Your info is incorrect-

As for you being the first person to have the idea of an FP you think too much of your sleuthing abilities- that "fix" has been around since 1998.

Im sure all the tuners of the wolrd will rest easier knowing that youve moved on- please.

 

I am not say that i was the first one to find out about the fuel regulator but since you are a tuner, should you have known about the fuel regulator to included in your pre-2000 pulley kit? That's my point i am try to make. Then why do you wait for me to told you about it !!! Btw, did you really test/tune your products? If you do, should you have known about needing more fuel when install your pulley kit?

I see that you care about me alot ...lol....lo. Well, don't be too happy yet because i still have the Clk 430 and i just might sign-in and check on you...lol. I hope that you don't take this personally. I'm just having fun with you. You are a good guy.

 

Check paragraph 15. They suggest changing your fuel settings!!!
Installation Instructions
Tuning-Kit
MB SLK/CLK 230 Kompressor

The Kit consists of the following parts:

1 bigger pulley
1 longer drive belt
1 pulley cover
1 air intake pipe
1 fuel pressure-control valve


The installation takes approximately 4-5 hours.

Information:
For the installation, you need a lifting platform, an engine jack as well as some smaller special tools.
When working with the Kompressor and the pipes, you especially have to take care of cleanliness; no dirt may get into the air intake area.
When working with fuel, please consider the appropriate security-guidelines.


1. Vehicle-Check (former damages, noises) with test-drive. Quick check of all functions of the car.
If there is something wrong, please inform your customer.
2. Move the vehicle onto the lifting platform, remove the cable from the negative pole of the battery.
3. Deinstall Cooler using the manual. (Attention: Left-hand threads)
4. Remove shroud using the manual.
5. Remove engine compartment cover at the bottom.
6. Deinstall right engine mounting using the manual.
7. Remove the serial intake at the Kompressor and install the modified intake.
8. Reinstall the right engine mounting using the manual, consider Torque data
9. Remove the belt from the Kompressor using the manual, install the modified pulley at the
crankshaft and install the longer belt.


Important information for installing the pulley

· The serial pulley has to be absolutely clean, please remove any kind of dirt
· The new pulley must have enough distance to all sides
· Insert screws with screw locking mass extra tight
· Putting the screws in should happen gradually over cross to ensure an exact cycling and to avoid spannings
· First tighten the axial and then the radial screws


10. Install cooler and shroud using the manual, consider Torque data
11. Install engine compartment cover at the bottom
12. Deinstall Air measure device and air-intake pipe

Remove air measure device from the serial box and install it into the GFK-pipe. There is possibly some easy subsequent work to do. Consider the installation-direction (arrow into the direction of the flow). Lock the flange at the serial box with a closed cover (self-production).
After that, install the new Air Intake Pipe with the air measure device.
Important information for installing the air measure device:

· The pipe must be installed without any spanning
· The pipe must have enough distance to all directions and may not scrub by relative motions of the engine
· Hoses and hose flanges must be grease-free (can be cleaned with spiritus)
· If possible, exchange all hose clamps of the air-intake system with clamps inclusive steel springs (You can get these from Mercedes-Benz)
· Sometimes, you must install the upper hose at the bottom, as well as replace the upper hose with an even one. The used hose must be oil-, pressure and temperature-resistant.
· Should the plug of the air measure unit have too few free place at the steering-support-pump, remove the cable run from the plug


13. Attach the battery, reprogram clock, radio-code etc.
14. Deinstall the membrane pressure controller using the manual and replace it with the provided one.
15. Set the mixture correction to level plus 3 and the fuel-quality to 98 using the MB-HHT or Star-Dignosis
16. Check-run (test if air intake pipes and fuel-pressure-controller are close, check rotation of the belt drive, check again for abraded positions and if all screws are tight.
17. Test drive, final check
Check paragraph 15. They suggest changing your fuel settings!!! Check paragraph 15. They suggest changing your fuel settings!!!

 

I read these instructions a year ago and they scared me then and scare me now. From the instructions it sounds like they ar selling you a ring like Kleemann that you bolt on and not a whole pulley. You may want to ask that if you are interested. Also you may want to get details on the fuel pump regulator installation since it doesn't say how to install it, I think it's in the gas tank.

 

Those instuctions are for older SLK's. Notice it talks about moving the mass airflow sensor. Item 15 also says to change the ignition timing setting for 98 RON gasoline. Most of the US does not have access to 98 RON gas.

 

Just as a general note to everyone: You may want to use this big, bad internet and do some research on "modern" engines. A 16V Hemi-head engine with a pentproof combustion chamber can run with far leaner mixtures than the old days (add dual plugs and you can really push). It will run this way forever- never having any mechanical failures.

You can pretty much throw away all you think you know about A/F ratios from the small block Chevy school of thought.

 

All these discussions about HP loss, fuel settings & AF ratio are just amazing to me. If more power is that important to you guys, why the hell did you buy a car with such a small engine?

 

KWIK, you are missing the point here.

 

Maybe, but I don't think so. You want all the rewards the pulley kits offer but none of the risk. So if you would have purchased a car with the power you desire, then this topic wouldn't exist.

 

Brandon, I realize it's normal for modern engines to run as lean as 20:1 in some cases like when coasting. The issue that Linh and I had from the very begining is that we did before/after dynos with a/f ratio and our frame of mind is that we should maintain the a/f ratio to as close as possible to the original results. In my car that can be as rich as 11.5:1 at full throttle. Even Stage 3 resulted in a leaner 12.5:1. At base that was 13.5:1 (at it's richest point). I believe a large portion of my HP loss was the Octane settings. I think those should be left at base. The question now is Stage 1 or 2 better for performance vs. a/f ratio?

KWiK, I originally wanted a Subie WRX, smaller engine than the Coupe yet 0-60 times in the 5 1/2 second range. I compromised in what I wanted for the free car washes, cookies, loaner cars, a dealer 1 mile from my house and 4 years maintenance. I'm just trying to get as close as possible to the WRX without braking the bank. If I'm lucky, I'll get 6 1/2 second 0-60, not bad for a 2wd european car that cost me 25k. I'm not sorry with my decision to get the car or the mods I've already put on but I'm trying to work out some issues for my benefit as well as all coupe owners that want a little more fun in their lives.

 

KWICK, you don’t understand the passion some people have to upgrade their car to make it better and faster. It’s not just about more power and bigger engines.

 

Kwick,

You are still missing the point. You are one of those people just buy the car to drive and that pretty much it. Why do you think there are people that owned Slk 32, used to considered the fastest factory Mercedes that you can buy beside the CLK-GT-R and they still upgrade to Renntech pulley to get more power. Kwick, how do you explain that? I find it no use trying to explain to you why some people do what we do to our cars because you just don't have it in you.

 

Yes Kleemann, you are right about this. But if you look under the hood, just count to see how many of electric wires is there under the hood. Properly about ten wires hanging. What does that tell you about the advance in today engine design VS the old day. The old day, if you want more power, just make the engine bigger and today, it all in ECU (mostly).

 

You guys are right, I am missing the point...I don't understand buying a car you think needs more HP, then gripe about the cost/quality/warranty/etc. when you start adding aftermarket "upgrades" when you could have just purchased a car with the performance/power you are now trying to achieve.

To me, that is like trying to reach a very tall ledge by buying a short ladder then placing the ladder on some boxes instead of just buying a taller ladder.

 

Not quite so... I would have bought a C Coupe with a 230HP engine if such option existed (=longer ladder). I would have ordered it with a stiffer suspension (alas...). You might say: should have gotten a C320 or C32 - but I wanted THE COUPE, I didn't want a 4-door sedan.

 

I think what KWiK is getting at is that one could purchase a totally different car and be completely satisfied. The problem is, it may not be affordable, diserable, or even as practical, as the car that you may wish to mod.

 

If there were a 230HP C Coupe, you would get a pulley that pushes 300HP or so. The point is that some people always want their cars to be better than the stock settings.

 

you get it. finally.

 

Yeah - if the 230hp was from a supercharged powerplant. Not the case if it was the 3.2L V6, but then again you could bolt on a Kleemann supercharger and eat C32's.