How to tell if spark plug needs changing
the above photo chart will still be useful even if you're using platinum or
other space age exotics. if the gap is still within spec, or, you can adjust
to spec, then no need to replace the plug.
Also the longer you leave it in, the more risk you run of having them seize in there. Some of the plugs I took off were hard enough at 93k miles. Some who have changed before that had plugs break on them while trying to remove because they were seized.
Its cheap insurance to keep the engine performing up to par. I'm sure the plugs will run fine at 100k but trying to get them out and replacing them may be a pain
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) Every car manufacturer is extending maintenance intervals with new technology and cars are lasting longer than ever but old habits die slowly.......to each his own.
I got a mirror and could see that some of the ceramic had fallen off and was wedged between the plug and the side wall not allowing a socket to go over it. It took about an hour and a half of fishing it with a coat hanger and moving it just enough to get it out of the way and allow the socket to catch. I crushed what was left in there while unscrewing the plug and paused about every four turns and vacuumed it out. A little nerve racking but everything turned out ok.
I was able to get it done, thanks to the help of the forum members posting. Recommend using a magnetic spark plug socket. It worked like a charm and I don't think I could have done it without one. Also, using the open end wrench to help take the wires off was a good tip.
I ended up putting in the Bosh 2 platinum.
Don't have a better pic of the nightmare.
Last edited by ragu; Dec 15, 2006 at 03:56 PM. Reason: additional info




