C240 Check Engine = No power
#1
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'02 MB C240 6spd / '92 BMW 325i 5spd
C240 Check Engine = No power
This morning I was going around 80mph to work on I75 and my c240 shut off on me. So I pull over to the side (good thing there werent a lot of cars) and restart the car.
When I started accelerating the car had no power like its running on limp mode. I look in my dash and the check engine light came on.
I got home and I used the OBD code reader and I got these 2 errors:
P0101 = Mass or Volume Circuit Range Performance Problem
P0221 = Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
Right now I disconnected the battery and going to leave it about 30 mins to see if the problem fixes. If not does anyone know what caused this problem?
Its a '02 c240 6spd.
When I started accelerating the car had no power like its running on limp mode. I look in my dash and the check engine light came on.
I got home and I used the OBD code reader and I got these 2 errors:
P0101 = Mass or Volume Circuit Range Performance Problem
P0221 = Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
Right now I disconnected the battery and going to leave it about 30 mins to see if the problem fixes. If not does anyone know what caused this problem?
Its a '02 c240 6spd.
#2
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Sounds like your TPS went out. This is real easy to check, with your obd2 scanner, monitor the TPS, step on the gas pedal and it should move, so half way should be 50%, all the way down is 100%, etc. If it's not reading right then that's not good, get a new knew one, put it in, walla.
#3
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'02 MB C240 6spd / '92 BMW 325i 5spd
Sounds like your TPS went out. This is real easy to check, with your obd2 scanner, monitor the TPS, step on the gas pedal and it should move, so half way should be 50%, all the way down is 100%, etc. If it's not reading right then that's not good, get a new knew one, put it in, walla.
I noticed I need to pump the pedal for the car to rev up. So my idea alwell think thats its the TPS.
How much do they cost? Also, where is it located?
#4
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What most call the TPS, MB calls the pedal travel sensor and it's $114 list, probably your dealer sells it for more and Duval Motors sells it for about $85. So decide if cost or time is more important to you. If the dealer doesn't have it and will order it anyway then I would order online, if they had it in stock, I would pay the premium but that's just me. I don't own a C240 so I can't give you specifics but on our SLK230 it's in front of the brake master cylinder. When you have a new one in your hands it will be more obvious which it is.
#5
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'02 MB C240 6spd / '92 BMW 325i 5spd
What most call the TPS, MB calls the pedal travel sensor and it's $114 list, probably your dealer sells it for more and Duval Motors sells it for about $85. So decide if cost or time is more important to you. If the dealer doesn't have it and will order it anyway then I would order online, if they had it in stock, I would pay the premium but that's just me. I don't own a C240 so I can't give you specifics but on our SLK230 it's in front of the brake master cylinder. When you have a new one in your hands it will be more obvious which it is.
Thank you.
#6
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'02 MB C240 6spd / '92 BMW 325i 5spd
Okay. I left the battery disconnected all night. This is what happens when I press my throttle pedal quickly the revs die right down, yet if I press slowly it will build up to high revs ok.
Does that sound like the Throttle Position Sensor (Pedal Travel Sensor)? I want to be sure before I buy and thats not the problem.
I called Duval Motors this morning and they stated that the car does not have a TPS (PTS). They said it could be the Mass AirFlow Sensor that could be bad they quoted me $480.44 (non refundable on electrical parts.)
Any other ideas you guys think?
Does that sound like the Throttle Position Sensor (Pedal Travel Sensor)? I want to be sure before I buy and thats not the problem.
I called Duval Motors this morning and they stated that the car does not have a TPS (PTS). They said it could be the Mass AirFlow Sensor that could be bad they quoted me $480.44 (non refundable on electrical parts.)
Any other ideas you guys think?
Last edited by YoYiTo; 09-23-2006 at 10:05 AM.
#7
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Duval is an MB dealer so you will pay list price and even then they mark it up as the MAF is $420 list on their website and something like $320 to buy, that's why it's best to use their website for discounted prices. So here's what you do to find out what is what. Your car can run fine without a MAF sensor but not fine with a bad one, soooo, disconnect the wire going to the MAF sensor and drive it and see if that fixes the problem. If that's not the problem, you'll need an OBD2 scanner that can not only read codes but read sensors and watch the TPS sensor, it show be from zero to 100% depending on how hard you press the pedal.
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#8
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'02 MB C240 6spd / '92 BMW 325i 5spd
i got the maf 2 days ago and the car works great now. it took about 15mins most to change it.
after changing out the maf the car is more responsive than before.
Buellwinkle i would like to thank you for your help and patients.
after changing out the maf the car is more responsive than before.
Buellwinkle i would like to thank you for your help and patients.
#9
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Your very welcome and good to hear you worked it out without paying crazy service fees. Imagine, a non-mechanic doing the job in 15 minutes yet the dealers charges 1-2 hours labor to do this and that's on top of making at least another $100 on the part.
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'02 MB C240 6spd / '92 BMW 325i 5spd
i was very paranoid if i ever had to take it to the dealer. ive learned alot on repairing cars from my e36 basicly just by experimenting and trying to use common sense.
in the e36 changed water pump, head gasket and other minor things. i know those are minors stuff but something that i have great pride on repairing is changing the throwout bearing, tranny to driveshaft rubber piece and my future project in a couple of weeks will be changing my rear wheel bearing.
i really dont trust mechanics that much even worse dealers.
in the e36 changed water pump, head gasket and other minor things. i know those are minors stuff but something that i have great pride on repairing is changing the throwout bearing, tranny to driveshaft rubber piece and my future project in a couple of weeks will be changing my rear wheel bearing.
i really dont trust mechanics that much even worse dealers.
#11
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I really haven't done too many repairs on my own cars except the show cars I've restored but for what dealers are charging these days, it's insane. The Ford dealer wanted $900 to change pads on my kid's Mustang and rear rotors and they weren't even going to use genuine Ford parts, they were going to put in Motocraft. When I asked for genuine Ford they said $100 more. On the other hand I bring it in for oil changes for $25, not worth getting dirty for $25, for $900, bring on the grease...
#12
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'02 MB C240 6spd / '92 BMW 325i 5spd
I really haven't done too many repairs on my own cars except the show cars I've restored but for what dealers are charging these days, it's insane. The Ford dealer wanted $900 to change pads on my kid's Mustang and rear rotors and they weren't even going to use genuine Ford parts, they were going to put in Motocraft. When I asked for genuine Ford they said $100 more. On the other hand I bring it in for oil changes for $25, not worth getting dirty for $25, for $900, bring on the grease...
#14
2002 C240 Engine Light on
Hi Forum,
I, too just had an "Check Engine" light on a couple of days ago on my 2002 C240. At first the engine would turn, but not started. Few hours later, engine started with light still on. A couple of hours after, light dissapeared (for a day). Then today "Check Engine" appeared again and seem to stay.
Where's the best place to get a codes scanner? How much is that? And how to hook up in the car? Any advice is greatly apprciated.
Thx in advance for anyone's help!
I, too just had an "Check Engine" light on a couple of days ago on my 2002 C240. At first the engine would turn, but not started. Few hours later, engine started with light still on. A couple of hours after, light dissapeared (for a day). Then today "Check Engine" appeared again and seem to stay.
Where's the best place to get a codes scanner? How much is that? And how to hook up in the car? Any advice is greatly apprciated.
Thx in advance for anyone's help!
#15
Senior Member
Hi Forum,
I, too just had an "Check Engine" light on a couple of days ago on my 2002 C240. At first the engine would turn, but not started. Few hours later, engine started with light still on. A couple of hours after, light dissapeared (for a day). Then today "Check Engine" appeared again and seem to stay.
Where's the best place to get a codes scanner? How much is that? And how to hook up in the car? Any advice is greatly apprciated.
Thx in advance for anyone's help!
I, too just had an "Check Engine" light on a couple of days ago on my 2002 C240. At first the engine would turn, but not started. Few hours later, engine started with light still on. A couple of hours after, light dissapeared (for a day). Then today "Check Engine" appeared again and seem to stay.
Where's the best place to get a codes scanner? How much is that? And how to hook up in the car? Any advice is greatly apprciated.
Thx in advance for anyone's help!
#16
Super Moderator
OP - see this re TPS - It's integral with the throttle pedal - understand that dealers in US sell the entire assembly. In SA we can buy just the hall motor sensor etc.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...ccelerator.pdf
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...ccelerator.pdf
#17
Engine Chug PO101 pending
I reset the ECM
Put key in the ignition
Turn once (click 1)
Press pedal all the way to the floor (hitting the quick down)
Hold for 5 sec
Turn the key to off position while holding the pedal all the way down
wait 1-2 sec, Let go of pedal and wait for 2 min for ECU to reset.
DO NOT TAKE OFF THE KEY WHILE WAITING FOR 2 MINUTES
Then drove around the park , I put my foot all the way to the floor about a half a second the RPM and speed increased slowly though it was smooth. I checked for codes and should I had a PO101 pending. After I turned off the key and turned it back on the, the code went away.
Prior to resetting the ECM, the engine would chug when accelerating quickly
Put key in the ignition
Turn once (click 1)
Press pedal all the way to the floor (hitting the quick down)
Hold for 5 sec
Turn the key to off position while holding the pedal all the way down
wait 1-2 sec, Let go of pedal and wait for 2 min for ECU to reset.
DO NOT TAKE OFF THE KEY WHILE WAITING FOR 2 MINUTES
Then drove around the park , I put my foot all the way to the floor about a half a second the RPM and speed increased slowly though it was smooth. I checked for codes and should I had a PO101 pending. After I turned off the key and turned it back on the, the code went away.
Prior to resetting the ECM, the engine would chug when accelerating quickly
#18
Super Moderator
You have done a throttle reset. This aligns the throttle plate with the fly by wire throttle pedal. i.e. full pedal travel = WOT.