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2005 C230 SS Harmon Kardon System - Break It Down

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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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2005 C230 SS
2005 C230 SS Harmon Kardon System - Break It Down

Let me start off by stating for the record, I have searched, and I have searched, and I have searched, and there really isn't a whole lot of info on this "premium" stock system, besides complaints or confusing it with the previous Bose system. I recently purchased a used 2005 C230 SS. It has the Harmon Kardon system, and I'm having the hardest time figuring out what exactly this consists of. For instance, I have read a lot of threads bemoaning the fiber optic connections and odd impedence or ohm levels with the Bose "premium" sound system. Some threads seem to lump Harmon Kardon in with the bose, some don't.

My first question is does the Harmon Kardon system use fiber optic connections like the Bose?

Are the any impedance issues with the speakers?

Finally, does the 2005 system put out 320 watts like the 2007 system?

I'm asking these questions because although the system is decent, it lacks both the clarity and punch I would like, and I want to know what I would be getting into if I upgraded certain components. Thanks.

Last edited by The Hammer; Apr 23, 2007 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 01:10 AM
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Excellent question. I was thinking about upgrading my system as well. I dont know the technical aspects about audio, ohms, loads, etc. But I'm able to do my own installations. On my previous vehicles, simple upgrading the CD deck produced a much brighter sounds because it gave a higher wattage output and more control over the EQ. From what I've heard, the HK system has a built in amp. Im not sure how this affects any upgrades to the system. Im guessing the connection is also proprietary?
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:06 AM
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So no one knows?
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 12:20 PM
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Bump... I would like to know as well. I recently purchased a 2005 230k with H/K and it needs just a little more.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:38 PM
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After 125 views and no responses, I went on an obsessive internet search and finally stumbled onto this.

http://www.ragtop.org/mbbrochures/2005/csportclass.pdf

Oh snap! Had most of the info I was looking for. So it appears, we have a 320 watt "7.1" channel amp and fiber optic connections between headunit, cd changer, and amp.

So now my questions are:

1. What the hell are the benefits of a 7.1 channel amp without being able to play dvd's, cd's dont use 5.1 let alone 7.1.

2. Can we still get a new head unit to connect to the amp, or does getting a new head unit mean forget about using the amp (I suspect a better headunit would clean up the sound a lot, however I don't want to lose the 320 watt amp)?

3. If I simply add a powered sub by tapping into the stock sub speaker wire, will the stock sub still play?
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Old May 1, 2007 | 12:50 AM
  #6  
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'15 C400, 03' C240, '79 240D
hey i bought an 03 c240 this year and i keep finding speakers - so far my count is up to 9 i think. What kinda system do i have? its not bose i think cuz it doesnt say BOSE anywhere so...
i checked out that link at the top and some of the 05s came with a 12speaker system plus sub. Any ideas? Thanks. Car sounds good though :thumbs:
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Old May 1, 2007 | 02:09 AM
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The HK system uses MOST (Media Oriented System Transport) fiber optics to operate the CD changer, the main amp, the sub amp, the optional Sirius receiver, the optional tele-aid, and the optional telephone from the head unit in the dash. Not only is audio sent to the components on the fiber optic cables. Control signals are also sent optically to the various elements. The Bose system on board through 2004 used fiber optics too. They are called D2B, and are not compatable with MOST.

There are two tweeters in triangle grills on the front doors. There is a speaker in each door that has two voice coils for mid-range and bass sound. There are dual coils on the subwoofer as well. That makes a total of 12 speakers, but they are contained in 7 packages.

Cars with tele-aid have a separate speaker behind the right kick panel. It only works with tele-aid.

The main amp has a microphone input that adjusts the sound volume when ambient noise changes. The mic is located toward the front above the headliner on the passenger side.

The 320 watt claim is as optimistic as the EPA mileage figures. The amp is probably closer to 36 watts RMS.

Unlike the Bose speakers that used odd impedance voice coils the HK units can be changed to after market speakers. There is little out there that is better, but sound is a subjective science so you might find a speaker that sounds better to you. Changing the speakers will most likely change the engineered response built into the factory system, so you might not like the result.

If you need a bit more thump for the rump a HK BasslinkII in the trunk is an excellent choice. It can be adjusted, and will take its input from the rear door speakers. It is not a good idea to take the input from the sub wires because that sound might miss the response of the BasslinkII 10 in sub.

You can through the head unit adjust the amp. It will remember settings for CD, Radio, and Aux input independently of each other. You can also set it to "surround" mode to take advantage of the 7.1 feature. There is no actual center channel, but it is created by software in the DSP (digital signal processor.)

Changing the head unit will not "clean" anything. The tuner is top of the line, and the quality from the CD player is a function of the CD's. You can adjust the bass and trebel controls for each sound source to find what sounds best to your ear.

You would lose the amp if you changed the head unit. You would need an additional amp to just equal what you have now.

Last edited by Moviela; May 1, 2007 at 02:11 AM.
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Old May 1, 2007 | 05:44 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Moviela
The HK system uses MOST (Media Oriented System Transport) fiber optics to operate the CD changer, the main amp, the sub amp, the optional Sirius receiver, the optional tele-aid, and the optional telephone from the head unit in the dash. Not only is audio sent to the components on the fiber optic cables. Control signals are also sent optically to the various elements. The Bose system on board through 2004 used fiber optics too. They are called D2B, and are not compatable with MOST.

There are two tweeters in triangle grills on the front doors. There is a speaker in each door that has two voice coils for mid-range and bass sound. There are dual coils on the subwoofer as well. That makes a total of 12 speakers, but they are contained in 7 packages.

Cars with tele-aid have a separate speaker behind the right kick panel. It only works with tele-aid.

The main amp has a microphone input that adjusts the sound volume when ambient noise changes. The mic is located toward the front above the headliner on the passenger side.

The 320 watt claim is as optimistic as the EPA mileage figures. The amp is probably closer to 36 watts RMS.

Unlike the Bose speakers that used odd impedance voice coils the HK units can be changed to after market speakers. There is little out there that is better, but sound is a subjective science so you might find a speaker that sounds better to you. Changing the speakers will most likely change the engineered response built into the factory system, so you might not like the result.

If you need a bit more thump for the rump a HK BasslinkII in the trunk is an excellent choice. It can be adjusted, and will take its input from the rear door speakers. It is not a good idea to take the input from the sub wires because that sound might miss the response of the BasslinkII 10 in sub.

You can through the head unit adjust the amp. It will remember settings for CD, Radio, and Aux input independently of each other. You can also set it to "surround" mode to take advantage of the 7.1 feature. There is no actual center channel, but it is created by software in the DSP (digital signal processor.)

Changing the head unit will not "clean" anything. The tuner is top of the line, and the quality from the CD player is a function of the CD's. You can adjust the bass and trebel controls for each sound source to find what sounds best to your ear.

You would lose the amp if you changed the head unit. You would need an additional amp to just equal what you have now.
Well said!! i have been looking for info on the H/K since i got my car. I've googled, like crazy. I even contacted the dealer to give me some more complete specs, and they didnt come throgh.

this are my thoughts on the H/K system, having lived with it for over a year now: the mids/highs are pretty good. listen to jazz, or classical and it sounds pretty good. bass sucks, that little woofer dont do much. plus the rear hatch rattles like CRAZY, dealer wont fix it under warrantyt, they said they did, but its the same. the 'surround' sound, does have its merrits, u get deeper bass when u activated it. like it isolates the woofer. u can even feel it in the back of ur seat just a bit. but the mids/highs become muddled when u turn the surround on. i wish the head unit had eq or better settings like woofer control etc. but i guess too much to ask for stock even if it is premium. I have the AUX input set up in my car, and it sounds pretty good. not yuky but not great.

ok about the basslink. i read elsewere on this forum to take the leads out of the woofer not the rear door speakers. wouldnt it make more sense to come out of the stock woofer leads and take that little woofer out of the equoation altogether? plus isnt the signal comming to the woofer of a lower impadence like the basslink II would like better? and how would you control the basslink II form the headunit? do u mean the Bass control? i would rather have an independant woofer control.

thanks for the info!
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Old May 2, 2007 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by drho2004
ok about the basslink. i read elsewere on this forum to take the leads out of the woofer not the rear door speakers. wouldnt it make more sense to come out of the stock woofer leads and take that little woofer out of the equoation altogether? plus isnt the signal comming to the woofer of a lower impadence like the basslink II would like better? and how would you control the basslink II form the headunit? do u mean the Bass control? i would rather have an independant woofer control.

thanks for the info!
The wires for the rear speakers are in the trunk already. The amp is on the right rear wheel arch. The stock sub amp takes the audio from the MOST ring and then cuts off the high frequencies. Only low frequency audio is sent to the speaker. The BasslinkII is capable of a wider range of low frequencies than the stock wimpy-woofer. Connecting to a door speaker sends all the audio to the BasslinkII, and allows it to taylor the response for it's speaker. There is no need to remove the stock subwoofer, just be sure if you add an additional sub that it is "phased" the same as the existing one. The BasslinkII is a HK product, and comes properly phased. The control on the BasslinkII is on the unit, but it is a "set it, and forget it" control. Once the sound field is tuned, you should not need to adjust it. It could be made remote, with a pot hidden in the center console, if you really needed to adjust while under way. Some sellers are including a free 4 channel main amp that plugs into a slot on the BasslinkII. I would not use it to replace the MOST driven amp in the car, but it could be used to drive a "boom box" on a cable when picnic-ing.

C class is notorious for having a rattle in the package shelf when peeps operate the sub at higher volume, with music created with real bass. The answer is sound deadening. You need both a butyl mat and Ensolite to make the rattle stop. A special spray adhesive is used to apply it. Stuff works great. Makes the car even quieter if used in the doors and trunk.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
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Old May 2, 2007 | 02:33 PM
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Here is a question... Is the stock amp in the head unit still useable? If I wanted to add another set of speakers (wherever they fit) for some more volume, can I just use the amp in the head unit to power those instead of buying another amp?

Just a question...
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Old May 2, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Moviela
The wires for the rear speakers are in the trunk already. The amp is on the right rear wheel arch. The stock sub amp takes the audio from the MOST ring and then cuts off the high frequencies. Only low frequency audio is sent to the speaker. The BasslinkII is capable of a wider range of low frequencies than the stock wimpy-woofer. Connecting to a door speaker sends all the audio to the BasslinkII, and allows it to taylor the response for it's speaker. There is no need to remove the stock subwoofer, just be sure if you add an additional sub that it is "phased" the same as the existing one. The BasslinkII is a HK product, and comes properly phased. The control on the BasslinkII is on the unit, but it is a "set it, and forget it" control. Once the sound field is tuned, you should not need to adjust it. It could be made remote, with a pot hidden in the center console, if you really needed to adjust while under way. Some sellers are including a free 4 channel main amp that plugs into a slot on the BasslinkII. I would not use it to replace the MOST driven amp in the car, but it could be used to drive a "boom box" on a cable when picnic-ing.

C class is notorious for having a rattle in the package shelf when peeps operate the sub at higher volume, with music created with real bass. The answer is sound deadening. You need both a butyl mat and Ensolite to make the rattle stop. A special spray adhesive is used to apply it. Stuff works great. Makes the car even quieter if used in the doors and trunk.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
aaah i see. this is becoming more and more interesting. ok another question please, when you say take the sound off a rear speaker, you mean splice from one of the rear speakers and into the basslinkII? or 'y' off the amp? im trying to get a mental picture, so i can procede with more caution.i would rather disconnect the stock woofer, since i really dont wanna deal with the rattle. BTW i searched and the BasslinkII says its an Infinity product, unless im missing something here.

Last edited by drho2004; May 2, 2007 at 07:02 PM.
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Old May 2, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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You are not missing anything. Infinity is a Harmon Kardon (HK) brand. When you connect the BasslinkII you splice into the wires from the amp to the speakers. The wires still exit the amp on the wheel arch and run to the loud speakers in the rear doors. New wires are spliced in. I like Scotchlok connectors, clean, solderless, and foolproof. I used the rear left and right. Four wires from the amp conected to the new sub amp. Two signal, and two ground.

The package shelf is rattling because of sympathetic vibration, and will still rattle with the new sub, so sound deadening is necessary. You might complain to Mercedes about the rattle before you do anything, and encourage them to fix it.

There is an amp in the head unit for cars without HK premium sound. That amp is silenced when the head unit is version coded for premium sound. The volume, bass, treble, balance, and fader controls are remapped to operate the remote amp. If you would like to add speakers, get a quality class D amplifier.
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Old May 2, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Moviela
You are not missing anything. Infinity is a Harmon Kardon (HK) brand. When you connect the BasslinkII you splice into the wires from the amp to the speakers. The wires still exit the amp on the wheel arch and run to the loud speakers in the rear doors. New wires are spliced in. I like Scotchlok connectors, clean, solderless, and foolproof. I used the rear left and right. Four wires from the amp conected to the new sub amp. Two signal, and two ground.

The package shelf is rattling because of sympathetic vibration, and will still rattle with the new sub, so sound deadening is necessary. You might complain to Mercedes about the rattle before you do anything, and encourage them to fix it.

There is an amp in the head unit for cars without HK premium sound. That amp is silenced when the head unit is version coded for premium sound. The volume, bass, treble, balance, and fader controls are remapped to operate the remote amp. If you would like to add speakers, get a quality class D amplifier.
thanks a lot for the info! hmm will this also apply for the bazzokas? they are much cheaper than the Basslink II. but ive read good things about the basslink II. thanks alot!
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Old May 2, 2007 | 11:44 PM
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wait, I thought the H/K had a center speaker...

what's that giant triangle on the dash?
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Old May 3, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nlpamg
wait, I thought the H/K had a center speaker...

what's that giant triangle on the dash?
optional george foreman grille??
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 03:03 PM
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Does anybody know what wires coming off the amp go to what speakers? A quick response would be much obliged!
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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Great thread...hope it answers all the questions out there. Here's one more that may answer a few q's.....

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225056
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jay_mark_paul
Great thread...hope it answers all the questions out there. Here's one more that may answer a few q's.....

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=225056

Thanks for that! For some reason my search feature doesn't work right... and doesn't work at all if I search for a phrase with the word "rear" in it... It just goes to a blank screen! Really Weird!
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:13 AM
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Great Info. Just a quick question though. I notice that the BasslinkII needs a power source and ground. Can you tap into the power cable going to the stock amp? What gauge is that cable, and does that cable provide enough amperage for both units? Or do you have to run your own cable from the battery, under the hood, and all under your carpet, and to the trunk?
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 12:36 PM
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2005 c230 kompressor
Regarding replacing the radio deck in C230 Kompressor

Hi i was wondering if replacing my head unit of the radio deck with the new after market doubling din's make me lose the amp that i have in the car or lose the quality.
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