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What all work to be done except services on my 82,000 Kms driven E250 2014
Few months back I picked a Merc E250 2014 which was 77,000 Kms now its 82,000 Kms. I am new to Merc, So can anyone help me with what all work should be done on car at this mileage 82,000 kms. Like what all is due at these kilometers? Except the service.
And any special points or things to specially take care of
Thankyou!!
Few months back I picked a Merc E250 2014 which was 77,000 Kms now its 82,000 Kms.
I am new to Merc, So can anyone help me with what all work should be done on car at this mileage 82,000 kms. Like what all is due at these kilometers?
Except the service.
And any special points or things to specially take care of
Thankyou!!
-- You can start replacing ALL the front suspension parts. Don't bother "aligning" loose bushings and bearings.
-- Brakes need regular attention, nothing too extraordinary: disks + pads + springs + Dot4+ silicone slide lube.
Strong calipers springs cause uneven pad wear when caliper is unable to slide over siliconed pins. Buy $10 OE replacements...
DO NOT HAVE to replace all front suspension parts. At 50k miles basically that is a little extreme. My E250 at 100k miles I replaced alot of front suspension and the only thing that actually needed it was the struts and rear shocks. Now a 10yr old car I would be more concerned about hoses and plastic pars and what not and a couple of the other things mentioned above.
DO NOT HAVE to replace all front suspension parts. At 50k miles basically that is a little extreme. My E250 at 100k miles I replaced alot of front suspension and the only thing that actually needed it was the struts and rear shocks. Now a 10yr old car I would be more concerned about hoses and plastic pars and what not and a couple of the other things mentioned above.
What engine ya got in it?
Engine is OM651.924
Actually, I am new to Mercedes. So, I don’t have much idea, can you please elaborate the things and parts that need to be replaced/cleaned/ lubricated in the whole car and which grease or sprays to be used.
Thankyou all!
DO NOT HAVE to replace all front suspension parts. At 50k miles basically that is a little extreme. My E250 at 100k miles I replaced alot of front suspension and the only thing that actually needed it was the struts and rear shocks. Now a 10yr old car I would be more concerned about hoses and plastic pars and what not and a couple of the other things mentioned above.
What engine ya got in it?
I recently had a look at the Sway bar link rod end and found that upper ball joint is kinda worn out and needs replacement.
-- You can start replacing ALL the front suspension parts. Don't bother "aligning" loose bushings and bearings.
-- Brakes need regular attention, nothing too extraordinary: disks + pads + springs + Dot4+ silicone slide lube.
Strong calipers springs cause uneven pad wear when caliper is unable to slide over siliconed pins. Buy $10 OE replacements...
I recently had a look at the Sway bar link rod end and found that upper ball joint is kinda worn out and needs replacement.
These front stab links are designed more sturdy than the rear ones... have you noticed how your car boucing increasingly from side to side ?
-- Change BOTH the rear stab links as well as the front.
This is super easy and cheap.
This will give you a close-up view of your brake pad wear status.
this caliper spring being WAY TOO STRONG causes...
factory pads worn unevenly by non-sliding caliper
The outcome is spongy brakes sensation instead of a good proportional braking force (regardless of good rotor, pads, siliconed slides).
> Calipers Not floating : OUTER vs. INNER pads...
-- See how outer pads are like new and inner pads are down from doing all the work?
-- Both F/R calipers uses a spring that prevents them from braking normally.
-- You can replace new pads and ignore the pad unevenness issue
or you can make this work well better than factory new.
The braking forces need to be balanced on both sides of the rotors by the free floating calipers. Defective factory springs prevent calipers from braking normally well. $10 springs fixes that.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 11, 2024 at 03:43 PM.
These front stab links are designed more sturdy than the rear ones... have you noticed how your car boucing increasingly from side to side ?
-- Change BOTH the rear stab links as well as the front.
This is super easy and cheap.
This will give you a close-up view of your brake pad wear status.
*** pics here***
> Calipers Not floating : OUTER vs. INNER pads...
-- See how outer pads are like new and inner pads are down doing all the work?
-- The F/R calipers uses a spring that prevents them from braking normally.
-- You can replace new pads and ignore the pad unevenness issue
or you can make this work well better than factory new.
The braking forces need to be balanced on both sides of the rotors by the free floating calipers. Defective factory springs prevent calipers from braking normally well. $10 springs fixes that.
Didn’t got these points!
*** pics here***
> Calipers Not floating : OUTER vs. INNER pads...
-- See how outer pads are like new and inner pads are down doing all the work?
-- The F/R calipers uses a spring that prevents them from braking normally.
-- You can replace new pads and ignore the pad unevenness issue
or you can make this work well better than factory new.
The braking forces need to be balanced on both sides of the rotors by the free floating calipers. Defective factory springs prevent calipers from braking normally well. $10 springs fixes that.
When you're working on your own gear you get to solve genuine factory issues that otherwise would be left untouched.
Here it's the caliper spring used to mess up perfectly good rotor/pads. Ouch TRW !!
springs are over bent with multiple angles
section 1 and 2 is the normal working spring.
section 2 and 3 should be bent flat
true for both end of each 4x spring.
Outcome:
calipers are able to slide easily to split forces equally between pads.
Great brakes now!
Oh! Thanks, I’ll have a look at this when I’ll change the link rods. Though, few days back I checked the brake pads which were almost new installed by the previous owner. Anyway, can you help me with one issue and that is when I change the gear from N to D or D to R or from P to D/R there’s a loud creaky noise like it can be heard by standing near the car outside and it only happens when I release the brakes slowly to let the car start moving or while changing gears. One thing is sure it’s related to brakes. I read online some people say it’s normal and even merc says it normal some say it’s abnormal. The pads are branded and new since 1 year installed and rotors were also skimmed year back. The noise never went away. It justs get less (the noise) when the car is driven few miles. But it’s just present while releasing the brakes slowly and changing gears.
Oh! Thanks, I’ll have a look at this when I’ll change the link rods. Though, few days back I checked the brake pads which were almost new installed by the previous owner. Anyway, can you help me with one issue and that is when I change the gear from N to D or D to R or from P to D/R there’s a loud creaky noise like it can be heard by standing near the car outside and it only happens when I release the brakes slowly to let the car start moving or while changing gears. One thing is sure it’s related to brakes. I read online some people say it’s normal and even merc says it normal some say it’s abnormal. The pads are branded and new since 1 year installed and rotors were also skimmed year back. The noise never went away. It justs get less (the noise) when the car is driven few miles. But it’s just present while releasing the brakes slowly and changing gears.
at first I was thinking propeller shaft bearing but you say brakes only...
then I guess these are the pads reversing contact surface between Forward and Reverse direction.
To work the pads need to contact a butting surface that's going to rest the pads to work.
THIS BRINGS ANOTHER BRAKE ISSUE with GENUINE MERCEDES REAR PADS:
The inner pad PISTON SPRING keeps pad from contacting resting surface... equal poor spongy rear brakes (besides caliper spring shown earlier).
piston side inner pad ... contactless (rear driver side)
Silvery outer pad working well
Black inner pad unable to work well
rear passenger side.... also contactless
> What does it mean...
-- the inner pad is torquing the caliper piston sideway with braking forces
-- pad is unable to go contact resting surface on caliper bracket.
-- Poor spongy brakes!
> 5mn Fix:
Simply bias the piston spring forward such that the pad can go contact bracket stop without torquing the piston that's not going to let in any air bubles.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 11, 2024 at 04:46 PM.
at first I was thinking propeller shaft bearing but you say brakes only...
then I guess these are the pads reversing contact surface between Forward and Reverse.
To work the pads need to contact a butting surface that's going to rest the pads to work.
THIS BRINGS ANOTHER ISSUE GENUINE MERCEDES REAR PADS:
The inner pad piston spring keeps pad from contacting resting surface... equal poor spongy rear brakes.
that metallic sound like brakes being applied and released... not so much reverse/forward clunking pads.
there is no traveling motion so not pad rubbing on disks... not propeller with out any motion.
+++ Stab link or Lower Ball Joint are good candidates
ball joints create looseness to get replaced
Very few parts make up our Macpherson set-up. It's pretty basic!
-- To regain a good steering control at 55MPH, replace one part after another or ALL at once.
Your call:
When one part is loose it strains the next one that need to handle more forces than nomal.
Don't bother getting wheel alignments for loose parts.
> DIY PREFERENCE:
The "all at once" combined maintenance is a more effective SHOTGUN STYLE to maintain these cars.
[Gasoline GDI]: 50kMi spark plug + boots (+ coils) + intake seals + air filter + Leaky CPS + pigtails .... do you get the idea of combining DIY jobs?
You save your time not duplicating steps many times over.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 11, 2024 at 06:22 PM.
Be sure and do a good inspection or have a independent do a good inspection.
Ive got the OM651 in mine with 4matic so on mine atleast front end parts are a little different then what Cali showed.
That sway bar link is toast or getting there if its got a cracked boot, those are easy to change. The control arms are pain the first time. It all depends on what ya want to do with it or how you want to approach it I guess.
W212 M276 DELA 30 ; W211 M113k, W126 M117, W126 OM617, W211 OM642 ; R107 M117 X2, Sierra 1500 LZ0
Originally Posted by Quint22
DO NOT HAVE to replace all front suspension parts. At 50k miles basically that is a little extreme. My E250 at 100k miles I replaced alot of front suspension and the only thing that actually needed it was the struts and rear shocks. Now a 10yr old car I would be more concerned about hoses and plastic pars and what not and a couple of the other things mentioned above.
What engine ya got in it?
Yea, seriously? Replace the entire suspension wear parts at 80K?!? My 62K E400 might as well be brand new at this point
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