Would 19x8.5 with 3" lip rub in the rear with 05 C230SS?
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2013 E350 Bluetec, 2008 Audi S4 Avant, 2011 VW Golf TDI, 2015 Audi S3, 2020 GLB250
Would 19x8.5 with 3" lip rub in the rear with 05 C230SS?
Thinking of picking up a set of wheels with staggered offset. All 4 wheels are 19x8.5. The rear wheels have an unknown offset that gives the wheels a 3" lip. If I put 235/35/19 on all four corners. Would I rub? I'm on standard sports suspension, with no intent of lowering (wifey doesn't like the ride quality of a lowered car). Thanks.
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2013 E350 Bluetec, 2008 Audi S4 Avant, 2011 VW Golf TDI, 2015 Audi S3, 2020 GLB250
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2005 C55, 1988 260E, 2000 Chevrolet Silverado
Mine dont rub and I run 265 in the rear. with the correct offset you should not have a problem. But the lip has nothing to do with it. Get the offset to make sure. 32 thru 38 should work well. 35 being about perfect. You can trim the little plastic tab to make the fit better. Real easy to do. The fronts are a little harder, 35 works with regular brakes but I used 30 to fit AMG brakes and the barrel measurement has to be correct with AMG brakes to. this is the space from the offset to the back of the spokes or the part were the caliper fits. Or doesn't LOL! I hope this helps, there is a fitment calculator I posted a while back.
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2013 E350 Bluetec, 2008 Audi S4 Avant, 2011 VW Golf TDI, 2015 Audi S3, 2020 GLB250
Here's what I don't really get about wheels and offsets. I know that offset is how far the mounting point is away from the centerline of the wheel. So in effect, there are two ways to move this point: 1) extend or shorten the mounting barrel to achieve desired offset. 2) Move the entire center of the wheel away from the centerline to achieve desired offset.
With #1, I understand that the lip will have nothing to do with the offset, since you're just changing the length of the barrel, and it would help in brake clearance etc. But if the offset is achieved by way of #2, the size of the lip will have everything to do with the offset of the wheels, right?
The wheels I am looking at achieves a 1.5" lip in the front and 3" lip in the rear by changing the offset (both are 8.5" in width), so I would think it's done by method #2, since the size of the lip changes with the offset.
I'm still learning, and this is something I don't quite understand. So, how are offsets usually achieved? Through #1 or #2?
With #1, I understand that the lip will have nothing to do with the offset, since you're just changing the length of the barrel, and it would help in brake clearance etc. But if the offset is achieved by way of #2, the size of the lip will have everything to do with the offset of the wheels, right?
The wheels I am looking at achieves a 1.5" lip in the front and 3" lip in the rear by changing the offset (both are 8.5" in width), so I would think it's done by method #2, since the size of the lip changes with the offset.
I'm still learning, and this is something I don't quite understand. So, how are offsets usually achieved? Through #1 or #2?
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03 c230
mine are 3 pieces.... for some reason i want to say 32 offset and rubbed alot when really low, so i got 255 and rubs a tad if i hit a big bump. My tires sit even with the wheel well now, no more tucking.
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white and whiter
are the rims you are looking to buy from brabuscclass? those iforge's? if so...then no it most likely will not rub.
both 1 and 2 from what you asked can be done to change the offset. 1 can be only used during the forging process. The center hub on the wheel is shaved down to the correct offset and then bolt patterns are drilled. There are usually very little material left in between the hub surface which you cannot shave it down more to + offset. The only thing you can do is by adding spacer to achieve smaller offset.
2 method can be done, but usually the barrels are only available with 0.5 inch increment at a time which is about 10-12mm (my guess without calculating). Precision is lost if you are looking to only add or take few mm from the offset.
with this said...1 and 2 is virtually connected.
both 1 and 2 from what you asked can be done to change the offset. 1 can be only used during the forging process. The center hub on the wheel is shaved down to the correct offset and then bolt patterns are drilled. There are usually very little material left in between the hub surface which you cannot shave it down more to + offset. The only thing you can do is by adding spacer to achieve smaller offset.
2 method can be done, but usually the barrels are only available with 0.5 inch increment at a time which is about 10-12mm (my guess without calculating). Precision is lost if you are looking to only add or take few mm from the offset.
with this said...1 and 2 is virtually connected.
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Yeah, the wheels I'm looking at are iForge's originally owned by brabuscclass. But from my understanding, he was running 225/35/19's on them. I want to run 235/35/19 all around, or even 245/35/19 on the back to give the rims a little more protection and maybe a better ride. Would that be a problem?
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'05 SS Brillant Silver
*Piggybacking thread alert*
Speaking of rub, there was a thread awhile back where someone had a pic of the piece that needed to be shaved in order to keep it from rubbing?? Anyone had a link to that thread, can't seem to find it...or can someone take a pic of that piece again. Thanks.
Speaking of rub, there was a thread awhile back where someone had a pic of the piece that needed to be shaved in order to keep it from rubbing?? Anyone had a link to that thread, can't seem to find it...or can someone take a pic of that piece again. Thanks.
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white and whiter
Yeah, the wheels I'm looking at are iForge's originally owned by brabuscclass. But from my understanding, he was running 225/35/19's on them. I want to run 235/35/19 all around, or even 245/35/19 on the back to give the rims a little more protection and maybe a better ride. Would that be a problem?
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well, picked up the wheels today, and ordered 4 235/35/19 Goodyear F1-GSD3 from Tire Rack. For some reason 245/35/19 costs 80.00 more than 235s. Money talks, so that's how it's going to be. The wheels are at The Wheel Supply for refinishing and should have everything mounted by next weekend. Will post pics when everything is done. Thanks for all your help!
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2004 C32 ///AMG
well, picked up the wheels today, and ordered 4 235/35/19 Goodyear F1-GSD3 from Tire Rack. For some reason 245/35/19 costs 80.00 more than 235s. Money talks, so that's how it's going to be. The wheels are at The Wheel Supply for refinishing and should have everything mounted by next weekend. Will post pics when everything is done. Thanks for all your help!
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C200K W203
You will be fine. I have 18*10 on my rear with 265/35/18 and 2" lowered ET35 the car rubs a little but it works fine now after clearing the inside of the fender to allow more room. A friend of mine got 19*9.5 and 265/35/19 on rear and no need for modification at all, fit just about right. Unless you got 10" wide rims you no need to worry brother.
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Well, these wheels do have pretty aggressive offset to give it such a big lip on such narrow rims (I'm beginning to think they're actually 19" x 8" rather than 19" x 8.5", since BrabusCClass does seem to have a pattern on the rims he gets). So while 10" wide rims with mild offset may not rub, I'm not necessarily convinced that just because the rims I have are narrower, that they won't run either, because they have a more aggressive offset.
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white and whiter
basically the face should have the same offset clearance to the caliper as say the same iforged rims with 19x10 in the rear. The only difference is that while the outer barrel/lip is the same the inner barrel the 19x8 has a 5" inner barrel and the 19x10 has a 7" inner barrel.
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Well, the wheels went on today, and guess what? They rub! Well, kind of. I got the wheels put on, and loaded the stockers in the rear seat, and on the way back, some of the road imperfections, dips, speedbumps, etc., would cause the tires to rub. I was pretty bummed, but after I unloaded the tires, I can go over speedbumps pretty fast without rubbing.
I remember reading somewhere that there are little tabs you need to trim off the rear wheel well to avoid rubbing, and I think it'll solve my problem since it seems like it's only rubbing a little bit. I know, search, I'll give that a try later.
Anyway, there's another problem. These rims are supposedly made for a Mercedes C240, but for some reason, they're not hubcentric. I need to source some hub rings for them, because there are major vibrations when I go above 50 MPH or so. Anyone know where I can get some hub rings? Also, if these are custom made for the vehicle, why didn't iForged just make them fit without having to use hub rings? Given their customer service, I guess I can forget about trying to get some rings from them.
Damn, the wheels looks so nice when they're on, but now I have to take them off because of the rubbing and the vibration.
I remember reading somewhere that there are little tabs you need to trim off the rear wheel well to avoid rubbing, and I think it'll solve my problem since it seems like it's only rubbing a little bit. I know, search, I'll give that a try later.
Anyway, there's another problem. These rims are supposedly made for a Mercedes C240, but for some reason, they're not hubcentric. I need to source some hub rings for them, because there are major vibrations when I go above 50 MPH or so. Anyone know where I can get some hub rings? Also, if these are custom made for the vehicle, why didn't iForged just make them fit without having to use hub rings? Given their customer service, I guess I can forget about trying to get some rings from them.
Damn, the wheels looks so nice when they're on, but now I have to take them off because of the rubbing and the vibration.