Tie rods worn out!
11-26-2010, 09:21 PM
#28
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Just had this done on my car a few weeks ago. I had 101,000km, and discovered my front R hub assembly was clunking/shaking as I was doing my brakes. That wheel had been rattling for several months now but I always thought it was an unbalanced wheel instead! 
Kind of wish I had these parts beforehand. Had to pay $180 for parts from the stealer. They wanted $1100 to do this wtf.
So, I had my indie take care of the install for $150, alignment included. No more stealer for me. ><
Kind of wish I had these parts beforehand. Had to pay $180 for parts from the stealer. They wanted $1100 to do this wtf.
So, I had my indie take care of the install for $150, alignment included. No more stealer for me. ><
Last edited by slammer111; 11-26-2010 at 09:31 PM.
12-24-2010, 01:49 AM
#29
Super Moderator
quick question is it recommended to replacing the inner tie rod ends while doing the outers. I figure might as well but don't want to waste money if it is not necessary.
02-04-2011, 01:50 PM
#30
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
^ Nope, the SA said those 2 things are independent. Just because the outers are worn, doesn't mean the inners are. The inners also cost much more to replace (labour), so it's not necessarily a bad thing.
02-04-2011, 05:10 PM
#33
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02-04-2011, 05:32 PM
#35
Super Moderator
no thanks i will get yelled at 
actually it is not that bad but like $100 more then it should be but i know it was done right and not by some stupid *** who has no clue what he is doing. So i guess peace of mind is worth something.
They installed front shocks/springs, Front sway bar/bushings (possibly end links did not ask), Those steering rack bushings, Tie rod ends inner and otters, and the alignment. They are finishing up the torsion bar and bushings then the alignment. Should be done Monday morning.
actually it is not that bad but like $100 more then it should be but i know it was done right and not by some stupid *** who has no clue what he is doing. So i guess peace of mind is worth something.
They installed front shocks/springs, Front sway bar/bushings (possibly end links did not ask), Those steering rack bushings, Tie rod ends inner and otters, and the alignment. They are finishing up the torsion bar and bushings then the alignment. Should be done Monday morning.
Last edited by samaritrey; 02-04-2011 at 05:34 PM.
02-04-2011, 07:34 PM
#37
Super Moderator
02-04-2011, 07:40 PM
#39
Super Moderator
02-05-2011, 02:18 AM
#42
Super Moderator
no thanks i will get yelled at
actually it is not that bad but like $100 more then it should be but i know it was done right and not by some stupid *** who has no clue what he is doing. So i guess peace of mind is worth something.
They installed front shocks/springs, Front sway bar/bushings (possibly end links did not ask), Those steering rack bushings, Tie rod ends inner and otters, and the alignment. They are finishing up the torsion bar and bushings then the alignment. Should be done Monday morning.
actually it is not that bad but like $100 more then it should be but i know it was done right and not by some stupid *** who has no clue what he is doing. So i guess peace of mind is worth something.
They installed front shocks/springs, Front sway bar/bushings (possibly end links did not ask), Those steering rack bushings, Tie rod ends inner and otters, and the alignment. They are finishing up the torsion bar and bushings then the alignment. Should be done Monday morning.
06-29-2011, 08:54 PM
#43
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
just did my left side as I had a clunking sound going over bumps and a crunch sound going up a driveway turing right. Figured it was that as that was the only part that have not been replaced during my ongoing front end warranty repairs. I could also visually see the play as I moved the wheel side to side at the ball joint.
Followed 'Splinter' DIY posted earlier on and everything worked out fine though it took lots of pounding with a 2.5lb mini sledge against the knuckle to release the tapered fitting but finally it dropped out - I was ready to give up after countless blows. If anyone needs to know, the jam nut and the fitting on the tie rod is 21mm, also the new nut for the ball joint is 21mm, the old one is 22mm and a different design - the new nut has 3 crowns on top and is tapered so it is its locking system. My manual says that the nut needs 52ft-lbs. One other point, torquing the left side is harder than the right as it wants to turn in while applying pressure and thus you have no room (get someone to hold the steering wheel), the right side when tightening will turn out against the lock and easily reach its correct setting as it has no place to go.
Make sure you buy the nut with the tie rod as for some strange reason it is not included in the box even though it is a 'one-use nut' and not to be reused. Unfortunately, another trip to the dealership - the parts guy should have been on the ball and included it in my order. For my Canadian friends, the part here is $56 and the nut is $3, US price is $46 (even though our dollar is worth more).
the stiffness in the ball joint between the new one and the old one was huge.
Tools needed
21mm box wrench
adjustable wrench
21mm socket
torque wrench
T30 socket
2 1/2lb mini sledge hammer
can of PB Blaster
and some patience
I have never had a car that has eaten up so many front suspension parts, obviously either a design fault or poor manufacturing, I have 102,000km and other than the right tie rod, everything has been replaced and I don't do any rallycross or go over curbs.
.
Followed 'Splinter' DIY posted earlier on and everything worked out fine though it took lots of pounding with a 2.5lb mini sledge against the knuckle to release the tapered fitting but finally it dropped out - I was ready to give up after countless blows. If anyone needs to know, the jam nut and the fitting on the tie rod is 21mm, also the new nut for the ball joint is 21mm, the old one is 22mm and a different design - the new nut has 3 crowns on top and is tapered so it is its locking system. My manual says that the nut needs 52ft-lbs. One other point, torquing the left side is harder than the right as it wants to turn in while applying pressure and thus you have no room (get someone to hold the steering wheel), the right side when tightening will turn out against the lock and easily reach its correct setting as it has no place to go.
Make sure you buy the nut with the tie rod as for some strange reason it is not included in the box even though it is a 'one-use nut' and not to be reused. Unfortunately, another trip to the dealership - the parts guy should have been on the ball and included it in my order. For my Canadian friends, the part here is $56 and the nut is $3, US price is $46 (even though our dollar is worth more).
the stiffness in the ball joint between the new one and the old one was huge.
Tools needed
21mm box wrench
adjustable wrench
21mm socket
torque wrench
T30 socket
2 1/2lb mini sledge hammer
can of PB Blaster
and some patience
I have never had a car that has eaten up so many front suspension parts, obviously either a design fault or poor manufacturing, I have 102,000km and other than the right tie rod, everything has been replaced and I don't do any rallycross or go over curbs.
.
Last edited by Boom vang; 06-29-2011 at 09:03 PM.
06-29-2011, 09:23 PM
#44
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Im going to be doing the inner and outer tie-rod ends, and the front right lower control arm hopefully this weekend.
Waiting for the parts to arrive.
Boom_vang...Im in Toronto as well...I might ping you if I have any questions.
Waiting for the parts to arrive.
Boom_vang...Im in Toronto as well...I might ping you if I have any questions.
06-30-2011, 01:30 PM
#45
Inners are easy to do,especially with the right tool. Only you have the outer off, the inner is super easy to do, only the boot takes a bit of effort to get on properly.
07-01-2011, 01:34 PM
#46
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
it is the outers that take all the abuse and get worn, usually the inners are fine. My Haynes manual does not even mention the procedure for the inners and they usually skip procedures that are out of the realm of the DIYer or that require proprietary tools .
( I also have the Star DVD in case some slams me for using a Haynes. )
( I also have the Star DVD in case some slams me for using a Haynes. )
10-15-2011, 07:17 PM
#47
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
just did my left side as I had a clunking sound going over bumps and a crunch sound going up a driveway turing right. Figured it was that as that was the only part that have not been replaced during my ongoing front end warranty repairs. I could also visually see the play as I moved the wheel side to side at the ball joint.
Followed 'Splinter' DIY posted earlier on and everything worked out fine though it took lots of pounding with a 2.5lb mini sledge against the knuckle to release the tapered fitting but finally it dropped out - I was ready to give up after countless blows. If anyone needs to know, the jam nut and the fitting on the tie rod is 21mm, also the new nut for the ball joint is 21mm, the old one is 22mm and a different design - the new nut has 3 crowns on top and is tapered so it is its locking system. My manual says that the nut needs 52ft-lbs. One other point, torquing the left side is harder than the right as it wants to turn in while applying pressure and thus you have no room (get someone to hold the steering wheel), the right side when tightening will turn out against the lock and easily reach its correct setting as it has no place to go.
Make sure you buy the nut with the tie rod as for some strange reason it is not included in the box even though it is a 'one-use nut' and not to be reused. Unfortunately, another trip to the dealership - the parts guy should have been on the ball and included it in my order. For my Canadian friends, the part here is $56 and the nut is $3, US price is $46 (even though our dollar is worth more).
the stiffness in the ball joint between the new one and the old one was huge.
Tools needed
21mm box wrench
adjustable wrench
21mm socket
torque wrench
T30 socket
2 1/2lb mini sledge hammer
can of PB Blaster
and some patience
I have never had a car that has eaten up so many front suspension parts, obviously either a design fault or poor manufacturing, I have 102,000km and other than the right tie rod, everything has been replaced and I don't do any rallycross or go over curbs.
.
Followed 'Splinter' DIY posted earlier on and everything worked out fine though it took lots of pounding with a 2.5lb mini sledge against the knuckle to release the tapered fitting but finally it dropped out - I was ready to give up after countless blows. If anyone needs to know, the jam nut and the fitting on the tie rod is 21mm, also the new nut for the ball joint is 21mm, the old one is 22mm and a different design - the new nut has 3 crowns on top and is tapered so it is its locking system. My manual says that the nut needs 52ft-lbs. One other point, torquing the left side is harder than the right as it wants to turn in while applying pressure and thus you have no room (get someone to hold the steering wheel), the right side when tightening will turn out against the lock and easily reach its correct setting as it has no place to go.
Make sure you buy the nut with the tie rod as for some strange reason it is not included in the box even though it is a 'one-use nut' and not to be reused. Unfortunately, another trip to the dealership - the parts guy should have been on the ball and included it in my order. For my Canadian friends, the part here is $56 and the nut is $3, US price is $46 (even though our dollar is worth more).
the stiffness in the ball joint between the new one and the old one was huge.
Tools needed
21mm box wrench
adjustable wrench
21mm socket
torque wrench
T30 socket
2 1/2lb mini sledge hammer
can of PB Blaster
and some patience
I have never had a car that has eaten up so many front suspension parts, obviously either a design fault or poor manufacturing, I have 102,000km and other than the right tie rod, everything has been replaced and I don't do any rallycross or go over curbs.
.
4000km later I have had to do the right side. The car is much quieter going over bumpy roads with uneven surface and the cars steering seems much sharper. Hitting the steering knuckle with a BFH did not want to release the tapered fitting, several blows on the top of the ball joint with the nut taken off seemed to do the trick though it did make a mess of the top of the threaded area but does not matter as you are replacing anyways
02-27-2016, 03:39 PM
#49
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just got done changing my inner and outer tie rod. For the inner tie rod you will need an Inner Tie Rod Removal tool. For the ball joints being stuck this is common. You can use a Ball Join Fork and hammer away. I recommend PB Blaster. Helps big time.
Last edited by W203E35; 02-28-2016 at 02:15 AM.
