How to change springs
#1
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2003 c230k sport 4 door
How to change springs
I searched and searched but can't seem to find my answer.Simple question.
How do I change the springs on my C230K SS. Can I rent that "special tool" at Autozone? What exactly is it called.Any sites with pictures to show the install? I searched around here for shops that can install it noone wants to do it or have time.So I rather do it myself and save money.Thanks
I might do a DIY thread on spring installation.
edit: Do I really need that special tool for my 2003 or does that apply to newer cars?
How do I change the springs on my C230K SS. Can I rent that "special tool" at Autozone? What exactly is it called.Any sites with pictures to show the install? I searched around here for shops that can install it noone wants to do it or have time.So I rather do it myself and save money.Thanks
I might do a DIY thread on spring installation.
edit: Do I really need that special tool for my 2003 or does that apply to newer cars?
Last edited by PsiTERROR; 04-04-2007 at 03:39 PM.
#2
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Rear springs are simple, and need no special tool.
The front doesn't really need the tool, but you need a particular type of strut compressor (the threaded rod with 2 hooks won't work).
The front doesn't really need the tool, but you need a particular type of strut compressor (the threaded rod with 2 hooks won't work).
#6
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2001 c240, 65 MG Midget...5.0L V8
ok i just did this the hard way..i had to design my own spring compressor to get the springs down all the way( the generic spring compressors wont do the job) to take the retaining nuy off, but afterwards i realized i didn't need to do all that, you just need a special mercedes socket that has two tabs on its end to remove the retaining nut. sorry i don't have pics but i'll try to explain it as best i can:
front:
1) lift the car up and support it
2) place a jack under the lower ball joint and compress the suspension
3) under the hood remove the 21" strut nut
4) use the mercedes socket to take off the retaining nut ( Make sure the suspension is compressed otehrwise the spring will go flying)
5) slowly lower the kjack to take the tension off the spring (it goes a long way)
6) after all the tension is off the spring unbolt the strut assemblyand take it out of the car, be careful all the brake sensors are tied to it
7) remove the spring and put the new one on (note how it goes back together , there are pockets for the rubber hat and spring to sit a certain way) put the rubber hat in its place at the top of the strut tower, it should stay in there till you put the spring on
8) line up the strut in it place and bolt on the bolts
9) slowly lift up the jack to compress the spring in the car, while guiding the strut rod through the hole in the rubber hat and through the strut tower under the hood
10) use the mercedes tool to put the retaining nut back on
11) tighten the 21mm nut, tighten all your bolts and your done
back:
1) support the bottom control arm with a jack
2) take off the 18mm bolt fastening the control arm to the chassis
3) slowley lower the jack
4) pop the spring out
5) put the new spring in
6) raise the jack to line up the bolt hole
7) out bolt back in place and tighten
i don't have a part number for the reatiner nut socker cause i'm at work but i'll post it when i get home
P.S sorry for all the typos but there is no way in hell i'm gonna edit all that
front:
1) lift the car up and support it
2) place a jack under the lower ball joint and compress the suspension
3) under the hood remove the 21" strut nut
4) use the mercedes socket to take off the retaining nut ( Make sure the suspension is compressed otehrwise the spring will go flying)
5) slowly lower the kjack to take the tension off the spring (it goes a long way)
6) after all the tension is off the spring unbolt the strut assemblyand take it out of the car, be careful all the brake sensors are tied to it
7) remove the spring and put the new one on (note how it goes back together , there are pockets for the rubber hat and spring to sit a certain way) put the rubber hat in its place at the top of the strut tower, it should stay in there till you put the spring on
8) line up the strut in it place and bolt on the bolts
9) slowly lift up the jack to compress the spring in the car, while guiding the strut rod through the hole in the rubber hat and through the strut tower under the hood
10) use the mercedes tool to put the retaining nut back on
11) tighten the 21mm nut, tighten all your bolts and your done
back:
1) support the bottom control arm with a jack
2) take off the 18mm bolt fastening the control arm to the chassis
3) slowley lower the jack
4) pop the spring out
5) put the new spring in
6) raise the jack to line up the bolt hole
7) out bolt back in place and tighten
i don't have a part number for the reatiner nut socker cause i'm at work but i'll post it when i get home
P.S sorry for all the typos but there is no way in hell i'm gonna edit all that
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by alymo; 04-04-2007 at 08:01 PM.
#7
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2004 C32 ///AMG
![](http://kwiktoolfund.club203.com/images/mb_toothed_socket_w.jpg)
This socket is a Mercedes-Benz special service tool (W203 589 00 07 00). It is used to tighten the spring hat retaining nut on the front struts of the Mercedes-Benz C-class (W203) chassis.
Price: $38
Price: $38
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#15
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2001 c240, 65 MG Midget...5.0L V8
cause you need to compress the springs quite a bit to get that nut off not just compress them to keep them form springing back in your face, anyway in order to do that you need to compress the top and bottom spring caps rather then just hanging the compressor on a couple of coils and compressing these...this way every single coil is compressedas much as its possible
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2003 c230k sport 4 door
done! fronts were a *****! I have some pics to show them how I did it.I will upload them later. No special tool required.Only autozone cheap spring compressor..
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2002 C230 Coupe
Bob
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2001 c240, 65 MG Midget...5.0L V8
I have to admit that I found it easier to remove the plastic shield on the control arms, then remove the lower shock mount, then the lower bolt retaining the spindle. (I used a floor jack under the control arm to hold the spring in place, then slowly lowered it to remove the spring and the pad.) The first time, it's a bit of a struggle, but after going through it once, the other side becomes much easier and the job is faster. I didn't bother to do the fronts - I paid someone else to do the job. (I only did the rears to change out the spring pad to the tallest #4 pad.)
Bob
Bob
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
i used near identical technique with W210. but the rears were trickier than the
front....which only needed the sway bar end loosened and lower control arm
lowered an inch or so. yeah, a great learning opportunity, to say the least.
front....which only needed the sway bar end loosened and lower control arm
lowered an inch or so. yeah, a great learning opportunity, to say the least.
![Wink](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
wonderful instructions but one thing... what did you do with the brake line held on to the strut? I need to remove it so I can take it out of that loopy thing but the fluid is going to be spraying everywhere, what did you use to stop that?
#23
Super Moderator
There is no need to disconnect the brake hydraulic hoses when replacing the struts.
The hose is secured to the strut with a plastic “E” mount. It’s held in place with a nifty MB zip-tie. The procedure will be readily apparent upon removing the wheel. Cut the tie and pull the brake hose (and pad wear/wheel speed sensor cables) mounting bracket free of the strut. Have two similarly sized replacements readily available and you’re good to go without having to breach the critical hydraulic system.
The hose is secured to the strut with a plastic “E” mount. It’s held in place with a nifty MB zip-tie. The procedure will be readily apparent upon removing the wheel. Cut the tie and pull the brake hose (and pad wear/wheel speed sensor cables) mounting bracket free of the strut. Have two similarly sized replacements readily available and you’re good to go without having to breach the critical hydraulic system.
#24
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Eh, I helped a friend do this for a friend over the summer. I totally forgot to take pix.
*By help, I mean I just told him what to do and made sure no one got hurt*
If anyone is doing this in the Seattle area and needs a hand, I'll come by and help + offer advice + take pix + DIY it.
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
*By help, I mean I just told him what to do and made sure no one got hurt*
If anyone is doing this in the Seattle area and needs a hand, I'll come by and help + offer advice + take pix + DIY it.
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2001 c320 - 2002 ml55 - 2011 c300 - 2014 slk350 - 2015 cla45
i found it easier just watching.... i paid 360ish watching it get done... the rears were done in no time and looked very simple to install compared to the fronts. i think i could have done them if i had all the proper tools and equipment. BUT the fronts on the other hand took the installers FOOOOORR EVVVER!!!
enjoy your lowered ride..
-carino