a weak point on these cars, but I don't want just replace the bushings if the ball-joints of the arms go out as well. Your thoughts?
I believe I'm still on the original control arms at 154k (bushings have been replaced twice AFAIR), so unless you feel/hear something suspicious should be good for the next 30k (that's what the general opinion is of the bushing life anyway).
It's the silicone filled bushings that fail. The first time I had it done under warranty they replaced the whole assembly. I assume it was easier/quicker. When I did it myself I replaced just the bushings. You can do it in situ without removing the ball socket or upsetting the alignment (I checked). Just make sure the camber bolts are positioned the same on reinstall. If you're going to remove the assembly to press out/in the bushings I would just replace the whole assembly.
Hey mleskovar,
so those camber bolts - are there just three positions for them or can they also be turned for fine tuning? I thought it's just the three settings, but some smart mechanic at a no-name alignment shop had told me once that there are more adjustments with those bolts
04 Kompressor 6-sp manual at 154k now, average 32 mpg.
replaced downstream OX sensor, and MAC sensor 10 months back - a painful job (9 hours) for a simple part, which prompted me to reengineer the way it was mounted to the airbox so next time it takes just an hour. replaced passenger side outer tie rod - not a big deal. just rebuilt the starter with new brushes two weeks back. The rest are all fine.
jesus everyone here has such low mileage compared to me lol, i have my c230 2004 with 86k miles luckily i have until 100k with carmax for my warranty but @mleskovar i know what you mean i've had little problems here and there which are quite annoying.
Hey Norsk, I replaced my struts at about 160K with Bilstien touring. the strut bearing was replaced then. The torque strut bushings I just had done are the ones that usually fail ( the ones closest to the front bumper). The wear was slow and til I started driving to Shreveport, it felt like I was running over speed bumps on the interstate. The front wheels were moving all over the place too. So after those two bushing were replaced and a four wheel alignment, it feels like a new car. Those same bumps are absorbed nicely and the car tracks straight. I was worried about the strut bearings too but the dealer looked at them and told me I didn't need to. Everything else with the exception of the swaybar links, are still great, those wear out too quickly. Sorry about the late reply work gets crazy at times...
Last edited by polarbexar; 08-10-2016 at 10:40 PM.
Reason: typos
I'm the second owner of this 2005 C230. Recently had a worn out rear driver side bearing and my check engine light comes on sometimes for the catalytic converter but then goes away on it's own. I can't complain about it though. It still drives pretty smooth and I still like the way it looks.
02-07-2016, 08:59 PM
290XXX miles!
